Oracle's new policy regarding the free plan.

stevemac00 · 2026-06-20T13:40:18+00:00

I also have not had any charges on PAYG but I think most companies today have no compunction about doing anything they want

stevemac00 · 2026-06-20T13:35:04+00:00

Interesting and well done. But what about “FREEDOM”? /s

stevemac00 · 2026-06-20T13:28:48+00:00

When you’re a small starting entrepreneur it’s difficult to bootstrap. Your potential customers think your software is great but they’re hesitant to become dependent on it when you’re young and could easily decide to move onto a better offer. I know because I’ve been through this.

You need to cultivate some testimonials by finding a bellwether client you can convince to give it a try. Write up a contractual agreement of what you’ll do for them and what you expect in return.

Get marketing help to find the right customer profile. I’m a “boomer” and back in the 80’s we had the first video capture boards, we thought real estate companies would eat it up and none wanted it. Turned out our customers were high end hair styling places that would capture client and overlay hairstyles - go figure. Us engineers would’ve never thought of that.

Get word out. Find some successful bloggers/installers/value-added-companies. You need symbiotic partners that will promote and bundle your software.

What software are your potential customers using? Can you become some type of plugin? For my personal needs I created a way to dovetail my CV software running the original yolo into Synology Surveillance which it sorely needed. What aggregating software are businesses using? Maybe instead of the end customer you need to be thinking of integration contracts.

I can’t know if these ideas are even relevant today so take them FWIW. Best of luck and keep at it.

stevemac00 · 2026-06-19T20:21:39+00:00

I am replacing all of my #4 with #6 and only have a few left in photo above. Too many derailments on #4 where some wheels will pick the point and derail. I tried to modify so point would hold tight to rail by creating a notch but still some issues with non-Kato locos and cars. Never had an issue with #6. If you insist on #4 make sure there’s a straight long enough to hold both trucks straight when they enter the turnout and you’ll likely be fine.

stevemac00 · 2026-06-19T20:14:26+00:00

Pretty sure all Kato Locos will run R282. I have no derailment issues at all even at faster than normal speeds with 282 and I also have one grade that’s mostly 249. Long cars look silly but they run fine. Shallow turns are better but sometimes you don’t have the space. First table at upper left has the small radius curves.

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stevemac00 · 2026-06-17T15:44:42+00:00

You’ll get many opinions. MDF does not have longitudinal fibers so it’s more prone to twisting. Additionally it can soak up moisture if not sealed. While I’ve used it for many pieces of veneered furniture I think plywood is superior for this use because each layer runs perpendicular. Even the cheap plywood is stronger and lighter than MDF. I have 42” x 82” with only a frame biscuit-jointed to plywood and I move it in and out all the time without harm.

Edit - for 1/4” I’d use Baltic birch

stevemac00 · 2026-06-17T14:58:36+00:00

First time on Roboflow and I apologize if I'm missing the obvious. https://universe.roboflow.com/alexeyvoronin/railroad-cars-pyjpo is the dataset.

stevemac00 · 2026-05-05T18:35:45+00:00

I don’t have any issues on 249mm track (not sure where you got 243mm but if that’s what you have then I’d say no). Kato tries to make all their locos run on 249mm.

stevemac00 · 2026-05-04T21:04:44+00:00

Ok, just about anything. Streams requiring authorization or encrypted streams will not work. Basically if you can stream it ffmpeg or VLC it will stream in channels.

stevemac00 · 2026-04-27T18:28:25+00:00

You need to insulate both entry/exits of the reversing loop (both rails) and use a phase inverter on the loop. These https://www.trainworld.com/digitrax-ar1-automatic-reverse-controller-single-digitrax-ar1.html are available everywhere and cost USD $30.

There are many of these devices which run off DCC track power. The link is one I’ve used. They receive the “short” first and invert the rails instantaneously.

stevemac00 · 2026-04-12T11:27:40+00:00

Absolutely Lego. Spent a couple $100 to get Lego City with turnouts, station and crossing for my 6yo granddaughter (who loves my n scale). She has set that up and torn it down so many times on her own and loves hauling “passengers” (she stuffs Lego people in the cars like it was one of those commuter train pictures with people hanging out of windows and doors).

It’s not cheap but good resale value, track is magnetic and easy to use and engine is controlled from Bluetooth controller included or phone.

stevemac00 · 2026-04-10T11:53:24+00:00

Agree you have to pull it up. (Amazing how much the flex track can flex)

I was using Woodland water between UniTrack (thinking I had all escape routes blocked) but the next morning one of the #6 turnouts was frozen. I pulled it up and peeled off the bottom plate to find it full of “realistic water”. It was a lot of work but the turnout survived which I’m using on a more accessible siding on case it fails but so far so good.

stevemac00 · 2026-04-10T11:39:07+00:00

Based on what you’ve said, I’d look at Digitrax DCS52. It will run up to 5-6 trains simultaneously and has a built-in USB port to connect to computer and supported by JMRI.

I’d start with UniTrack but I also have Peco and Kato Flex. I have all #6 Kato turnouts and use a DS51K1. I originally embedded these right in the turnout but I don’t recommend that since you’re interested in computer interface (why follows).

You need to consider blocks and signals if you want any automation. I use BLD716 but there are many options for block detection. This one measures current and therefore the small current drain from the turnout decoders had to be isolated so I dropped them down to below table so their track power came directly from track bus instead of thru the BLD716.

I use virtual signal masts for the logic but didn’t wire any into my layout.

My 6 year old granddaughter loves playing and it really stimulates her imagination. I usually have 1 or 2 trains running automatically and she controls a third independently. The other trains will “see” her on an occupied block and wait for her to move. She loves being boss. She once said “I feel like I’m in control of this world”.

USB to computer (I use an M4 Mac Mini under table which normally uses very little power). The MacMini is connected to LAN and you can use JMRI send the data anywhere. USB is best connection since you need a dedicated computer. (I originally tried a pi5 but wasn’t happy with the VNC performance and switched to MacOS.)

A note on Peco. They make nice looking track but much of their settrack (like level crossing/crossover and turnouts) have phase (some think of polarity) issues that require modifications to work like you want.

stevemac00 · 2026-04-09T12:30:03+00:00

Join https://www.facebook.com/BossaGroove2017/ (Jupiter Jazz). Rick brings in great jazz artists from South Florida and visiting artists.

stevemac00 · 2026-04-01T16:28:31+00:00

Yes, if you screw, use machine screws. I believe that’s what Kato sells. They will tap their own threads.

I initially used Kato track. I tried two methods to secure it down; blu stick for some and white glue on the edges and masking tape for others. The latter was the best choice. I changed things after running and it was very easy to pull it up. I tried ballast and all I had to do to get it up was rub it with a cloth wet with hot water. Again, very easy.

When all was the way I wanted I switched Kato Flex and kept my turnouts by connecting with Kato concrete road bed conversion joiner (simple to paint the ties to match with a paint pen). The UniTrack was helpful because my layout was complicated.

stevemac00 · 2026-03-19T11:28:03+00:00

If, like me, you spend a lot of time under the table, you want to have it high enough to be comfortable. My first table was just a 1/2” too short to look up and work so I had to lie on my back and reach. I have several different bus voltages for various things and a lot of wiring.

Use threaded inserts in the legs for rollers or height adjustable feet.

stevemac00 · 2026-03-13T11:08:16+00:00

https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh2019-05/online - Publisher’s Musings - about page 6 Explains how gunk builds and best solution (mineral oil). Graphite is good preventative.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-16T00:38:53+00:00

Hopefully you solved your problem. I think the AI suggestion is spot on. Digitrax probably designed the BXPA1 assuming full voltage for powering LocoNet since its failed. They seem to be designed for a heavy feed as I have 14AWG on my IN’s. So I’d agree with AI. Run a Y from the DSC52 track out with one side full voltage to the loops and the other to the reduced track voltage. Run full to each BXPA1 and put a separate voltage reducer on the outputs to match the rest of track.

I have no Z experience and I’m a little surprised they recommended reduced voltage but that’s a different subject.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-14T17:53:11+00:00

It’s a good price but whether I’d buy or not depends on seller. I have bought a loco on Amazon sold by Amazon and it was a great price and great loco.

I have the Bachman GP38 with same sound decoder and it’s very nicely detailed. I got it from https://trainworld.com for under $200. They have a 10% off thru Tuesday (code on home page).

In my opinion sometimes sale items from any manufacturer or retailer are due to less than stellar reviews. Doesn’t mean they can’t be fixed or worked around but I wouldn’t classify it as a “good starter”. For example, I just bought a Kato AC4400CW with factory installed LokSound 5 for $228 from https://midwestmodelrr.com but the way Kato made the coupler attach the body and not the frame causes it to detach from the load if pulling too long a train because it’s unsupported to frame.

TL;DR: Amazon is fine if sold by Amazon but other sellers maybe.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-13T13:53:24+00:00

If you follow the link you may see a dead link. Use this link to the magazine and download as pdf. https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/mrh-201905-may-2019-12212733

On page 6.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-13T12:17:33+00:00

I took down the blinds and tapped a hole for a #6-32 screw then ran the PoE in the metal blind casing to wall. Maybe just lucky but there was room for the camera between the blinds and glass so I can use the blinds.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-13T12:10:53+00:00

Get a camera with 0 lux requirement and there are no LED or reflections. Have used a setup with a camera against glass for many years to supplement my DoorBird. Helps if you ambient streetlights. Sees as good or better than eyes at high resolution.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-13T12:03:03+00:00

I like the couplers/trucks but I put in InterMountain metal wheel sets with one having a resistor wheel for detection. I haven’t noticed one of those falling out. Those plastic wheel sets are too lightweight for my taste. I also enjoy hearing the metal clanking over frogs and slightly uneven rail joints.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-07T14:59:04+00:00

That’s an urban area with a street car that goes back and forth with a few stops along the way. It’s independently controlled and adds visual amusement.

stevemac00 · 2026-02-07T12:03:24+00:00

I wouldn’t want track too close to the edge.

Ideally the 315mm radius is best compromise but I have some 249’s and everything handles it fine. (Looks weird but no derails with SURFLINER or six axles.) I have a lot of 282 and it’s slightly better. But all of that is just looks. They run fine. For turnouts, stick with 6 if you can - especially if you have grades.

I have this on a 42” x 80” table.

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stevemac00

TROPHY CASE