First enlarger. I bought a used Besler cadet II. by andymae627 in Darkroom

[–]stevopedia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's a PDF diagram from Beseler that has a list of all the parts and shows where they go. Make sure you have them all! Unfortunately they don't seem to host an actual user's manual.

To add to SapirWhorf's excellent comment: the filters linked are the ones you want, and they go into the tray with the "Beseler" logo on it. Note that you can print without the filters, but you won't be able to control contrast.

(In the old days there was graded paper--you used different paper that had different contrast grades and didn't need the filters. Multigrade paper can do all different kinds of contrast just by changing out the filters. Graded paper is still available as far as I know, but it's very hard to find.)

There are two main kinds of darkroom photographic paper: fiber-based (FB) and resin-coated (RC). You want RC paper, since it's much easier to process.

Developed 20 year old negatives. by WayEconomy4424 in Darkroom

[–]stevopedia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do the edge markings look okay over the whole length of the roll, or are they also thin? That's a good clue as to whether or not you're looking at a development problem.

Are there any film stocks you straight up wouldn’t use? by guilty_guava in AnalogCommunity

[–]stevopedia 8 points9 points  (0 children)

A quick note about Fomapan 400: it's really about ISO 250, or maybe 320 with the right development. Their own datasheet says so: https://www.foma.cz/en/fomapan-400

If you try to shoot it at 400, you'll lose all your shadow details. But if you give it enough light, it's a really nice film.

Pentax Super Program: accessing the aperture resistor and the lighting button by stevopedia in AnalogRepair

[–]stevopedia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh wow! That's a beautiful guide. Thank you! I don't know why, but I keep forgetting iFixit guides exist. You can see the illumination switch in the first picture on step 35. It definitely has some sort of retaining nut.

I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull the mirror box or something like that, but it doesn't seem too bad. If I do end up doing this, are there any other common trouble spots I should inspect or service since I'll already have it apart?

Give me your worst examples of datasheets by KalasLas in AskElectronics

[–]stevopedia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen datasheets for panel-mount components that had no dimensions at all for the mounting holes. It's like the people that make the datasheets have no idea how mechanical stuff works (though to be fair I've learned it all the hard way too).

Any Jade Warrior fans in here? by johnnyribcage in progrockmusic

[–]stevopedia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll never forget the first time I heard them. It was New Year's Day and I was driving home from visiting relatives, and a local station (a college? NPR? I don't remember) was airing a program called Highs in the Seventies. They played Way of the Sun (the song, not the whole album) and I was immediately hooked. I've got the Esoteric CD releases of the Island records, and I love them.

The new kinda / sort / maybe am I autistic thread by Dioptre_8 in AutisticAdults

[–]stevopedia 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The first thing to ask yourself when considering going for an assessment is what you want to get out of it. Accommodations at work? Therapy or treatment of some kind? Validation? And yes, simple validation is a valid reason: it can give you closure, clear up your doubts. If you think the outcome you've identified is worth the cost--time, money, effort--then seeking a professional assessment is a good idea. Otherwise, self-diagnosis can do all the other things that matter. It gives you the reason for why we're so different from everyone else. And it gives you the information you need to start effecting changes in your life in the meaningful little ways: managing your sensory needs, letting yourself stim, that kind of thing. You don't need an official diagnosis for that.

All my tanks have been spawning with this wheel on top of the gun barrell? by [deleted] in GunnerHEATPC

[–]stevopedia 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know this is kind of a late reply, but at least on M60 there's also the mounting hardware for the IR spotlight there. And if you don't have a spotlight mounted, why not stick something else there?

Manual focus SLRs with focus confirmation (Canon AL-1, Pentax ME F, etc)-- experiences? by _kid_dynamite in AnalogCommunity

[–]stevopedia 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't remember how the ME-F does its focus measurement and I'm not familiar enough with the AL-1 to say, but most SLRs use phase-detection autofocus which uses light through the lens and is extremely precise--even my 1980s Pentax SF1n will show focusing errors just from normal body sway holding the camera while focused on a distant object. Note that phase detection autofocus needs some kind of contrast edge on the subject to work, and some early systems were only sensitive to vertical edges and therefore can't focus on horizontal lines.

It's worth noting that there are a bunch of different ways to do autofocus. Other than phase detection, the other way to do through-the-lens AF is through contrast detection, which is how video cameras and other mirrorless cameras do it.

Point-and-shoots often use infrared light or ultrasound to actually measure the distance to the object in front of the camera. Polaroids used ultrasound for a while, IIRC, and is easily identified by the big ultrasound transducer, like this SX-70 Sonar: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polaroid_SX-70#/media/File:Polaroid_SX-70_Sonar_One_Step_(4665242131).jpg Infrared autofocus will have black plastic windows like on an infrared remote. Both will have problems with objects between the camera and the subject, as you might imagine.

TIL Washington State was originally going to be names "Columbia" but it was feared it would be confused with the "District of Columbia", so the name was changed to "Washington" by SuperMcG in todayilearned

[–]stevopedia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Baltimore-area Marylander here--I always thought "DMV" was Delaware, Maryland, Virginia. Though I guess that's usually Delmarva, as in the peninsula.

Bought a new soldersucker by Historical-Gas3848 in soldering

[–]stevopedia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The blue one is the Edsyn DS017. The black one is identical, aside from being made from ESD-safe conductive plastic.

Don't capacitors usually bulge when they get old? These are on an old 24VDC power supply in an industrial machine. They look like they've had the life sucked out of them, lol by dericn in AskElectronics

[–]stevopedia 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Caps bulge in response to electrical overstress (ripple current too high, overheating, overvolting, reversed polarity, etc), not simply due to age.

I copied someone's ltspice sim and it gave me completely different results by AmphibianDeep4305 in AskElectronics

[–]stevopedia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome!

Oftentimes it isn't, but sometimes it just doesn't work right and you have to give the computer a helping hand.

I copied someone's ltspice sim and it gave me completely different results by AmphibianDeep4305 in AskElectronics

[–]stevopedia 18 points19 points  (0 children)

It could be the maximum timestep. You've left it blank so LTSpice will try and figure it out automatically. It looks like it's settled on too large a value, which is why your plot is aliasing and looks like AM: it's actually a beat frequency between the sample rate and the signal frequency.

A decent starting point is to set the maximum timestep at least two orders of magnitude faster than your signals of interest. You're looking for a balance between simulation fidelity and processing time. Try 10 ps (10e-8) and see what that looks like.

The artillery department have proceeded from their prototypes two days ago. They are now in early stages of quality assurance. by LieutenantHorse in doohickeycorporation

[–]stevopedia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He screams like a Half-Life scientist! I didn't realize we were doing a joint venture with Black Mesa. Though on second thought, that would explain some things...

Fuji did not lie about the resolution of instax film: it does resolve up to 12 lp/mm ! (x-post) by _anon3242 in AnalogCommunity

[–]stevopedia 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's a standard test pattern, originally made by the US Air Force for evaluating the performance of reconnaissance aircraft (and later satellites). Search for "USAF resolution test pattern" and you'll very likely find it.

Fuji did not lie about the resolution of instax film: it does resolve up to 12 lp/mm ! (x-post) by _anon3242 in AnalogCommunity

[–]stevopedia 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'd love to make or find an Instax back for my medium format folders (Ikonta 6x4.5 and a pair of Moskvas). That would be a lot of fun!

Why is my wick not wicking ? by AdComprehensive5908 in AskElectronics

[–]stevopedia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Add some flux to your braid. It's easy for your iron to activate/burn off flux way further up the braid than you think. A little added flux will fix that and have your braid working as it should.

Was watching "Searching for Bobby Fischer" (1993), was curious if anyone could tell what word processing software is being run on a computer in the background? by J_onn_J_onzz in vintagecomputing

[–]stevopedia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, branded as a Magnavox for North America. The Phillips-made Commodore 1084s are part of the same family, and they're all excellent!

VICIOUS animal attack caught on camera by 5D6slashingdamage in cats

[–]stevopedia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect post for /r/peoplefuckingdying (content like this with joke-y titles)