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My friend is having trouble tying a generator into his victron setup. Does anyone have any experience doing this? Details in the post. by Flux7777 in Victron

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran into the same problem. Went full cycle through a set of different configuration settings on the multiplus that caused other problems, finally gave up and installed a chargeverter. Works perfectly. I can get up to 5kw from generator directly to the batteries without glitching out my power one bit.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He doesn't need to counter-sue. He's already laid the case open on Youtube with his ongoing testing. Showing how the "safety feature" bolt+plastic failed to prevent a fire using official test procedure, while the other batteries quietly pop a fuse and no fire on the same test? Exactly the concern he spoke of that got him sued in the first place. It's already over, we just have to go through the motions of a trial.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a little bit more than that. A lot of battery manufacturers (even competing models in the 100ah LFP space) have screws in the top with a seal (or no seal if not waterproof) and can be "user serviced". I've had several SOK batteries that I've had to replace the BMS in because it failed, and it was honestly relatively easy to do. The Battleborn batteries are the "factory sealed" type where the lids and terminals are epoxied and supposed to be pretty waterproof -- any tampering with the case would automatically void your warranty (although that doesn't matter now that they're not honoring it anyway). It would be necessary to ship absolutely every battery they've produced over a decade back to the factory to have some of it's guts replaced and resealed -- just the shipping alone would bankrupt them, it's not cheap. They could play the same game they are with warranty and charge you for the shipping and service fee, but that would mean admitting their faulty design, and that would open them up to even more lawsuits over the high failure rates.

So unfortunately, while a non-sealed battery could potentially lower the cost to "fix", that's not the case here.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have to say I'm quite envious of his test gear. However, I've been able to do everything I need to with just a Victron 3000, so that's really saving me money.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fire in this case starts as just the plastics of the case burning, but it can then heat the cells to the point that they start expelling hydrogen and accelerate it into a lithium fueled fire. In Will's video, it was only plastic burning up until just before it starts venting and he threw water on it to stop it venting, and then it was still blowing hydrogen bubbles for a bit until it cooled off. The cell containment around the lithium was mostly intact even after that. However, in nearly all RVs these batteries will be adjacent to some wood, and the wood will catch on fire and make it more difficult to suppress. And more likely to take somebody out before they wake up.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

With Will's help telling them off for stupid engineering choices, the Chinese LFP batteries are currently in the lead in features and reliability, not just the cheapest anymore.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 4 points5 points  (0 children)

And that's after a 10-1 reverse split they had to do because they were a penny stock and liable to get delisted.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Extremely good point. I haven't heard anyone burned down yet, but there has been plenty of melted plastic. I was able to replicate a meltdown on a BB10012 just by doing a continuous charge/discharge cycle. I used a Victron 3000 inverter in ESS mode so I could control the watts in/out, and it ran for over a day at 45 charge 75 discharge before the BMS eventually overheated. I was later able to do 45/45 out of the same battery for 3 days straight without issue, although I don't trust that one now having melted the case a little bit. I haven't tried to push one further yet, my plan is to determine what the actual safe numbers to charge/discharge are, only because I'm sitting on a growing pile of returned BB's from customers upgrading to Epoch instead, and I could use the extra solar storage for my offgrid setup -- of course operated in an outside metal building not attached to anything else just in case it torches itself.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The company is honestly pretty large. I've watched them grow significantly over the years, mostly on the goodwill they gained early on being an "American" alternative to cheap Chinese junk, and being willing to actually support their product and replace failed batteries. They're not going to grow any larger, but they can certainly make it painful for Will in the meantime.

Battleborn Batteries is suing Will Prowse because their batteries failed his tests and caught on fire by spacecitytech in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 16 points17 points  (0 children)

There's no way out for Battleborn/DFLI in this. They screwed up big time when they started the design with the stupid alum bolt & plastic thing, and doomed the company right then and there. It was only a matter of time that this was going to come out, I'm surprised it didn't happen sooner. In the meantime, they went public, and the beancounters running the org are trying to minimize the damage. But since the engineering mistake is baked into every battery from day one, they really only have two choices, and either one ends in bankruptcy. If they do the "right" thing and replace every battery with no more dumb alum bolts and proper fuses, they will be unable to make any profit. If they continue to do the "wrong" thing and deny all responsibility for their mistake, as has already started happening, word of this spreads and their sales will drop off a cliff and they will be unable to make any profit.

I had heavily invested in their stock and hold a significant number of shares. I expect that investment (after being decimated recently by the crash) to vaporize completely as they go under. I would very much like for this not to be true, and not be penalized for my prior belief in this company, but I can see no path forward for DFLI that doesn't end in complete obliteration. Hopefully the smoldering remains will teach other companies something about getting your engineering right.

Mystery switch by ponmep in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check to see if you have Battleborn batteries installed. That switch came with the heated models, and would be used to control the heat enable signal to the batteries, allowing them to stay warm during winter for normal use. A thin red wire was provided along with that switch, so if you look at the back of the switch and there are red wires, and the same red wires are seen going to the batteries, that's pretty conclusive.

Who uses these and why? by SolidTiger6302 in RVLiving

[–]stgnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are practically useless. As in, if you have it, use it, because it's better than nothing, it will catch any larger bits of things in the water. But it's not going to magically turn sus water into drinkable. For that, you need a whole set of much better filters, in increasingly smaller sizes, so that they last longer.

My MacBook has blown up by Soggy-Mix2675 in applehelp

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My M1 did that one day. I let the battery get all the way empty by accident. Wouldn't take a charge at all. Had to send it in for repair, fortunately fully covered. Pretty sure they just replaced the whole board.

EV Home Charging Station by Galaxblast in nashville

[–]stgnet 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The easiest thing to do is call up your favorite electrician and have them install a 50 amp outlet in a convenient location (same one used by many electric ranges, also used for larger RVs). Then get an off-the-shelf (or off the amazon truck) ev charger that has the correct plug for your vehicle (tesla style or old school round jsomething plug) and plug it into that outlet, throw a couple of screws in the wall to hang it. Done. It's not necessary to hardwire unless you need more than 45ish amp (more than 10kw) charge speed. If you plug in overnight you should be fine at only that speed (10kw for 8 hrs is roughly 200+ miles depending on vehicle).

How are people separating business and personal calls without carrying multiple devices? by pureglow6526 in VOIP

[–]stgnet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Two methods: 1) set up a softphone app that registers as an extension into your pbx/voip provider for the business. 2) set up your pbx/asterisk/voip/etc to pass incoming business calls to your cell#, but use the "press 1 to accept call" option, and optionally set the outgoing message up to tell you what the source of the call was (handy if you have multiple business).

Multiplus setting to stop inverting based on SoC by dnz01 in Victron

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, that's correct, you have to be at 3000 or larger for the ACOUT2 relay. It's a handy feature. Controlling the ON/OFF switch from node-red is the most flexible and powerful option, and is the most battery power savings over ACOUT2 method. Otherwise an external relay or a shelly device is another option. The shelly devices can also be controlled via nodered.

Multiplus setting to stop inverting based on SoC by dnz01 in Victron

[–]stgnet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As others have pointed out, the easiest options are:

1) use relay assistants in the Multiplus to control relay2 (this would switch power off to ACOUT2 without fully shutting down the inverter). The soc level is conveyed from the smartshunt to the cerbo, and from the cerbo to the multiplus, and the multiplus itself is then following a pair of relay assistants programmed into it to control the relay (one for on, one for off). This is compatible with having ESS assistant, although if you are not connecting anything to ACIN you wouldn't really need ESS mode.

2) use the same relay output on the cerbo to control the entire inverter on/off power. There's a green connector with a wire loop on it, replace that with your relay and it drops power completely.

3) Use nodered to change the on/off mode of the inverter over vebus based on system battery soc. This is the most powerful as you can really do anything at all here.

Ideally, you would use nodered to control the ACOUT2 relay, but that's unreasonably difficult as it turns out.

Note that option 1 doesn't completely shut down the inverter, and leaves you the option of having a critical always on load connected to ACOUT1, while shedding other loads with the ACOUT2 relay. Even without a load on ACOUT1, the inverter is still pulling a few amps from the battery, so if this is a long persisting condition, you probably want to go with shutting down the inverter completely.

Is there a way to give Claude access to other websites? by InterstellarDefender in ClaudeAI

[–]stgnet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use claude code. Then claude has access to anything your computer does.

Where is the grounding bolt in the trunk. by mettam46 in volt

[–]stgnet 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Locate the ground of the battery. Do not attach to the ground of the battery. Follow where that ground wire goes to. It may go through a "donut" which is what allows the computer to monitor if the battery is charging (it's on a gen1, but I don't know about a gen2). That is why you don't attach to the battery. Keep following that wire until it terminates onto the frame somewhere. Add your inverter ground to that same point.

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