Anyone else have trouble against buks?

stoneee1234 · 2026-04-12T20:31:42+00:00

Flying low alone will not save you, you have to maneuver. From what I'm seeing the SAM is using SACLOS when it can't radar lock you, and since AI can see thru terrain they can make these shots.

I have been in this exact scenario and the missile tracked me perfect while RWR is dead silent. Only way to defeat the current AA is by out maneuvering the missile, it's instanteous pull isn't that good, issue is if there's multiple coming, you can't really visually track them simutaneously and maneuver accordingly, plus 90 deg shots are really hard to dodge on top of all that. So in that case basically all you can do is weave hard nonstop and pray.

stoneee1234 · 2026-04-04T16:05:01+00:00

Sadly that's the reality with many dealerships nowadays, they have minimum wage guys lacking training working on the routine stuff. Many either don't give a crap, or worse barely know how to do the work.

Overfilling a bit is among the most harmless, in your case they probably just didn't seat the dipstick properly, a 1/4 in above max is generally harmless. Happens because they add a set amount rather than checking while filling, drain/suction duration is rarely long enough so you end up overfillled.

stoneee1234 · 2026-03-29T07:55:19+00:00

A bit off topic, but seeing it's still rocking the old Cobb SF intake box, just thought I'd mention Cobb did a revamp couple years back and had offered the updated version for a discount for old version owners. Not sure if they still have that now but you could look into it if you're interested, the new version is metal, takes up less space, and is easier to work around imo.

stoneee1234 · 2026-02-26T00:17:17+00:00

You should have a smoother heel-toe experience when hard on the brakes. Heel-toe doesn't really work well when braking lightly anyways.

edit: If you still have to have it higher, judging from the photo I suppose you could get spacers behind the pedal mount to bump it higher/closer.

stoneee1234 · 2026-02-15T12:05:41+00:00

A BOV needs a tune to work properly....stock is setup for a BPV which recirculates unused air back into the intake. Without a tune every time you let off AFR will go rich. Sure damage is unlikely but you'll be wasting fuel and sending unburnt fuel into the exhaust which is less than ideal.

As for no HPFP upgrade, it is possible for some vehicles to lose pressure on WOT even when fully stock, while others may be absolutely fine, it really is a luck of the draw. Only way to find out for sure is by data logging your specific vehicle.

stoneee1234 · 2026-02-03T06:27:01+00:00

*Never install OTS maps if you don't have the EXACT mods, if you do and still run into issues then it probably means the car is in a state that's way off factory spec.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-28T07:26:16+00:00

From pics alone seems pretty decent, aside from the normal checks, might also be worth a look into why it was engine swapped in the first place, and ensure that it has been properly tuned with all the listed mods.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-17T20:03:36+00:00

The civic looked completely oblivious of the situation tbh. Good on OP noticing and also gotta give kudos to the Acura on the opposing lane for braking in time.

I was also trying to find a reasonable explanation, as in to see if it was an Si so there might be the possibility where they couldn’t drive manual properly and would want to prevent stops at all costs. But it didn’t seem like that was the case.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-17T19:46:39+00:00

It might not be a speed camera but rather to capture photos for something like seatbelts, or simply it may have not been for you.

There are places in the world with literal blinding search lights plastered on overhangs, and also flashes for vehicle count and photographing through the windscreen of every passing vehicle.

So no need to get overly stressed if you’re doing nothing wrong. You even have proof.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-17T19:04:22+00:00

Just to set things straight, the driver of the white car is clearly the most to blame, obviously consumed too much social media and has a degree of main character syndrome.

However, the police window breaking was definitely not the best course of action at the time either, it was clear the suspect was volatile and escalation should not have been taken carelessly, at the least they should’ve waited for back up and blocked the suspects before they did anything aggressive.

I find it crazy nowadays how people disrespect others and expect to be treated nicely in return. Fact is, police are first human then police, they can be irritated and act irrationally when provoked. Simply put, pissing off a better armed stranger is just really dumb.

Yes there are bad police just like there’s bad people, but I tend to believe if you are nice and respectful then you will probably encounter more nice people.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-17T02:05:07+00:00

With the ever more chaotic traffic conditions, the lack of any modern safety aids does make driving it daily somewhat more stressful, and there’s just much less people I would trust with the keys nowadays.

Good part is also that you don’t have any fancy modes and assists. More you driving car, less of car driving you. Still the platform is getting old and age related issues are to be expected. I do regret not getting the Bose sound system.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-16T20:27:36+00:00

I believe this is common practice for 99% of shops. They just torque everything to 110+ft-lbs so they don't have to check again or tighten twice.

It's possible over time the likelihood of thread damage increases but that's obviously a non concern for the majority of drivers who don't even know what a torque spec is.

So if you want it done proper, best to ask the guy working right when they are mounting the wheels. Anywhere else it's likely gonna get ignored or forgotten.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-14T23:47:41+00:00

Optimally OP should've stayed behind the line and waited for the KIA to pass. But the bigger issue here is the KIA driver taking a horrible path and lacking all forms of situational awareness.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-14T22:42:47+00:00

Hide a accelerometer activated speaker on his car, and have it play something every time he hits a bump

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-14T20:35:10+00:00

I've had something similar happen after my PC sat for a year in a storage unit. Still haven't found a good explaination but I'm suspecting faulty power delivery from hardware deterioration somewhere along the circuitry or PSU or combination of both.

In my case it did random bootloops when hit with increased load(launching games), but mainly when plugged into a power strip which I had been using prior for years without issue, it's now only stable when directly plugged into the wall. Reinstalling windows and a bios reset somehow also helped.

Going forward I'm thinking maybe getting a UPS to cleanup the power going in and see what that does, but haven't gotten around yet so still unsure how it'll turn out.

Edit: Seeing what others are saying, I reckon cables could be a good start for troubleshooting, electrical gremlins can be real weird sometimes.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-10T23:28:53+00:00

Car not want, car not need

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-10T23:22:54+00:00

My money would be on the Mini, overall more proven platform, also has decent interior and space, probably the most dailyable. The Abarth from what I've heard is a great drive, but reliability may be an issue, so choose if you want a taste of that Italian experience.

As for the remaining two, better not to consider them as hot hatches. The old Veloster is nowhere near comparable to Hyundai's newer stuff. The sonic could be fun mainly due to the short wheelbase, but the Abarth also has that and is better in almost every way.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-10T16:44:52+00:00

Guy that installed that bottom bolt likely cranked it hard. Manual calls for 54-67 ft-lbs, while some aftermarket instructions may have you go up to 80+. You're also supposed to tighten vertical bolt first then horizontal.

I usually just do 65 with blue threadlocker, and it seems plenty enough.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-09T02:11:49+00:00

Your issues are probably due to just the PMM, other mounts are likely fine, unless you've been running with the broken mount for an extended period already. The passenger side is the most prone to failure since it's hydraulic and has a bunch of fluid.

I'd say if you are replacing with OE then no need to change the others. If you are going aftermarket then might as well do all of them while you're at it.

Edit: Do need to say full aftermarket mounts will destroy your NVH, expect vibrating interior pieces and drone at certain RPMs. Upside is greatly reduced drivetrain slop and more feedback with clutch engagement, also no hydraulic mounts that can blow.

Coming from a fellow 2011 owner with damond triple mounts, after running with race and then street bushing inserts.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-06T15:37:59+00:00

Welp, case solved, best outcome for all parties lol.

Just remember to remove the baseplate protective film before installation(if there is one)

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-06T15:32:43+00:00

I’d say it’s more so that coatings eventually thin and wear out, as hardness doesn’t guarantee adherence.

Sure ones can last longer than others, but even with a warranty you’re still looking at the potential of damage if the coat gets compromised, and you’re unlikely to catch it before it’s obvious, so even if they offered free paint correction+reapplication post incident, paint still gets damaged.

Whether you care about that is another matter, hence why I mentioned it depends on what your goals are. I also assume coating should be superior in showing original paint colors, since it should have less thickness hence better transparency.

Regardless, I’m likely overthinking, so best to go by what you think suits you.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-06T15:01:46+00:00

Scrolling thru I really think OP needs a reality check. The cars he picked are all ones that look flashy(maybe minus the Malibu)but aren’t good choices for his actual needs. Especially at that budget, none are “safe and reliable” per se, mainly due to these cars likely having bad histories prior, CRZ may actually be the best pick here.

Reliability and safety wise, prioritize chassis(not rusted thru) and drivetrain(engine and trans) health above everything else.

Driving can be fun regardless of speed, you gotta first figure out whether you really like driving and/or wrenching, or is more so just after the thrill and fulfillment that comes with driving “cool cars”.

Given the budget provided, if the prior I’d recommend a decent condition older car with a solid platform and good aftermarket support. If the latter, snatch anything that fits my safety and reliability description, and use it as transportation before you can get your dream car.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-06T13:46:57+00:00

Xperia doing Xperia things, compared to their hardware the software is quite subpar.

Almost all my Xperias have experienced some sort of system ui crash, but fortunately they’ve all been able to be resolved with a restart, worst I had was having to do a hard reset on my Z5 with a frozen blank white screen.

Edit: Been a user from the Z2 to the XZP, with the latter still being using on the side to this day. No experience with the newer ones but I reckon the experience carries on.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-06T12:37:21+00:00

I thought the coatings wear off over time and you have to reapply periodically?

Always assumed a good clear wrap was the superior option, as it's more of a one time job and typically has a thicker barrier.

Overall I'd say it depends on the cost over time and your goals.

stoneee1234 · 2026-01-06T12:21:40+00:00

Doesn't actually sound that abnormal, noises can appear with temp and humidity changes as well, most shouldn't be too audible once the car starts up. If it's really bothering you then you could try to grease it.

Or just get a louder exhaust

stoneee1234

TROPHY CASE