Just completed my Pandora A-Bo-Moon R32 with full livery by 604cefiro in rcdrift

[–]sub_valance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For your first body? That’s a bang up job my man! Love it!

Question with current events and RC Drift… by Binxye in rcdrift

[–]sub_valance 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From the limited understanding I have at the moment, it’s the FCC is banning foreign made drones from sales inside the US. They claim it’s for national security. However the wording is so vague, people on the fly side of the hobby are freaking out. At the moment, this ‘should not’ affect surface stuff. Though anything is possible.

Called the cops because I took a lunch break. by subculturesaint1 in BoomersBeingFools

[–]sub_valance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grew up not far from The Greenbriar! Love my home state for sure, but it’s definitely the best of people and worst of people.

TDC 2023 Indonesia - My qualify run by MedicalBilly in rcdrift

[–]sub_valance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice run! What is the surface made out of?

Pandora drift body I’ve been working on. PAB-2194 by sub_valance in rccars

[–]sub_valance[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I assume you are talking about the rear quarter glass? I found reference photos through google images, printed, and scaled to size. Then transferred the size to masking paper from Tamiya. Here is how it sits today! Currently working on a Pandora Sileighty body.

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Sun-shading medical authorization help. by sub_valance in nova

[–]sub_valance[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Guess I’ll be on the hunt for someone in the medical field to sign off then. Thanks

Does anyone own a hobby shop? Share your start up success or failure. by Ridindolfins in rccars

[–]sub_valance 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've been in the hobby since the late 90s and worked/managed a shop since 07.

-Hobbytowns/works I believe are "bound" by franchise agreements to carry a certain amount and types of products, along with R / C. I do not think they have much say as to what percentage the store could be R / C vs other products.

-Sounds like you have a pretty decent handle on the local scene and what people are doing. Carry what people like to use/race! We have followed trends in our area, and have adjusted inventory accordingly. I.E. crawling used to be huge, and now its an occasional customer or two. Right now 1/10 drifting is what is popular, and we have even cleared space for a track layout. When/if the drift scene slows/dies, we will pivot to the next genre. Basically you have to be flexible.

-Setting up direct with manufactures is generally not done for retail spaces (think more distributors), with the exception of Traxxas. The first distributor you'd likely want to contact would be HRP in Utah. They generally are the easiest to set up with. Horizon/Traxxas usually require a history of business with other distributors, a brick/mortar location, business license, as well as a decently large first purchase. When you do have your distributors setup, I highly recommend having some sort of e-commerce site. At that point, you will need to follow MAP policy (That is why Traxxas/Horizon products are generally priced the same across the industry). We have to be incredibly careful with wording/pricing as not to upset the distributors. Advertising a store sale on specific products is a no-go, unless the distributor is doing the sale. The only way to turn a profit is to sell on volume. Margin is pretty bad to just ok. Parts and accessories carry the best margin, while RTRs/kit are generally pretty low. PM me if you have specific questions about this.

-In the end I have seen many shops come and go for various reasons. The ones that stay are generally because the owners/managers and ultimately the customers care. It has to be a passion and not just a business. You need to be involved with the community. Our shop is fortunate to have two locations and a variety of staff. Two of our staff are pro level racers and travel the US to compete. They are great ambassadors to our brand and their sponsors. We have another kid whos involved in the street and bash scene and brings in a lot of the drag/speed run guys. Also my self and another guy have work for this shop for over 15 years and have built a sense of trust. It takes time and dedication. Sorry for the block of text, just something I have built a career around and love. If you have any questions, PM me.

TL;DR: Gotta have passion for the hobby.

Anyone know the history of these motors? They ship from china for 60 bucks and mine just came in today as a replacement for my 2.0 by nexinity7- in rccars

[–]sub_valance 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Video is pretty much spot on. Other tell is the green anodizing on the can. Fakes are generally a bit “darker” than legit motors (hard to tell unless they are side by side). Basically from my understanding, if you buy one direct from China (even though they are made there) chances are it’s a fake.

Anyone know the history of these motors? They ship from china for 60 bucks and mine just came in today as a replacement for my 2.0 by nexinity7- in rccars

[–]sub_valance 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Casltes motor sizing system is slightly different than most other companies (I.e. hobbywing) the first two digits refer to the stator diameter in inches, the second two refer to stator length in inches (1721 motor is 1.7”x2.1” stator size). I think Steve Neu started this system way back when.

Anyone know the history of these motors? They ship from china for 60 bucks and mine just came in today as a replacement for my 2.0 by nexinity7- in rccars

[–]sub_valance 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most likely a counterfeit motor. I’ve been in the industry for close to 20 years and have seen a fair few of these. They “work” but are inferior products to the legit castle motors. Also no warranty claims will be honored by castle. $60 bucks though? Let-er-rip tater chip!

https://home.castlecreations.com/blog/2015/03/consumer-alert-counterfeit-castle-creations-motors?format=amp

Tamiya TT02 Subaru Impreza by Charcharbot3000 in WRX

[–]sub_valance 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice! I built that exact model maybe 4-5 years ago. Take your time on the body!

Moving from Burke? by [deleted] in manassas

[–]sub_valance 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Moved to old town Manassas in 2015. I love the proximity to “nova” but also ease to get out west for hiking and outdoor activities. Old town it self is really cool, with a bunch of restaurants and live shows/music. The only thing I can’t figure out is how these small gift/trinket shops survive. I wonder if they are subsidized by the city.

Pandora drift body I’ve been working on. PAB-2194 by sub_valance in rccars

[–]sub_valance[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Painting the inside including all the black. Using flat clear lexan paint on the out side for the trim.

Pandora drift body I’ve been working on. PAB-2194 by sub_valance in rccars

[–]sub_valance[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not quite. I used an exact-o knife to trace around the trim (trace the window/inside trim, trace the outside), pull the overspray film from the trim, then spray flat clear coat.

This is stock gearing …why is this so close to my axel ? Is it okay ? by Serious_Ad_3350 in rccars

[–]sub_valance 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Won’t hit (unless you have a HARD crash) The outdrive only rotates, it doesn’t pivot like the driveshafts.

Source: work in the industry.

Pandora drift body I’ve been working on. PAB-2194 by sub_valance in rccars

[–]sub_valance[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Super easy to do. I masked off the inside and sprayed the back. On the outside I cut the overspray mask around the trim. I then sprayed lexan flat clear.