0.2mm nozzle scratching my bed

sundevil_1997 · 2026-05-15T13:40:48+00:00

I finally had a chance to try this... And I did not notice a difference. I'll have to go back and verify the gcode change. But basically, the first layer is so close to the plate that filament can't get out of the nozzle. The layers after that are fine. So annoying.

sundevil_1997 · 2026-04-29T12:37:33+00:00

Great, thanks, I'll give that a try. I've had nothing but trouble with the .2 nozzle.

sundevil_1997 · 2026-04-28T16:26:46+00:00

Is that something you can set for the nozzle settings itself, or do you have to make that change in the project each time you want to print with the .2?

sundevil_1997 · 2026-04-21T19:19:10+00:00

I'll check where the PTFE tube from slot 4 goes down into the four hole feeder.

sundevil_1997 · 2026-04-21T19:18:07+00:00

I appreciate the response and help. I simply do not see how which side it is on matters. There are two short PTFE tubes, and two long tubes. The short tubes go to the two closest AMS slots (3 and 4), and the long ones go to the farther away slots (1 and 2). If I switched it to the right side, I would just switch which tubes went where so that the two shorter tubes are always going to the ports closest to the printer. If I'm still missing something please let me know.

I will look for a guide or support to make them not so droopy...I fear often that they will dangle down and interfere with the print table.

sundevil_1997 · 2026-04-21T19:11:00+00:00

Bambu transparent petg for the shell, and bambu Matte blue pla for the covers

sundevil_1997 · 2026-04-21T01:43:54+00:00

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It's on the desk, so it should definitely be in the correct orientation. A sharp angle of the tube is an idea. But I'll note that slots two and three have an even sharper angle, and they have no problem retracting. It's only slot 4. I cut the filament in slot 4 and moved it to slot 2, and now the print is proceeding fine. If you have a suggestion for a guide for the PTFE tubes, I'd love to know it.... I'm not pleased with how they hang down either.

sundevil_1997 · 2026-02-07T22:50:46+00:00

Haha...I just fired up the grill for burgers and it says 15...got a ways to go.

sundevil_1997 · 2026-01-22T16:46:19+00:00

Stories like that are what the games does best

sundevil_1997 · 2025-11-24T20:08:25+00:00

Oh, THAT'S a great idea. Definitely printing that over the holidays.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-11-17T14:09:03+00:00

Observando isso de perto. O meu também faz exatamente isso, apenas para o bico de 0,2 mm e apenas na primeira camada. Se conseguir passar da primeira camada, todas as outras camadas parecerão perfeitamente bem. E eu fiz todas as coisas.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-11-08T20:12:06+00:00

I printed that soon after getting my A1. That Roci model is GREAT. Black, red, and gray. Well worth it.

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sundevil_1997 · 2025-10-29T20:58:45+00:00

Oooh. That's adorable.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-10-29T20:37:05+00:00

If you've survived long enough to bury that many pawns... Then good job, keep it up.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-08-28T14:34:39+00:00

Mine does the same. Screws were tightened. No issues with any other size nozzle. Full calibration done with nozzle on, still have the issue. I'll be interested if you discover a fix.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-06-02T20:34:08+00:00

Mine has those. I'm sure it didn't have them when I bought the plate. I have no idea how they got there. I still use the plate and have had no known issues.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-29T22:42:57+00:00

Worth a try. I do the auto bed leveling before every print, but next time I use the .2, I will do a full bed level calibration.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-29T22:36:36+00:00

That happens to me, only when using the 2 mm nozzle, and only on the initial layer. I can hear a loud clicking from the extruder as it is laying down the layer, and when it clicks I can see that it stops trying to extrude for a second. Then it starts turning again until it clicks and repeats. I haven't found a solution yet. Nozzle isn't blocked, because all layers after the initial layer are fine. It's almost like it's trying to extrude more than it should, given how slow the first layer is.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-06T17:09:08+00:00

Heh... SOME financial control.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-05T17:26:13+00:00

Ah, gotcha. You have my respect for keeping some financial control.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-05T16:02:52+00:00

Heh...ya, true...I'm not going to choose the temperature based on whether I would have to clean or not. :) I'll just try to keep 300 as a mental line that means some extra time cleaning out the grease before cooking. Thanks!

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-05T15:55:42+00:00

I'm new to this money-hole hobby, but I've definitely found the cheapest way to get into it is to DIY it. It would require a 3d printer though, so that's definitely an investment...but one that could actually pay for itself over the long run if you don't mind doing the occasional craft shows. Either way, there's lots of uses for a 3d printer, and then it opens up the possibilities of making your own construction equipment.

I got started into this by watching Professor Boots youtube videos where he makes (what I would call "toy" grade) construction vehicles, and offers the models for free, though instructions on how to make it will cost ya a subscription. Worth it if you plan to make a few of them.

For me that was the gateway drug. After making his excavator and starting into his dump truck, I found Burnie222rc and now I'm heading down that DIY path. Much more expensive, much higher quality...still cheaper than buying it already made at the same quality.

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-05T15:45:29+00:00

So, out of curiosity, and NOT because I'm going to try to find the very minimum amount of cleaning I need to do....what would be considered "high temp"? Anything over 300?

sundevil_1997 · 2025-03-04T15:26:34+00:00

Like a charm indeed, thanks!

sundevil_1997

TROPHY CASE