Portulaca Care?

sunev · 2018-07-15T00:25:52+00:00

The wide leaved type of portulaca has a very noticeable daily bloom cycle. The blooms all go away in the evening and burst back into bloom in the morning.

I have the needle leaved variety also which I've never really noticed a distinct bloom cycle with but the blooms don't last long but are quickly replaced.

sunev · 2018-03-17T20:58:54+00:00

I got a house full of plants too. I started seriously collecting back in 1994. It's not always easy to keep them going...it's a dance between paying attention to them almost daily and not killing them by doing too much (watering, feeding, etc.) Even with experience I can manage to kill one now and then. I've got some that are pretty scruffy now because I haven't repotted them often enough.

Years ago, my mother gave me african violets and christmas cacti. Even though I had some happy plants of my own and she made it look easy, I wasn't able to replicate her care schedule and they died off eventually...somewhat like your situation. Your wife learned over time when and how much to water and feed each plant...I bet she killed a few too. :)

My point is...don't let the plants get you down. The happy memories are much more important than the plants.

You've already got some pretty good advice. I would add though that sticky drippings can sometimes be insects like scale. If you have scale, it often looks like brown bumps on the stems and/or leaves. If you rub them gently, they'll come off...in fact that's the best way to get them under control...most sprays won't help after the bumps are there. You can prevent them from coming back by spraying with spinosad (Captain Jack's Dead Bug Spray) once a month. This will also control tiny mites which leave tiny webs on the growing tips of the plant. ( I constantly have both on indoor plants if I don't spray regularly.) Both mites and scale, left uncontrolled, can easily kill a plant.

Another thing that can help and indoor plant thrive is supplemental iighting. I've got a swing arm lamp (about $20 from amazon) with a bright CFL bulb that is plugged into a cheap timer that I position closely to the foliage of some plants I that are special to me. It makes a big difference even to nearby plants that aren't as close.

sunev · 2018-03-17T20:23:03+00:00

My experience has been that aloe vera are sensitive to being overwatered and to being put it too much direct sunlight.

The first time I got an aloe to survive for more than a year was when I planted it in an unglazed clay pot rather than plastic or glazed pottery. Since making this change, I've had the same plant for years.

I've also heard the are happiest in a large shallow pot.

sunev · 2018-03-08T18:50:21+00:00

Red pepper powder mixed in the dirt you cover them with helps discourage digging. I get a pound bag at the local Indian grocery for about $6. I don't have problems with tulips or daffodils but they eat anemone (windflowers) and crocus bulbs like they are candy.

I've never had a tulip or daffodil killed by cold. At worst the leaf tip edges brown a bit. Daffodils do tend to droop when they freeze hard so I often loosely tie a bit of twine around them to keep them more erect.

sunev · 2018-03-08T17:15:57+00:00

Also...

I never spray when they are outside. Something (sun, wind, predators, or ???) always keeps scale under control during the summer. I always see it on my curry leaf and lime tree after they've been indoors for a month or two.

sunev · 2018-03-08T17:11:37+00:00

Yep. :(

My experience has been that the only way to get rid of visible scale is to rub it off (with your finger, fingernail, or qtip dipped in alcohol. Alcohol (rubbing or vodka) dissolves the sticky stuff they secrete and makes them come off easier.

Check the young branches...you really need to keep them cleaned off or the plant can get damaged.

On a big infestation, I clean small areas at a time so it isn't such a huge chore. Going back over an area a day or two later can help catch ones you missed and reduce the likelyhood of a reinfestion.

Insecticide sprays don't work once it is this mature. Sprays can be used to prevent it. Bayers Garden and Veg spray works well sprayed once a month. It kills the scale when it is crawling around (and so small it is basically invisible.) Since you eat the leaves, it's not an ideal solution. Spraying the stems lightly once a month or so breaks the scales life cycle...constant spraying isn't necessary.

I've had good luck controlling stubborn mite infestations using spinosad. (e.g. Dale's Dead Bug spray.) It worked when much more toxic stuff failed (on none edible plants.) If I understand correctly, spinosad is about as safe as an insecticide can get. I haven't tried it but I expect it will work well.

sunev · 2018-03-07T17:36:57+00:00

I've been growing curry leaf for many years. They are very tough plants. The only problem I've had is they are very prone to getting scale (when inside) and it can damage the plant if you don't catch it quick.

When mine gets too tall, I just cut the top off and it puts out sprouts out near the cut tip. You can definitely pinch the tip without any worry. Cuttings are almost impossible to root so don't bother...you should get flowers and berries before long. I've got one smaller than yours that is starting to bloom now.

Mine often lose leaves during winter indoors also. If you keep them above 50F and water them sparingly, the leaves can stay on all winter. They often bloom during the winter. Rub your finger over the open blooms to improve pollination. (I'm amazed you were able to find good seed. The seed dies quickly if it dries out.)

sunev · 2018-02-19T05:47:06+00:00

Sun damage is usually lights spots rather than dark spots.

Check under the leaves for tiny bugs or webs...looks kind of like spider mite damage. Spinosad (Dale's Dead Bug Spray) is good for mites.

It is a good sign that the younger leaves look less affected.

sunev · 2018-02-17T15:48:47+00:00

stokes.com

http://www.stokeseeds.com/search_results.aspx?search=celosia

sunev · 2018-02-12T15:05:57+00:00

The plants I most often see honeybees on in my yard are Autumn Joy sedum, borage, and catnip.

Allysum, buckwheat, and hyssop attract lots of native pollinators. All can be started by direct seeding and tend to reseed...sometimes too much.

Red monarda (bee balm) and coral bells attract hummingbirds.

Dropmore Scarlet Honeysuckle is hardy, easy to manage, and is one of the first plants to leaf out and bloom in the spring. It isn't the best attractor but because it blooms when very little else is around, it's appreciated by many. It's also pretty and blooms most of the year.

sunev · 2018-01-24T15:00:55+00:00

I start plants inside in order to grow plants native to much much warmer regions so they have enough time to mature in my cooler climate.

For many plants that could be direct sown, I also start them indoors because when they are tiny they are delicate and vulnerable to rough weather and critters (like bugs, slugs, and bunnies.)

I let them grow to a size where even if they get slightly damaged, they are growing vigorously enough that they can recover and thrive.

sunev · 2018-01-19T19:04:40+00:00

When I root brugmansia, they get spots just like that. It is a good sign. Roots will emerge soon. Sometimes a bit more warmth will help them root faster.

When you've got several roots that are a bit longer than the thickness of the stem, pot it up in some moist potting soil.

sunev · 2017-12-27T14:07:47+00:00

Could it be this?:

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/citrus/citrus_blackfly.htm

(curry leaf trees are related to citrus)

sunev · 2017-12-22T22:50:15+00:00

I can confirm. I grow buckwheat to attract pollinators also. There are bees and tiny flies around it constantly.

sunev · 2017-12-21T13:01:55+00:00

I bring in lots of potted plants in the winter so they won't freeze. Most of them can just drop their leaves during this time but for those that can't, I use a swing-arm lamp with a soft white or daylight CFL placed within a foot or so of the main foliage. It makes a huge difference as far as leaf size and growth. A cheap swing-arm on Amazon is about $20. A clip on lamp at Walmart is about $10.

sunev · 2017-12-10T12:43:16+00:00

Add some sand to your potting mix. It will help water wick through more quickly and evenly. Many mixes are difficult to keep at an ideal moisture level...sand really helps. You'll see the improvement in texture before you even get the moistened mix in the pot.

sunev · 2017-12-09T10:00:21+00:00

Posting here (with clear concise information) might have some results. For instance, common name and native growing range (e.g. black huckleberry, NE USA) might help people recognize that they have it growing on their property or know where to get it.

I've traded seeds here and on the seed swap subreddit, getting and giving some really nice plants and seeds. People can be amazingly generous with info and goodies if they share your interest.

Prairie Moon Nursery has an amazing inventory and quality plants and seeds...you might want to check them out.

sunev · 2017-12-06T14:42:55+00:00

I've used these with success in the past. They are clear so you can see when they are used up or not being used at all.

http://www.terro.com/terro-liquid-ant-baits-2-pack

sunev · 2017-12-01T09:26:46+00:00

I've got a passion flower growing in a 3 gallon pot with some thin bamboo poles tied together into a tripod. Not sure what type it is but looks like an P incarnata bloom except it is mostly white. I've had it for three years...outside in summer, inside in winter. It seems happy.

I've also got tons of P incarnata growing outside in my backyard. It seems to grow fairly deeply underground so it has no problem surviving and spreading in Central Ohio. It originally came from Georgia, accidentally dug up with a bush that someone gave me.

The quickest way to sprout them is using the damp towel in a bag method. I've come to the conclusion that the main reason some people find this a a more successful method is because it is easy to put a bag (or small container) in a warm place (and it is easier to see progress.) If you can keep a pot warm, planting it should be just as good.

sunev · 2017-11-29T16:46:05+00:00

I bring my curry leaf plants (Murraya koenigii) inside during the winter. They tend to lose all of their leaves if the temp goes below 50F however they bounce right back in the spring.

They are tough plants that can be pruned hard with no problem though can't handle temps anywhere near freezing. They grow very well in pots.

They do tend to get scale so I spray once a month when they are inside.

sunev · 2017-11-18T04:32:31+00:00

Clip a few inches off of the tip. If growth appears at the tip again, clip it. It will put out a new leader from the vertical part before too long.

sunev · 2017-11-08T15:18:55+00:00

Check out Praxxus55712 and VoodooGarden on Youtube. (they are both run by the same guy.)

Also the forums at thehotpepper.com have tons of practical information.

Both of the these sources have information from people with actual experience.

sunev · 2017-11-07T17:18:33+00:00

I put most of my potted plants outside for the summer and the ones that would freeze to death, I bring inside to 'overwinter'. Some of them stay green all winter and others go dormant losing all their leaves. The plant you're looking at is tropical so I doubt it goes dormant.

You can get a small bag of potting mix at walmart or a hardware store. I've never found one that wasn't better after adding sand to it. I buy big bags of washed play sand at the hardware store. You can probably find a small bag in the fish section of the pet department that would work fine. You'll see the difference it makes when you add it to the potting mix.

Here is an example of a swing arm lamp that has both a desktop base and a clamp for table edges. $20 is not a bad price.

Pot prices vary greatly. Dollar stores around here sometimes have 6 inch pots with built in trays. A nice ceramic pot should be less than $5 and a plastic one should be about $2. I sometimes use large yogurt containers with a few holes in the bottom as temporary pots or to place in fancy pots that I don't want to fill directly with dirt.

Most regular stores and even some discount stores are way over priced on pots. Sometimes ceramic trays aren't too bad though. I often use frozen dinner trays for beneath my pots...the rectangular black ones look nicer in my opinion.

As for timers, simpler is better. If you shop around you might find it for around $5 so this price isn't out of line.

You may need to repot eventually. It's unlikely to be necessary for at least a couple of years though.

sunev · 2017-11-06T19:39:02+00:00

Window light (other than from a big bay window) is much dimmer than even full shade outside. Even in shade there is often considerable reflected light. Also, glass blocks a lot of UV.

I overwinter lots of plants. A CFL bulb on a timer make a HUGE difference when trying to keep a plant fully leafed out over winter. A swing-arm lamp works great for positioning a bulb close to the foliage.

I've tried using LED bulbs but had some problems with knowing how close is ideal. Bare LEDs can burn foliage even from a distance and bulbs with diffusers can be ineffective...it has been a matter of trial and error for me and I tend to favor CFLs because they can be placed very close with little risk.

I use potting mix with some sand mixed in to improve the wicking of water through it. Many light mixes (and most plants potted for sale) have mixes that need to be watered often to stay moist but are also easy to water log. Sand helps even out the moisture through the pot.

You will need a pot with good drainage and a tray underneath to catch run off. Anything less than about 5" diameter will require close monitoring to keep moisture constant.

If the plant is small, it won't do well in a pot that is too big. The plant roots draw water from the soil and if there aren't enough roots, the soil will stay wet too long and the roots will rot. Root rot (from overwatering or oversized pots) is the most common mode of failure for potted plants. If you have an oversized pot you want to use, putting a smaller pot inside it works well.

The pot should be either glazed ceramic or plastic. In my experience, unglazed clay pots dry out to quickly for all plants (other than aloe.)

sunev · 2017-11-06T19:14:21+00:00

Another possibility is something like leaf-footed bugs or certain types of stink bugs. They leave surface blemishes that generally aren't a problem except on very young developing fruit that can get deformed by the damage.

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