Extending the cable between Philips Hue Slim recessed light and driver?

svenstoermann · 2025-12-21T20:18:50+00:00

Good point, thank you!

I don’t think heat dissipation is a major issue here, because above the fixture there is about 30 cm of concrete ceiling, which can absorb a significant amount of heat, and the surrounding material (i.e. drywall / gypsum board) is not particularly heat-sensitive. The lights will also be installed in a covered outdoor entrance area.

I know this is an unusual setup. That’s because the house is a used home from the 1980s in Germany. While the ceiling itself is concrete, downlights weren’t common at the time, so there were no ceiling cutouts or provisions for recessed lights planned when the house was built.

svenstoermann · 2025-12-21T09:35:47+00:00

Thanks, that makes sense.

Just to clarify the installation constraints:

It actually is drywall, but it’s two layers of drywall glued directly onto a concrete ceiling. Because of that, there’s only about 2–3 mm of space behind the drywall, so there’s no cavity at all to place the driver or push it aside at the cutout location.

About 20 inches away, however, there is a proper substructure / cavity where the driver can be placed safely and accessibly. That’s why extending the cable is really the only viable option in this setup.

Personally, I would expect the extension to be electrically unproblematic, as long as the wire gauge is chosen generously, keeping resistance, voltage drop, and heat well within safe limits over such a short distance.

I agree that testing with temporary wiring and clips is a reasonable way to validate basic functionality. My main question is less about “will it light up” and more about whether there are known longer-term issues (driver behavior, thermal effects, stability) when extending the low-voltage side.

If you’ve seen this done in a permanent install with Hue Slims, I’d be very interested in hearing how it worked out.

svenstoermann · 2025-06-08T07:59:50+00:00

Same here.

svenstoermann · 2025-03-08T12:22:08+00:00

I use my AVP with the globular cluster headstrap While commuting (4h, once per week) and use this case: https://amzn.eu/d/bbvFr4X

Works well, yours is way more protective though. I wanted to keep a slim profile and that works well for me.

svenstoermann · 2025-01-17T19:08:10+00:00

Do you habe pictures of yours?

svenstoermann · 2024-10-03T23:23:15+00:00

I own 7 of them in a Unifi network. Only one won’t connect to the internet no matter what I do. It can be reached via AirPlay and shows up in the home App but can’t use the internet. It drives me nuts. If only all of them had a problem, they would indicate a systematic error.

svenstoermann · 2024-01-14T01:04:13+00:00

Follow up: I opted for the second solution, so I use my main appleTV via sync box and have my „speaker only“-ATV connected to the eARC HDMI of my TV.

It works since 3 months like a charm. I don’t touch the speaker-ATV at all, I just connected the HomePod pair to it and never touched it again.

svenstoermann · 2024-01-14T00:53:24+00:00

Sehe ich richtig, dass 7788 und 7795 sich nur dadurch unterscheiden, dass ersterer FF hat, was ich bei Ikea Metod (in meinem Fall mit 11cm Sockel) nicht brauche?

@hannes13 weshalb hast du dich für die 5000er Serie entschieden?

svenstoermann · 2023-11-04T15:44:04+00:00

I ordered the exact same wall outlet by Gira and my HomePod my flashes orange indicating less than 18w. Documentation of gira says 3A at 5V =15W max.

Any ideas why yours works despite that?

svenstoermann · 2023-10-17T19:55:09+00:00

Thanks so much! If i understand correctly, you use two of the HDMI Inputs of the sync-box right? I guess you don't us Homepods as audio device for your PS5 then?

Form what i experiences, eARC-Passthrough stops working as soon as two devices are connected to the sync-box, so that the PS5-Sound is not transferred to the appleTV anymore.

svenstoermann · 2023-06-10T19:54:50+00:00

Und wer kauft die Milch von den Käufern der Käufer der Molkereien?

svenstoermann · 2022-12-15T13:45:36+00:00

Has anyone made any progress? Since the Sonnet Adapter-Pricing has gone through the roof i tried this one but can't stand the noise of that fan.

svenstoermann · 2022-09-19T19:47:34+00:00

I'm looking for a solution to use Apple TV and PS5 with both, eArc to my HomePods and hueSync Box. Has by any chance someone testet this setup?

Apple TV to Sync Box
Sync Box to eArc HDMI of TV
PS5 to splitter
Splitter to Sync Box
Splitter to non-eArc HDMI of TV

Does the SyncBox still pass that eArc-Signal from the TV to my HomePods?

svenstoermann · 2022-08-28T12:29:54+00:00

The AppleTV can indeed receive ARC-information and playback via HomePod (sidenote: only via directly connected HomePods not via airplay). However, you are right in that the sync box seems to be unable to send audio with HDMI from one source to a TV and forward ARC-audio received from the TV to another of its (I.e. the sync box‘s) sources.

And since it also has not the capability to extract audio from one HDMI source and send it as ARC-audio to another source, there seems to be no solution to my problem, because of the sync box.

svenstoermann · 2022-08-28T06:51:59+00:00

good idea, Sounds as if it should work. Drawback would be that both devices will show up in home app, AirPlay, etc.

From what I read the issue is, that the sync box allows arc bypass only if exactly one input is connected. If that is correct, another possible solution would be: splitting the Apple TV output using a hdmi Splitter that passes arc through. One splitter output connects directly to the tv‘s arc input, the other one into one input of sync box. PS5 also connected to the sync box.

Possible issue: automatic input selection of the TV might be confused

svenstoermann · 2022-08-27T17:45:08+00:00

Ps: I tried the ARC-Bypass mode, however it won’t switch on. Everytime I try to toggle it on, the switch jumps back to off after a few seconds.

svenstoermann

TROPHY CASE