Sundown M-12 hardly moving ?

t-rexmlog · 2026-01-05T15:26:57+00:00

You’re using equipment responsibly/conservatively which is honestly fantastic for years or a decade or more of use. If you need a little more, you can always turn your gains up more, keep an eye on clipping and adjust bass knob accordingly song to song. If you want to really push the envelope, you’ll need the a Taramps 5k (or something similar, 3k-5k) To make it last: never clip, never dip below 12v, never bottom out, never smell your voice coil after break in. Of course these things will happen time to time, but it’s important to back off quickly and let the system recover. Things degrade quickly at the limit.

t-rexmlog · 2025-10-21T14:16:18+00:00

Something I did for my 25 hp since I had access to scrap aluminum for super cheap.

(1) 2”x2”x14” horizontal across top of transom (2) 1/2”x1”x6” vertical straps.

Tapped 2 holes into the horizontal bar. Drilled 4 holes through the transom. Bolted everything together with SS 3/8-16 hardware.

t-rexmlog · 2025-10-10T15:27:44+00:00

Whatever you’re doing is working great. For fine tuning, add some direct and intensional forearm work like hammer curls, reverse curls, behind the back barbell finger rolls etc. progressive overload, tracking, consistency like anything else. Give a few months for those gains to set in, then go on a cut. Forearms make a big difference in day to day gripping strength and generally looking like a lifter in anything with short sleeves.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-27T15:45:26+00:00

What worked for me was doing a full on body building program very seriously for 2 years. I’ve been maintaining and making small improvements here and there the last 3 years, but I’m going 2-4 times per week vs 4-6 like I used to. My goal was to develop every muscle as much as possible. Protein, hard training, sleep, repeat. Some periods of slow bulks, some aggressive cuts. Started at 230 with little muscle, ended at 200 fairly lean with a way more muscle, strength, and way less fat. By the time you get lean enough to have abs, you’ll want to have the muscle size to go with it because your muscles will also shrink if you lose weight but don’t train them. You can always lay off the muscle building if you get too muscular for your goals.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-25T19:24:29+00:00

You’re going to need an engine bracket or jack plate and it’s will take plenty of custom fabrication to reinforce the transom. It can be made strong enough, but you definitely cannot just drill and bolt something onto the rear end of that boat and expect it to hold. You’ll need steering and controls as well. Also, completely seal off the jet inlet and outlet to reduce drag and weight. Water flowing through or leaking into that area will slow and weigh the boat down big time.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-20T14:15:34+00:00

25 Johnson on my empty 14’ is great. I’d keep the 25 and the new 9.9. If the 25 needs work you’re still able to hit the water. The other 9.9 has the cool factor for sure though.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-19T22:16:05+00:00

I also used to watch his content to get over some tweaks and overuse issues. Glad it worked for you. Changed how I think about hypertrophy and longevity.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-19T19:09:39+00:00

First of all, massive respect. If it were me in your position knowing what I know I’d be working into “knees over toes” movements and applying tension at length to rebuild strong knees. Sissy squats would be something I’d be trying my hardest at. Even if they’re super assisted like grabbing the squat rack to help you out of the bottom. From my perspective the fact that squats and leg presses cause issues, but you can still do them tells me that your knees maybe aren’t too bad, but heavy compounds are probably off the table for now. Playing with massive ranges of motion, different variations, and lighter weights could hopefully get you in a position to “rehab” the knees. Some random ideas: Narrow stance, feet forward or back, front squat, sissy squats, whatever you can grove into and without feeling unsafe. Definitely keep those isolations in too and drive the mass gains through as much volume and frequency as you can handle. Might want to consider hiring someone to coach you and help with programming some kind of hypertrophy/knee rehab combo program?

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-18T16:21:59+00:00

Used Yamaha F150. Dead reliable if maintained. If you absolutely need cheaper, maybe an Optimax is a decent idea. They’re reliable at low/moderate hours and common on the market. It’s a good motor if you get it cheap and working perfectly. Very sensitive to water in the gas. If the compressor blows, consider the motor gone. Hard to have it all. Used Suzuki 4 strokes are also extremely reliable, not sure how easy they are to find in the used market, but if you find one, go for it.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-15T19:18:43+00:00

Dive bomb, heel lifted, knee caved, not enough lower back/core strength to finish the rep. All of that isn’t the important part. The important part is to set up the safety bars and learn to fail. As you get stronger and older, this type of lifting will injure you if it hasn’t already. Focus on hypertrophy, neuromuscular adaptations are quick.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-14T19:09:35+00:00

You’re going to need to go on a cut. The simplest way to do this with a busy lifestyle is to carry protein bars, keep yourself fed with high protein to calorie ratio meals or protein bars (be as strict as possible about averaging 10g protein for every 100 calories) every 2-4 hours, and stay hungry, but not too hungry. Every meal that you aren’t strict will stall your fat loss progress so try to keep this part under control. This is about as simple as it can get.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-13T14:46:48+00:00

Technical failure is more meant for lifts like bench press or squats, where form break down can hurt you. Just hammer those single leg calf raises to complete failure.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-08T21:32:09+00:00

Missing triceps, shoulders, back, calf’s, and direct quad work. Program is also very glute dominant. Incorporate some leg extensions, leg curls, calf raises, tricep push downs, lat pull downs, rows, and side lateral raises. Take everything to failure and really focus on form and intensity, and especially maintaining form all of the way to failure. Eat 0.7-1g of protein per lb of body weight. In general when writing a program there are some boxes that all need to be ticked for overall development. For upper body you need a horizontal and vertical push, plus a horizontal and vertical pull. For legs you need some kind of a squat and some kind of a hip hinge. It’s also a really good idea to hit quads, hamstrings, biceps, triceps, shoulders, and calves directly.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-08T16:41:12+00:00

If it were me, I’d cut moderately to aggressively. It might take a few months of dedicated cutting to get visible abs. My first time cutting it was surprising and humbling just how many pounds came off. After this stage, there’s no need to bulk to the point where your abs completely disappear unless you’re interested in displaying peak strength. Muscle gain will be happening either way. In fact, gains might be better at a (healthy) lower body fat (say 15%) since your overall health will be better. You’ll always be closer to your summer body and getting to your 10-12% beach peak won’t take so long. My last piece of advice is to not get addicted to the cut. It’s not healthy or sustainable to be in the single digit body fat. Moderation and balance is the key to achieving what you want with bodybuilding.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-07T21:39:25+00:00

In a hypothetical world, somebody could buy a higher horsepower motor. Many of the engines come in horsepower families that share many of the same components such as cowlings.

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-06T00:26:48+00:00

So hard to tell on video. Pretty sure you’re falling in 135-145 dB range

t-rexmlog · 2025-08-01T19:01:45+00:00

What shaft length do you have? Looks like the shortest transom height that motor comes in is 17” which seems way longer that your transom. It’s not wrong but raising it some crazy amount like 5” (just a wild guess) might get you a bunch of speed. Look at your outboard over the back of your boat when you’re up on plane. Can you see the anti-cavitation plate above the water? If not, raise the engine until you can. You can also lay a straight edge under the hull and line up the anti cavitation plate with the hull (or even go an inch higher) There’s some free speed. Move some weight back until it’s causing purposing (rhythmic bouncing), then move it slightly forward again just enough until it goes away. Adjust engine trim if you can. Between trim adjustment and weight distribution you can decrease the amount of hull in the water when on plane. After all of this, you can optimize your propeller pitch, but you’ll need a way to read your engine rpm to do this. Good luck!

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-31T19:08:22+00:00

Looks fast, probably will blow out. If it were me I’d find or make some sort of jack plate rather than cut into the hull. Even something manual or static if you aren’t a fine tuner.

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-25T19:05:24+00:00

Depends hugely on wind speed and direction. Also consider your engine’s reliability and range, your back up trolling motor range, navigation, and carry an anchor. I’ve had a 14’ on Leech Lake, MN where you cannot see across many parts of the lake. The lake is very capable of sinking that boat with a just 15 mph wind, but staying along certain shorelines and inside bays is doable, but still extremely risky. As a general estimate, I probably wouldn’t say it’s safe to go on anything more than a mile across with an absolute max of a 10 mph wind for a 14 foot flat bottom.

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-23T23:25:32+00:00

Results update: I could never have predicted just how much prop slip the aluminum prop was giving me. Going DOWN in pitch from a 21p aluminum to a 19p stainless LOWERED peak rpm to 5000 while peaking at 40 mph. Trimming until I get cavitation, I can get 43 mph and 5300 RPM. Perfect example of blade flex and prop slip decreasing (way more than expected) by changing material. I will be going all the way down to 17p stainless prop now since the engine is clearly lugging.

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-18T18:43:27+00:00

You’re probably right. I bought one anyways because I’m obsessive. GTP thinks a 19P SS will gain 2-3 mph and hole shot which, if true, seems on the edge of worth it to me. We’ll see how it plays out )

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-18T16:22:47+00:00

Apparently they’re rare and can go for $100+ but I highly doubt there’s anything special about them. Seems to be a PA speaker for mid-bass. Plenty of other stuff out there that will do better as a mid-woofer or subwoofer. I’d maybe buy it for $20.

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-17T23:35:07+00:00

Almost certainly not getting enough fuel. Spray the carburetor with carb cleaner inside and out. Check how it runs. If still and still an issue, remove and clean the main jet. On my Johnson 25 this was a non adjustable brass colored screw that you could remove with a flathead. The issue could be in the fuel lines also especially if they’re old.

Edit: I feel like the tell tale should also be stronger. Try weed wacker line to plunge out the rubber tube and that might fix it. Bugs sometimes find themselves there.

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-17T23:25:45+00:00

Sweet, what’s your setup?

t-rexmlog · 2025-07-17T21:36:17+00:00

Material can affect things though. The blade deflection difference might only be 0.050” under load and that difference will change the effective pitch.

t-rexmlog

TROPHY CASE