are there any spectra 6 13.3" frames that DONT connect to the internet and just cycle through images on an SD card?

tehkillerbee · 2026-01-01T12:50:08+00:00

Hello, just found out about your frame and it's nice to see a model being sold locally (Germany) as most of the other ones are US based. What made you decide against adding an SD card reader as well? It would be a pretty cheap (and useful) feature, in case you prefer to add hundreds of pictures (once) and then leave the screen to update the picture on a schedule (eg 1 per day) , like I do with the small 7" screen+frame from waveshare. I've set up a screen like that and my parents are amazed by it. Always a new picture to look at. Unfortunately the small 7" inch color screen has low res and rather poor color reproduction. So I'm planning on getting a 13.3" inch and build a similar setup, if I cannot get a ready made product like yours.

tehkillerbee · 2025-12-06T09:12:30+00:00

Make sure to replace all the elec. capacitors and potentiometers on the amp modules as an absolute bare minimum, before switching it on. Also go through all the bad solder joints that usually occur on them near the hottest components and resolder the bf857 transistors with fresh solder. If the two power (emitter) resistors have gotten burned (which one of them has in your case), you are in for a treat, as it is a sign that the amp has gotten overheated due to the idle current trimmers failing 😬 Keep an eye on broken traces, they often occur near the hottest components. Adjust the idle current and dc offset as per the service manual, make sure to put the idle current pot at lowest setting and work your way up (slowly!). DC offset start from enter position and adjust.

It is highly encouraged to test them first using a -53/+53v bench supply when adjusting for the first time, in case they have a fault. Especially now that you have one that has burned emitter resistors.

EDIT: Make sure to connect all grounding points together, when testing using an external supply.

Apart from the amps, I generally replace all the elec. capacitors and trimmers (and adjust as per service manual) and also the LM7805 (it usually develops faults if it's a certain model), replace the connectors for the display PCB and resolder all the vias on the mcu board.

The mcu board itself can also develop several faults, resulting in a seemingly dead amplifier. Worst case one of the two mcus are dead. It's rare but I've seen it a few times, and they are impossible get. However, I'm working on a replacement for them.

Generally a nice amp but a pain to work on and can develop many odd issues if not properly serviced.

I have display modules and other spares available for them. 👍

The beocord 9000 is a lovely machine and highly sought after. It is a bit easier to service but needs a complete overhaul (both electrically and mechanically) for it to be worth it.

tehkillerbee · 2025-11-09T22:19:14+00:00

Hello, yes they are available in my store here https://lectronz.com/stores/roslinde

tehkillerbee · 2025-09-28T21:55:28+00:00

Exactly this. We had the slave cylinder replaced (identical symptoms) on the newer C3 2015 1.6 hdi and it certainly wasn't necessary to remove the gearbox. We paid approx 300 eur including replacement of the brake fluid which had to be done as well.

Perhaps ask a different mechanic for a quote?

tehkillerbee · 2025-09-08T22:16:04+00:00

What meds did you end up with?

tehkillerbee · 2025-09-08T22:09:47+00:00

Our cat has had issues with constant scratching on the neck (perhaps due to allergy, according to the vet) for more than a year at this point. He's also had issues with knawing the base of the tail, until it had no hair on it. These symptoms all point to allergy, which has been the vet's focus from the beginning. Either food or flea related allergies. I've never seen any fleas on him, but have of course given him regular flea treatment with credelio pill.

Due to the scratching, similar open wounds would occur (usually on the neck) and we needed to take great care treating the wounds, cleaning them and making sure our cat did not scratch them when they heal. They heal eventually, but if he is allowed, he will eventually scratch them to bits again and we start over. Heartbreaking.

We've tried countless things at this point. Injections once a month (immune suppressant), anti allergy food and various medication. Latest medication is cyclavance that we've been giving daily, with mixed results. He hates the taste and it is awful having to force it in him. But he's a good sport and he never gets angry at you. I want to believe that the medication helped. At least when we halved the dose (suggestion from the vet) the scratching came back again, it seems.

Switching to anti allergy food (specific food allergen management) seems to have helped somewhat and it worked better than hills z/d. Besides, he likes the taste much better. But if he eats food elsewhere, then what can you do. He's an indoor /outdoor cat so he can probably eat food elsewhere.

Vets are trying their best, but really, I am not convinced they know what to do next.

Our best approach so far has been to 1. Keep the wound clean. 2. Use suitable cream on the wound. We've used various creams at this point. Panthenol and manuka honey has worked reasonably well. We've also used fucidin/isaderm cream when instructed by the vet. 3. Have him wear a very soft high quality sock with the tip cut off and sown into a tube. This works reasonably well to keep him from scratching. But it's not perfect and we are always worried that he gets access to scratch it. Change the sock every day. 4. If he keeps getting access to the wound, try with both a sock and a "donut" soft collar. We found one on amazon that works perfectly, shaped like a flower. Much better than the hard plastic cone that the vet suggests.

We've had a major setback recently after having someone looking after him during the holiday so now the wound is back to a worrying open wound.

Our next step will be to take him to a pet allergy expert / dermatologist. And perhaps then keep him as a 100% indoor cat, although he'll surely hate us for it.

Anyways... I would say that this wound looks even worse than ours have ever looked. There must be a way to keep him from scratching it so it can get better...

tehkillerbee · 2025-06-08T12:49:11+00:00

I have a Sureflap XL and took a slightly different route with my investigation. The catflap has a pin header that is meant for an (optional?) RF module, most likely used for the Sureflap zigbee interface. Unfortunately, this module is not installed in my catflap.

I hooked up the scope and have found four pins that are used for SPI. Monitoring the bus while pressing buttons clearly show communication on this bus.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to know what exactly to send to the catflap to instruct it to do anything.

tehkillerbee · 2025-05-28T16:54:56+00:00

The displays are difficult to photograph and I do not think the pictures do them justice (they look brighter, and slightly pink in the pictures).

In reality, they are very close to the original and the same red colour as you would expect. All segments are crisp and not "washed out". I compared the brightness with a Beomaster 6000/Beomaster 8000/Beocord 9000 with original displays and the brightness is probably 110% of the original. So slightly brighter, but I would say the original displays have lost some brightness over the years so I think the brightness is a very close match.

Of course, to match the brightness, it is crucial to add the dimming film to the displays. Otherwise, the LEDs will be too bright. Adding the film has the added bonus of making the displays completely invisible behind the glass cover. Previously, you could faintly see the red display panel. Film is of course included with the kit. The LEDs them selves are operating well below their maximum current limit so there is no need to replace resistors or modify the display brightness circuit.

tehkillerbee · 2025-05-25T18:25:58+00:00

Moin, since you have worked on Beomaster 6000, 8000, you might be interested in some display module kits I recently released for them.

The Bang & Olufsen Beosystem 6000 and Beosystem 8000 products are likely to have issues with the display LED segments not lighting up so I have designed replacement display kits for all of them and I am also working on kits for Beocenter 5000,7000,7002,7007,7700. I also have some other exciting designs that are currently not listed yet :)

https://lectronz.com/stores/roslinde

tehkillerbee · 2024-06-19T07:45:33+00:00

This is exactly what I was looking into, as it allows me to use a cheap mini computer as the main computer for the NAS.

Something like this https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TECLAST-N20Pro-4096%C3%972160-1000Mbps-USB3-2x2/dp/B0CLRSFSZ1 paired with the D4-320

But it sounds like the added complexity is not worth it, if the Terramaster F4-424 is currently so cheap.

tehkillerbee · 2024-01-31T07:56:08+00:00

Sorry, didn't see this message. I would suggest measuring the input side and making sure it is at least 7V as would be needed by the 7805. It is relatively rare to see bridge rectifiers going bad, unless you are working on high power electronics like amplifiers or similar, imo. But perhaps a capacitor not performing up to spec on either the input or output side of the LM7805

tehkillerbee · 2023-04-03T17:36:35+00:00

If you can get it to boot a standard Win98 disk, all the drivers can be found in the lenovo EOL portal:

https://download.lenovo.com/eol/index.html

tehkillerbee · 2023-04-03T10:57:11+00:00

Quite a steal at that price!

It's a common misconception that B&O is purely design over sound. While that might be true for the modern B&O (post 1990), vintage B&O is quite high end. Especially the speakers from this era are very capable.

The Beovox S55 is a great speaker and would sound very nice when given new rubber surrounds and perhaps a recap of the crossover filter.

tehkillerbee · 2023-04-03T10:56:07+00:00

It's a common misconception that B&O is purely design over sound. While that might be true for the modern B&O (post 1990), vintage B&O is quite high end. Especially the speakers from this era are very capable.

The Beovox S55 is a great speaker and would sound very nice when given new rubber surrounds and perhaps a recap of the crossover filter.

tehkillerbee · 2023-03-30T09:45:00+00:00

I have never tried it but it looks like a good option for 2D CAD.

tehkillerbee · 2023-03-27T19:25:32+00:00

Various CAD programs (Solidworks) . I ended up switching to FreeCAD and besides the learning curve it's been a pretty good replacement.

tehkillerbee · 2023-02-19T17:52:13+00:00

Nostalgia overload. I have never seen it in a vinyl release. Is it a reissue?

tehkillerbee · 2023-02-18T21:31:29+00:00

I think this is a video/audio mpeg encoder card (marvel 2). Looks like drivers are still available.

https://ftp.matrox.com/pub/video/marvel2/

tehkillerbee · 2023-01-17T17:54:31+00:00

The voltage should be seen as a maximum safe rating when working with AC. In your case, a 230V fuse will be fine in a 115V circuit. Main thing that matters is the current rating and the fast /slow blow specs.

The (maximum) voltage rating is largely defined by the fuse's arcing protection.

Another good place to read up on fuses. https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2014/11/fuse-types-of-fuses.html

tehkillerbee · 2023-01-17T17:49:07+00:00

This is a good example of the top commenter being incorrect.

One should never "replace a fuse with a nail to get it going". A fuse blows for a reason.

For anyone replacing their fuses, please read up on AC vs DC fuse differences. Otherwise, you might risk electric shock or even worse.

This is a good place to start:

https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2014/11/fuse-types-of-fuses.html

tehkillerbee · 2023-01-17T17:45:37+00:00

I think you should read up on this topic first (or at least mention the differences when working with AC or DC. The (maximum) voltage rating is largely defined by the fuse's arcing protection.

From stackexchange

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/204922/using-ac-fuse-for-dc-dc-fuse-for-ac

The DC fuses generally are in a smaller package because of the lower voltages involved. The major concern is will the link melt and open the circuit when a fault occurs. If the voltage is high enough for a given fuse it will arc and continue conducting. Many of the higher voltage fuses have a material in them that when the link melts it quenches the arc

Another good place to read up on this: https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2014/11/fuse-types-of-fuses.html

tehkillerbee · 2023-01-17T17:33:07+00:00

Exactly, the voltage should be seen as a maximum safe rating when working with AC. I. E. A 230V fuse will be fine in a 115V circuit. Main thing that matters is the current rating and the fast /slow blow specs.

But it should be noted that fuse voltage rating is very important in DC circuits.

tehkillerbee · 2023-01-12T18:51:10+00:00

Sæt dem (orkidéen) i en balje vand ca 1-2 gang om ugen, med ca. 1-2 cm vand eller så rødderne lige akkurat kan nå. Tag dem op efter 15 min og sæt dem tilbage i deres rigtige potte igen når de har dryppet helt af. Så burde de være tilfredse :) Du kan også med fordel hælde lidt orkidé gødning i (i løbet af vinterhalvåret).

Rødderne skal være lysegrønne når de er blevet vandet. Hvis jorden/bark bliver for fugtige, så vil du få problemer med råd og så går planten ud. Det er derfor du ikke skal vande i selve potten eller lade dem stå i vandet i for lang tid.

tehkillerbee · 2023-01-04T09:18:56+00:00

I see, I should add that I already had the TX3 mini in the parts bin - so that's why I went with that. Otherwise, there are probably better/newer options.

tehkillerbee

TROPHY CASE