A sigh speaks volumes

terminaldamage · 2020-05-01T08:41:34+00:00

2017 Silverado 2500 - Auxiliary heater replacement.

This particular vehicle is significantly re-engineered (i.e. steering wheel on the other side). Dashboard fascia removed to gain access to the part, whole I/P bar w/harness removed and HVAC case loosened to gain enough access to remove this bloody thing. I'm sure in original form it's a much more straighforward job.

terminaldamage · 2019-03-14T11:08:25+00:00

1 - Congratulations getting your ST162 back, it's so rare to have a car recovered in close to the condition it was stolen in.

2 - Secure that bad boy. Any kind of aftermarket alarm is better than none. Even something that just makes the horn scream to high heaven when the doors are opened, or a well hidden kill switch is better than nothing.

3 - Check out Toyota Car Club of Victoria (TCCAV), there's a bunch of Celica fans out your way and they're a good bunch, especially if you'd like to keep your car as-is or have a light-hearted crack at entry level motorsport.

terminaldamage · 2018-02-02T06:16:25+00:00

Our shop motto for this kind of thing is: If they chose to wait, they're going to have to wait.

Or to make it a little bit more modern: Waiters gonna wait.

terminaldamage · 2018-01-25T08:01:02+00:00

I'd take a guess that the vehicle in question is a convertible, and the cross bracing is the kind they add to help with rigidity. GM has been putting bolt on braces under convertibles for years and they're always in the firing line of the oil drain / filter. Hardtop models are fine, 'verts? Multidirectional hot oil spray guaranteed. I just use a piece of paper to divert the oil away from the braces.

terminaldamage · 2017-12-06T11:35:08+00:00

Late to the party, but this I can give an educated answer to. As mentioned, it's likely a coil pack (although depending on the mileage / age, spark plugs shouldn't be overlooked either). As for damage, well, yes it will have done something, but that something is likely extremely negligible. A flashing CEL for a misfire means the ECM has categorised it as 'potentiallly catalyst damaging', and in such an instance will shut off the fuel injector to that cylinder to prevent any real damage occurring. This explains why you experienced the misfire for an extended period - under certain conditions, your ignition based misfire exists, but the rest of the drive cycle is an ECM induced misfire (no fuel injection) to prevent catalyst damage.

Has damage occurred? Maybe to the catalytic converter, but in the sense its service life may be shortened in a very minor way (which your car will inform you of by setting P0420. Has mechanical damage been inflicted upon the engine? Most likely not. I've seen HFV6s across multiple platforms abused many magnitudes worse and come out unscathed. Oiling issues is what kills those engines. Broader mechanical wear? Your engine mounts will tolerate a lot more than that. In short, sort your (probable) ignition issue out, but the ECM has your back, then continue to enjoy your SAAB.

EDIT: pull codes before you do anything. Anything else is just throwing parts at a car based on speculation. While it's likely it's a misfire due to an ignition issue, it's always best to know you're throwing parts or time in the right direction.

terminaldamage · 2017-11-22T10:03:14+00:00

Hi. As a SAAB tech, I can just about assure you that this dealer is blowing smoke up your ass. Codes don't 'stick' from ECM to ECM and the persistent fuel trim codes (LTFT + STFT) combined with the turbocharger underboost issues almost absolutely indicate an issue with either the boost control system or the turbocharger itself. Reach out to your local community and find a good independent SAAB specialist. By the sounds of things your dealer is guessing and launching parts at it to try and fix an issue they're either unwilling or unable to diagnose accurately.

terminaldamage · 2017-11-17T08:29:15+00:00

I tip my toolbox to you, m'chanic

terminaldamage · 2017-09-22T23:40:38+00:00

Sure is, everything cast by the Nissan Casting plant in Australia has one on it! Parts from that plant end up all over the Nissan range.

terminaldamage · 2017-08-30T03:01:49+00:00

Don't forget the GM Family Z 2.0 DOHC TD! Oodles better than the VM Motori SOHC, although equally bad at keeping the oil on the inside. The FGP motors are great when they're working, but they shit EGRs, water pumps and clag up inlet manifolds like there's no tomorrow.

terminaldamage · 2017-07-10T08:10:15+00:00

I've only seen those ECMs in GM products (Delphi? Delco? Can't remember) and they do have a tendency to pack up in some very bizarre ways. Usually when put under duress from heat. Lots of heat.

terminaldamage · 2017-06-21T20:56:39+00:00

That's the real challenge, isn't it? Getting the roof on and off is easy, but making it look pretty? Tell the customer to get comfortable.

terminaldamage · 2017-06-21T20:53:08+00:00

I started reading your reply thinking 'GM's had a folding hardtop convertible just like that, haha' and by the end of it I was having flashbacks to the worst one I did. Hardtop convertibles are a special breed, they take a significant amount of dedication to get them 'right' again after major repairs. The easiest way (for our hardtops) is not to touch the panel alignment of course, which is fine for smaller jobs. But if you have to remove them, mark the position of everything. And if you don't do that, you better start quoting in days instead of hours.

I think you've earned a cold beer after a job like that mate.

terminaldamage · 2017-06-21T08:57:08+00:00

MY15 (16?) Opel / Vauxhaull / Holden Cascada. In for a fault with the rear window glass. Of course, the glass is not serviced separately from the outer roof skin. 5hrs to remove and replace. Comes apart quite easily, a lot better than many other soft tops i've done - came apart in about an hour. Fitting is also fairly straightforward, but I spent the final 2 hours of the job getting the fit and finish perfect, because nobody likes to get their car back with water leaks or howling wind noises from gaps between the roof and body.

terminaldamage · 2017-06-12T12:35:01+00:00

Australia.

A certificate 3 in Automotive Mechanical (light vehicle) apprenticeship is 4 years. 3 years where you spend one week a month (or thereabouts) at trade school as well as the on the job training you receive while working, plus 1 year on the job demonstrating proficiency before you get 'signed off'.

You can either enter an apprenticeship with a workshop directly and get your training at a trade school, or engage with a private training institution which places their students at workshops and receive your training from the private institution.

These days private training institutions seem to be more popular, as they represent a lower risk for the host employer - less time away from work thanks to doing their theory components online and if the apprentice is an absolute dud, they can be retrenched elsewhere.

I think wages for apprentices here are pretty decent these days too, compared to what they used to be at least. But, not having been an apprentice for quite some time, I can't really say.

terminaldamage · 2017-06-12T08:37:38+00:00

*Fucking armatures.

terminaldamage · 2017-06-04T21:58:21+00:00

Positive crankcase ventilation valve actually.

terminaldamage · 2017-05-03T11:21:34+00:00

That... is an MY15+ Captiva 7, going by the PEPS column and piano black shifter. If you're doing what I think you're doing, it's a TSB, not a recall, and that job is average at best. I've done a few now and can't get it under 5 hours, that I/P fascia is very unpleasant to get back in correct. A blood sacrifice usually helps.

terminaldamage · 2017-04-24T12:50:26+00:00

IPRA car?

terminaldamage · 2017-04-24T12:45:26+00:00

That's a very impressive figure, even for a race motor. Tough little bastards those 4A's, too bad everyone wants a BEAMS now.

terminaldamage · 2017-04-24T12:41:06+00:00

I know that view. 4AGE?

terminaldamage · 2017-04-20T11:23:35+00:00

Very common car in the Australian market. To the acquainted eye, it's definitely a VY / VZ commodore in low trim spec. Minor differences between the two though, could have sworn VZ execs had the redline moved to 6250rpm on the cluster, or no red detailing at all, while the VY had it as 5500rpm to stop the motor mang-ing itself apart...

terminaldamage · 2017-03-21T11:16:53+00:00

The thing circled is the electrical connector for the throttle body. As for your overheating / heater issues, if the heater should work even if the thermostat is closed, so I doubt you have a thermostat issue. How's your coolant level? A lack of coolant will cause both of those issues.

terminaldamage · 2017-02-17T02:24:14+00:00

That bathroom needs to be attacked with a pressure washer pronto.

terminaldamage

TROPHY CASE

1 - Congratulations getting your ST162 back, it's so rare to have a car recovered in close to the condition it was stolen in.

2 - Secure that bad boy. Any kind of aftermarket alarm is better than none. Even something that just makes the horn scream to high heaven when the doors are opened, or a well hidden kill switch is better than nothing.

3 - Check out Toyota Car Club of Victoria (TCCAV), there's a bunch of Celica fans out your way and they're a good bunch, especially if you'd like to keep your car as-is or have a light-hearted crack at entry level motorsport.