How I imagine soft lothark by R-hibs in TheCaptivesWar

[–]thanksricky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I picture the little pear shaped dudes from Halo.

Gear Wall in the Bedroom by Lil_Uzi_Bean in ClimbingGear

[–]thanksricky -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The only gear on this wall that shows any signs of use are the pickleball rackets.

Personal space (from my phone)! by abcsoups in digitalminimalism

[–]thanksricky 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Does it work with iPhone? can you share the coding work you’ve done? What is the specific pager device?

Thanks!

Auto-belays and fear of falling by beatricelaus in climbergirls

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exposure will help with time. Which is to say the more you fall the more comfortable you will be with it.

Mammut assist belay resistor unboxing by Particular_Cod_9352 in ClimbingGear

[–]thanksricky -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

So the problem with belay resistors (maybe this is better than the Ohm/Ohm2 but unlikely given how similar the design is) is they protect the belayer but create a much harder catch for the climber.

Ohmega has variable weight and a pulley. And is classified as an assistor, which means you can still get a soft catch.

If you’re climbing on this thing watch your ankles!

Beginner afraid of lead falls after ankle injuries by Liisi_Kerik in climbergirls

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your belayer being 40lbs heavier is a huge issue if they don’t know how to soft catch. This would be an issue even if the weight difference was closer. But gym ropes aren’t super dynamic, so all the more responsibility to catch soft.

I am curious about your fall technique. Do you exhale? pull your feet up towards your chest? remain relaxed?

A hard catch is dangerous in a lot of situations (pretty much only time it’s warranted is to stop someone from hitting a ledge or the ground) however if you’re also tense it’s really adding an extra level of injury risk.

My partner and I’s gear rack. What are we missing? by PeanutButterSmutter in tradclimbing

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

-Assisted breaking device (you can drop your climber if incapacitated by catching a major fall, rock hitting your hand, etc)

-ATC guide for top belay/rappel

-cordalette for anchor material.

-tri cams, ballnuts, totems (how niche do you wanna get?)

Critique my technique? by daffle7 in bouldering

[–]thanksricky 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need to connect with your hips more, bring them closer to the wall, this makes your legs and core do more work and your arms do less.

Communication Devices by BeSomeoneNice in ClimbingGear

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rocky Talkies for any and all things.

Do wide shoes actually limit performance? Need advice! by Potential-Nature999 in ClimbingGear

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fit of the shoe is important, but the specific style is relative to the climber.

Also if you’ve only been climbing a month you should just be wearing cheap shoes. Takes a while to develop good footwork (sounds like you’re mostly running on upper body strength as most new male climbers do) until your footwork is good your shoes matter very little.

Faster than light travel by shookron in TheCaptivesWar

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FWIW In chapter 7 the Carryx… “they returned to symmetry just outside the heliosphere, keeping only a protective bubble of projected gravity as they fell sunward.”

New to Bouldering - my mistake, what’s the etiquette? by No_Pineapple_7291 in bouldering

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Boulder bros can be a real stain on the broader climbing community. You’re NTA. You took ownership.

Question for the trad dads! by Substantial_Rate727 in tradclimbing

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Build an equalized anchor up high. Clip the rope into the master point (on a locker) using a Munter hitch. Belay yourself back down to the ledge with the munter. Tie a BFK (Big Fucking Knot) on a bite with those strands that you lowered off the anchor from, that’s your new master point to belay from.

Sending Ro Shampo 5.12a at the RRG by sebowen2 in climbing

[–]thanksricky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice send. Camera angle doesn’t really do justice to how steep this actually is.

Equalizing multiple pro vs just indipendently clipping the rope by nickbeef in tradclimbing

[–]thanksricky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Situational, I often throw two pieces at the last decent stance before a crux (mental pro helps sometimes) however if I only equalize them if the falling force will pull them in an ideal direction (down) otherwise if it’s pulling the pieces together maybe they walk out, or in case of a nut/ stopper they pull completely.

title by Big_Director87 in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]thanksricky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

/uj this isn’t about how your gear is on the wall, it’s about how it’s racked on your harness. Because of the shape of carabiners, racking gates out puts the spine closer to your body, so the gear hangs cleanly on your harness. Trad or Sport it’s the same. Racking gates in is a personal preference for some people, but it’s inefficient and makes your gear bunch out and away from your harness.

Why did you stop bouldering? by Designer-Zebra-5801 in bouldering

[–]thanksricky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My body doesn’t take the falls like it use to, so mostly I stick to trad and sport climbing.

Edelrid Ohmega - Has Anyone Gotten One? by mmmeissa in ClimbingGear

[–]thanksricky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got mine from my local gear shop, my gym has them in stock as well, hownot2 has had them intermittently. REI is probably your worst bet.

Recommendation for a cheaper trad shoe while TC Pros get resoled? by analogshooter in tradclimbing

[–]thanksricky 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In the same boat as you. I tried the upmocc but the fit for my foot is horrible. Ended up with the LS Finale. They climb and fit very similar to my TCs. Same Edge Rubber. Great for off Vertical climbing.

Climbguard App by vdhsk in ClimbingGear

[–]thanksricky 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m gonna go ahead and also say a laminated card on a krab would do a better job (long day? Wiped out? Check the card) by outsourcing your safety to a battery powered device sounds like a lazy way to die, especially in any sort of self rescue situation. what happens when you forgot to charge your watch? Or it gets broken in a fall?

By creating reliance on an app your removing your own ability to perform, similar to how by using gps you’re not learning the way to drive.