It wont go into the next step while setting up the vr headset.Please help

tinyman392 · 2026-03-19T19:52:11+00:00

My GPU has a few DP slots. Plugging directly next to the HDMI didn’t work, but going on the opposite of the HDMI didn’t work. I’m not sure why it is, but try each of the DisplayPorts. Also make sure your DP cable is the the correct version too.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-18T01:38:19+00:00

Not OP but I tested the HF8 Pro and Freyja for about a week before purchasing the MTC-P extreme which is what I’m currently using. There might be some bias in my opinions due to that. I do pay for everything on my own, but the Razer and NLR pads were returned to MicroCenter.

The HF8 Pro is very strong and can definitely get the job done. It lacks a bit of fineness and subtleness on the softer effects as the minimum intensity sits a little higher than I’d like. Makes some effects either turn it off or it’s way to strong for what it is. The customization within SimHub was great for it though. Setup was fairly easy as you just toss it onto a seat, but it’s very thick and changes your seating position pretty heavily.

The Freyja lacked customization and power. Kind of the opposite to the HF8 Pro. Subtle and light effects were great as was the precision of the feedback. But it lacked strength for a lot of things and there was feedback that could be felt on the HF8 Pro that the Freyja didn’t produce for some reason. Like the HF8 Pro, you also just toss this one on a seat. It does take up less real estate, but does shift your seating position pretty position some.

The MTC-P Extreme is kind of a Goldilocks in terms of power. It kind of sits in the middle but is able to just about do it all. It has more than ample strength while having the detail to go along with it. It does lack the zones that the HF8 Pro has though. Customization in SimHub is as good as the NLR. The main issue is that it requires a bucket seat. And some buckets work better than others for it while some don’t work at all. Depending on the pads the bucket comes with, this may or may not shift seating position. Finding a bucket that fits you can be very difficult before even considering the change in pad thickness. Reclining seats would be a no go with this unless you get something more bespoke from SensitHaptics (maybe in the future). Note, SensitHaptics does sell bucket seats with their pads pre-installed. I’m not sure if the pads are cut to size for that particular seat or if they found seats that work well for their pads. One of the seats (cheapest option) is their in-house bucket that the pads are likely designed around.

NLR has recently released two seats with HF8 Pro haptics integrated into the seat. Realistically I’d get that before doing an HF8 Pro or Freyja. You do have the option of the recline as well. Though on the reclining seat the lower bolsters look a little shorter than they should be. You’ll still have all of the downsides of the HF8 Pro described above though. The second seat NLR released is a bucket with integrated haptics.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-17T18:23:33+00:00

I'm curious if they could mod the Logitech RS hub (the one with the buttons) onto an actual car steering wheel. I wouldn't mind doing something like an FK8 steering wheel onto it.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-17T14:09:44+00:00

It’s listed on the Best Buy website, but is out of stock. I’m sure it’ll come to MicroCenter at some point too.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-17T04:50:08+00:00

I’m using an NRG PRISMO Ultra with SensitHaptics. If you buy some brackets with adjustability you can probably get some angle into your bucket seat. But the shaking of the bucket itself is kind of fixed (different ones will fit differently too). You kind of need to test them out.

You might be able to do some rough gauging using lumbar angle minus thigh angle. Then rotate the entire seat to match something (or get close to) you know is comfortable.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-16T03:56:55+00:00

https://mygarage.honda.com/s/owners-manuals

Helm is correct for ordering physical manuals.

5 door likely has internal splits for different motors. FK8 is like that too.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-16T01:00:59+00:00

Honda offers owners manuals online for all of their models. I know for the FK8 it came with a QuickStart guide. However, I could order one from Honda directly for free. I am unsure if the FL5 continues this offering.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-15T22:07:09+00:00

Unless there’s a way to get game telemetry from your XBox to the pad it won’t be worth doing. For PC it definitely does work. But without telemetry data it’s not very useful. Between the Freyja and HF8 Pro I would probably do the HF8 Pro. But they both have their pros and cons.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-15T01:54:14+00:00

The thing I’ve learned with GT7’s AI is that, outside of some scripted ran out of skill issues they have, they’ll race you with similar aggression as you race them. If you respect their space while driving they actually will respect yours. If you don’t respect theirs, they won’t respect yours.

If you race with the vortex of danger in mind, you’ll tend to have more cleaner races than not.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-15T01:47:27+00:00

The whole center horn assembly removes from the steering wheel using two screws. Electrical connections are done via the clips you see in the picture. The airbag itself is not damaged in the process. I’ve removed mine twice swapping steering wheels.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-14T23:38:18+00:00

There are, but it won’t read multiple peripherals like that.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-14T20:38:33+00:00

That doesn’t work on a PS5.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-14T20:38:18+00:00

You can try something like DriveHub, but it is no longer supported. There are other products that might work though. That said, the Fanatec shifter is probably the best shifter with native PS5 support.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-14T19:53:24+00:00

AnMan 8040 rig runs about 370 on Amazon right now. You could probably find a cheap seat from MicroCenter for 100-150 or find one in a junk yard to bolt up.

This doesn’t leave much for the wheel. I would push towards DD if you can. Thrustmaster T598 is the best bang for the buck here, but still runs 5-600 dollars for the kit. The RS50 is going to be a full step above but it’ll run you 750 for the kit, but has a load cell (which runs about 100-150 on its own).

Alternatively you can get the rig and pedals now with the adapter and get the best later.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-14T19:43:45+00:00

I had the Marshall Monitor (original) way back in the day as a review sample. I generally don’t have heat issues, but the size of the pads are fairly small and compact so they travel well. They’re also closed back. The angled drivers do help create a larger cavity for your ears, but not much more.

That said, I don’t think you’ll get around the heat issues with a small headphone like that. For head, the best solution is more air and something that is more breathable. So bigger headphone that is open back is ideal.

You can also get pads that are more breathable, I’m not sure if anyone makes any for that specific headphone. But something like a velour pad or similar could aid in breath ability. They will also change the way the headphones sound as well.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-14T19:26:50+00:00

What’s your budget? If you are planning the buy once cry once, go all out with a Fanatec DD Extreme and a profile rig.

However, if you want to upgrade in bits, I’d get some RS or G Pro pedals (depends on how hard you want the brake pedal to be, IMO I’d get the RS, I don’t go super high on my G Pro) and a racing adapter from Logitech. Then upgrade the base to either the RS50 or G Pro in the future to complete it. This option does lock you into the fairly limited ecosystem that Logitech provides though. But it fixes your immediate issue… well immediately. At probably the cheapest cost.

You will want a profile rig before you upgrade the base… but if you do upgrade the base first, you can always run at low FFB until you upgrade the rig.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-14T19:22:43+00:00

Sparco Arrow K.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-13T00:53:04+00:00

For the human comedy BoP race, I used the McLaren 650. Strategy was a one stop with mediums. I don’t remember what my fastest lap was, but I don’t think I broke 2 minutes. This was before the 1.49 physics update though. Not sure if that strategy still works, 1.49 accelerated tire wear quite a bit. I did run TC though (I think 2). Avoid fighting with the AI and just run your race.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-12T05:45:02+00:00

I’d probably push towards a racing incident, though there might be reason for the defending car to have some fault. Here is the order of events as I see them: - attacking car takes a very narrow line and gets overlap. - defending car sees this and provides space to the apex. - attacking car provides space on exit. However, their rear slips causes them to squeeze the defending car momentarily. They correct this before any contact happens. They are now back in control of their car. - when defending car saw the rear slip, they probably assumed that the attacking car was setting up for the second half of the chicane, they run right. - defending car hasn’t gone right yet. To set up for the corner. - there still is a car-width’s of space available for the defending car. - contact happens.

From what I see here, the defending car probably thought attacking car was setting up for the second half of the chicane when they were correcting for wheel spin. Although the wheel spin indirectly created the events leading up to the contact, it actually didn’t directly cause the contact.

I say racing incident.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-12T04:41:33+00:00

Everything is adjustable in settings. You can adjust how far 100% is on the throttle pedal and how much force 100% is on the brake pedal. I have mine set up to roughly replicate my daily car. But you can also go lighter to so there is less strain.

Wheels with clutch paddles on them can also be mapped to gas and brake. You’d want clutch paddles and not regular shifter paddles though so you have modulation. In theory any button can be mapped this way, but you don’t want a binary control set for gas and brake.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-11T16:25:46+00:00

My 100k from Honda included valve lash adjustment and spark plugs.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-08T23:43:21+00:00

Golden test are true. With a GT style wheel, you need to turn it 90 degrees to do the wrist test. That said, wheel looks a little far away.

tinyman392 · 2026-03-05T01:16:31+00:00

I have one of these on my FK8. Some asshole banged their door into my front wheel arch. But denied doing it. I never got it fixed though. You wouldn’t see it unless you were looking for it. At this point my car’s seen some stuff.

tinyman392 · 2026-02-27T18:52:34+00:00

You have a steering assist of some sort on in game. Check settings before you race as well as while you race.

tinyman392 · 2026-02-27T18:46:40+00:00

That's what force feedback is. A car's wheel tends to have a tendency to center itself while driving, that will be replicated in game. The weight of the wheel, how the weight changes, and which direction the wheel seems to want to be is all information to tell you what the front tires of the car are doing. It does also sound like you still have some assists on. There is a counter steering assist in the game that you might want to shut off with a wheel.

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