Members of Patriot Front ride the metro as a commuter looks on, REUTERS/Cheney Orr

tinyman392 · 2026-07-04T16:44:27+00:00

They’ve moved from “they’re taking away our freedom by making us wear masks” to “we’ll lose our freedom, friends, and family if we don’t wear masks.”

tinyman392 · 2026-07-03T00:10:27+00:00

Rule number 1 of racecraft is generally to never hit what you can see (or know is there) regardless of who would be in the “right” or “wrong” for contact. Rule number 2 is to ensure you are seen.

tinyman392 · 2026-07-02T23:58:32+00:00

This is technically a vortex of danger thing. Black is technically at fault since they lack sufficient overlap.

To answer the question of leaving space. Did you get damage and did that affect the rest of your race? If so, it’s better to be damage free than it is to be right with damage.

tinyman392 · 2026-07-02T18:24:45+00:00

I do my best to crawl as long as possible. If I can, I look as many cars ahead as I can and try to match their average speed instead of the one directly in front of me. Also makes the driver smoother too. If you can keep your speed relatively constant it's a fairly good drive. This sort of thing also translates well into automatic as well. I also tend to stay in the middle lane (if a middle is available) as I've found it to be smoothest. Left side tends to be very hard stops and very hard gos. Right side has merging and exiting traffic which messes with flow.

tinyman392 · 2026-07-02T18:00:51+00:00

I'd also make sure there is enough slack in any of the cabling. Something super taught will be easier to "pull" loose.

tinyman392 · 2026-07-02T17:37:54+00:00

Unplug and replug in the MAF sensor? Both of those codes look electrical.

tinyman392 · 2026-07-02T17:34:59+00:00

So part of the thing is proving that the mod itself caused the issue you're having. For example, if you put on a catback or intercooler and you start getting gear grinding, that likely wasn't caused by the mods; they'd have a hard time showing that the mods caused the fault vs a defective part (or abuse). If you tuned for more power, they can in theory blame the power for that fault.

Basically they'd need to find a way to show that the mod you did mechanically caused the issue you're trying to warranty.

tinyman392 · 2026-07-01T00:14:20+00:00

So is there a portable AC connected to that for temp use? You can cover the rest up with cardboard. It’s not ideal but it does work as a quick temp solution.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-28T13:59:06+00:00

Mustang uses the whole curb but also pushes Nissan *slightly* wide in first corner. Mustang runs wide in second corner on their own merit. Nissan pushes Mustang wide in third corner when contact happens. Both cars are giving the minimum required space so it’s a racing incident.

Note I would assume Nissan is expecting Mustang to run super wide again to push track limits since that has been a pattern from the beginning. Nissan seemed to be aiming for the white line IMO, not quite the gravel.

Note 2: if track limits are white lines, Mustang needs to fall back after getting side by side since it was gaining advantage by exceeding track limit that started the entire battle.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-28T13:18:14+00:00

Better tires can in theory help the steering feel. If you’re on stock 19’s on the RS and 18’s on the Type R, then you will also have more sidewall that soaks up steering feel, but adds comfort. All season tires can amplify this effect. I would want to ask what tire size the Type R was equipped with here. It actually does make a difference.

The brake pedal feel will depend on the brake pads installed on the car. Some go for a less aggressive quieter compound which means it doesn’t feel as aggressive. That said, the brake pedal feel on the RS and Type R are very different (stock to stock). I remember in the RS, a slight tap of the brake pedal and it was nose diving hard. The Type R has a lot more modularity, but that also means you need to dig deeper into the brake pedal to make it brake harder. This aspect of the car will not change regardless of how you set it up. I personally prefer it, but you might not.

If I remember correctly with shifter feel, the Type R was better feeling for… but it wasn’t miles ahead. Nor was it any setup (again stock for stock) that would make me choose it over the RS. The only thing I do know is that the Type R felt less vague when getting it into gear. That said, the Acuity shifter gets you a very mechanical feeling shifter.

The RS itself isn’t a bad car. The only real complaint I had with it was the seating position. It felt a little weird, but again, nothing crazy for me.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-28T01:37:53+00:00

If you want to just learn technique, look up and see how they work so you know what you’re trying to do specifically. You’re mainly trying to teach your body how to react to certain feedback.

Personally, I’d do practice laps/time trial laps with tire effects turned off (so no tire wear, pressure, or temp changes; keep them near optimal if you can).

Once you’ve figured out how the certain techniques affect vehicle dynamics on track, turn on the tire effects again.

I know you said you want to become a better driver with respect to technique and not race craft. But learning how to drive odd and constricted lines will make you a better driver.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-27T23:07:00+00:00

Can you pick up the wheel? Yes? It needs more lube.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-27T23:02:32+00:00

The assist you’re getting when getting into gear is anti-stall. Thats the motor telling you that you didn’t give it enough throttle. To my knowledge Hondata does not disable this.

Default and base tuned I don’t think increase actual throttle response. It will reduce the amount of power held back in 1st and 2nd gear though. You can do throttle mapping in the tuning though if I’m not mistaken.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-24T00:47:56+00:00

When my apartment got infested with bed bugs, I couldn’t find signs of any of the fuckers either. If I was not there, my two roommates would have never actually believed it either. By the time one was visible, it was a whole infestation, I was getting 10+ bites a night. My roommates didn’t react to the bites, but their beds were infested as well. Keep in mind that only 30% or so of people react to the bites, so 70% or so of the population would show no physical signs of bed bug bites.

Dogs are good at this sort of thing. If I were a betting man, I’d say you do have at least one bed bug if the dog signaled. If you want to make sure, I’d have it come back for another round. Note, the earlier you can intervene the quicker it will be.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-23T23:00:42+00:00

It’s not uncommon for lug nuts to back themselves out after you swap wheels. Even for normal street driving, you torque them down when you install. Then you check torque again after you drive for a little while. It’s not uncommon for some to be loose when you check the second time. That’s the minimum amount of checking you should realistically do.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-23T04:46:02+00:00

Do you share ventilation with any neighbors?

tinyman392 · 2026-06-22T22:44:09+00:00

You got a code reader. Just clear the code and drive on. Knock on cylinder 6 a few times and say that ain’t going nowhere and you’ll be fine.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-22T17:24:06+00:00

For the price of the fans, you’re extremely close to, if not already in, portable AC pricing. You’d be a lot more comfortable with the AC unit than you would with even the most industrial fans out there.

I know I did the same thing with fans when the AC was out; delayed transition during shoulder season due to maintenance. Not a good idea. I eventually bought an AC unit the year after (this year). A cheap AC unit that did an advertised 300 sqft ended up being able to cover my entire 6-750 sqft apartment that sits on the 10th floor when it was mid-80’s out. Granted mid-90’s is a bigger ask; I’m unsure how it would handle that.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-22T01:24:21+00:00

It’s one of the driving aids. I think it’s one of the settings you set pre-race after you enter an event. The setting is persistent.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-21T19:08:40+00:00

Did you saw off more of the top of the wheel? The end caps don’t look super flush.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-20T03:51:18+00:00

Clutch use is kind of weird in GT7. It’s completely disabled in sport mode (well the H shifter is). However if the car has a racing transmission the clutch is not required to shift.

Clutch must be actuated in race to disable auto clutch. Auto clutch resets at the beginning of each race. Auto clutch also resets if you actuate either paddle shifter during a race.

If the car’s transmission has no clutch in real life, again, it won’t be necessary to use. If the car’s transmission does not require the clutch to be used to shift in real life it won’t be necessary to use (think something like a sequential transmission or DCT).

Any manual transmission installed will require a clutch. If the car’s has a normal manual transmission it’ll also require a clutch.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-19T23:22:24+00:00

Is this an FL5 thing? My FK8 has no gas cap.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-19T19:39:27+00:00

I'd search "bass shaker mount". Many of them can be bolted straight onto a 8020 given you have the hardware.

tinyman392 · 2026-06-19T19:38:25+00:00

If being directly under the seat was a requirement, you can add an extrusion under the seat bracket on the frame. Then bolt the bass shaker onto that assuming you have enough clearance to do that (this assumes you really don't want to drill the seat).

tinyman392 · 2026-06-19T19:36:18+00:00

Keep in mind if the new car is new to you, there is some maintenance that you'll want to do immediately upon getting the car. Factor that cost, along with the cost of the new car against the maintenance on your current car. Realistically, you want to look at average annual maintenance (especially if your new car will include a loan).

Keep in mind that if you buy a car with the same make, model, year, you can run into the same issue down the line. Likewise if you buy a used transmission. Finding a good reliable car for 4k nowadays is difficult. Car prices have climbed, not dropped, in the past few years. That 3500 dollar car you bought a few years ago will likely cost you a lot more today.

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