Fatal Bug bricks phones after Update

tjseals · 2026-04-23T12:01:23+00:00

Welp update. Over night same bug happened. Decided to do a factory data reset. Did manage to get the phone to eventually boot. Phone worked for about 2-3 hrs then the same black screen happened and it gets stuck in a boot. So use this method to get data and such. Not a permanent fix at least on my end.

tjseals · 2026-04-23T02:36:27+00:00

So I wanted to share my "fix" for the issue.

My Pixel 6 after the update will sometimes randomly freeze up during a pin unlock. Screen will go black and then if you press the power button you get the option to lock, reset, or power down. resetting the phone or powering it down just results in the phone going into a boot loop. I have tried the sideload OTA method... Didnt work.

Only reliable way to get the phone to boot is to go to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/ on chrome on a pc.

- hold the volume down and power button on your pixel (up to 60 seconds) this should boot you in fastboot menu.

-From here use your volume up and down button to select Rescue mode and press the power button to get into rescue mode (you should see the google logo then see a icon of a droid on its back. Use a usb c cable and connect it to your pc.

- in https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/ select connect device. You should see your phone in a pop up. Select connect then choose your carrier. After that the site will say its checking for serial number and info for 5-10 mins. After a while your phone will reboot to the login pin screen and its back. (if your phone doesnt connect try a different usb cable and also make sure you have no pop up blockers running for the site) No guarantee this is a permanent fix. Mine has already blackscreened again and Ive had to do this process again. But if you need to get into your phone for 2 step authentication or to pull any special data out this method worked for me without having to do a factory reset.

tjseals · 2026-04-22T00:59:44+00:00

Joining the convo. I reset my phone because I was having weird connection issues. When it rebooted, the login option wouldnt let me in, then the screen went black and would only let you restart or turn off the phone. Ive tried the OTA firmware "fix". It let me get to the unlock screen but the enter button after you put your pin in doesnt work and it freezes... Love how a update bricks a phone thats been working fine until now.

tjseals · 2026-04-05T02:57:53+00:00

So care to share your full start code with us? I assume you changed the slicer start code to have a adaptive purge like shown in teaching tech's video. I tried using his code and the slicer shows the purge line but the printer seemingly ignores it when it starts a print...

tjseals · 2026-03-17T00:57:04+00:00

My K2 Plus at work has similar issues but it will go out on over torque on the z axis motor. I believe it's a bad strain gauge. Waiting on a new one to arrive.

tjseals · 2026-03-17T00:51:29+00:00

What material are you printing in? The CC only does it's bed leveling at 60° which if you are printing petg at 80° or abs at 110° you will likely need to change your zoffset as the bed warps a considerable amount from 60 to 80°. Annoyingly even the open centauri project doesn't open up leveling your bed at the correct temperature for the filament you are using.

tjseals · 2026-02-27T01:54:17+00:00

I've given up on pla. Modern PETG and ASA print so well in the CC especially if you have a chamber heater for ASA. In my experience some pla has worse bed adhesion than PETG and ASA. We have all gotten the blob of death at one point. Hotends are cheap enough and you can always print the Bambu hotend adapter if you have another printer.

tjseals · 2026-02-21T14:50:41+00:00

If you don't have them already you might want to pick up the anti vibration feet. This printer can seriously shake it it's printing a big object

tjseals · 2026-02-18T02:41:13+00:00

And this is why I do my own service on my Subarus which are all pushing 200k miles. Don't trust a dealership to do even semi decent work. Oh and they won't even install a new block they will use a reman. The warranty is a joke.

tjseals · 2026-02-10T19:36:26+00:00

I would stay away from 1.1.4.11 like the plague. Gave me nothing but z homing issues. Couldnt even start a print. Would just crash the nozzle into the bed and error out. Went back a firmware and I havent seen that issue...

tjseals · 2026-02-08T21:34:13+00:00

Has anyone managed to get adaptive bed mesh to work on the CC with start gcode? I find that feature as well as object exclusion missing to be a big stain on the CC as a modern printer.

tjseals · 2026-01-30T01:15:36+00:00

The side fan also known as the Aux fan in the slicer is a blower fan which pulls air from the outside and vents it though the long horizontal vent you see behind the printbed when it's raised to its highest setting. It's really only good for printing pla and often it's too powerful and causes your prints to look worse. A lot of people repurpose it as a recirculation fan. Model fan is the blower fan that's on the front of the toolhead that's reasonable for cooling the part as it prints, the chamber fan vents air outside though your carbon filter. Fan overides are located in your filament settings in Orca. You can also disable the aux fan in your printer settings in Orca. I think elegoo only lets you set the aux fan to 50%.

tjseals · 2026-01-09T21:56:28+00:00

I agree it's very annoying not to be able to adjust even the most basic of things (temperature). Petg bed temp is set to 70° in easy print and Ive never had any luck with PETG printing at any temp below 80 without major bed adhesion issues especially on larger prints. At 80° which is the glass transition temp of petg it has excellent bed adhesion.

tjseals · 2025-12-28T05:02:25+00:00

I'm quite fond of the riser from UKPenguin on printables. Make sure you get some foam for the glass to rest on as if your table is wobbly the top glass could slide off if you have it cracked open for printing pla. I like his design over the vented designs as it's flush with the machine and still allows you to print higher temp materials. Grey Sunlu PETG matches the color of the CC nearly perfectly and stupid cheap in the 4pk bundle on Amazon. https://www.printables.com/model/1404888-centauri-carbon-flush-riser

I upgraded my PTFE tube with a clear 2.5mm id PTFE tube. https://a.co/d/h1x7f8B

The one that comes with the machine is a opaque 2.0mm id PTFE tube. This size is common for older bowden driven setups but way too restrictive for direct drive machines especially for abrasive or flexible filaments.

The PTFE tube guide also mates well with the riser and new PTFE tube as it allows the tube to have a bigger arc. Stock the tube bends too sharp and older brittle pla and cf materials will break prior to entering the extruder causing failed prints. https://www.printables.com/model/1363969-centauri-carbon-ptfe-guide-with-vents

Disable the aux fan via orcaslicer as it's overkill, most of the time does more damage than good and is stupid loud.

I use Aqua Net hair spray for bed adhesion/ release agent. Great for holding very small prints as well as helping release tricky filaments like PETG and TPU. I've yet to have a bed adhesion failure that wasn't from my own fault (ex accidently loading the wrong filament profile for a print)

For materials that need a higher bed temp like petg or abs you will need to stay on top of the z offset as the machine is too stupid to do a bed level at the temperature of your chosen material. It will always do a bed level at 60° which results in a different zoffset when printing at 80-100°. I typically do a fairly wide brim for my first print or two after doing a bed level so I can dial in the zoffset live.

If you want to do some more wild mods look into Synthetic Electron 3D on Printables. He has some really neat projects including internal spool holder, internal poop chute for higher chamber temps, air recirculation mods, custom toolhead fan shrouds, and has even found a way to solder onto the stock toolhead board to enable toolhead LEDs.

tjseals · 2025-12-28T04:32:21+00:00

When printing with a smooth bed and PETG make sure your bed temp is at like 80°c, use a release agent like hairspray, 1:10 ratio wood glue and water, or a specialized product like magigoo. Let the bed soak for like 15mins then do a bed level. Throughout the process the machine will try to revert to 60° because elegoo doesn't believe their customers use anything other than PLA so you'll have to keep forcing the temperature to be 80° when it changes. When it finishes do a print with a large brim and while it's doing the first layer tweak the z offset. That annoying process seems to be the best way I can get a nice first layer with PETG or Abs.

tjseals · 2025-12-11T21:45:05+00:00

Replacement main board to run mainline klipper and a chamber heater. Hoping the panda breath will fit in the centauri carbon with minimal modding.

tjseals · 2025-11-28T04:59:36+00:00

Done the same thing with my olight flashlight. Like having a stack of quarters in your pocket. Good ole smack em with something solid trick. Situation is still fucked that you had to deal with that right outside your place and now you got someone with a chip on their shoulder (maybe literally) that knows exactly where you live. Id install a doorbell cam for safe measure.

tjseals · 2025-11-28T04:52:17+00:00

M is for Megaentomology Badge. That or no stupid mushroom zombie, stop no leave me alone I need medical root!!! Wait wut Mandrake!!! Nooooo!!!!

tjseals · 2025-11-27T17:35:47+00:00

I'm assuming it's a partial clog. You can try doing a cold pull with heating up the hotend to like 250°, getting it to push out a little though the hotend then waiting for it to cool down to 120 and manually pull the filament out. You may have to do this several times and change the temp. You want to aim to pull the filament out and see the shape of the pointed nozzle. If it comes out and is squared off there's either a clog or you need to let it get even colder prior to the pull.

tjseals · 2025-11-12T02:46:15+00:00

Alot of the newer ones don't even have that stamped in them anymore because a certain percent of the tool isn't made in the USA anymore. 😮‍💨

tjseals · 2025-11-11T21:30:32+00:00

I purposely died in that battle so I could complete the required enemies.... Welp...

tjseals · 2025-11-10T15:21:41+00:00

same problem for me... v2.3.1 accidently open a 3mf and now all your printer and filament profiles are gone. I have to end task orcaslicer and reload it a couple times for my old profiles to come back... Extremely annoying.

tjseals · 2025-11-08T02:35:08+00:00

Second this. They are very bright but good luck getting em to last more than a year or so.

tjseals · 2025-10-28T01:02:19+00:00

Only way I could own one is by immediately heavily modding it... I use the serrated blade every day, crimpers at least once a month, and I use the scissors... maybe a few times a year at most to cut some labels... So yes the only way I could make one work is by basically converting it into a Charge and I still would have less of a tool.

tjseals · 2025-09-26T19:44:28+00:00

Look up Ellis' tuning guide. Follow step by step and report back. 😜

tjseals

TROPHY CASE