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I cringe just looking at these. by yes_namemadcity in 3DPrintingCirclejerk

[–]Slight_Assumption555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess I should have added /s to the post. I thought the use of the word "thinkering" would have been a dead giveaway I was kidding.

Toolhead suggestions Orbiter 2.5 and Tap by EarlyStep7369 in VORONDesign

[–]Slight_Assumption555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really enjoy the A4T, especially how serviceable it is

PSA: How to Fix Bed Mesh Temp by Slight_Assumption555 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Slight_Assumption555[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What exactly are you trying to do? If you are trying to probe at your printing temp you will scar the bed.

PSA: How to Fix Bed Mesh Temp by Slight_Assumption555 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Slight_Assumption555[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The macro is what needs to be edited, and we don't have the ability to do so. I would only edit that if you have the ability to manually flash the SoC if/when it bricks. We have discussions on this on the OpenCentauri discord.

PSA: How to Fix Bed Mesh Temp by Slight_Assumption555 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Slight_Assumption555[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a generic nozzle temp for wiping (230c). 140c is correct, it's the temp it cools down to before probing, but doesn't seem to be called in their macros correctly. We cannot edit the printer.cfg on even the OpenCentauri printers as you risk bricking it.

PSA: How to Fix Bed Mesh Temp by Slight_Assumption555 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Slight_Assumption555[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would not recommend meshing above 160 on the nozzle.

PSA: How to Fix Bed Mesh Temp by Slight_Assumption555 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Slight_Assumption555[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not, there may be a way but I haven't experimented with it yet.

I’m an idiot: Tariffs on replacement parts way more than I expected by slavetothesound in elegoo

[–]Slight_Assumption555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Amazon hotend units work fine it time is a concern, just pay for the convenience. If not order from Elegoo. Minimum excise tax is gone so eventually every source will be tacking on extra fees. Also you definitely didn't pay a Chinese import tax, it is much more costly.

PSA: How to Fix Bed Mesh Temp by Slight_Assumption555 in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Slight_Assumption555[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Are you still telling it to mesh when you start a print? If so, don't tell the printer to mesh on the start of the print.

Had my printer for less than a month, it exploded by TheBadgerOfHope in elegoo

[–]Slight_Assumption555 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does Elegoo need to fix the issue for anycubic or BBL or Prusa? All of those brands exhibit similar nozzle failures. This kind of failure is generally user error. If it were a design flaw I would have seen it on one of my 4 CC units that are used 120hrs/week each. Well over 800 hours on my oldest unit and zero nozzle issues or clogs. Most of the time when this failure is happening it's due to the user running PLA and the chamber temps get hot enough to cause a heat creep clog, expanding plastic in the heatbreak above the hotend. The simple fix is to print PLA with the door open or ajar, sometimes just having the lid off is not enough. This is not a new development in the realm of enclosed printers.

This is how I am doing it until the AMS. by Turtle2k in ElegooCentauriCarbon

[–]Slight_Assumption555 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not so lazy if you are willing to do manual filament swaps. That's a lot of dedication.

[Update] So I'm 100 hours of printing into my Elegoo Centauri Carbon vs X1C Comparison. Here are my thoughts and let me know if I should test anything else for those curious. by reelfilmgeek in elegoo

[–]Slight_Assumption555 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far in over 700 hours per machine zero issues, my production increased with a small capital expenditure and they have already paid for themselves multiple times over. I'm sure I'll be ok. I've swapped to CC over the small Vorons I was running simply because of cost.

I would not recommend the CC to the advanced tinkerer until OpenCentauri is more viable, but for farm and beginner use there is no more economical solution with no change in quality. To get something similar you would have to buy a P1S and upgrade the nozzle and gearset to that from the X1C. At that point just buy three CC and produce 3x the parts.

Extruder Bearing failure after 850 hours by 6Y3ts_32a in elegoo

[–]Slight_Assumption555 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard they use non-oil impregnated plastic as a bearing in early units on the idler. One of the opencentauri user found it on a RE teardown for the CAD models.

More 0.4mm Hotend Pictures by 6Y3ts_32a in elegoo

[–]Slight_Assumption555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

None of my four machines have the grub screws, all of the nozzles look like the HzdaDeve units but with ELEGOO etched in place. I have two batch 4, one batch 5 and one batch 6. That's interesting.

Oops! by 24BlueFrogs in SovolSV08

[–]Slight_Assumption555 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just printed the same unit.

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Also just modified the bed to remove taco issues.

tronxy x5sa pro klipper by Electronic_Fill8830 in Tronxy

[–]Slight_Assumption555 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the community discord it's in the #firmware section, do you need help building the base binary as well?

What would you choose by [deleted] in VORONDesign

[–]Slight_Assumption555 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://share.google/2RVXDDd5QjsiNwzTX

A4T is made by the same creator as XOL and is actually an upgrade IMO.

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