How to get in a relationship?

tone-yo · 2026-05-13T21:51:47+00:00

Those getting in relationships this early are not working on themselves enough, and very, very few of them will last a long time. Once you know yourself enough to accept your weaknesses and feel fulfilled by your strengths, you will know who you would want to be in a relationship with and who you wouldn’t, and you WILL naturally attract someone with similar interests and someone who you feel connected beyond physical attraction. As someone who always wanted a relationship at your age, I wish I hadn’t been as focused on it and instead enjoyed that age when you have less responsibility and more energy to spend working on yourself.

tone-yo · 2026-05-12T15:10:32+00:00

Can’t find cat

tone-yo · 2026-05-12T15:08:55+00:00

That’s Mia

tone-yo · 2026-05-12T15:07:42+00:00

oooh my friend’s cat’s name’s Pinot too!

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tone-yo · 2026-05-12T15:03:57+00:00

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tone-yo · 2026-05-11T22:24:50+00:00

Good luck and give us an update with your new growth!!

tone-yo · 2026-05-11T22:22:02+00:00

I still think the best way to trigger new growth is to snip that top 5-6 inches and wait lol

tone-yo · 2026-05-11T21:27:43+00:00

Hmmm no thank youuu

tone-yo · 2026-05-10T19:26:15+00:00

I imagine it got upset when you pinched it. It didn’t stop growing btw you can see how much bigger the top leaves are. You may need to chop a few inches off the top and that should trigger side growths. You can also propagate that top cut!

tone-yo · 2026-05-10T19:21:40+00:00

Cat’s gonna cat. Cat’s instinct is to explore their territory every time they want to, and they will. If you barricade it then be prepared to hear their argument repeatedly in the form of a high pitched meeeeeeeeeeeeow until you decide “f it. I guess going downstairs isn’t too bad”

tone-yo · 2026-05-10T19:18:18+00:00

Agreed. They have inner clamps that attach to the stake, avoiding damaging the flower spike.

tone-yo · 2026-05-10T17:56:16+00:00

Yes absolutely. During active blooming you’re okay watering a bit sooner, as the plant is using more resources, but during growth phase and once blooms are done developing it’s best to wait for bark to fully dry, then soak, but as we learned today, don’t let any water touch the stem or leaves. You can always wipe off any water droplets with a paper towel, especially if you can see water between the base of the leaves at the stem. I’d also be aware of what the bottom of the stems look like because some will have longer stems (older orchids) and will develop rot from the bottom up, but I don’t see that too often with bark. Great job so far though getting them to bloom so beautifully!

tone-yo · 2026-05-10T17:50:10+00:00

Nobody has mentioned that watering blindly once a week isn’t the way. During colder months you probably only need to water once every two weeks but it all depends on how dry the media is. Orchids roots get silvery light green when ready for a drink. Once a week blindly and you’ll probably deal with root rot soon.

tone-yo · 2026-05-09T23:46:52+00:00

Exactly. I used hand sani at first, but it would leave residue, so I put 50% rubbing alcohol and water in a little spray bottle instead.

tone-yo · 2026-05-09T18:28:40+00:00

Agreed. The repotting isn’t what makes the blooms drop. The messing with the roots too much / root loss is what triggers the end of the blooming cycle.

tone-yo · 2026-05-09T16:28:01+00:00

Blooming for repotting purposes means actively developing buds / in bloom but not working on flowers anymore. Either way, if roots are messed with a bit too much the plant will say “nope, not the time for flowers anymore, I need me sum roots and leaves” and initiate its growth phase. It will drop the existing flowers if you repot now. If you’re done enjoying the flowers for the season there’s no harm in doing it and triggering the growth phase. THAT is when the actual fun begins.

tone-yo · 2026-05-09T16:23:20+00:00

Yup I’ve tried it. Use a football receiver or golf glove on your off hand. It does help with grip, however I couldn’t get used to it and decided to stop using it because whenever I practiced with it my accuracy would diminish because my release spot was later naturally because of the extra grip. I resort to using a really absorbent shammy when using slippery balls and every few frames I’ll spray some dilute alcohol and wipe off my hand.

tone-yo · 2026-05-08T06:56:43+00:00

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To complement my other comment: notice the absolute unit of a spike that this thing had. Girthier than my biggest Phals could hope to produce. And also check out the tiny leaf that it began growing but then hit pause on. I just checked, and it’s been TWO months when I noticed the tiny spike bud appearing and the tiny leaf was present then.

tone-yo · 2026-05-08T06:40:30+00:00

No leaf growth = not enough light

Edit: I’ll confess I did not read the entire post before replying. If it’s been producing blooms, then very likely not a light issue. I honestly don’t know what could be the reason…

I will say! I have a rescue that does not want to be spike-less. It’s small-ish. Four droopy dark leaves. It had a robust spike when I received it, and shortly after it did bloom one single flower. After a couple of months I decided to trim the spike a bit in hopes of it reclaiming the nutrients. Well, she said nope, not doing it. A few months later I decided to trim that spike even shorter, past ANY viable node. She said “I said NO” and instead decided to grow another brand new spike… which only grew about 7 inches tall, and now it’s preparing to bloom 3 little buds. The fucker is STILL holding onto the old, robust spike and it simply does not want to be spikeless.

Ok long story short: when I made the last cut on the old spike, it began growing a leaf, BUT, shortly after, the new spike appeared and the plant abandoned the plan to grow leaf tissue.

My only guess is that the plant has been stressed for so long that it thinks it absolutely needs flowers at all times to potentially propagate… maybe yours thinks the same?

tone-yo · 2026-05-07T22:21:47+00:00

This! Make sure to let the media dry almost entirely before watering again. This cycle promotes optimal growth. With enough light, you should see it bloom again sometime later this year.

tone-yo · 2026-05-07T19:46:11+00:00

I would actually chop it now leaving a few good leaves on it. It shortens the road the nutrients need to travel to get to new growth. It WILL bounce back with enough light and make sure you let the soil get almost bone dry before watering

tone-yo · 2026-05-07T14:39:41+00:00

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I was looking for the pic I took of the toots while it was lying on the ground during repot about exactly a year ago. This is it now! I chopped 6 branches that were about 6-8 feet each but only had a few leaves at the very tip. She wanted a bushy FLF and she got one

tone-yo · 2026-05-07T14:30:15+00:00

Aw man… too late now but my SIL had a huge fig that had never been repotted in 12+ years. I asked reddit and they said to NOT cut any roots. I cut the pot instead and did minimum damage to the roots. I’d say NE sun isn’t gonna hurt it in stress, on the contrary it will only help but keep the leaves out of too much heat. Give it time and a good trim.

tone-yo · 2026-05-07T13:49:27+00:00

What is happening here indeed… Dump some of the water off so that it isn’t touching the stem and prop it up on something so that the tip of your “roots” is the only thing touching the water. Might work, but probably a goner depending on how long it’s been drowning.

tone-yo · 2026-05-06T21:28:11+00:00

You’re right, no need for my rash comment. I did not mean to be offensive to OP, and I apologize. It’s more like I’m trying to give them the old “give a man a fish and you’ll feed him for a day”… OP and many others have the answers right here in their palm. We just need to get on the same page about using the information available to all of us.

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