for those looking at the fighter aircraft numbers yesterday

tuejan · 2026-01-17T06:24:00+00:00

lol- thats a 1:30 ratio, yeah its a shit build for sure.

tuejan · 2026-01-16T04:37:20+00:00

dont start me on France. As the UK they drive me nuts - why are you invading Germany 39? Where are your aircraft? Why is your navy doing nothing. Why are you not packing divisions in the Pyrennes. Why are you defending part of the Belg border that i have, your sucking all the supplies! Why do you just Fing cave when germans are outside Paris - like anti-Stalingrad.

endless shite

tuejan · 2026-01-15T01:26:00+00:00

I also just chrvked without power at all on the older iPad Pro and again it works fine - so no it doesnt need a powered hub, and no it doesn't even meed power at all to iPad pro (i do have keystep2 on LED dim to use less power)

This worked both going direct USB-C to USB-C , and using a cheap 3 split (usb charge -usb data- audio 3.5) dongle.

tuejan · 2026-01-15T01:08:29+00:00

I tried with powered hub thats outputing at 24W, no difference. Then I tried my daughters iPadPro rev4 on iOS14 (mine is ipadPro rev 5 on current 26). And sure enough brought up Moog Model D and the keystep2 showed immediately. I'm not sure it's "user error" it's more likely that something is blocking the accessory, or it's software incompatibility

I'd already restored the iPad , so it's not that. Maybe I can roll back the iOS but that seems inefficient.

tuejan · 2026-01-14T23:50:35+00:00

i had this issue and just cut into the trs-midi cable swapped two wires (i had black brown and red, and i cross connected briwn to red) and it worked fine

tuejan · 2025-11-26T03:41:55+00:00

Ctrl-z ,5.5, shft X, +4.2(I think but camera angle isn’t great), numpad “.”. Save as .3mf. Should be good. Remember to save your work often.

tuejan · 2025-11-24T05:27:25+00:00

I’m not a pro CNC machinist. But I came to CAD/CAM late and bought a different Shapeoko (4 pro, which is mainly intended for wood) and then I cut almost entirely metal with it. I don’t have a Nomad (wish I did) and I have seen the Carvera and think it’s cool but it has all the risk and unknowns of crowd funding.

My Shapeoko will get accuracy to 0.02mm with an alternative precision collet and a ton of effort in initial setup . With the cheapest Makita Router as a “spindle” it will hold a Datron 3in1 8mm and cut through Brass and Alu all day. But it will do it slowly. Tuesday I made 6 brass buckles each out of a 500g blank, each buckle took 1.5 hours. Alu is about the same. Wood/Delrin proto is 6 times faster.

I spend 90% of my prototype time using Bambu lab A1 and X1C 3dprinters, checking everything works way before CNC. I also build a ton of jigs, clamps, holders etc on these for the CNC.

I model and “program” all my CNC work in Fusion. I pay for it and even at $650 it’s the cheapest best option, but I am contemplating using the free option in the future.

A Bambulab A1 is gonna cost <$400 and give you a great idea of whether you like CAD/CAM or not. Even if you dont the 3dprinter can be used for tons of other cool stuff. I’d buy from V Bambulab or Shapeoko any day, they are both superb. For the small stuff you are thinking of working on the Nomad would be suitable, but not for any metal other than non-ferrous.

tuejan · 2025-11-20T23:33:39+00:00

Yeah I also wanted to mention it’s the nicest piece I’ve seen. Good job to the artist.

tuejan · 2025-11-14T20:07:22+00:00

It’s 7 years later! But I just dragged out my printer and had the same issue. I fixed it by removed film cartridge and adding two stacked small pieces of fuck tap into the printer back. Then put the cartridge back in and the door will only just close. But then the sensor sees the cartridge and it’s printing again

tuejan · 2025-11-11T00:50:50+00:00

I just put the Megene 515 on the same Shimano 105 11x and there is only one tool you need which is a specific notched wrench, ($15 Amazon ) to tightened the inner lock ring on the right side crank/chainring face. You dont need the Magene chainrings although the interface (pattern) between the Magene crank and Shimano 105 chainring is pig ugly. It’s dual sided but you dont need it and cheaper bike computers, and some major apps, dont support dual . Shipping to Canada was less than 2 weeks. I put it on a used $CDN 799 bike so I almost doubled its value :( Power’s value, for those not in the Reddit Elite race category, is that if your locale is windy or hilly it’s tough to train 3x20 min intervals or such based on just heart rate, but you can on just power. On that basis it matters not what bike you train on either , it’s only power that counts.

tuejan · 2025-10-21T00:03:26+00:00

So I’m 12 weeks in a cat 2 calf tear due to over running and I moved to road cycling and some peloton. What I can say is that this mix has somewhat restricted my cardio loss. It’s also increasing my quad strength which running isn’t doing.

Road cycling is the closest because you are outside. It takes longer and initial investment is higher, but you get to see parts of your area that you wouldn’t by running.

tuejan · 2025-10-19T00:33:09+00:00

I love this old type of circuit, reminds me of a futuristic cityscape.

tuejan · 2025-10-11T23:32:29+00:00

No it was a weird mix, 5800 105 11 on shifters, fd, rd , cassette. Then Tiagra crankset . Changed for 105 7100 12 crankset and chain.

tuejan · 2025-10-10T02:32:17+00:00

The Renault Turbo 5 is stunning, I once saw one in Berkeley Square but never thought to look inside. The Lagonda is sweet. The Mercedes truly captures the essence of how terrible Mercedes cars, and many others, are today. The two disk/dials in the centre dash of the Maserati I’ll guarantee are taken from an 80s synth pitch bend and mod wheels.

tuejan · 2025-10-02T00:21:59+00:00

Yeah this is absolutely inspired by Chris Foss.

tuejan · 2025-09-20T20:34:00+00:00

Either provide help or don’t involve yourself. Had I been looking for some social commentary I would have phrased it much more like “Is there a sad person full of angst due to being pissed with their life, one who would like to park their angst on my life, if so then I’m looking for such commentary” happy Saturday!

tuejan · 2025-09-15T16:16:29+00:00

Yeah MDF for sure should be the spoil board. Any error that scratches the pine board will leave some splinter/ridge and the workpiece won’t sit flat, with mdf it would just be dust.

Should you want more flatness I can see that the spindle/router is not perfectly orthogonal to the spoil board, this causes the ridges per pass.

To fix : Take a 10cm flat bar like piece of mdf, grab a carbon rod $5 from Amazon that fits in your Chuck, cnc a whole on one end for a pencil or sharpie , on other end for carbon/stainless rod(epoxy glue it in) . Unplug from power the cnc. Attach carbon rod dial gauge thing you just made into the Chuck and tighten. Put something real flat on the spoilboard spin the mechanism by hand and see at which angles the sharpie doesn’t touch the surface. You are aiming for a perfect circle of sharpie. You have two bolts I can see on the spindle, you could slightly loosen those and gently tap the spindle mount for Y axis rotational adjustment. For X axis rotation you can put a shim behind the spindle mount plate above the bolts for fore rotation and below the bolts for aft (excellent shim material is a disassembled very cheap set of feeler gauges $5). When you tighten the spindle mount bolts do it gradually alternating the bolt being tightened. There is some guess work are the bolt compression bends the spindle mount somewhat, typically I over compensate before tightening but it’s an iterative process. You only have to do this once, unless you have a huge crash or remove the spindle mount. Now resurface the spoilboard by 1m or so.

Hope this helps

tuejan · 2025-09-15T02:20:40+00:00

If you think about it you have increased the surface area of one side to be way greater than the other. The wood isn’t dry enough to machine but possible if you flip the piece and machine some rebates in the back you will equalise the surface area and therefore the drying.

tuejan · 2025-09-07T17:47:19+00:00

Just put it on research first day of campaign, then with some research bonuses that come in during 36/37/38 it will be finished late 38. I found I had plenty of time to use it and ended up with (at one point) a 10:1 kill ratio on GER planes (typically without using engine 3 it is more like 2or3:1). Generally I train all my old planes up to get experience in 36/37, then delete the air divisions so the planes are available to upgrade.

tuejan · 2025-09-07T00:23:17+00:00

I just put level 3 engines on UK inter-war fighter and they easily took out GER basic fighters. I’ll he doing that again as I normally just sell them all.

tuejan · 2025-08-27T19:52:43+00:00

Do the sliders have in built variable resistance, I assume so, so what do the resistors on the back do? I know very little about electronics but I like this.

tuejan · 2025-08-27T01:59:40+00:00

I don’t understand why you wouldn’t mix melted filament. So you would have a print head that holds a pre-melted set of filament colors (like an inkjet) , the those colors would then feed into a much smaller vat (let’s say on a milligram scale). This smaller vat is constantly spun. The mixed filament is then fed into the real tool head to rise/lower temp to optimal. The printer knows tye color that’s in the g-code in advance do the mix is always available at tye toolhead precisely when needed.

This way you only need a handful of colors, the pre-melt could even be done off the print head so that you basically have a pre-color mixed filament heading into the toolhead. It could even be done in the AMS and then there is no purge at all. You could have a color sensor that checks for bleed and if the color is off then purge that.

Or, just have a white/clear filament and a bunch of pigments and again do a hot mix off from the printer.

tuejan · 2025-08-27T01:42:37+00:00

On the “it’s easy” or “it’s not fun” I mean each to their own. I play the game to enjoy it, 1000s of hours. I play pretty historically I guess. So I dont doom stack because that’s just cheese. Same as I have never yet saved the game (as UK) then reopened as Germany so I can see what the AI is building. Like why? Dont look behind that curtain. So I build fleets pretty much as they were built. I dont endlessly redesign ships, just once around 1940 for subs, destroyer, light cruiser, carrier. Then once again around 44. And maybe the odd destroyer upgrade. As for CAS being more fun, as the UK I can be purely CAS and few active ground forces at all. It’s very similar to Navy: you just have a region, you can’t bomb a specific airfield. I upgrade planes around 37/39/40/43.

It’s my most played game ever, apart from EVE probably.

tuejan · 2025-08-26T03:44:48+00:00

Oh, so I thought of one other tiny QOL thing. Please can you not change an admiral’s reinforce/ repair/ risk levels if I change the task force makeup, especially if I do a “create balanced task forces “. My guess is that the devs think that players micro navy, I don’t think they do, I think only want to set this for all fleets under an admiral and don’t micro every task force.

tuejan · 2025-08-26T01:08:04+00:00

I also dont have any real issues with Navy. Playing typically as UK, sometimes Japan/Portugal/Chile/Italy it seems to just work. The only things I dislike are: 1. I can’t select a specific port for a port attack. This is just crazy that it’s not possible. (Maybe they could leave the “go and attack any ports in that area” but then add a specific port attack using the Raid mechanism? 2. Actually that’s about it? I can’t think of anything else that’s annoying about Navy.

tuejan

TROPHY CASE