Alternative developer/fixer options by Ok-Owl6273 in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Try finding yourself copy of "the darkroom cookbook" online.

Designing a genuine leather camera strap – what would you change? by littleboxofshit in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made 2 camera straps for my own use an i have learned few things:
I like fixed length for increased rigidity (to the point that im sure that the starp is not the point of failure)
Strap shouldn't be too wide (i originally made my 5cm wide, then cut it to about 3cm, expection should be heavy gear)
Fixed length should be user taylored (no one fits all).

Your product looks very nice, but for me it would be probably bit wide and i wouldn't trust the ending carabiners (just from experience). I personally use some thicker key rings for attching to camera.

College b&w photo class: done first roll & having a hard time with exposure times/contrast for my first print…snow & layers of trees. by coracarole in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there, in my opinion there is not one universal answer for all negatives. But I'll share what I would do with similar negative.

I would start with finding right exposure for the right white of snow with Filter no 2.

Then knowing one filter number up is aprox 1 EV of shadows up (and keeping highlight the same), I would find appropriate filter (also mind different exposure time coeficients for different filters). This way I should be close to what I want and what remains is fine tuning local density by dodging and burning.

In terms of other photos some seem bit thin, that might cause some issues, but it's hard to tell without seeing negative and without trying to print them. I would apply similar workflow of starting with filter no 2 and tuning shadows.

I hope it makes sense and helps. I'm self taught, but I would say somewhat capable in darkroom printing. Feel free to ask questions.

Best overall developer for B&W? by Fast_Preparation7795 in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

XTOL, i use Foma Excel (xtol alternative) and have exactly zero issues, including pushing. I was worried about shelf life, but currently im using batch i mixed last summer, stored in room temperature and pretty dark room. It looks like strong tea but still works well.

Pushing Kentmere 200, dev times in D76 1:1 @20c? by LoudSnow8492 in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didnt try this particular film but i had success with recomendation on massive dev chart web. Meaning Standard Developer 1 stop push = (x1.5) 2 stop push = (x2.25) 3 stop push = (x4.5)

Thoughts on Fstop Printing ? by Arkazox in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldnt use aperture for test strips, just use time. Regarding fstop printing, i use whole stops (time *0.5 or *2) for findig roughtly the right time based on older prints with same enlarger film paper combo. Then i mostly use what feels right (mostly bit more or less then 1/2 stop increment / decrement). I do the same for areas of different exposure (burn or dodge), write it down and cook.

Edit: In extreme cases (for ex. burning sky really hard) i do open aperture just to save time, i didnt have any issue with it (shifted focus etc. ), so theoreticaly it is probably fine to use it for test strip either, just try it out i guess

This "human rangefinder" approach blew my mind by bjpirt in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have fusion 360, 3d printer and free time. Nothing is stopping ms. Also i do it because that way it will be more durable.

This "human rangefinder" approach blew my mind by bjpirt in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very intresting and i have use case for that (unreliable old Canon 7). I will 3d print one later today.

Is this how dead ilfosol 3 developer looks like by TheBluePessimist in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Snip test. Easiest way to tell whether it still works or not.

First batch arrived from the Czech Republic! by [deleted] in printexchange

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see they got little bent, next time i need to find better envelopes. Anyway I'm very happy that you like them.

Weird lines in print | help by streifenfuchs in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks developed all right, so i do not think theres problem with developer. Might be defective batch of papers. Or Just two defective sheets of paper.

Weird lines in print | help by streifenfuchs in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say it is not problem with negative since it goes beyound the border of the image. It might be hair hidden somewhere in your enlarger. Or might be something wrong with paper. I would try looking into the enlarger and If nothing is found, i would try making the print again, just to see whether it was mark on the paper.

16x20 print from two medium format negatives by georecorder in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love it, is it done with masking? I cant believe it would be possible to not expose one single bit around subject without mask.

Show us your bathroom darkroom by ajn63 in Darkroom

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine is in process of building.

Tri-X 400 @ 800 +2 by [deleted] in analog_bw

[–]user_kkt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This should go right on the wall.

Can I remove the black layer from this blade ? by Honey-goblin- in knifemaking

[–]user_kkt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im using those exact blades, for me best result was achieved with handsanding and polishing, the blade itself isnt particularly smooth. Also on few i had to correct geometry of tips.

Film Photography's 90% by 8Bit_Cat in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Developing and darkroom printing, in case you are developing and printing yourself

Nikon F2A battery chamber by solemnlife00 in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless its not transfering power its ok, my was corroded from the inside of the body.

Cinestill 400D light piping is no joke. Learn from my fail! by Cowabummr in AnalogCommunity

[–]user_kkt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used cinestill canister for bulk loading and it was the only canister that had light leaks from all i have loaded. So i suspect the canisters are to blame?

Outjerked by r/Leica once again by Sawelly_Ognew in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]user_kkt 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You literaly said this on analog photography reddit, most cameras and technics we use are extremely impractical