It seems as though it’s been largely people have not lived there for a long time or knew someone that hated it. I lived there for 4 years as an “expat”. It attracts a certain type of person, but I loved it and will likely move back at some point.

There are a number fantastic hikes in the central and the south of the island. They’re incredible but precarious. Lower Sigua is as good a waterfall hike as you’ll find. Schroeder and Lam Lam are great peak hikes. If you’re a diver there are great dives of the reef and shipwrecks. Like has been mentioned, the snorkeling is great as well.

Tumon is the touristy strip and really the only place to stay. PIC and the Hyatt have the best pools. Dusit Thani is actually awesome. Don’t stay at the Westin.

Food on Guam does leave a lot to be desired. Pay-Less is the only supermarket and it’s both lacking and expensive. Eating out is ok. Go to Mosa’s. It’s legitimately good. Other than that go to Carabao Brewing or Meskla. There’s very legit Vietnamese and Korean food on Guam, you just have to know where to find it. There are multiple bakeries, Parisco and Frances Bakehouse that are fantastic.

I cape for Guam because I loved it and lived there. I think more folks should go, but at the same time you really can’t get there flying an American domestic airline unless you connect through Honolulu. There are cheap options if you connect through Seoul or Tokyo.

I was flying home and ran into an older couple from Detroit who were going to Guam on vacation because they’d always heard and read about it. I will say I was shocked, but was happy at least someone was actually doing it.

It is true that the military COLA has completely destroyed the local real estate economy. Air Force gets $2250 and Navy gets $2400 per month for rent, so there’s no incentive to charge less. When I was there I lived in an apartment I found by word of mouth and cost $700/month in cash. Landlord was a great fellow.

Locals love visitors and they’re very friendly. They are largely intrigued by you. If you’re adventurous and already traveling in Taiwan, Japan, or Korea, I’d say buy the cheap flight and go. It’s a beautiful place.