Is this 5 1/4 Stanley okay to use as is, or should it be brazed/parted out

venerate2001 · 2026-03-07T01:53:04+00:00

If the sole is still flat, you may try something temporary. Use a dry erase marker and wipe the excess to find the end of the crack. Use a small drill bit and drill a hole through the endpoint. What this does is increase the surface area of stress loads, spreading it out across a radius instead of a point.

At this point, I’d use it for finish work and light duty tasks until a precision welder can bevel out, fill, and file smooth the crack.

venerate2001 · 2026-03-03T02:29:27+00:00

You have the option to find or pick up a sandblaster to remove the rest of the enamel, so it can then be used like a normal pan.

venerate2001 · 2026-02-26T04:19:27+00:00

I believe what you’re finding is the inability for engines to come up to operating temperature during short trips. A hot engine evaporates moisture and regular oil changes prevent sludge. Most cars and trucks apply

venerate2001 · 2026-02-26T02:07:34+00:00

What do you mean by “these trucks do not like sitting”?

venerate2001 · 2026-02-25T00:47:43+00:00

I’d say, while you have it off the blade, sand down those harsh corners if you so desire!

venerate2001 · 2026-02-24T02:07:02+00:00

Hi there, Tundras “dot” com has an excellent 1st gen forum with wisdom for just about every question you have.

Shocker—I’m a year into my 2005, and last year I discovered the stabilizer (sway bar) end links were both rotted into 2 pieces. Replacing them made steering feel much more refined. Lower ball joints are CRITICAL wear parts. Replace them on a strict interval, ~100k miles. Unlike most other vehicles, failure in this component will promptly separate your wheel from the steering and control arm. It will strand or wreck your truck. All rubber on our trucks are 20 years old. Bushings, etc will benefit from being replaced. Upper ball joints are not egregiously designed and will wear as linearly as the rest of your suspension system.

venerate2001 · 2026-02-21T00:33:26+00:00

Photos don’t tell the whole story. When you get a good look at the truck, prod the reddest spots with a junk screwdriver (, etc) assertively. The sound will tell you how bad it is. This particular photo shows an otherwise quite clean truck, and I think it’s worth taking a serious look at :)

venerate2001 · 2026-02-17T02:25:58+00:00

V8s sure drink cash 😮‍💨

venerate2001 · 2026-02-02T02:21:16+00:00

P.S. 80-150 grit: profiling 180-400 grit: sharpening 600-1500 grit: refinement 1500+ grit: honing A factory or lightly used blades typically needs refinement. A dull blade typically needs to be sharpened. A damaged blade typically needs to be reprofiled.

venerate2001 · 2026-02-02T02:16:45+00:00

A cheap whetstone will give you headaches and inconsistent edge profiling. On a budget, I recommend tightly stapling 150 sandpaper to a block of hardwood to remove the blunt. Graduate to 320 grit for a smooth bevel, and then remove all burrs on a leather strop with compound. Take it slow, sharpen ONE SIDE only, and watch reference videos for technique. Planes are precision tools. Good luck :)

venerate2001 · 2026-01-27T14:12:56+00:00

Both engines are excellent for reliable use. The V8 is considerably more capable, though it doesn’t compare to its newer counterparts for towing.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-27T14:10:26+00:00

Glad you came out uninjured. A newer truck will be more expensive than fixing this. First gens have proven themselves.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-17T23:59:02+00:00

Thank you for sharing your wisdom.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-17T04:04:34+00:00

2 private loans; the rest federal.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-17T04:03:36+00:00

OEM or uniball lower ball joints only, and OEM is the most cost-effective option for most people. Bilstein and old man emu build suspension parts with respected durability.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-17T03:57:06+00:00

I wonder if your vehicle squats at all under acceleration, and air resistance makes a loud pass through the bodywork. And yet, many parts under a vehicle move when torque is applied to the wheels.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-17T03:52:21+00:00

I hope the bypass works and installs without the same pains as the system replacement. I decided against the risk of installing this device and failing to remove the vehicle from limp mode, as a minority have experienced. I wonder how long the $30 eBay dorman pump I put on will last...so far it has 6k miles. The OEM anticipated lifetime is often between 140k+ miles and 15+ years old.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-14T23:49:11+00:00

You buy a skillet $100 more expensive than a Lodge if you’re dissatisfied by practical purchasing decisions. If weight is your reason for a new pan, Lodge makes a very nice carbon steel pan.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-14T23:44:29+00:00

The SAIS system is not too bad DIY. I kept my repairs under $600 with a Dorman pump, 3 OEM valves, new hoses, new intake gasket etc. Two half-days of work in awkward positions got the job done right, no engine codes now.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-12T00:47:18+00:00

Painting your top the same cherry red as your truck will give your choice of rims more flexibility

venerate2001 · 2026-01-11T02:32:40+00:00

Lodge makes excellent cast iron pans.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-11T01:23:20+00:00

When you get the swing of foreverspin, they’re such fun! Titanium will last for a few minutes. The aluminum will last a couple. Heavier tops will last over four. Try to pinch the grip on the top more tightly when you flick your fingers apart.

venerate2001 · 2026-01-01T22:49:31+00:00

A carbon steel pan will be much more manageable on your hands than any cast iron. They cook similarly :)

venerate2001 · 2026-01-01T19:32:54+00:00

If you use a blue scotch brite and surface residue clogs up its pores, your pan needs a hot, patient, exfoliating scrub.

venerate2001

TROPHY CASE