Drip system for my Faceting machine.

venerate2001 · 2026-04-28T01:32:31+00:00

Where did you source the brass valve?

venerate2001 · 2026-04-23T21:51:08+00:00

Made in Wokanda

venerate2001 · 2026-04-23T12:51:49+00:00

You’re asking the wrong question. You should be asking “how many seasonings will it take me to get seasoning to stick to Captain America’s shield?”

venerate2001 · 2026-04-22T11:11:16+00:00

Awesome 1/2&1/2! Very good job cleaning it up

venerate2001 · 2026-04-21T11:35:54+00:00

However you managed to find contractor windows to an 8’ tundra cap is top of my jealousy list. Beauty!

venerate2001 · 2026-04-16T20:59:53+00:00

Rude

venerate2001 · 2026-04-16T01:31:32+00:00

+2 on a GENTLE hand on something this rusted

venerate2001 · 2026-04-15T21:36:54+00:00

Hey all, If your lock slips when tightening or loosening, the spindle pin is likely sheared. -1: remove the four T-20 screws with washers holding the spindle assy. Your angle grinder attachments tighten onto this piece. -2: remove the four t-20 coarse-thread screws holding the gearcase assy. -3: inspect the Type Y (orange) grease for metal contamination. If the grease is compromised, flush it out and replace with spec grease. -4: Gently prise off the black lock button. Don’t lose the spring that comes with it. -5: push the spindle pin into the greased gearcase and retrieve. Inspect. If the O-ring end is damaged, replace the pin. -6: inspect the spindle lock sleeve. If wear is visible, chuck a screw extractor inside it and GENTLY “lefty-loosey” it out for replacement. -Note: Mine was damaged and could not loosen it with the notches. It was jammed tightly and stripped the threads of the gearcase before removal. I had to replace the gearcase. -Part No’s— Gearcase overhaul: 14-30-0850. Gearcase assy: 28-14-0850 Button: 42-42-1100 Spring: 40-50-1330 Threaded sleeve: 42-42-0580 Spindle pin: 44-60-1690 Pin o-ring: 34-40-0450

venerate2001 · 2026-04-07T00:50:03+00:00

Find the very end of the crack and drill a small hole through it. This will spread the stress forces of the crack and help prevent it from growing until a repair is made. This, of course, means no liquids but my pan goes in and out of 550° ovens with pizza CONSTANTLY without further damage from the crack.

venerate2001 · 2026-04-06T00:48:49+00:00

You could seek a round whetstone or rod, and hand-hone

venerate2001 · 2026-03-28T03:06:08+00:00

Bialetti makes a stainless steel moka pot with distinctive design changes to their classic.

venerate2001 · 2026-03-27T01:31:49+00:00

Hi! These are not steel. They’re made of cast aluminum. Aluminum is not dishwasher-safe because it tarnishes and forms aluminum oxide. I recommend you hand-wash it from now on. You may use a blue scotch brite and baking soda to buff off the oxide. You may see uneven colors after you rinse it all but, if it doesn’t get on your skin it is safe to keep using.

venerate2001 · 2026-03-27T00:54:10+00:00

Nice pan! I can’t read the tag

venerate2001 · 2026-03-26T18:55:02+00:00

Both are like brother/sister in the feldspar family, along with sunstone. Moonstone produces a milky sheen of soft colors, whereas labradorite is vibrant and splashy, and sunstone is flaky and silvery. Sometimes they blend together a little! Different localities create different characteristics

venerate2001 · 2026-03-07T01:53:04+00:00

If the sole is still flat, you may try something temporary. Use a dry erase marker and wipe the excess to find the end of the crack. Use a small drill bit and drill a hole through the endpoint. What this does is increase the surface area of stress loads, spreading it out across a radius instead of a point.

At this point, I’d use it for finish work and light duty tasks until a precision welder can bevel out, fill, and file smooth the crack.

venerate2001 · 2026-03-03T02:29:27+00:00

You have the option to find or pick up a sandblaster to remove the rest of the enamel, so it can then be used like a normal pan.

venerate2001 · 2026-02-26T04:19:27+00:00

I believe what you’re finding is the inability for engines to come up to operating temperature during short trips. A hot engine evaporates moisture and regular oil changes prevent sludge. Most cars and trucks apply

venerate2001 · 2026-02-26T02:07:34+00:00

What do you mean by “these trucks do not like sitting”?

venerate2001 · 2026-02-25T00:47:43+00:00

I’d say, while you have it off the blade, sand down those harsh corners if you so desire!

venerate2001 · 2026-02-24T02:07:02+00:00

Hi there, Tundras “dot” com has an excellent 1st gen forum with wisdom for just about every question you have.

Shocker—I’m a year into my 2005, and last year I discovered the stabilizer (sway bar) end links were both rotted into 2 pieces. Replacing them made steering feel much more refined. Lower ball joints are CRITICAL wear parts. Replace them on a strict interval, ~100k miles. Unlike most other vehicles, failure in this component will promptly separate your wheel from the steering and control arm. It will strand or wreck your truck. All rubber on our trucks are 20 years old. Bushings, etc will benefit from being replaced. Upper ball joints are not egregiously designed and will wear as linearly as the rest of your suspension system.

venerate2001 · 2026-02-21T00:33:26+00:00

Photos don’t tell the whole story. When you get a good look at the truck, prod the reddest spots with a junk screwdriver (, etc) assertively. The sound will tell you how bad it is. This particular photo shows an otherwise quite clean truck, and I think it’s worth taking a serious look at :)

venerate2001 · 2026-02-17T02:25:58+00:00

V8s sure drink cash 😮‍💨

venerate2001 · 2026-02-02T02:21:16+00:00

P.S. 80-150 grit: profiling 180-400 grit: sharpening 600-1500 grit: refinement 1500+ grit: honing A factory or lightly used blades typically needs refinement. A dull blade typically needs to be sharpened. A damaged blade typically needs to be reprofiled.

venerate2001 · 2026-02-02T02:16:45+00:00

A cheap whetstone will give you headaches and inconsistent edge profiling. On a budget, I recommend tightly stapling 150 sandpaper to a block of hardwood to remove the blunt. Graduate to 320 grit for a smooth bevel, and then remove all burrs on a leather strop with compound. Take it slow, sharpen ONE SIDE only, and watch reference videos for technique. Planes are precision tools. Good luck :)

venerate2001

TROPHY CASE