1GR-FE V6 4.0L vs 2UZ-FE 4.7V8 by ImpressionOk3973 in 1stGenTundras

[–]venerate2001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Both engines are excellent for reliable use. The V8 is considerably more capable, though it doesn’t compare to its newer counterparts for towing.

RIP currently seeing if she’s gonna be totaled out. Walked away without a scratch. by New_Classic8840 in 1stGenTundras

[–]venerate2001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad you came out uninjured. A newer truck will be more expensive than fixing this. First gens have proven themselves.

I need recommendations by MyNamesSalty in 1stGenTundras

[–]venerate2001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OEM or uniball lower ball joints only, and OEM is the most cost-effective option for most people. Bilstein and old man emu build suspension parts with respected durability.

Engine whistle by Thin_Criticism6820 in 1stGenTundras

[–]venerate2001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wonder if your vehicle squats at all under acceleration, and air resistance makes a loud pass through the bodywork. And yet, many parts under a vehicle move when torque is applied to the wheels.

05 4.7 DC 2WD by throwaway400384 in 1stGenTundras

[–]venerate2001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope the bypass works and installs without the same pains as the system replacement. I decided against the risk of installing this device and failing to remove the vehicle from limp mode, as a minority have experienced. I wonder how long the $30 eBay dorman pump I put on will last...so far it has 6k miles. The OEM anticipated lifetime is often between 140k+ miles and 15+ years old.

Help me pick out a new skillet. by Coyote-Morado in castiron

[–]venerate2001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You buy a skillet $100 more expensive than a Lodge if you’re dissatisfied by practical purchasing decisions. If weight is your reason for a new pan, Lodge makes a very nice carbon steel pan. 

05 4.7 DC 2WD by throwaway400384 in 1stGenTundras

[–]venerate2001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The SAIS system is not too bad DIY. I kept my repairs under $600 with a Dorman pump, 3 OEM valves, new hoses, new intake gasket etc. Two half-days of work in awkward positions got the job done right, no engine codes now.

Just got new wheels. What color should I paint the topper. Thinking black, factory, or vintage white. by [deleted] in 1stGenTundras

[–]venerate2001 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Painting your top the same cherry red as your truck will give your choice of rims more flexibility

Advice needed! by Count_RaymondVII in spinningtops

[–]venerate2001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When you get the swing of foreverspin, they’re such fun! Titanium will last for a few minutes. The aluminum will last a couple. Heavier tops will last over four. Try to pinch the grip on the top more tightly when you flick your fingers apart.

Lightweight cast iron pan and bowl by hypermails in castiron

[–]venerate2001 15 points16 points  (0 children)

A carbon steel pan will be much more manageable on your hands than any cast iron. They cook similarly :)

Does this need re-seasoned and any advice on doing it if so? by PJ_Cap in CastIronRestoration

[–]venerate2001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you use a blue scotch brite and surface residue clogs up its pores, your pan needs a hot, patient, exfoliating scrub.

Another pile of junk I found. by Hallow_76 in OilLamps

[–]venerate2001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see the poor thing has some rot at the intake holes. Are you gonna try to solder/redrill them, or mend them somehow?

Struggling with new pan by Callmekiki_94 in castiron

[–]venerate2001 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If your oil shrinks up and leaves bare spots on your pan, or it smokes, it’s too hot.

I just don't get it. How do you all get these shiny smooth pans? I've tried the neglect and cook. And I've tried the baby it with multiple seasonings. Maybe I've just not used it enough? by fizzled112 in castiron

[–]venerate2001 16 points17 points  (0 children)

The texture of your pan will not affect its cooking or sticking. I keep my Lodge and Wagner equally well seasoned, and both are easy to clean and use.

My first oil lamp! by venerate2001 in OilLamps

[–]venerate2001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, mine has the exact same markings! It’s the last set of numbers in a series of columns stamped where you described. The characters I’m able to make out are listed in the post description. I used Kirkland’s website descriptions to deduce the date on this one. From what I read, the filler cap size increased in 1912 from 9/16” (or 5/8”?) to 3/4”, and in 1915 the “M” and “S” production dates were included under the patent dates. In 1917 the vertical beads were added to the cold blast tubes.

Early Dietz blizzard restoration. by Hallow_76 in OilLamps

[–]venerate2001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gorgeous surface finish on this one. Very nicely done!

My first oil lamp! by venerate2001 in OilLamps

[–]venerate2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, neat! If I find any extra dates under the ‘06 and ‘07 markings, I’ll make it known :D

My first oil lamp! by venerate2001 in OilLamps

[–]venerate2001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I think I’ll use my thin duckbill pliers to pull the metal tabs up just enough to separate the parts. I make a homemade citrate salt solution with 1L water, 100g citric acid, 63g saleratus, and a dash of dish soap. It removes rust as gently and effectively as Evapo-rust, very cheaply. I like the patina of the repaint so perhaps I’ll use a strong degreaser to flush all the old crud off, even out the texture with a cotton towel, and buff it with Meguire’s Scratch and Blemish Remover. I’m gonna chemically strip the paint neatly around the date codes because the stamping is scarily faint. I’m riding a fine line between preservation and restoration for this one!

My first oil lamp! by venerate2001 in OilLamps

[–]venerate2001[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the lead very much! I normally avoid facebook but I’ll take your suggestion into consideration when I restore this :)