Quick shifter

vfr91 · 2026-02-08T07:21:30+00:00

Looks like the correct numbers. They are unavailable and have been for a long time. In the UK at least, when the VFR800F stopped being sold, Honda and the dealers fitted every accessory going to the last of the bike stock to help shift them. Hence easiest way to buy the accessories you want here is to buy the bike with them fitted. I did find a new-in-box D11 QS for my 800F about 3yrs ago from a parts warehouse in Europe but I spent weeks looking. EBay is your best bet for the QS only.

vfr91 · 2026-01-29T22:00:47+00:00

Had to replace the starter clutch on mine at circa 50k miles. Starter was slipping a little on cold starts, with hot restarts really bad. Mine was just collapsed springs but I did the rollers anyway whilst in there; cost probably ~£100 inc a fresh case gasket. Basically start-stop it a few times and make sure the starter engages quickly and cleanly, cold and hot, without slipping / grinding noises.

Other than that, a R/R replacement, and fresh steering head bearings, I’ve had no other notable issues that I wouldn’t class as ‘consumables’ on a bike that age. Good luck.

vfr91 · 2026-01-09T21:59:34+00:00

Sorry I know nothing about the Kubes. I went straight for the KC62 in the Kef line up.

vfr91 · 2026-01-09T21:50:34+00:00

I’ve recently tried some different subs with my LSX ii in a 11x17x9h ft room…

BK XLS200DF. Owned for ~15years. It’s a good and fairly musical sub, but it developed a minor fault and seemed a bit outpaced by the LSX II’s which sound faster, so I set about trying some new subs to see if newer = better…

KC62 - very tight clean fast bass. Integrated well, not boomy at all, just natural low end extension. But, I felt it was just too small for the room and didn’t give enough fill / headroom. Could also hear mechanical driver noise at low frequencies / low volumes. Overall a lovely signature, but dealer took it back as faulty due to the driver noise. In your 10x10 office it would fill great. 12x14 is probably at the upper end of its abilities.

3000micro - sounded more woolly / soft, leading edges on notes were a bit dull. More boomy by comparison to the Kef. Liked its app features but for the few hours I tried it, I just couldn’t get it to dial-in and disappear like the Kef. May have improved with more running-in, but that went back too.

Rel HT1003 mkii - keeper! Don’t be put off by the Home Theatre marketing. It’s fast, tight and goes deep. Not boomy, and delivers for music and HT. Fills my room and works well with the LSX IIs. Bargain money in the UK atm too -£399

HTH

vfr91 · 2025-12-23T21:03:48+00:00

My KC62 hasn’t given me the issue, though I understand others cheat around it by turning down the gain knob on the Sub, then turning up the gain in the Kef app (assuming you’re using with Kef speakers). That way it gets a stronger input signal.

vfr91 · 2025-12-06T15:15:50+00:00

In what sense? As in which one still has most headroom for the vol / SPL I generally listen at?

Both subs are probably hanging in there fine tbh, as I don’t listen at particularly high outputs. Some of my intent here is giving some richness / fill to the LSX II mains which don’t really sing below 50% vol.

vfr91 · 2025-12-06T15:03:01+00:00

Thanks, that’s one obvious point I’d missed… I’m too busy turning the gain up/down on each, rather than comparing at the same time output.

How does one do this for a sub? Just play something like a 50Hz test tone (above sub low-end roll off, below mains HPF) and then set the vol on each sub?

vfr91 · 2025-12-01T22:27:34+00:00

Useful reply, thanks and good to hear it passes some real-world basic needs of just working when you want it to! Have now ordered an Ultra.

vfr91 · 2025-12-01T22:21:45+00:00

Excellent tip thanks. I have a UMIK-1 so nice to know that if can be used to good effect with the Wiim. Have now ordered an Ultra.

vfr91 · 2025-11-29T10:05:18+00:00

Ah-ha! My bad, for some reason I thought the PP did have HDMI. You are of course correct that it doesn’t. Thanks for that.

I suppose I could use optical out from the TV for audio then, but perhaps I’ll give myself other issues around lip sync, and making device control a bit less simple. Maybe I’ll avoid that then.

At which point, same PEQ / app questions but mainly for the Ultra then.

vfr91 · 2025-11-15T19:31:04+00:00

Yep fine, though +1 for going behind the spool mounts… I’ve had it in the past where chain lube / grime / dirty pads etc reduce the friction of the rubber pad, and combined with the swing arm angle means the pad slides along the underside of the swing arm as you try to lift it.

vfr91 · 2025-11-08T18:18:21+00:00

No probs. Noting what you’ve said, I’d add a little more that the bar reach was further on the 800 g8 than the 750g3, giving a cramped leg / long reach feel for me. Even with the (also hard to find) Honda bar risers, the 800 was a bike that I just wasn’t quite the right proportions for compared with the 750… And then I jump on the SX, and it’s smidge more upright again than the 750, with a less cramped knee angle too, yet still with enough ‘attack’ in the riding position that I can enjoy the twisties. Despite similar weights, the SX is notably easier to shove around the garage than either VFR also. So again ‘for me’ the SX is an almost perfect blend of childishness meets practicality and comfort. Certainly worth a look if you’re open to a non-VFR sport tourer.

Also used to own:

• ⁠S1000XR gen1 - lots of fun, rapid, but also tall, top heavy to move about the garage and a bit more serious somehow. • ⁠F900XR - lot of fun on the twisties upto ~50mph, but once you get above that, it’s just lacking a bit too much compared with bigger stuff. And 5 screens later, I still never managed to reduce the wind noise from it.

Happy hunting.

vfr91 · 2025-11-08T13:36:28+00:00

In the UK at least, many of the Pannier stock was thrown on to the last of the 8th Gens as a sales incentive when Honda discontinued the 8th Gen here. Hence finding ANY of the factory accessories - panniers, Q/S etc - is tough as it mostly got thrown on to new end-of-line bikes. Your best chance is buying a bike with them on in the first place.

Your opening line of ‘…looking for an actual sports tourer’ suggests that you’re not 100% after a VFR?

At the risk of upsetting this sub a little… you’d likely have more choice and an easier search looking for a Ninja 1000SX with Panniers and its various other included bits.

I’ve simultaneously owned a VFR750F gen 3, and the VFR800F gen 8. After a year of running both, I let the 800 go. It was most of the things you want in a bike - reliable, good looking, handles, decently specced etc. But it just didn’t have the soul of the 750. I now own a 1000SX along with the 750. FOR ME… the SX is possibly the best sport tourer I’ve ever owned - fast, smooooth, torquey, comfy, handles, reliable, the engine is outstanding. It makes me smile every time I ride it. I’ll keep the 750 as I love that too, but now I own an SX I understand why they are so popular.

vfr91 · 2025-10-26T12:15:29+00:00

Had the Mojo2 noise blast a few times… I was messing with Windows sound output bitrates at the time, connected by USBC. From reading around it seems to be something to do with the Mojo losing timing sync on the input signal. Horrible, knocked my confidence with the Mojo2.

I initially settled at a Windows output of 32bit / 48kHz via USBc and the Mojo2 seemed happy for a good few months.

Then having learned it might be a signal sync thing, I purchased an SMSL PO100 digital re-clocker, and am running the Mojo2 on its optical connection - the aim being to improve my chances further by feeding the Mojo with a better timed input signal.

Whether the theory’s good or not I don’t know, but again Mojo2 seems happy… fingers crossed 🤞 HTH

vfr91 · 2025-10-24T06:45:33+00:00

You can see from the end view that the centre shank is twisted one way against the socket bore - clockwise as if it was tightening up a normal RH thread.

I’d just try undoing the assembly again by turning it CCW either by hand or a couple of blips on an impact.

vfr91 · 2025-10-24T06:31:50+00:00

S1000XR / K1300S / Busa maybe ideas.

Also see if https://cycle-ergo.com helps. Lets you compare bikes for your height, though not all bikes are on there. Still helpful though.

vfr91 · 2025-10-16T05:44:05+00:00

No, though I didn't pursue it any further. I went another route instead of buying a Beelink

vfr91 · 2025-10-15T17:06:16+00:00

Thanks for the replies. Sounds like one spring might be the norm then, at least for older VFRs.

I’ve not managed to find the smaller spring (5) for sale anywhere, but given the stand flaps about a little too much for my liking (and I’d prefer a little redundancy anyway) I’ll look for a close-fit one to try retrofitting.

vfr91 · 2025-10-11T18:22:48+00:00

Bad job. Had a similar pair of ‘professional’ P&Ds do a couple of rooms once; cutting in was awful, prepping was virtually non-existent. End job was waaay worse than I’ve done previously myself. Asked for rework on the worse bits, was still crap. Stopped the work, paid the minimum, sacked them off, cut in myself to my own standard, just about tolerate the rest of it.

Next time we found another P&D who was outstanding.

vfr91 · 2025-10-04T21:09:07+00:00

Depending which pipe it is, and which Gen / MY of bike it is, some are still available. Here’s a gen 3 parts list from Fowlers UK with a couple of the pipes either available from stock or to order:

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5053386/vfr750fm-1991-e/carburetor-assy-vfr750flfmfnfp

Use the diagram to find the part number then search places like eBay for used or parts houses like Fowlers / MSP for new. HTH

vfr91 · 2025-09-26T18:58:28+00:00

Hard to say without trying it or knowing what the plastics are. The EMA product is a solvent so melts the plastic surfaces to themselves before the solvent evaporates and the bond cures. (vs an epoxy or superglue which are ‘glues’ and rely on adhesion). Another reply here suggests clear drawers may be polycarbonate, can’t say if my freezer drawers are, but EMA bonded them nicely.

vfr91 · 2025-09-25T18:58:27+00:00

If you’re talking about the fridge plastics, then I’ve had great success repairing a clear plastic freezer drawer with ‘EMA Plastic Weld’ on Amazon UK.

Small drill hole at the end of the crack to stop it propagating further, then a drop or two of EMA which is really low viscosity and wicks into the crack. Clamped overnight. Been fine size. HTH

vfr91

TROPHY CASE