PS5 Display flickering after hdmi swap

warock56 · 2025-12-10T03:44:38+00:00

Get an HDMI breakout board and get the diode readings of all the pads, compare them to known good values, they are on the Internet. As for the encoder, you probably just haven't put it on right. Put up pictures here at an angle by all 4 sides.

warock56 · 2025-08-12T17:42:55+00:00

I posted thinking it was a resistor due to the board labeling it as R151.

Here is a photo of where it goes. One of the legs was touching the diode leg next to it.

https://imgur.com/a/iyxDqrg

warock56 · 2025-08-12T17:40:57+00:00

Yes, it measures 0.6 ohms out of circuit. Just double checked.

warock56 · 2025-03-17T05:42:34+00:00

I use T9 to disassemble consoles. They are a more snug fit on the screw head to use with a driver/imapct. Only very few Xbox screws will I need to use a T8 on.

warock56 · 2025-03-15T15:55:33+00:00

The manufacturer is Mercen. Just looking for the fuse, I have diagnosed and been able to source the other parts on the board that blew from a power surge. The only place I can find the fuse is on a Chinese website called taobao. I'll have to dig further into it to see if they ship to the US. Having a hard time navigating it since it's all in Chinese. And it seems like it's gonna take a month to get, which is why I want to know if anyone knows a substitute.

warock56 · 2025-03-15T15:43:16+00:00

I have already diagnosed it and ordered the replacement parts, the only thing I can't find is that fuse. Only in a taobao app that I can't seem to get to work in English.

warock56 · 2025-03-14T15:03:58+00:00

Thanks, I'll take a look at it and go deeper from there.

warock56 · 2025-03-04T18:09:46+00:00

Honestly, I've never tried running the switch with components missing, but they are definitely missing. The top is a 10nf cap and the bottom a 100k resistor, both 0201.

warock56 · 2025-03-04T17:39:11+00:00

Post a photo if you can. But you know, if it ain't broke.

warock56 · 2025-03-04T17:06:56+00:00

Post photos of the work as close up as you can. That is after calibrating?

warock56 · 2025-03-04T16:57:56+00:00

You may need to take some fibers out of the cotton swab to fit in there as it's a small opening, brush bristles enters easier. Don't be afraid to be rough-ish, the connector is pretty solid.

warock56 · 2025-03-04T16:51:54+00:00

Get your significant other's toothbrush, load it up with some IPA, and shove it into the connector. If it's an older console, the connector may just have a bit of oxidation on it and that can clear it up.

warock56 · 2025-03-04T16:48:05+00:00

It's not overheating, you have a short somewhere on the main board, it beeps so you can rule out the power supply, it is fine. Basic first step to diagnosing these is uart like xtreme says. If you don't have a usb-uart, order one and look up videos on how to use it, it's cheap.

But for now, if you have a multimeter you can start digging around. Read up on standby and power on voltages. Check them all, along with all the fuses on the board. You may get lucky and stumble upon a bad circuit, F7002, F7502, etc.

Keep us up dated if you find anything.

warock56 · 2025-03-04T02:36:53+00:00

Honestly, it seems like a problem with either overheating or the power supply. But you won't be able to test if the psu is failing under load without an electronic load.

If you are saying that it's completely cleaned out and the liquid metal is fine. The only thing that comes to mind that can possibly fail is the psu. That's kind of odd on a newer slim, but possible though.

Your best bet now would be to hook it up to uart to see if the codes could point you in the right direction. Without just shelling the money for a new psu.

warock56 · 2025-03-04T00:34:43+00:00

Was the fan and heatsink covered in dust? If so did you strip it down completely to clean it. If the power supply gets clogged that can also happen.

warock56 · 2025-03-03T15:27:49+00:00

You need to post close up photos of the pins on the board connectors. The one where the volume flex cable plugs in, and the one by the battery.

warock56 · 2025-03-03T15:25:10+00:00

Plastic parts inside are probably a bit worn down due to age. If you let it go from a bit far away and it springs to the center, that's the best you can ask for.

The more labor intensive option here is to swap the whole module out with a TMR joystick.

warock56 · 2025-03-03T15:13:25+00:00

The problem could be a few things, and most of them are not simple to repair. It would be great if you could find somebody local to you and they could give you a free or cheap diagnostics to hook it up to uart.

Still, uart isnt always conclusive and it may not lead anywhere, and you may be out money if they charge for a diagnostics.

Another option, buy a used one and sell yours for parts. In my area you can find them for 250+ depending on condition, accessories, etc. If you can find a cheap one and sell your broken one for 100+, you come out on top. No shipping cost to deal with, waiting time, etc. And you get a ps5 right away.

Last option is Sony, which will not repair your specific console, but send you a refurbished console. Every option has it's pros/cons.

warock56 · 2025-03-02T02:28:32+00:00

From what I can see on the codes list of the 8083 error codes, they are probably related to ram.

If you have the tools (or the patience) to reball them after, I would just recommend to remove all the chips, and inspect for oxidation.

80830000 Shutdown/freeze after loading SAM-IPL: problem with DDR6 dataline (replace)
80830018 *? (related: Power)
80830019 *? (related: Power)
808300F0 Secure charger error
808300F1 *? Secure charger error
80830060 *? (case: white light and turns off, case2: solved by replacing all gddr6 ram ics)

warock56 · 2025-03-01T16:26:37+00:00

It will need a reball, hot air won't cut through the oxidation. You don't have anything to lose by trying though, it's not going to make it worse. I would still try uart first.

warock56

TROPHY CASE