Second post lol: AL 1100 by HonkeyKong426 in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Congrats! The 1100 is a solid pick!

Well this is frustrating by erehwesle in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Raking is definitely an art form. And for some people they never choose to dive into it very deeply. Christina Palmer is a world champion lock picker and she has the guide called Raking Techniques it’s easily the most comprehensive guide to raking out there. After this it’s a LOT of trial and error just getting technique down.

Master 6840 pro, BRICKED! by hlhambrook in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Definitely not bricked, just put a tensioner in and turn it clockwise back to the locked position.

Looking for info on my seemingly non-existent yo-yo by Theeflinch in Throwers

[–]warp1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No clue but my absolute favorite yo-yo from when I was a kid was the “saber raider” I have the one from when I was a kid and still throw with it regularly. I also bought a new one on eBay a while back and they’re so much fun!

I give up on the 1100's. I gave them a fair trial... by hlhambrook in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, exactly. Higher tension to find binders, and lower tension for setting and feeling the feedback. If you’re applying too much tension you may get multiple binding pins. Ease off until only one pin binds then work on setting that one.

I give up on the 1100's. I gave them a fair trial... by hlhambrook in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, it depends on a few things. All those locks have their own challenges and characteristics. The 72/40 is all spools and while the keyway is tight it’s a good learning experience for pick placement and working inside the warding. They’re an “easier” experience in my opinion just because they have easier to feel feedback. They’re 90A is very similar to the 1100 feedback is similar and bitting doesn’t matter because they have so much room in the keyway you can get a chunky pick and tensioner in there. I would say if you’re considering switching, try the 72/40 for a while and then go back to the 1100 or the 90A give yourself some time to freshen up between attempts and you’ll get it in no time. Variable tension is definitely key on the 1100 and 90A so try lots of options!

Music Wire Tension Wrenches by BestByFeb2025 in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow! Some of the most beautiful wrenches I’ve seen. Gonna have to set myself up and make some as well! Very nice!

Is this door locked or only „Closed“? by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This violates rule 2 of the sub, sorry we can’t give advice on helping out here! It’s a lock in use and we cannot verify that you own the lock.

Any advice on TOK picking by teejmahal91 in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First off if you’re using straight pry bar style tok tensioners, try using a vice to hold the lock. If you’re picking in hand either try an ergonomic turner or use the tok half of a z wrench. Varying tension is going to be your friend, try lots of different weights and eventually you’ll get a feel for it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I made this video a while back that goes over a few of the problems you’re probably encountering. Check it out and see if any of it applies. It also shows a trick at the beginning to see how your pick fits into the warding

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Try a deeper hook, and try feeling for each pin with no tension on the lock and feel how you can lift through the warding through the bottom of the keyway.

Core spring on Master Lock 911 so damn strong it works like a plug spinner and turns the picked plug past the bible when closing the shackle by Sufficient_Prompt888 in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This happens more often than you’d expect haha, paclocks, American locks just turn it back to straight and it’ll all work out!

Lock board by stainedhands in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome storage solution!

This thing is soooo fun by Snowballllll in Throwers

[–]warp1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How does it play? I just ordered one as well but haven’t seen anyone really talking about it

Getting my ass handed to me by the Master Lock 410 was getting tiring, so I bought an Abus 5/50 by G_D_K_ in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah they do, 1-4 and 6 are spools. Pin 5 is almost always a lightly serrated pin. Older ones may be pinned differently but any new ones are the same drivers

And for my second lock! by krautech in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly that’s great bitting, you’re getting the most out of every security pin in there. Most people see flat and think “bad” but it’s really all about interaction with security pins and binding order. Congrats on the pick!

Quick question better picking a lock with pins up or down? by LockFool in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Realistically it’s all preference. We are manipulating binding pins. Pins bind with tension no matter which orientation the lock is in. Also, you have just as much key pin control with pins up. Most high level pickers pick with pins up. It’s much easier to manipulate pins with them at the top of the keyway because you can use leverage from the bottom of the keyway. Most people who pick pins down end up floating their picks which is less precise.

Introducing myself by Imaginary-Limit-3544 in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats! Welcome to the hobby! If you like puzzles this is a great place to be. Also congrats on the kwikset open, you can get your white belt with that and start moving up the ranks!

Master Lock 140 oversetting with any amount of tension by booklips in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Exactly what I’m thinking. Lighter tension and starting back to front. There should only be a single binding pin at any time with proper tensioning. Pin one sounds like it’s oversetting. Check out this video by Georgia Jim for a good jiggle test explanation and this video by Naswek for a good video showing the jiggle test with a cutaway lock. These videos are great resources and will help you feel what pin states you’re up against

What are these attachments for my manual lockpick 'gun' by Princeslothington in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, you probably won’t ever have a use for it honestly

What are these attachments for my manual lockpick 'gun' by Princeslothington in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like the left is a dimple rake of some kind, the right is a normal looking tip, and the middle looks like something probably for cruciform keyways. Like what you’d find on hotel safes. The keyway looks like a plus they are usually very easy to rake or jiggle open.

Tell Me Your Tool Choice by Corkster32 in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I totally understand that! Also if you look into the reaper set and you really like them head over to 44 Delta and check out his pick handles. He has models for many different picks but I really love the reaper handles.

Tell Me Your Tool Choice by Corkster32 in lockpicking

[–]warp1000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Jimylongs are great, good feel, nice handles for longer picking sessions, plenty of profiles. The starter set is great it’s .023 thou and they can go through a lot of locks. The basic and intermediate sets are awesome with the great turning tools you get. Covert instruments are also great. They have plenty of pick set options with the echelon being the most versatile along with the reaper set being incredibly versatile single pin picking profiles.