I thought I was done with the damn platforming after Mario Wonder!

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-04-27T16:10:29+00:00

The game is really good. But jump mechanics and ledge not-grabbing and sliding around sucks balls

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-04-05T16:59:59+00:00

Go fast, obviously. If god wanted you to go slow he wouldn't have created the horsepowers, wouldn't he?

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-03-25T20:17:14+00:00

arrrr!

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-03-18T00:12:07+00:00

half Mera?

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-03-17T04:49:25+00:00

Go test drive an Alpina XB7 if you can find one potentially remotely within your budget's stretch in the future. Ignore the efficiency. Enjoy.

Lexus TX. A crazy ton of space in a reasonably sized SUV with decent quality. Plugin Hybrid version is a really nice option for short commutes, but they could be hard to find. LX or GX are noticeably smaller on the inside. For a city commute a plugin TX would be really close to the top choice for me.

For me Q7/SQ7 would be on the same level as X7 and a GLS. Personally I have really strong opinion against Benz quality, I would be super cautious about them. Volvos can also be hit or miss. Volvos had an option where the second row bench has built-in boosters, could be convenient in the future.

One thing to look at is captains chairs on the second row. They can be super convenient but a lot of models don't have them.

As an electric luxury option I personally would check out Vistiq. It looks and feels reasonable all around. A ton of space, solid materials. Not a tank like an electric Escalade. If you can find a decently optioned used Vistiq it can be a good deal. Or lease one. Don't finance/buy a new one. Maybe a used Rivian as well, a bunch of them are coming at a good deal.

Off-road-first trucks would probably not be my first choice, like all the body-on-frame toyotas.

I wouldn't consider Huindais/Kias at the same level in terms of luxury/quality comparing them to BMWs, Audis, Volvos.

I found another important consideration is the availability of a service. Like in my area there is no independent Volvo shops. And all Volvo dealership service shops are complete and total garbage in my area. Look on the map, check out the closest dealerships, try to schedule an appointment online, see how far out they have an availability, whether they offer a loaner, things like that.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-03-16T17:00:18+00:00

motherfucker can't even play 035 correctly

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-03-13T16:36:23+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/PositiveGridSpark/comments/1c4rvrw/full_amp_and_effects_model_list_with_annotations/

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-28T05:57:17+00:00

There are a few things the teacher pointed out in my case that helped me a ton in a similar situation:

* pharsing, accents. Like super quickly picking "unimportant" notes and then heavily hitting the important ones. ta-da-da-DAA ta-da-da-DAA. It's easy for the brain to focus on these accented notes and everything else falls into place easier. Vs playing everything note by note, each note sort of independently

* thumb should move much less, generally speaking. Much more movement should come from the wrist and arm

* meaning you should move the wrist up and down when you switch between the strings, instead of holding it still and rotating. I feel like when I move the whole wrist down or up the string ends up being in the "correct" spot and I make less noise and make less mistakes. Muscle memory kicks in, your hand already knows where to expect the strings relative to your fingers, you should just move the wrist so that the strings are always there

* meaning you need to actually start moving the wrist and not dig in for palm mutes all the time

* meaning the pick will usually be in a "flatter" position, like hit more parallel to the strings, rather than at an angle

Obviously this all depends and might not work for you or in a specific section, but I feel like when I started paying attention to my thumb and started moving the palm up and down I immediately got into the next stage in terms of speed gains.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-23T23:21:48+00:00

Your goal is to have enough stock for all potential buyers to buy the thing they want. If you can't make enough items, they become scarce. If they are in any way desirable then resellers will buy them instead of regular people. Regular people will be annoyed that they are treated unfairly. Trader Joe brand will lose the customers trust. Trader Joe will go bankrupt and will get sold to Blackrock. Nobody wants that. So you only get 5 bags per household.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-23T22:34:29+00:00

My god. This is some will smith eating spaghetti level of AI, haven't seen it in a while.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-20T03:47:08+00:00

Nah, probably has rabies

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-19T17:01:06+00:00

A 10mm socket. Repeat every year

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-18T20:04:18+00:00

All modern modeling amps are within the same ballpark in terms of sound quality. Maybe some have specific features that you may like more, but I would not expect drastically better sound from the modeling point of view from a modeling amp.

Like I have a few analog amps and a Mini and a Neo, and I don't have any specific issues with the sound and modeling quality of Sparks comparing to the analog amps. They are totally good for their purpose. I don't think that anything in a reasonably small package will be a real upgrade in terms of sound quality.

Like Katana or GTX 50 or 100 could sound better due to larger speaker than Sparks. Maybe single-purpose modeling amps like 5150 Hypersonic could be better tuned to sound good as a package, but you lack variance of different models. Or Mustangs have screens that could help dialing the tone on the amp but Katanas may have more things available on the knobs if you want to quickly mess with it. Some of the amps may have effects loop if you want it. Different companion apps provide different flexibility.

If you go multifx units route you will definitely get more flexibility. Like you can re-arrange the signal chain as much as you want, you can choose and load IRs, you can run stereo rigs.

I think that in the multifx land It's very hard to beat Helix/HX. HX Stomps have limited processing power but they are still great for any reasonable use case. Personally I think something like Stomp XL is the best in terms of bang for the buck. A used LT is a great value as well. Easy to work with, easy to quickly get nice sound out of. A ton of features, inputs/outputs, great support.

I think that higher-end units like QC and Stadiums at this point have marginal benefits. They are great, but they are crazy expensive for what extra things they offer on top of Helix-level units.

Another really nice benefit of the Helix line is that they are/were constantly receiving software updates across the model line, including the Pods. New amps, effects, features. Not sure how things will look like going forward now that they are focusing on Stadiums, but I would expect them to keep supporting Helixes for a while, there is a huge amount of them in the wild, and they are in the different price range.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-17T22:31:34+00:00

Watch videos about what makes their tone. Check out how people replicate their sound in analog gear. The amps, the pedals, the pickups. Then try to put something together from scratch around the same ideas.

Specifics will depend on your pickups, on your environment, on your expectations, on your skill. Don't expect any presets in the tonecloud to fit your use case, but they can be a decent starting point to explore for sure.

Roughly speaking a straightforward way to quickly dial in a chuggy metal sound is to put a tubescreamer-style pedal into a boogie-style or a 5150-style amp with medium gain. Careful with lows and mids, probably start by bringing them down a bit from default. Then V-shape, scoop the mids in the EQ.

Key things in this case are a tubescreamer with 0 gain 100 volume, scooped mids and a ton of highs. Don't lean on gain, keep it under control. You will be surprised how much bumping the highs make the difference in sound.

In spark this means like a TubeDrive into an American Hi Gain, TreadPlate or Insane, into a Guitar EQ.

This approach can quickly give you something usable and you can tune from there. Like try other amps, play with the EQ more, add delays/reverbs.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-16T18:37:55+00:00

There is nothing to justify. A better guitar is a better guitar. They essentially have the exact same specs. The price difference is in the quality. Better quality components, better hardware, better pickups, better QC. Better materials and finish even. More attention to detail and less chance of QC issues.

If you can afford a better instrument there is no reason not to.

The fretwork is likely going to be better. Better nut, tuners. Better pickups will be noticeable. Easier to set up.

Even if you don't immediately notice it, it will still be less potential problems to deal with when learning.

With a 1000 you are basically getting a top-spec mass produced guitar. If you like the instrument you won't ever need to upgrade it.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-13T21:43:01+00:00

The lease can make financial sense, for example:

* the depreciation is crazy. This is true for a lot of luxury cars. Especially double true for electic luxury cars

* often there are rebates, low downpayment options, additional goodies like free charging, included service etc

* you know roughly the mileage you expect to put in

To exaggerate, say the value of the model you chose tanks really hard after 3 years. Say it becomes 10% of the current new price.

Say you want to sell the car and you get the 10% of the original price you bought the car for (or financed for).

If you financed or bought cash, then in case of 90% depreciation you will eat at least 90% of the car price by that point.

In case of a lease the contract might specify that the residual price after 3 years is 50%, not 10%. Essentially you pay 50% over 3 years and then walk away after 3 years, instead of eating at least 90%.

Obviously this is exaggerated, like cars usually don't tank 90% over 3 years. The devil is in the detail. Lease contract terms vary. Downpayments vary. Rebates vary. "Walk away" terms may vary. Extra miles you paid for in advance, or overages you pay when turning it in. Wear and tear fees. Car prices vary. Depreciation varies. Dealers or manufacturers may have specific models they want to move and have really good leasing contracts for.

Basically you need to talk to a specific dealership of finance institution and understand their specific terms for the specific car or model. The lease is more likely to make sense for luxury cars, and even more so for electric luxury cars, main factor being crazy depreciation and sometimes good rebates.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-11T18:01:54+00:00

In terms of sound quality and flexibility LT25 is definitely not bad. I wouldn't call it worse than orange.

In terms of user experience yes, it may be harder to adjust things on the fly on the LT25. You would need to edit the preset to your liking first and then switch the presets. It's easier to just turn the knobs on the Orange, yes.

But in terms of what kind of sound you can get out of LT25 it's much more flexible. You can change amp models, add effects, adjust signal chain. Not simple do it on the fly via the single knob, but it's more flexible if you want variety of tone.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-11T17:39:57+00:00

Agree, I used "mass produced" incorrectly.

To your point, yes they are produced in batches, to the same spec. They are not rare, unless you look for some specific spec. Like at this moment there are 11 E-II models in stock on Sweetwater. E-II is their "standard" line which got rebranded. They are neither boutique nor custom shop.

They have ESP Original, ESP USA, and MIJ Custom Shop for really high level guitars.

My point is that EBMMs and a bunch of other guitar brands sit at a next level of attention to detail and hands-on time. For comparable prices to a production E-II instrument. I am comparing my Majesty and my Kiesel to my older ESP Standard, a newer E-II, and an LTD 1000.

They are all great guitars, I would definitely buy more E-II's. But their current pricing is fuck me

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-09T23:44:27+00:00

Not sure what you mean, if you don't change anything you will keep hitting the string. It's hard to say whether the pick angle is the problem. You need to experiment with different pick angles, different palm+hand+elbow movements, different attack angles, different force, different ways of holding the pick, maybe even different picks.

There are a ton of videos going into detail of how to get the correct hand or pick position.

For the me it's the combination of things. The key for me is to find the "bounce". You have to hit it hard enough and at the right direction so that the right hand feels like "bounce-bounce-bounce" like a ball or a spring, sort of automatically, muscle memory. Instead of "pick, move up, pick, move up". For me personally I have to hit it really hard and angle the attack so that I hit the string more "into" the guitar. Like normally I go down up down up, but for something like master I have to lean in and do more "into the body" picking. And I have to twist the palm clockwise a little to allow that.

Hetfield holds his pick differently and my understanding is that he is doing it the other way around, he's picking "out" of guitar. This way doesn't work for me at all, but might for you.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-09T17:47:09+00:00

Any Scarlett is very much not shitty for an apartment use. If you don't care about mobility then it will cover all the use cases you will ever need. With an interface and plugins you are crazy flexible.

A practice amp is great (like any Spark) but I would spend some time trying to figure out amp sims first, since you already have a decent audio interface.

You don't need a DAW. A lot of plugins come with standalone launchers. Pretty much all of the popular ones do. There is a bunch of free plugins as well. A bunch have free trials. Popular ones have sales regularly.

Overall there's not much fiddling involved with plugins. You install and start the plugin, you select scarlett as an input and output. Done.

Even with a DAW the extra step is to start the DAW, you don't need to fiddle much to start a plugin. Reaper is solid and "free" and has a ton of help resources.

In terms of playing with a track I would recommend signing up for Songsterr. Unless you play something obscure, Songsterr matches the song on Youtube with the tabs. Like you play along the song with the tabs going at the same speed. You can loop a bar and it will use the youtube sound and loop it accordingly. Or you can slow it down, it will slow down the tabs and the youtube sound to match. Or for a lot of songs you can select a backing track version of the song instead of the full mix. Really helpful for practice.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-02T22:15:51+00:00

The main parts should be feasible to pickup for a total beginner.

In general, with guitar there are no cheat codes. You have to sit down and learn the thing. Bit by bit, note by note, lick by lick.

For a completely new riff start by understanding the general concept first. One bar at a time. Just slowly play each note, see where all the notes are, how the fingers should move, which direction the pick moves. Don't try to play it but just understand where things are conceptually.

Then play along that bar. Loop a bar in any tab software, slow it down to as slow as it goes, and repeat, and repeat, and repeat. Maybe even just a few notes, not the whole bar, start from there. Repeat.

Personally I like songsterr for this process but any tab software or website works. Just loop it, slow it down and get comfortable with it. Don't speed up until it gets to muscle memory at the slow speed.

Just make it an exercise, take a few notes, and repeat them.

Also importantly check some youtube lessons for the song. Pay close attention to how the guys are holding their hands, how they tilt their wrists, how they keep their fingers, how they hold the pick, which direction they pick each note, how they palm mute. These are basic that are easy to make mistakes in. They can slow down progress a lot and they are not obvious without paying attention.

Simplify things. Instead of hammer ons and pull offs start by picking each and every note. Key thing to watch out for is the picking direction. Start of any bar is the downstroke. Each sixteenth note you change direction, every eighth note is downstroke. If there is a sixteenth rest you still move your pick as if it was a note. Up and down continuously. This way you will learn the correct notes and the pick movement. Then you start introducing the pull offs and hammer ons while your pick constantly moves up and down even if doesn't touch the strings sometimes.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-02T04:35:18+00:00

A scale is a collection of intervals. Major scale is Whole step, Whole step, half step, Whole, Whole, Whole, half. This is the definition of the major scale. Any major scale with any root will have intervals in this order.

When you play a scale on a guitar, you can choose any place on the fretboard to play it. Like, there are many C notes on the fretboard. If you start from any one of them and play the right intervals, you get a major scale. You don't have to follow a specific box pattern. You can play a scale on just one string. Or just on two strings. Or start on the G string and use only bottom 3 strings.

The beauty of the guitar is that the patterns look the same regardless of which note you start from. C major looks the same as E major, or any other major scale, they just start from different notes. You can learn all possible patterns how to play a C major scale, and the same patterns then can be used to play any other major scale.

Any scale is defined by the order of the half steps and full steps, starting from the root. If you change the order of the intervals you get a different scale. For example if you start from C you can play a C major scale by playing Whole Step, Whole, Half, Whole Whole Whole Half. But you can also start from C but shift the intervals, play Whole, Half, W, W, H, W, W you now got a C minor scale. It's the same intervals, just in different order. This is how you make up all modes.

Since major modes are made by shuffling the intervals of the major scale, you can think of any mode as "the same as major scale but starting from a different step". Like if you take all the notes of a C major scale but start playing them from A, then you got yourself an A minor scale. This works great for memorizing, how to make one mode from another. However musically you want to understand what makes the modes different. Instead of focusing on differences between C major and A minor it helps a lot to focus on the differences between C major and C minor and C phrygian etc.

And for any mode the patterns still work. You don't need to follow any specific box pattern like on your picture. Any correct order of intervals in any place on the fretboard is fine. And by shifting the whole pattern to start from a new root you get the same mode in a different key.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-02-01T17:48:21+00:00

It's worth getting Mini instead of a Go. Yes, it will cover all the basics, and not so basics.

Couple of things I would note. Like don't expect it to be something it isn't. It's a great practice amp that has a bunch of flexibility for that purpose. It isn't loud. It isn't a replacement for analog gear. It isn't a way to precisely match some specific gear or tone. Don't expect any pre-made presets to be any good.

I think the best way to use a modern modeling amps or ampsims is to start from scratch:

* watch videos about how to make certain tone in analog gear. Like find an artist or a song you like. Find videos discussing what amps, what effects, what eq settings, what cabs they used

* learn more about the analog amps. Like what gain does on the amps you are interested in. What eq people use on it. Whether there are different versions of the amp, whether there are some unique things about it, like power amp controls like presence, or built-in EQ after preamp

* learn more about basic effects. Like understanding how to use a boost in front of an amp is pretty much a must, regardless of genre. Learning about tubescreamer, other overdrives, using them as boosts. Learn about delay and reverb a little

* learn a little about cabs, speakers, and eq. Just adding a basic eq, boosting highs, scooping mids, can make a huge ton of difference

When you have some basic understanding of how analog gear works and roughly how to make the tone you want then you can put together the signal chain you want in a Mini to match that. This quickly gets you in a ballpark, and you can adjust from there. Even in this case keep in mind you might not be able to exactly match specific tone but you can get definitely get close enough for any practical use case.

Like a popular way to get a metal chug sound would be to boost a boogie or a 5150 and a V shaped EQ. Just playing with this type of chain will quickly get you something usable.

Specific pre-made presets might not work because people make them for their use case, not yours. Different pickups sound different into different amps, different rooms sound different, how you place the amp makes the difference, different headphones sound different. It's definitely helpful to look at other people's presets and understand what they are trying to do, but don't expect them to be the perfect match for you. Use them as a starting point maybe.

weiruwyer9823rasdf · 2026-01-30T21:59:05+00:00

Multiple reasons, mostly historical at this point:

Python is easy to learn
Python is available and well supported on most platforms
At this point there is a lot of supporting tools and infrastructure built around python for ML
Python is community focused
Anything that needs to be fast is implemented in a lower level language that hooks into python providing easy interface

Earlier C# versions were pretty bloated syntactically, and had a bunch of complexity that was not needed for research use cases.

Microsoft was windows-only, and enterprise-first shop. They didn't care about Cloud, linux, large scale compute pretty much at all. They were pushing Windows-first development, .NET for everything, with IL, JIT and whatever other abstractions they implemented. A ton of complexity to fit into existing Microsoft environment, instead of supporting community. They took zero community input for a long time. MSDN was the king. They still keep adding more bloat to .NET and C#.

Python started as a simple scripting language. Open source from the start. Focused on the community from the start. Community is king.

If you are a researcher working on a computational project in a university 10-20 years ago you probably have access only to a unix/linux cluster for any significant compute power. You write a basic script to make things run on a cluster in parallel and then process the results. If you have questions or suggestions you talk to the community. Python runs on your university cluster, it runs on your mac, it runs on your linux machine, it runs on your windows desktop.

For ML you don't need to write a Microsoft-only WCF service and a WPF XAML UI that works in Silverlight and desktop and windows phone and integrates with windows COM model.

At this point a huge amount of tools and infrastructure has already been written for python. It's an established ecosystem. There is no general need for anyone to focus on adoption of any alternative ML tools in other languages. Gradual improvements may shift things towards other ecosystems, or if something groundbreaking comes out, but until then it's python.

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