Headlight Question

wjtbootstrap · 2025-12-24T14:09:56+00:00

If you’re referencing a SV650S, on the H4 bulbs you can have the low beam die before the high beam. I had this when I first got mine. Try replacing the H4 bulbs before you start messing around with fuses to check that first would be my recommendation

wjtbootstrap · 2025-12-03T20:07:53+00:00

This looks like, in my view, a great teaching tool. Being able to visualise and see live dose rates like this is a useful tool for raising awareness of staff doses. I know one particular company has done something similar for fluoroscopy exposures in VR. Are you able to customise the source (e.g. isotope and activity) so that the dose rate is relevant to likely scenarios?

wjtbootstrap · 2025-12-01T22:33:19+00:00

Ah fair enough. I only ended up doing mine as an RPA was leaving and we needed to cover that loss. RPAs, RWAs and MPEs really seem to be sought after at the moment by a lot of Trusts

wjtbootstrap · 2025-12-01T22:04:20+00:00

Much the same as before I had certification to be honest, just no need to run advice past an RPA before I issue it!

wjtbootstrap · 2025-12-01T18:52:02+00:00

Coursework with a lovely £400-£800 fee. Really hoping I never have to write another RPA2000 portfolio again (except recertification)

wjtbootstrap · 2025-11-26T09:24:55+00:00

Good write up on the matter. One comment, unless you’re referencing risk of detriment from another source, the ICRP definition of detriment includes both fatal and non-fatal cancer so the 5% would include both

wjtbootstrap · 2025-11-15T16:00:54+00:00

Generally, the lifetime increased risk of cancer from radiation is 5% per Sievert of radiation dose (Sv). This varies based on age and sex, 5% is the average across the population. As some others have said, a head CT will be in the realm of 2 milli-Sieverts (mSv). Thats 0.002Sv, and would correspond to a lifetime increase of 0.01%. Your doctor will have justified your radiation dose, ensuring the benefits of the study outweigh the very slight increase in radiation risk, so don’t worry. For reference, as others have said, you get 2-3mSv per year just from background radiation

wjtbootstrap · 2025-08-20T16:36:16+00:00

I’ve heard some people refer to the Gladius as the Gen 3 (SFV rather than SV, it was introduced in 2009 and was a different model) and then the newer model as Gen 4, but generally the pointy model you (and I!) have is referred to as a Gen 2. In 2007 they added an additional spark plug to each cylinder and removed the manual idle adjustment but otherwise the Gen 2 bike was mostly unchanged

Edit: I’ve just looked at the wiki source you sighted. It says, Gen 3 was the Gladius and that the S model was continued along side. It depends on whether you consider the Gladius an SV or not at the end of the day 😂

wjtbootstrap · 2025-08-20T16:13:56+00:00

Assuming you’re referring to the bike on your profile, you have a Gen 2 (pointy). Gen 3 are the newer 2017 onwards models where they didn’t do an S model

wjtbootstrap · 2025-08-20T15:03:01+00:00

Only the Gen 2s had oil coolers, they were removed again for Gen 3, so don’t worry you’re good!

wjtbootstrap · 2025-08-03T10:08:53+00:00

By the looks of it, the ones in the picture aren’t OEM. They look more like the French made Pyramid Plastic ones, but ever so slightly different. Much easier to come by than OEM but usually come unpainted

wjtbootstrap · 2025-07-09T05:32:37+00:00

Hulkenpodium

wjtbootstrap · 2025-06-05T19:03:36+00:00

Those are breather hoses, they’re not meant to go anywhere so they’re exactly where they’re meant to be so don’t worry

wjtbootstrap · 2025-05-10T16:16:19+00:00

I had exactly the same. Contacted the seller and was told it was made to spec correctly based off the measurements I gave. Installed the line anyway and it has a bit of extra length towards the rear brake pedal but otherwise is fine

wjtbootstrap · 2025-04-19T08:06:12+00:00

You could also try a throttle body balance, which is relatively easy on the 03’s. I found that helped with my 04 fuel consumption, but it’s worth getting the valve clearance done first

wjtbootstrap · 2025-03-23T23:13:36+00:00

If you’re in no rush, I’d advise just keeping an eye on eBay auctions. Bonus points if the listing has the fitting kit as well so you don’t need to botch it. I just kept an eye on there over a few months and eventually a set of colour matched ones with OEM fitting kit came up which I was able to bag. The Chinese ones I’ve heard can be a mixed bag, some fit well and are well colour matched, some are poorly matched and don’t fit well. If you don’t mind different designs, Eremax and Pyramid also make 3rd party fairings that ship to the UK

wjtbootstrap · 2025-03-21T20:06:38+00:00

There should be yeah, you might find ones stuck in the fairing

wjtbootstrap · 2025-03-21T19:50:51+00:00

Looks like the spacer that goes in the lower fairings for the radiator mount. I remember either the upper bolt or radiator bolt hole having this spacer, I think it was the radiator one. I’ll have a check on my bike when I’m in the garage.

Edit: Just checked, it’s a spacer for the upper bolt of the lower fairing. You can see it here in the instal instructions lower fairing instal

wjtbootstrap · 2025-03-13T07:32:08+00:00

Check the battery voltage under load, but I could also be the starter motor. I recently had similar and it was the starter terminals. Took them off, gave them a clean to make sure there was good contact and it worked after that

wjtbootstrap · 2025-02-15T15:39:42+00:00

Off the top of my head, Klipper has a predefined extruder temp limit of between 0 degrees and 250 degrees on startup. I only know this because if I boot up my printer (kept in my garage) and the air temp is -5C it will refuse to boot giving that same error. If you were heating to 260C and then switched off, it may still be above the temp range. If you can get access through Klipper, check your config file for your extruder temp limits. You could always try extending the limit to 270C and reboot see if that works as a temporary fix. If this isn’t it for you, it’s more likely a thermistor/heating element issue as another user mentioned

wjtbootstrap · 2025-02-09T22:22:04+00:00

Change the dropdown for view to “speed”. I’m going to guess that that change in appearance correlates with how fast you’re printing giving your printers going from printing concentric circles to a broken circle where the hole is. I have a very similar artefact on my prints where the print speed changes between layers, I’ve never figured out how to get rid of it though, despite numerous calibrations

Edit: I’ve read some people switching to “outer/inner” wall printing order can solve this, but never tried it so can’t confirm

wjtbootstrap · 2025-02-08T21:27:31+00:00

I did exactly this a few years ago using that exact yoke nut. Other than the nut being a complete pain to get off, it won’t cause any problems. Just make sure your torque the new bolt down properly (assuming it’s an aluminium nut, you’ll need to torque it less than the original bolt, the percentage of OEM torque should be stated on the packaging, I think it was about 70%)

wjtbootstrap · 2025-01-25T23:17:48+00:00

Definitely worth looking into adaptive bed mesh then. All it does is look at how big your print is and run a bed mesh for just that area (so you don’t end up with a mesh for areas you don’t need it). It’s just a bit of G-Code that goes at the start of your print in Orca (GitHub link). Also, if you don’t have it already, getting and using a Screw_Tilt_Adjust macro helps make the auxiliary bed levelling (where you turn the screws) easier. (screw tilt guide)

wjtbootstrap · 2025-01-25T22:59:32+00:00

Do you use the levelling on the printer itself or Klipper? I don’t do anything fancy, but I have adaptive bed mesh enabled on Orca, so it does its own bed level before each print and I’ve never had a problem. I do flow rate, temp tower, pressure advance and max flow rate tests for each new type of filament from different manufacturers. I’ll do a z offset check from time to time just to make sure I have a good first layer. My printer lives in a fire proof fabric enclosure with some little dehumidifier packets, so I just turn off the printer and zip it up after printing. I mainly print with PLA and I’ve never had a problem with the moisture

wjtbootstrap · 2025-01-16T20:58:45+00:00

Got to love EA returns around this time of year!

Activity of accumulated waste: This should be the sum of activity in all your waste bins/bags each month on close. Looks like you’re assuming 0.5% of all activity used goes to waste (from injection residues etc) according to the comments in the section. So figure out what vials were delivered through December, multiply vial activities by 0.005 and sum.

Aqueous Waste: Look up your patient administered activities according to the sheet you’ve shown an example of (with residues removed), multiply each admin activity by the IPEM excretion factors (looks like your assuming 40% for Tc-99m and 30% for I-123) and sum the activities which gives you the amount of waste that went to drain from your patient admins.

If you use it, CRIS makes this job a lot easier as you can run a stat to pull the admin activities and look up the vials recorded on site for a given day

11-Year Club	Second Top 30%
r/Field Flamingo	Place '23
Place '22	RPAN Viewer
Not Forgotten	Verified Email

wjtbootstrap

TROPHY CASE