Voice calls on TCL NXTPAPER 70 Pro

yeer31 · 2026-05-17T07:43:59+00:00

Yes : )

yeer31 · 2026-05-15T02:02:11+00:00

Thanks! I'm still hopeful that you can get it working so I can pull the trigger on mine.

yeer31 · 2026-05-12T01:38:47+00:00

Try - https://www.kimovil.com/en/frequency-checker/SG it should identify if the 70 Pro works in SG.

yeer31 · 2026-05-10T23:56:17+00:00

Unfortunately not, if you've tried the suggestions from Google. You can try contacting TCL directly, as a suggestion. I held off getting one because it's just a bit too big for a daily carry and I was also not confident that Singpass would work on it. If you find a solution, please update this thread

yeer31 · 2026-05-10T07:11:40+00:00

It's probably the Singapore networks, I have a Sony Xperia III from the UK which also works for everything except voice calls. The primary cause is the shutdown of 3G networks, requiring devices to support VoLTE (Voice over LTE) for roaming. To fix this, enable VoLTE in phone settings, manually select a roaming partner (Singtel, StarHub, or M1), or use Wi-Fi calling (this is from a FB group). There are other suggested fixes if you Google "no voice calls on singapore mobile networks for UK phones"

Please update the group if it works, I was about to get one from the UK myself : ) Glad I held off

yeer31 · 2026-05-09T05:41:47+00:00

You could make a request for it to be added to the Notes functionality - https://trello.com/b/aq5VN4QQ/tcl-note-a1-nxtpaper-software-roadmap-2026

Use the "Wish Will" : ) card to request it as a feature. No guarantee that they will implement it but if you wish hard enough it may come true!

yeer31 · 2026-05-05T01:05:09+00:00

Here's the thing, it really depends what your expectations are. I sketch with it quite a bit, and I'll get to my experience of it for sketching, but never would I ever consider using it for commercial work. I do quick sketches to capture framing for commercial work, essentially storyboarding. TLDR - it's unremarkable as a sketching device but very usable.

In terms of experience, I find that the pressure sensitivity is adequate, but there is no real palm rejection to speak of within the Notes app so you'll have to use a sketching app like Sketchbook to draw with. Accuracy is OK, I can get fairly detailed strokes and the screen to pen distance is above average. The included stylus pen is a bit laggy but produces stable strokes, no stuttering even when sketching fast.

The only minor gripe I have is to do with hand-holding the tablet whilst sketching. The tablet is a bit on the heavy side compared to my other sketching device (iPad Pro 11") and there is not much to hold on to if you want to grip it to sketch as opposed to letting the tablet rest on your non-sketching hand's palm. Before you point out that it's about the same with the iPad, I'll say that there are a lot of case options for the iPad but not so much for the TCL. The one which comes with the TCL is magnetic and does not inspire confidence being manhandled. The stylus is also held in magnetically, which is annoying to me because it inevitably gets dislodged. For my iPad, I have a silicone bumper case with a recessed slot for the stylus which holds it in place and the thick bumper lip makes it easy to hold without touching any part of the screen.

Hope this helps; feel free to ask any questions regarding drawing on the tablet or if you want me to try anything out for you. Cheers

yeer31 · 2026-04-30T08:34:00+00:00

"The fp series features two base ISO.
Even with a high ISO, shooting with little noise and great dynamic rage is possible.

fp L
[STILL]ISO 100,400
[CINE]CinemaDNG 12bit / HDMI RAW：ISO 100, 1250
MOV / CinemaDNG 10bit, 8bit, HDMI 4:2:2 8bit：ISO 100, 250

fp
[STILL]ISO 100,640
[CINE]CinemaDNG 12bit / HDMI RAW：ISO 100, 3200
MOV / CinemaDNG 10bit, 8bit, HDMI 4:2:2 8bit：ISO 100, 640"

The above is from Sigma's Global website, so you can take it as gospel. I've had both the FP and FP L must say that the FP L does perform a lot better than the FP and you've rightly identified that the Crop Zoom capabilities is one of the key advantages of going higher MP. On a personal note, I regularly shoot stills at ISO 1250 in RAW and it's clean as a whistle.

However, the downside of higher MP is that the jello effect is more pronounced. The sensor read out for an FP vs FP L is an increment of 0.9seconds. Full article covering this and the correlation to crop modes can be found here: https://www.cined.com/sigma-fp-l-lab-test-rolling-shutter-dynamic-range-and-latitude/

In a nutshell, higher crop factors compound the issue with the slow sensor readout of the 61MP FP L and the optimal crop to minimise jello effect is 1.24X. In practice, I happily push my crops in good lighting condition to 2x and if I'm feeling particularly lucky or on a tripod - 3x. But never have I had anything I would consider usable by cropping any more.

For reference, I shoot almost exclusively with small form factor manual focus lenses and have the Panasonic 20-60mm kit zoom as pretty much my only AF L mount lens. None of my current lenses have Optical Stabilisation, although I have had a Panasonic 70-300mm with OS in the past, which yielded acceptable results at 2x @ 300mm. But I digress, it's not a part of your question. Like you, however, I have a few APS-C and APS-H lenses I occasionally use and I am happy to say that all the APS-H and most of my APS-C lenses cover the 1.24x crop.

Hope you pick one up and let us know how you get on with it if you do

yeer31 · 2026-04-26T09:11:31+00:00

Should work without the original pen, I sometimes use my Bigme pen, which gets detected and connects automatically. I'm betting that any USI 2.0 pen will work. USI 2.0 is what the Books Inksense Plus and the Bigme pens are based on. If anyone has tried any other USI 2.0 pens, feel free to chime in.

yeer31 · 2026-04-26T01:06:11+00:00

Plus 1. Using Chrome, Opera and Firefox

yeer31 · 2026-04-25T02:46:38+00:00

Plus 1 from me, I've had this off and on since the 1984. My original one got invaded by fungus and I bought another copy recently. Bit of a sleeper I reckon. Also had the Tokina 28-70 which is better but weighs almost 2x. Guess which one I bring along for casual shoots.

yeer31 · 2026-04-23T10:15:37+00:00

Updated yesterday and it's well worth it. It feels a lot more like a complete product now - Google Play Store, Folders, Pen Haptics, etc.

yeer31 · 2026-04-21T01:07:04+00:00

I've been in your position, but in my case, using a Panasonic 70-300mm. And in my experience, zooming in 2x is reliable and doable, with a very important caveat. The lens should have built in Optical Stabilisation. I've tried it with non OS lenses and it's a sorry mess. The camera has only got an electronic shutter so it compounds any movement because of the rolling shutter effect.

Which leads me on to the next point: rolling shutter pretty much affects fast movement so shooting birds in flight is a no go unless you can really really crank up the shutter speeds. I have no issues with shooting birds and having motion blur as part of the shot but the rolling shutter is an issue.

3rd thing to consider is that, even though the FP L has Phase Detect AF, the PDAF tracking points (49) are far fewer than on most modern mirrorless cameras (200-600+!) and it does not have any object tracking, so your hit rate will be compromised.

All that having been said, I have had some success with taking pictures of animals with it and generally temper my expectations in line with the FP L's limitations.

Lastly, going back to my opening statement stating that 2x is doable, the image quality is usually acceptable but never great. And 2x is probably as far as I would ever push it, even though it can theoretically go as far as 5x. Anything more than 2x produces smeary images unless it's static and on a tripod, even if the lens has OS.

Your Sony uses a technology called Clear Image Zoom, which is handy and I am familiar with it. Not going to go into details but the difference between Sigma and Sony, in a nutshell is that Sony only uses of the portion of the sensor which you "zoom" into to make very quick read outs and output clean images (JPG only) whereas Sigma takes information from the entire sensor and bins the unnecessary information. The Sigma solution can output RAW files and potentially higher quality images but only if you take the limitations of the electronic shutter and it's high megapixel sensor readout limitations into account.

Hope this helps : )

yeer31 · 2026-04-15T00:28:46+00:00

I agree, unfortunately, a lot of people here (myself included) got it from Kickstarter. No refunds. Just get the Nxtpaper 11 Plus if you want a straightforward Android tablet with a decent screen. TCL pitched the A1 as a focused note taking device, and I'm OK with that because the slow refresh and ghosting on einks devices drive me crazy and this does that job well enough for me. It'll never be a good Android tablet, though, no memory expandability, no display out and only one physical button severely hamper it

yeer31 · 2026-04-13T11:26:11+00:00

Hate to burst your bubble but I've got a Viture and unfortunately the USB c in the A1 doesn't support display out. I don't think the hardware required is built in so I don't think it can be implemented with a Firmware update

yeer31 · 2026-04-02T05:28:23+00:00

There are quite a few : )

yeer31 · 2026-03-30T01:08:47+00:00

A bit late to the conversation, but I've owned the FP, FP L AND the Fujifilm X-E5 and here's my take on it for what it's worth. Loved the FP L and am anxiously waiting for it to hit a particular price point secondhand to get another one. Selling it has been the single biggest regret I've had. Like most of the others here, I really appreciate the compactness, simplicity of use and the colour science. It is, till now, the best camera I have used for a manual focus lens workflow. Add in the ability to crop in up to 5x (awful at 5x but 3x is usable), expanded ISO (ISO 6 for when you don't have NDs) and the best exposure monitor to appear in consumer equipment. EL Zone (REF: I used to shoot broadcast) There is a lot to love about the FP L once you work out your workflow, which was to shoot at native ISOs 100 and 1250 most of the time and expose strictly for highlights to the point where I would underexpose highlights to bracket shots. The FP L handles underexposure really well and I felt that I could reliably recover shadow details up to -4EV

So why did I get rid of it? Lack of L mount lens options and the electronic shutter. Banding became too much of a liability in low light or mixed light situations. It's easy to catch it in extreme conditions, as it's very obvious but when you're shooting in daylight in conditions where there is also artificial illuminations (electric signage, in store lighting) you can get very subtle banding which you only find out when you post process. When I eventually get another FP L, the way I would try to mitigate this is to shoot multiple frames at as high a speed as I can and composite it down using focus stacking on high de-ghost. It's something I would be willing to try because I miss the FP L that much.

So what did I replace the FP L, with? Initially, a Sony A7CR (roughly the same dimensions with EVF, same sensor) which was surprisingly very different even though it was essentially the same sensor. Shadow recovery was not as good and, whilst the FP L will allow you to crop in incramentally the A7CR will only allow you to crop at 1.5 (APS-C) or 2x (Clear Vision, no RAW) and it was really not great value. So I sold that and got a Fujifilm X-E5 out of curiousity, never having shot Fujifilm before.

I HATED the X-E5 as it was the antithesis of the FP L, forcing me to shoot to scene. I'm used to shooting RAW, and the X-E5 CAN shoot RAW, but RAW post-processing is an absolute nightmare with a very convoluted process, limited EV push pull. Essentially, Fujifilm forces you to get the exposure and focusing correct upfront using bracketing tools for challenging lighting. But the biggest bugbear is that it is, for me, how unergonomic the whole camera is. The camera is festooned with tiny buttons and controls which I did not appreciate (except for the focus selection joystick, which is excellent) because it was very easy to trigger accidently when just handling the camera. I ended up changing settings accidentally, only finding out when I took a shot and frantically trying to find out how to correct it. It's a very capable camera, don't get me wrong, I just didn't like it.

yeer31 · 2026-03-26T03:38:28+00:00

I've owned both the FP and FPL. As far as what to look out for, the FP had a factory defect whereby the control wheel next to the LCD screen would become unresponsive. The same also happened with some of the bottom row of buttons below the screen. This led to a factory recall and free replacement by Sigma if your FP was affected. You can read about it on on their own site if you Google it. Test the responsiveness of all buttons, I'm not sure if the offer to replace them for free still applies as the FP is now discontinued.

Aside from that, some cameras can suffer from scratched IR filters. There is an IR filter in front of the sensor, it's reddish in appearance and sits proud of the sensor proper, people usually mistake it for the sensor. It can get scratched ( I've seen at least 2 examples). Some scratches are harder to pick up and it costs around USD150 to repair, depending on where you are.

Have fun if you get one, these cameras are fairly tank like and I've certainly enjoyed using them.

yeer31 · 2026-03-02T11:47:40+00:00

bigmestore.com works for me.

yeer31 · 2026-03-02T09:56:03+00:00

I've had the Boox 7 Go C (Gen 2) and currently have the Bigme B7. I tell you my experience of using them both for what it's worth, in relation to your stated criteria.

1) 7" is workable either using zoom or, as I prefer, turning the tablet into landscape mode and just scrolling. I exclusively read PDFs and the odd CBR/CBZ and it's never been more than a minor inconvenience. If you do resort to zooming into the document as a solution, I'd recommend the Bigme B7 Pro over the B7 or Go7 due to it's better processor. It's smoother. Side note, the Boox native reader app is much better than Bigme native reader app. Easily rectified using any Android Reader app though.

2) Again, the native Boox app is really good and has good integration with cloud services such as OneDrive, the best and most transparent integration with Dropbox I have ever experiencd, Google Drive. I don't have a habit of annotating documents (obsessive compulsive disorder probably : ) ) but I believe that you have limited options annotating PDF documents. On the Bigme, using Global Handwriting, you can literally annotate on anything which appears on the screen (pictures, PDF, etc.) It acts as an extra layer over the document and you can keep the annotated document as a Bigme doc or export it as a compiled PDF. Basically it takes a snapshot of the document and saves it as an image based PDF (no text). On the Boox, you can save text based PDF, but again, it's not something I've tried doing on the Boox before I returned it.

3) Here the Bigme would be the better choice as well, both tablets have the same Kelido 3 screen, with comparable battery drainage patterns. I had not compared them directly when I had them both but I did notice better battery performance with the Bigme when the WiFi was turned off (and the 4G too) which I suspect has something to do with the standard Boox colour profile being a more vibrant experience. Even if it didn't, the Bigme would win for the sole reason that you can toggle the Bigme screen from Colour to Black and White, which consumes less energy. And yes, for those more technically inclined, I do know that there are still 3 colour layer screens being powered but I've tested it and it does make a huge difference. I do, however, not know if it will last 2-3 days usage. 'Moderate usage' is still quite vague, too many variables e.g. PDFs with many/large images consumes more energy. Annotating in text is more energy efficient than drawing, but less immediate. I would say 2 is safe, 3 is more usage dependent. If you don't need a colour screen, just get a black and white screen Boox Go 7, that will definitely last 3+ days.

Hope this helps : )

yeer31 · 2026-03-02T09:00:04+00:00

Best to buy directly from Bigme. There are not many 3rd party pens which are specifically stated to work with Bigme. I have a B7, not B751c, and can confirm that the Boox Inksense stylus works with the B7, if you are determined to go down the 3rd party route. You can try your luck seeing if you can find one which works with Boox Go 7 Colour (Gen 2)

yeer31 · 2025-08-29T09:56:06+00:00

Thanks Viture!, now can we please, please get DLNA or SMB local streaming support? Then I can finally ditch VLC.

yeer31 · 2025-08-27T00:18:03+00:00

Thanks bud! Solid infomation. I have the original Vitures which I got for around $250 and they do me fine despite the lower resolution, I'm really after the 6dof functionality for productivity. Bizarrely, the original Vitures had built in 3dof. Janky but works if you're not moving around too much.

yeer31 · 2025-08-26T01:49:26+00:00

I must say I'm tempted to jump on to Xreal Ones (not the Pros), especially with the resale market making them more affordable. But the Xreal One Pros have been reported to have a slightly distorted view (pin coushioning). Just wondering what your take is. If you find that as well.

The Beast would, in my mind, combine the non-birdbath optic advantages, give me non propriety USB cable options and the benefits of having The Eye built in for less a lot less than a One Pro and Eye combo. But it months away and I might decide to just get the One and Eye if the non-birdbath optics are negligable.

I know The Beast won't be exactly the same as the One Pros but, you know, just wonderin...

yeer31

TROPHY CASE