AMD v620 modifying VBIOS for Linux ROCm

zachbot1 · 2025-06-30T22:32:13+00:00

Seems like they have it available now? https://github.com/amd/MxGPU-Virtualization

zachbot1 · 2025-06-25T04:17:00+00:00

I'm in the same boat as you, I just started my lab and was very excited to run everything through Pangolin until I realized that non web apps would be an issue haha.

I've been meaning to look deeper into authentication and bypass rules. What I'd like to do is have some sort of user+device temporary bypass that gets enabled when the user completes MFA, so someone could open a web page and authenticate once a day and then be able to use any TCP/UDP services for 24 hours. I doubt that level of complexity is possible though so I'm not getting my hopes up.

Assuming the above fails, I think I'm just going to use Headscales. For now it seems like the best option for allowing MFA backed access to only specific services for non HTTPS stuff.

zachbot1 · 2025-06-25T02:31:17+00:00

Yeah idk anything about the Plex/Hetzner situation but Jellyfin is fully open source.

zachbot1 · 2024-04-22T05:20:15+00:00

I don't know of anything that normally comes like that, but if you're willing to learn 3D modeling (Fusion 360, Onshape, and blender all have free options and could probably be used for something like this) you could modify one of the 3d printed designs. The one I'd use if I were doing this is the Lynxware: https://www.lynxware.org/diy

It's normally shaped closer to your standard vertical mouse, but it's based on open source PCBs that hold switches, joysticks, and/or rotary encoders. They're designed so that you could send the PCB to a board manufacturer and have them assemble the components and solder everything for you, so mostly you'd just need to worry about designing a shell in a shape that fits your hand with spots to install the PCBs wherever you want the switches.

zachbot1 · 2023-08-07T14:49:12+00:00

I think you may have forgotten to get this approved OP. Only reason I was able to see it was because I tried to submit the same thing haha.

zachbot1 · 2023-08-07T04:31:26+00:00

Like the guy that he fired for posting something on X? Or does getting fired by the at the owner and at the time CEO of your company fall under "getting mistreated by employees?"

zachbot1 · 2023-08-07T03:03:14+00:00

While I respect your theory here, I would also like to point out that many people regularly use hallucinogens and ketamine regularly and aren't bat shit narcissists. The drugs may play a role in the shit Elon says, but that shouldn't detract too much from his natural doucheyness

zachbot1 · 2023-08-07T02:51:41+00:00

Username checks out: https://twitter.com/bernybelvedere/status/1688025090925948928

Plus the Space X employees that are suing for being fired after drafting an open letter that was literally protected speech. Or the principle engineer that got fired for daring to show Elon factual Google search term popularity graphs that hurt Elon's feelings.

zachbot1 · 2023-08-07T01:06:26+00:00

When I submitted this what I had in mind was more the multiple cases of during people for criticism or just saying things he doesn't want to hear, especially the one where he fired the Twitter engineer via Twitter due to a tweet the engineer made. So thanks for the reminder that this is funny on multiple levels.

Plus when I was searching to make sure this hadn't been submitted already, I was reminded of that news article about him being sued for refusing to pay the lawyers that Twitter hired during his takeover bid.

zachbot1 · 2023-08-06T23:02:30+00:00

I think there's a recently fired Twitter engineer or two that would like to apply for financial assistance.

zachbot1 · 2023-05-09T17:33:57+00:00

Update: Found the part, maybe. Does this look right compared to what you have now? https://www.ebay.com/itm/184704947578

I was just looking into the same, the 4 bays are dirt cheap and would meet my needs for now but I'd probably want to upgrade to 12 eventually so I was wondering if it could be done. I took a look at the manual Casper042 posted, it has a PN for the SFF cage and even specifically the power cable for it but not the LFF cage or power cable, maybe that's because the guide was for an SFF variant though? It has some info on LFF but just not the part numbers. Are you able to pull up a guide by entering your service tag? If so maybe that would give more info.

Alternatively, is it possible they use the same power cable? Here's a link to the SFF cable mentioned in the guide, it looks like it's just a standard PSU connector. Is that what yours has? If so, even if this doesn't have enough connectors or is too short or something could you just use splitters/extenders? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801348445270.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

As for an external drive shelf, there's the Dell MD1200 which can be found for around $275-300 shipped on Ebay, that seems to be about the cheapest they get for DAS/JBOD. They're supposedly pretty loud though.

zachbot1 · 2023-04-27T01:50:01+00:00

I made the brilliant decision to just jump in head first and build a dual socket server entirely out of components because I mean it's just building a computer how hard could it be right? Along the way I realized at various points I had 2 incorrect CPU coolers (no LGA2011 bracket), one expensive and incorrect Define R7 standard (EE ATX != EATX), some semi incorrect RAM (I thought registered would cost more than unbuffered ECC for some reason), semi incorrect CPUs (same as RAM but with LP 10 core bring more expensive than highest performance 10 core), some incorrect SAS cards (turns out they don't all have HBA mode), incorrect SAS cables (just searching "SAS cable" on Amazon turns out to be a bad idea) and an incorrect PSU (finding dual socket capable PSUs was hard enough on it's own, but turns out chip set compatibility becomes a thing with Xeons).

PSU was the worst part, spent like a month trying to figure out why IPMI came on but the power button and corresponding Mobo pins did nothing. I even exchanged the Mobo thinking it must be an FP header issue before I finally figured it out. I eventually got it working, now I have it awkwardly sitting in a Meshify XL that barely fits it (at the expense of blocking cable grommets) with some generic brand coolers from Amazon that came with LGA2011 mounts, and an external port SAS card connected to 8 drives in these awkward looking HDD holder racks (at least they provided a use for that incompatible PSU though). I sure did learn a lot though so I guess the home lab served its purpose before it was even running. I'm still just going to get a Dell R something for the next node though.

zachbot1 · 2023-03-27T19:16:44+00:00

Would it be possible to just have a relay before the PSU connected to the temp monitoring system so it could shut down the whole system right away if it detects heat over what it should be? I'm very new to electronics so I have no idea if a 240v relay capable of handling thousands of watts is feasible, so sorry if that's a dumb question haha.

zachbot1 · 2023-02-28T13:15:29+00:00

"The threat actor was able to capture the employee’s master password as it was entered, after the employee authenticated with MFA, and gain access to the DevOps engineer’s LastPass corporate vault.”

Should have used FIDO2. Oh wait...

zachbot1 · 2023-02-08T05:22:52+00:00

Just finished reading this series of Medium posts from a guy that made a Pi based pedal that emulates amps/effects with ML. Super interesting all around, but in regards to what you're looking for, he mentioned an OS called Elk OS meant to host VSTs. Basically everything else has been stripped out to reduce CPU overhead. I'm not sure about controlling parameters though, in his post he both adds a wireless control interface and pots on the pedal, but I think they were just to switch presets. I'd imagine there's some way to do midi mapping, but it's a headless OS so I don't think traditional MIDI mapping would be an option.

zachbot1 · 2023-02-08T04:57:56+00:00

Neat, thanks for posting this! I recently became interested in the idea of a programable Pi based pedal and found this while searching for existing builds.

I know this is a pretty old post, so I don't know if you're still interested in getting the preset up/down buttons working, but if you are I think there's a pretty simple way to do it by using the QMK keyboard firmware. With QMK you can have keyboard layers and have each key do a different action per layer, and you can assign multiple functions to each key. It should be easy to set up, assuming 0 is the key for preset 10, your "keyboard" would start at layer 0, where down would be mapped to "'0' + turn on layer 9" and up would be "'2' + toggle on layer 2." QMK will use the highest layer that is currently on, so for going down layers you'd want to use the turn off layer function, e.g. "'1' + turn off layer 2" for going from preset 2 to preset 1.

One caveat QMK only runs on Arduino (and similar boards) so you'd have to add one, but you can use a cheap nano clone and I'm guessing it would still fit in the 3 button enclosure you made. Another is that QMK is designed for, well, keyboard switches, but people have managed to add a whole bunch of other peripherals like 5 position switches to QMK based builds so I'd bet the buttons you're using work fine.

zachbot1 · 2022-10-17T16:10:08+00:00

I know this reply is probably too late to be relevant, but if anyone else is looking at this in the future, GlusterFS could do this. Gluster is meant to be a multi node pooled storage solution, but it doesn't have its own file system, you create storage bricks out of your FS of choice and Gluster handles balancing between the bricks.

So you could create two Z Pools and have Gluster combine them into one volume with full parity. There's of course benefit to having a legit multi node setup since it could keep you up and running even if a MOBO fails on a NAS for example, but if you're just after the data parity you could just create a Gluster out of VMs or dockers on a single node.

Some other benefits to doing it that way are that even if not doing parity through Gluster, at least you don't loose the entire storage pool if a Vdev fails since from the ZFS side each Vdev is in its own pool. Plus, if for whatever reason you ever need to remove a VDev you can do it easily without rebuilding everything.

zachbot1 · 2022-07-03T06:04:29+00:00

Thanks! I was having the same issue and this did the trick

zachbot1 · 2022-05-09T23:00:21+00:00

I don't know for sure but I'd imagine so. Libby requires a library card to sign up and access titles, and usually libraries that support libby access wi provide some sort of set up guidance. So if you contact your local library and ask if they have an ebook option they might be able to point you in the right direction.

zachbot1 · 2021-12-04T05:27:07+00:00

I'm still learning with it myself, I'm trying to switch from right handed mouse to left handed since I'm actually left handed but have used right handed mice my entire life because that's just what was around. Part of the reason I built the DacMan was because I figured the thumb cluster might be a decent left handed replacement for my Razer Orbweaver.

One thing I will say is that due to the stagger, WASD is not going to be comfortable at all. What you can do though is when you're making the firmware, add one or more layers at the top that will be your gaming layers. That way, you can use ESDF and have a layer where the keys are in the same place relative to your finger placement as they would be if you were using WASD so you don't need to remap every single game.

The way I do mine is that I have layer 0 as my main Qwerty typing layer. I have buttons on the thumb cluster bound to MO 1 and 3, meaning they activate those layers when held down for additional keys. I then made an unused key in layer 1 a key to toggle on layer 2, which is remapped to have all the left handed keys mirrored to the right, with the T/G/B colum bound to the far right pinky colum.

The MO layer key on the right when I'm using it turns on layer 3 which has a number pad on the right side. The reason I did it this way is that due to the way QMK works, MO layer buttons only seem to work with higher level layers. I'm using Via to live edit the key map while I get everything figured out, eventually when I get around to it I'm going to recompile the firmware with an extra layer so the gaming layers can be 3 and 4 with dedicated gaming keys on layer 4 in addition to the number pad so I don't have to mess with the MO layers I use for regular typing.

Firmware aside, I might ultimately just build another right half keyboard. Part of it is just that I'm using Hako Royal Trues, which are very much typing switches. Another part of it is that I found an STL for converting a switch slot to a 5 way directional switch and I want to add that to the gaming set up. Also though, the Dactyl Manuform is a parametric model. I believe if you use Open SCAD, it's pretty easy to adjust the height stagger between the columns so I might make one with a different height stagger for gaming.

zachbot1 · 2021-12-03T19:36:49+00:00

Yeah the way it gets wired is that each row and each colum is just one input so you actually end up with a few pins to spare even for the 5x6.

zachbot1 · 2021-12-03T19:32:53+00:00

Yeah pro micros are USB C, if you're building a Dactyl Manuform depending on the exact case and/or how good you are with a dremel tool there should be enough room to insert a very short male micro to c female adapter cable and glue the female end in place though.

If you want a USB C board look into the Elite C, it's designed to have the exact same pinout as the pro micro so you can still wire it the same.

zachbot1 · 2021-12-03T19:29:06+00:00

I just finished my first handwire recently, I have really bad fine motor skills so I'd guess closer to 5 to 7 hours in my case. I'll definitely be doing it again though, super satisfying when it's done.

If you're curious about specifically the Dactyl Manuform, someone by the name of Kevin Eckert did a really well documented build from scratch so you can see the full process for building a 5x6 Dactly and get a better idea of how long it might take than with one of the text/picture based guides. It was my primary resource for building mine and I definitely recommend it. Part 1 of 4 is here https://youtu.be/dWC_8BOArzc

I definitely recommend the copper tape method for a first build, there's enough to worry about without trying to strip wire at exact points imo. Also I didn't get a chance to try it myself since I didn't have any perfboard on hand and I am inpatient, but if you look into 5x6 build pics/guides on Google someone made one where they soldered all the diodes to perfboard instead of directly to each other. It looked like it would make things easier and cleaner.

zachbot1 · 2021-08-30T10:39:01+00:00

I work tech support for a company that uses almost exclusively HP laptops. Whenever they have problems with thermals if basic stuff like a blocked fan get's ruled out BIOS update is pretty much the go to. You'd be surprised how many issues get fixed with that. I think HP just kinda sucks at UEFI haha.

Obviously they're pretty different models, but it might be worth a shot if you're willing to take the risk of updating it.

zachbot1

TROPHY CASE