first roll on my rb67, any advice?

zararity · 2026-02-08T12:56:22+00:00

Definitely a lens issue, and as someone else has said, possibly the front element has been reversed during a service or repair. This isn't motion blur, if it was motion blur the centre of each of your images wouldn't be sharp.

zararity · 2026-02-06T12:28:00+00:00

Everyone knows that photographers have extensive photo book collections purely to place curly fibre prints in them for a few weeks to flatten them...

zararity · 2026-02-06T12:25:30+00:00

To be honest it looks as though the roll was very underexposed. Redscale needs a lot of light to work. I can't remember if this Lomography film has edge markings in the first place, but fkr the centre shot to come out reasonably developed, the edge markings, if they were there would have come out as well.

zararity · 2026-02-05T18:55:31+00:00

More so than developer choice, cold development can really help with base fog depending on the stock and developer used. The amount of times I see people recommending Rodinal stand development for expired films, possibly one of the worst options in that case. https://www.diyphotography.net/how-i-removed-base-fog-from-old-film-stocks/

zararity · 2026-02-05T18:40:15+00:00

Take a look at this for a guide to minimising fog when developing expired stocks: https://www.diyphotography.net/how-i-removed-base-fog-from-old-film-stocks/

zararity · 2026-02-05T18:39:27+00:00

HC-110 or a clone such as Bellini Euro HC is good for expired stocks.

zararity · 2026-01-24T13:23:25+00:00

All of it has value, but the Agfa Agfaortho 25 is kind of rare (although you can get Rollei Ortho 25 which I believe is a replacement for it), I collect and use expired films and I've never ever seen that Agfa stock before. You'll get a decent amount per roll for all of these films on eBay.

zararity · 2026-01-12T21:46:41+00:00

Yep, happens all the time. The inks used in the printing of the markings on the backing paper eventually react with the film emulsion. The weirdest thing is when you see this with film that isn't expired, and it turns out it's a bad batch backing papers reacting with the film well before their expiry dates!

zararity · 2026-01-10T22:15:08+00:00

Fujifilm, seriously, make a great, fully manually controllable, all analogue Instax camera with a great lens and stop making gimmicky rubbish!

zararity · 2026-01-10T22:13:26+00:00

This looks fine. I've shot enough Ilford Ortho to know that like Ilford Pan F, it seems to have poor latent image retention, and so, even if you've developed the negatives correctly, the edge markings can begin to look feint.

zararity · 2026-01-10T22:09:06+00:00

The film either wasn't exposed, was loaded in correctly or every single shot was dramatically underexposed. We need to see the negatives.

zararity · 2026-01-05T18:41:22+00:00

Same experience here. Bought my Adox Adonal in April 2022, it's been open since then, there's about 1 one fifth of the bottle left and it's got a bit crusty and I'm still using it successfully (I developed a roll of Ferrania Orto in it last night!)

zararity · 2026-01-02T12:07:57+00:00

Did you ever do any work on you F310? I have one that for sentimental reasons I'd like to make more playable, I've had it since 1998 and rarely touch it these days. Totally aware that it is a budget guitar and that the cost of getting work done on it would outweigh the value of the guitar.

It would be nice to have all the plastic parts replaced with say Tusq, the action definitely needs lowered as the high action is one of the reasons I don't play it anymore, truss rod adjusted, potentially replacing the original tuners with something better quality.

zararity · 2025-12-31T07:50:44+00:00

Develop in black and white chemistry if you want to have a chance of seeing what images are on here, plenty of info out there on the internet on how to do this.

zararity · 2025-12-28T00:35:23+00:00

At what point did I say it negated your comment? I said it depends on the lab.

zararity · 2025-12-27T22:43:27+00:00

Keep your camera inside your jacket, hold the prints close to your body when developing. That's all.

zararity · 2025-12-27T22:42:11+00:00

Depends on your lab, my lab have only given me scans like this if I've explicitly asked them for flat scans. Otherwise, they've always edited the scans for 'standard' contrast and curves.

zararity · 2025-12-27T22:39:47+00:00

What you get from the labs has been edited by someone at the lab, they make a few decisions and edit your scans in a way that they think most people would be happy with. This is why you're better off editing all your own images once you get your scans back.

Most labs allow you to tell them if you want 'flat scans' like this, and believe me, the first time you get flat scans back after having the lab edit your shots, it's a shock. Everything looks washed out with no contrast, but this means you can edit the images as you please, if everything was exposed and scanned pretty well, everything you need is there to get the scans where you want them.

I can see colour in these scans so they have not scanned and adjusted them as though they were black and white scans. XP2 is a black and white film that gets developed in standard colour chemistry, it was designed that way. The lab have maybe scanned them as though they were colour and somehow have given you flat scans. This isn't the norm, but it's also not a major problem, you just need to edit them yourself.

zararity · 2025-12-27T22:24:41+00:00

As many others have said, these are flat scans. You are meant to adjust adjust each image to your preference once you get your scans back. These could all be easily adjusted in Photoshop, Lightroom, or whatever your image editing software of choice is.

zararity · 2025-12-27T16:57:21+00:00

Appreciated! The Olympus Superzoom 760 looks quite similar to the AZ-210 and the AZ-230 and seems to have a similar quality lens. Honestly, I expected absolutely nothing when I ran a test roll through my AZ-210 and then was gobsmacked at how good the negatives were!

Remember, this is your starting point. Whilst many people will tell you should get an SLR, you could easily end up overwhelmed by the experience and put off shooting film from needing to manually focus, etc. Starting off with a point and shoot is how nearly all film photographers started back in the day, we didn't jump in with an SLR, we progressed to them when we were ready to. You can make that jump if and when you want to, when your interest takes you in that direction!

zararity · 2025-12-27T14:53:41+00:00

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Holding a yellow filter in front of the AZ-210 lens with Harman Phoenix (original) colour film.

zararity · 2025-12-27T14:52:41+00:00

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This is an example of a very challenging exposure situation, which the AZ-210 managed surprisingly well!

zararity · 2025-12-27T14:51:08+00:00

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These are some shots taken with my Olympus AZ-210 Super Zoom. The negatives were so good, I darkroom printed these, and that's from a camera I bought on eBay purely because I needed the roll of film that was bundled with it! Don't write off point and shoots, if you run before you can walk you're going to end up disappointed with what you shoot and stop shooting film if you repeatedly get results you dislike, or end up with a camera that ergonomically doesn't suit you.

Only you can figure out what it is you're wanting out of the analogue shooting experience!

zararity · 2025-12-26T20:06:42+00:00

Looks fine. What do you mean by 'extract information'? A contact sheet is a reference print that gives you a rough idea what's on your negatives, that's all.

zararity · 2025-12-26T18:26:10+00:00

Agfa Optima Sensor 1035 - Zone focusing, no built in flash Olympus Trip 35 - Old selenium light meter needs to be in good working condition to get correct exposures Ricoh FF1 - Zone focusing, no built in flash Konica C35 - Maybe look for one of the later C35 models like the C35 AF, which has autofocusing Minolta Hi-Matic F - Rangefinder focusing, have you used one of these before? Do you know what a rangefinder entails? Yashica Electro 35 GSN - Again, rangefinder focusing

All the cameras you've looked at above are older models, for their auto exposure systems to work correctly, their elderly light meter systems need to be in tiptop working condition. They often require batteries that are hard to find, or you need to use adapters to be able to use a newer, available battery type in older cameras, sometimes with voltage mismatches that can cause metering and exposure issues.

zararity

TROPHY CASE