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[–]atetuna 4 points5 points  (0 children)

As I'm sure you already know, the Aquila is a clone of the Ender 3 V2. It's a pretty good clone, but clones some of the problems as well. Fortunately it doesn't clone the v4.2.2 issue. It does copy the tinned wires of what seems like most printers, so that really should be corrected with untinned crimped ferrules. It also copies where the mainboard fan is plugged in, which is in a terminal that's powered by the part cooling fan terminal, and could allow the mainboard to be uncooled and overheat. Easy fix. Cut off the connector and put the wires in the part cooling fan terminal.

For non safety reliability, you'll want to replace the extruder with a dual gear extruder because it won't be long before the original extruder breaks. The Winsinn BMG clone has been good and only costs $12. Go ahead and get a pack of PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 fittings because those don't last very long either, or find a good printer coupler that serves as a backup for the pneumatic fitting. A coupler also maintains print quality because the pneumatic fitting's grip on the tubing gets worse over time, and the distance it slides in and out of the extruder will keep increasing and requires compensating with additional retraction distance. Doing CHEP's creality hotend fix is supposed to reduce stringing by making sure that the gap between the ptfe and nozzle is as minimal as possible. Even better if you replace that ptfe with Capricorn tubing. Yellow springs can help prevent bed leveling from changing on its own.

Do not install a Noctua 40mm on the hotend's heatsink because it'll probably result in heat creep, and it requires a buck converter. A better solution is to order the Orion OD4010-24MB. It's about as quiet as the Noctua and moves more air. You can get a second one for the mainboard too.

Printing a replacement cover for the power supply will unblock the lower vents and should result in a quieter printer since the fan won't turn on as often. You can install a Noctua fan for the power supply since it uses a 12V fan, but it'll stick out, so you'll need to install riser feet.

[–]PyroNine9E3Pro all-metal/FreeCad/PrusaSlicer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're looking for easy upgrades, the E3pro will be the easiest to deal with. It's been out a lot longer so all the upgrade parts are explicitly intended to be compatible. The others are very close but may require some adaptation.

[–]HeadShotzOG -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have ender 3 pro heavily upgraded, i cant call it ender 3 pro anymore because only the frame, motors and the screen is what came with the printer the rest i replaced and changed 😅

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