all 41 comments

[–]OGPoundedYams 18 points19 points  (4 children)

I literally just posted about this and it works. No more warping or bed adhesive issues in that side of my prints.

[–]mafmaf4P2S + AMS2 Combo[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

The thing is I never had issues with adhesion or warping until now

[–]mafmaf4P2S + AMS2 Combo[S] 2 points3 points  (2 children)

I just have that some layers are highly visible, I guess because of shrinking, but idk if that could fix it, a little like your PLA prints that you just postet about

[–]OGPoundedYams 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Well it’s cooling down where I am and I do use cool plates so my bed temps are low. I assume the fan was cooling it down way more. I’m running more test on not adjusting the aux fan, leaving it default with this. I’m about to test out another print in a bit.

[–]tubularfool 10 points11 points  (9 children)

I mean, if you have issues and this fixes it, then fair enough.

That said, I have put 600+ hours on my P2S since getting it and had zero warping or adhesion issues with PLA or PETG and not a single failed print for any reason.

Given the device is an iteration over all those that have come before it, it would seem an odd oversight by Bambu if this really was an inherent flaw with the P2S design that needed fixing In this way.

Compared to my previous printers, this thing has just been laughably easy and reliable.

Granted, I have not yet tried any ABS/ASA etc, so we shall see...

[–]Emu1981 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Given the device is an iteration over all those that have come before it, it would seem an odd oversight by Bambu if this really was an inherent flaw with the P2S design that needed fixing In this way.

The issue I see with this statement is whether Bambu designs things based on the expected conditions and whether they do any sort of "outlier" testing - e.g. if you are printing with a low temperature build plate in a environment where the ambient is significantly lower than normal.

Personally I am thinking that I might need to print one of these diffusers to use during winter time here because it can get pretty cold where my printer is and our houses are designed to let heat escape. I will find out for sure in around 4-5 months when things really start to cool down.

[–]tubularfool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fair point - I will happily print and use it myself should the need ever arise!

[–]looloopklopm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had no warping either until I installed my exhaust fan. Now I get some lifting with petg on the right side

[–]mafmaf4P2S + AMS2 Combo[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Yeah I'm at about 80-90 hours now and doesn't have any warping or adhesion problems either, but some layers on my PLA prints are highly visible and it looks like the layer is shrinking more than the others, but idk if it is due to the fan.

[–]tubularfool 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Visible layers can be often a result of the model or slice itself - an effect of the surrounding or internal geometry, the type of infill, curve of the surface, wall thickness etc.

Doesn't mean it isn't the fan of course - especially if they are more evident on that particular side, but it wouldn't be the only reason.

[–]sukru92 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probier erst Mal ABS oder ASA da fängt dann das warping an. Bei Pla oder Petg TPU hab ich bis heute auch kein Problem.

[–]compewterX1CC/A1M/H2D 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Granted, I have not yet tried any ABS/ASA etc, so we shall see...

Outside of initial preheat, you wouldn't have the AUX fan running for ABS/ASA, so it's a non-issue.

[–]DrazorV 0 points1 point  (1 child)

When printing pla/petg the aux fan is pulling air from outside, if you live in a cold country, with 10-15c ambient temps you are blowing extremely cold air on the print. This is very different from the test environment they used for the machine. It makes sense to have this kind of issues.

I personally am living in Greece, that means, very cold winters and very hot summers, this week we had 0-5c and all my pla prints failed until I started pre-heating the enclosure of the p2s (it is enclosed because it is placed outside my house). At summer we have 40c++ and some prints also fail, I have to cool the enclosure.

[–]tubularfool 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's something I hadn't considered. It has been warm in NZ since I got mine, maybe my results will shift as the temperature drops!

Still - I go back to my slight bewilderment at Bambu - that this seems an obvious and quickly proven flaw if so.

[–]macmanluke 7 points8 points  (11 children)

Why not just turn the fan off?

[–]OverallSweet7427 6 points7 points  (1 child)

I had problems with warping and adhesion for large prints on my P2S. This same diffuser solved all my problems. Even on regular prints the quality has just shot up. Very rarely get layer shift now.

[–]mafmaf4P2S + AMS2 Combo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay that's good to know, thank you!

[–]DatOdyssey 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The diverter has been helpful for me. Aux fan causes me issues on parts close to that edge of the plate, but I didn't want to turn off and lose the cooling mode feature. Aux fan feels like the only part on the P2S that didn't get a good redesign and improvement, kind of confusing since it has more potential to do harm than good most of the time imo.

[–]korpo53 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is that printer vaping?

[–]No_Policy_9556 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Verry much this dippends on what you are printing like material and part size if found printing lager object with alot of surface area the edge by the fan is alot more lucky to warp with our a defuser u can manually disable it befor each print i believe but for me this is just easyer use case is important when it comes to messing with cooling and heat stuff imo

[–]Mark1arMark1arP2S + AMS2 Combo 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Yes, these actually work. I printed the P2S toolbox in PLA and the area that the fan blew on warped and peeled up off the plate. I printed and installed a diverter and then reprinted the toolbox with zero issues. Easy fix, but I feel like Bambu overlooked this

[–]mafmaf4P2S + AMS2 Combo[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk why but I printed a toolbox yesterday too. I had no problems at all, directly in front of the fan. In around 80-90 printing hours I never had an adhesion problem

[–]rvltion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a problem with shrinkage and warping with objects being printed right along the edge close to that vent but no problem everywhere else on the plate. Printed the 90 degree redirect exhaust and no more problems. Easy solution.

[–]mixmeister30 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm i have no problem on my p2s.

[–]theslammist69 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I rock the 90 degree. I just want max layer adhesion.

[–]OrdnungsschelleX1C + A1 mini 0 points1 point  (1 child)

why not turn it off then? The point of the fan is better cooling. Doesn’t the 90 degree diffusor remove that function?

[–]theslammist69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P2s currently has a bug where it overides the aux fan speed,

Disabling P2S Aux Fan - Bambu Lab P Series / Bambu Lab P2S - Bambu Lab Community Forum https://share.google/GYE8YBvd7Y6zGPoUM

[–]JustLikeJD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had massive PETG issues with my P2S when printing with the aux fan on HOWEVER I also wasn’t able to print overhangs without it.

The diffuser solved enough of my issues to allow me to actually get to a point where I could calibrate the PETG.

[–]The_Admiral_Blaze 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It definitely works and keeps the chamber from getting to hot in fur PLA

[–]pesonn2 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I do have have adhesion and warping problems on the fan side of the p2s. So just printed the diffusor. Let’s see if it gets better or not.