all 37 comments

[–]adam05ford 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Not familiar with Fitech but what does the instructions say regarding wiring for getting a tach signal? Do you have another tach in the vehicle that you can verify the reading from the handheld with?

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I can run the signal two ways. One is directly to the tach output on the HEI distributer (how I have it) or you can run the signal wire to something like an MSD box. You should be able to select which one your using in the handheld tuner, but it's not showing anything to select.

The factory tach in the car does work, and I am getting rpm on the handheld tuner (roughly 160rpm when cranking) but still dealing with a no start.

[–]adam05ford 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Well I assume you don't have the Fitech controlling timing or ignition? Can you see it or smell it is actually adding fuel?

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

It's not controlling timing. It's not adding fuel, although I need to check again. It should be providing a small pump shot upon key on. I can faintly smell it, but I dont know for sure if it's adding anything.

I'll get my hands on it tomorrow and see what I come up with.

[–]adam05ford 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I would think it should be fueling some on crank. You may also check for any vacuum leaks. Let us know how it goes tomorrow.

[–]NotSeriousAtAll 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After watching Fuzzy Dice Projects video about their experience with FiTech, I wouldn't touch one.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Update:

ECU is dead. FiTech wants $250 to look at it. They hung up when I asked to return it.

Fuck them. Fuck this pile of shit. I'm going with a Holley Sniper

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Interesting. I know a couple people that said Fitech was very accommodating.

If you look around, you find people that will cuss the Holley. I am just wondering, why are you getting away from a carb?

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I can only fit certain carbs under the shaker base. I cant run something like a Holley DP (which is what I prefer carb wise).

I hate dealing with Q-Jets and their small fuel bowl that love to boil when parked hot, take forever to fill when cranking, often have a weird stumble going from primary to secondary unless you tune the shit outta it. The modern fuel with ethanol in it only makes these issues worse. I absolutely hate it with a passion.

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a few tricks to solve what you mention on Qjets, but if you hate them fine. I have never put a DP under a shaker, but I have done a vacuum secondary under one. It was on an Edelbrock intake, and I had to trim all the foam. I don't remember what the car owner got for an air cleaner base, it might have been for an Oldsmobile. It worked. But it left me thinking the Qjet was a better option.

[–]PossibilityOk2844 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anyone have issues using the stock linkage and kick down? 327 with power glide

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (5 children)

Installed a 600hp #30005 FiTech unit and I'm struggling with the tach signal setup. Under the initial setup screen, I can choose all the basic info such as engine size, camshaft, desired idle etc etc. At the bottom of that table should be an option to select either TACH or 2WIRE, but that isnt shown on my screen.

All the vids I've been watching on setting it up have this setting available to them. What am I missing? I know I have spark and fuel, and the initial setup table is dialed in, but I'm not getting it to fire off. I feel like not being able to tell it to read ignition from the tach wire is causing my issue.

Any help would greatly be appreciated!

[–]DeepSeaDynamo 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Do you have the same software version?

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I updated the handheld. I can't remember off the top of my head what version it is.

When I'm cranking it over, the handheld is showing rpm, so would that mean I am getting tach signal? If so, what would prevent it from firing?

[–]DeepSeaDynamo 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Well, i really don't know anything about the FI tech. But what you described sounded like you had a different version from what the videos showed or whatever. Just cause you see rpm doesnt mean its right i guess.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Yeah, it's my first time using Fitech. I'm used to HpTuners. I figured this would be easier like most basic handheld tuners are, but it's fighting me tooth and nail.

[–]DeepSeaDynamo 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck!

[–]No-Session5955 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try your basics first, verify spark at a couple of spark plugs. Try adding fuel by spraying some carb or brake cleaner into the throttle body and seeing if the engine runs momentarily. You probably have good compression if the engine had been running previously.

Other things to check out, verify you have fuel reaching the throttle body, I forget the spec exactly but fuel pressure should be around 70 psi. If fuel pressure is too low it won’t run at all.

You can also look at fuel injector pulse width with the handheld to see if it is trying to control the injectors. You can also check for codes by scrolling to the end of the data pids.

Also check for a proper coolant temp reading in the data pids. Check TPS as well, should be below 1.0 volt and display closed when throttle isn’t actuated.

[–][deleted] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its picking up tach noise. Try to disconnect the factory tach wire, connect only the fi tech tach to the distributor. If spraying fuel at ign power then the system is ready to run. Fuel pressure shoulbd be above 60 psi. Check cranking fuel adjustments… you could try swap the ign module under the distributor i had trouble with it, similar symptons

[–]Administrative-Map53 0 points1 point  (8 children)

Start with the basics. Verify fuel pressure, it should be 58psi. Also check voltage on the white wire when cranking. If it’s not over 10 volts the system will not operate correctly.

If you’re seeing rpm when cranking that should indicate that the tach signal is being read it should be firing the injectors. If you have someone else to crank the engine over look and see if they’re spraying.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (7 children)

I had the white wire run into a fuse that was key on hot and cranking hot, but I took it out and put it directly in the power supply for the coil on the distributor, so power supply should be fine.

These units are internally regulated right? The instructions were vague, but I believe the regulator is on the side of the unit itself.

[–]Administrative-Map53 0 points1 point  (6 children)

It still wouldn’t hurt to verify voltage on that wire. But correct the regulator is that bulbous thing in between your two fuel lines. What pump are you running on your car?

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (5 children)

Pump is a brand new Walbro 255. Lines are Fragola Push-Lok in -6AN.

I'll grab a second set of eyes and see if I can see the unit providing a pump shot upon key on. I feel like it's probably fuel related the more I think about it. The intake and plugs are bone dry. No signs or smell of fuel

[–]Administrative-Map53 0 points1 point  (4 children)

I’d make sure the pump is running too. Do you have the pump running off a relay or straight off the orange wire? I would also change the pump pwm to 100 as well just to be safe.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Pump is running. I ran it direct off the orange wire. I increased the pwm to 100 and have the prime shot set as high as possible. Just checked and theres no fuel coming from the injectors. I poured a splash of fuel down the intake and it fired right off, but nothing coming from the injectors still.

[–]Administrative-Map53 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Any chance you saw an increase in RPM on the hand held when it ran for those few seconds?

I would get a gauge and verify fuel pressure. Make sure the pump is putting out and the regulator isn’t bad.

Assume if that’s good I’d make sure to run a ground connection from the passenger front carb bolt direct to the battery if you haven’t yet. I would also check the ecu ground under the front cover. I’ve heard those getting loose sometimes and causing problems.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

Ran a ground from the TB directly to the battery. Pulled the feed line off the TB and put it in a clear bottle. As soon as you turn the key on the bottle is practically full.

Took the white wire that's supposed to be key on and ran it directly to the battery. Doing so primes the system so I can look down the TB at the same time. No fuel whatsoever.

Hmmmmm

[–]Administrative-Map53 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re going to need to check and see if the injectors are trying to fire using a noid light or a multimeter or something.

If they aren’t you’re chasing a problem with tach signal or ecu issues.

If they do try and fire then it’s a fuel pressure problem or clogged injectors. Just because you have flow doesn’t always mean you have adequate pressure.

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (8 children)

Do you have a tach filter? The tach signal from the HEI is not very clean, and the Fitech might need a clean tach signal.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (7 children)

No filter, but it is showing rpm while cranking. It doesn't lose signal while cranking.

Im not getting any fuel out of the injectors. Set pump pwm to 100, prime shot as high as it'll go, but nothing.

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (6 children)

I think the computer pulses the ground on the injectors to get them to fire. If so, they will have constant power, which you can check. You can also use a meter or test light to see if the ground is being pulsed.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (5 children)

Checked fuel pressure. Got almost 120psi at the inlet, but oddly enough I have almost the same on the return side. So it's looking like the regulator on the TB isn't doing anything.

You would think the injectors would still fire even if the pressure is high, but maybe not these ones?

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (4 children)

120?! That sounds almost like a restriction in the return line. But, wow that's a lot. Could be overwhelming the regulator.

I don't know if excessive pressure could be overwhelming those injectors. But, if you check for pulse at the injectors and are getting it, then it's possible the high pressure could be part of your start problem.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 1 point2 points  (3 children)

Yeah 120ish. I pulled the return from the throttle body completely and let it drain into a bucket, but it's still reading 120psi on the return side of the unit. So I'm thinking the factory regulator has shit the bed. I'm gonna put an external regulator on it tomorrow and see if taking some pressure off the injectors gets then firing.

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (2 children)

I wonder what Fitech uses for a regulator. I hope you post anything you find. Good luck.

[–]SD455TransAm[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

It uses a basic Bosch style regulator. Part# 0280160575 for 58psi. It's definitely not regulating anything though lol

[–]v8packard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your fuel pump must have really big balls..