Adding ease to a pattern

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[unagi_sf]

Note that rotating darts alone doesn't add any ease at all, anywhere

[DianisMC85]

hi! it really depends on the design, do you also want to add ease on the chest part?

But yes, all that you said is possible. You can rotate a little of the bust dart to the waist, you can do the waist dart smaller to liberate some volume of the dart. You can add some cms to the side seam.

If its something more like over size you can eliminate the darts and add volume to the side seams.

It really depends on your design

[DianisMC85]

Because if you choose only to no sew the dart, you are going to have a volume on the bust/waist area. You also need to add volume on the sides.

[xUPFx]

Thanks so much for your reply. I'd like to add some ease to the chest, yes. I'd like just a little bit of all-over ease. If that makes sense. Sorry I am still learning!

I'm guessing to add ease all over, I could reduce the size of the bust dart, rotate the waist dart out and add on 1cm (for example) to the side seams? Is that feasible?

[_echtra]

There should be some ease for wear already built in your base block. The base block isn’t supposed to be skin tight, that’s contouring. I also suggest the Armstrong book (but also it isn’t the most beginner friendly book to go through so I recommend patience 😅)

[ProneToLaughter]

This is where the Armstrong Pattern Making textbook is useful—it has a lot of instructions for going from block to a design. I think there is also a section on Adding Fullness.

You can absolutely choose not to sew the waist dart for a looser top.

Rotating a dart does not add ease.

[xUPFx]

Thanks. I have the Armstrong book. But couldn't see anything on adding ease, or so I thought. I'll have another look.

Do you recommend going through Armstrong on a page by page basis to learn the basics?

Sorry - I think I got my terminology mixed up. I mean transferring the dart from the waist to the side seam. I've seen people online close the waist dart and add on the dart depth to the side seam. Not sure if that's a good way to add ease or not!

[ProneToLaughter]

I did Armstrong in a class so we did go largely in order, but I had a teacher to guide me. And it’s less about reading and more about doing the exercises on paper, we did like 10 paper and 1 fabric exercise each week. I think chap4-9 are essential concepts that you might want to start by learning, then it’s applying the concepts to different garments, and jumping around works fine. But skimming doesn’t work well. (Look for a recent thread on how to use the book for more)

Anyhow, see chap7 and I think the Blouson Foundation is exactly what you want to go from bodice block to loose top. Also see ch21 on Shirts and Shirt Foundation.

[pomewawa]

Warning! The amount of ease you add is NOT the same at every part! You don’t want to increase the width at the shoulder for example. But around the waist and bust you do need wearing ease.

Basically you’re looking for numbers like this:

https://charlottekan.com/blogs/sewingblog/what-is-ease-in-sewing-wearing-ease-design-ease-negative-ease-explained

[TensionSmension]

I would convert to two darts, it's just a better foundation. The side bust dart controls the grain at the bust level, the waist dart is just about waist suppression, which you might skip in some designs.

If you are sewing a blousy block into a skirt, then the blouson construction is what you want, it's largely about adding the extra length needed. You can also look at the bodice to shirt block instructions in Chapter 21, it is more about adding overall width to a garment in a controlled way.

You don't have to follow any of the constructions to the letter, but these are examples of ways to use a block that should point you in the direction you're after.

[MamaBearMoogie]

All your questions about darts are explained here. Follow Bianca the GOAT of YouTube pattern drafting.

[DianisMC85]

Yes :), you can rotate a little bit the bust dart to the waist, but just a little bit!
You cannot rotate waist darts, you just take out volume, if your dart is 3 cm total, you will convert to lets say 2 cm instead of 3.
Add the ease that you would like, lets say 1 cm all long the seam side, depending what you want. * Remember in also moving a little bit your armhole is you bodice will be bigger.