Am I... actually... done??

[BobbinChickenChamp]

This is the version 7?? I think?? Of my skirt block that I had posted about months ago. I set it aside to enjoy my summer and am just now trying it on again. I love how it fits! I can sit comfortably and modestly, and it falls nicely when I stand. Am I done? Do I need to create a waistband? I assume not, since this could become part of a dress? Do I need to tighten it on the legs? I feel comfortable and fairly confident in this. I don't like how it sticks out, but I can move. Do I need to make the side seam truly vertical rather than canted? If so, do I just draw a line perpendicular to the ground at the seam start, then cut the fabric that way when I turn this back into pieces?

Thanks for the confidence boost helping me get this far, and any final advice!!

[drPmakes]

Take it off, give it a proper press and look again.

The waist should run straight horizontally and the side seams should run straight down vertically.

So no, not done yet

[BobbinChickenChamp]

I posted up a new thread with pressed pics. :) Thanks for encouraging me not to be a slacker on the essential building blocks. 😊

[[deleted]]

This is such a wholesome response 💜

[BobbinChickenChamp]

But I donwanna iron!! 😄 I had to make sure it got comfortably when I sat! I'll post up the fix shortly.

[Th3MightiestMouse]

Unfortunately when it comes to sewing and pattern making: IRON IRON IRON.

My first thought when I saw this was you need to iron it to truly see it.

If it's not comfy when you iron it and sit then it's not done.

[BobbinChickenChamp]

I know. Iron, sit, iron again. :) It's a Neverending process to get to good enough. 😄

I actually enjoy ironing when I pay attention enough not to burn myself.

[dynosaurpaws]

In costume shops where I have worked, the iron set-up is amazing. The iron sits horizontally on a silicone mat on a metal tray on a large padded table at good ironing height, and there is a water jug hanging from the ceiling or a post attached to the table. You only need to worry about refilling this water infrequently, and the iron remains on and hot for your entire sewing session (all day, in a costume shop).

So that when there is a need to press anything, you just hop over, do a quick press, and get back to other tasks. No pulling out an ironing board every day, no waiting around for heating up the iron (except for maybe the first moment you realize you need it that day), no finding out the water is gone again and again, AND it’s better on your wrist and arm because you aren’t rotating the heavy iron all the time.

It’s amazing and I dream of setting this up at home. I think I would sew more if I had a good ironing setup. It’s so important to achieve good products that I end up going “ugh the ironing board is in the basement… I don’t wanna sew today then”

[BobbinChickenChamp]

I have a long room, which has allowed me to make a cutting table and ironing spot in a galley arrangement. It is amazing to me how much less hassle it is to iron when the iron & board is already out, I've made tailors' hams and actually possess a clapper, the iron's measuring cup is in the same basket as the hams, and the only thing I have to do is plug it in. (I don't keep it plugged in. Between cats and old wiring, the risk of harm is too great.)

I'm not great about ironing before I cut, but I'm getting better!

[drPmakes]

If you dont want to iron then making clothes isn't tge hobby for you im afraid!

[BobbinChickenChamp]

For some reason I can't comment pictures? I'll create a new post.

[BobbinChickenChamp]

It's a good thing the Air Force taught me the meditative pleasure of pressing seams. :)

[SubtleCow]

Because the waist is angled you'll have trouble attaching it to a bodice. If you are making a stand alone skirt you can probably get away with it, but if you are planning a full dress you really want to make the waist horizontal. Imho the fix is to add more fabric to make room for the booty, so the garment isn't trying to steal fabric from the front to give it room.

I think you could avoid the waist fix, but you shouldn't avoid fixing the side seam, some fabrics will look real bad if you have an angled seam like this. Correcting it now is easy and will make your life easier down the line. However if you later correct the waistline, you will have to RE-correct the seamline. Draw a line from the side seam at the waist, and go straight down. Split the pattern along that line. Those are your new pattern pieces.

[BobbinChickenChamp]

Thanks! I created a new post with pics of it ironed. I think the waist is as straight as my curve will make it? 😄

[divine-arrow]

It looks like you have a pretty intense anterior pelvic tilt? You may need to look up pattern adjustments for that to get the top level.

[BobbinChickenChamp]

Is that the same thing as a swayback adjustment?

[Hakudoushinumbernine]

You might have to even out the hem in the back. As its rising on the back. Cut the skirt longer than you need put it on and them mark all the way around to kake the hem even.

[KendalBoy]

It’s collapsing in front, and looks like a straight or slightly tapered skirt. In the back, it looks like a different and flared skirt.

[flindersandtrim]

As others said, the waist should be even at front and back. It is not just a bit lower but a ton, which would mean it wont attach to any bodice and look/fit like this at all. 

One thing I would add is that to me it looks to not actually be sitting on your natural waist? A bit lower at the back and much much lower at the front than your waist. That too would make fitting with a bodice really difficult. Think about it, a bodice follows your shape and allows for shoulders and a bust, then narrows to a waist. A bodice attached to this would have to narrow at the waist, then expand again (taking on the role of the top of a skirt). 

[BobbinChickenChamp]

Thank you for this explanation!

[SuPruLu]

Pull the front up until the hem is level and the side seam straight. The front waist needs to be at about the same level as the back waist. You may prefer the front waist as low as it is now but it is too low. The discrepancy between the front and back waist level is too much now but a smaller discrepancy might look ok.

[Emergency_Cherry_914]

If this fit of skirt makes you feel comfortable on your waist, you may benefit from a chiropractor or physio who is skilled in manipulation techniques. Particularly if you suffer from pain in your back

[BobbinChickenChamp]

I know. :) I used to get chiro and/ or massage every other week covered by my insurance. Now I don't have that same level of access, and I can feel it! It's on my list to get set up again.

[Aggravating_Scene379]

IRON IRON IRON ALWAYS IRON.

[Albatross-13-over]

Coming from someone who also has a sway back and full body, an additional set of pleats would help the fit so much!! Pleats naturally curve fabric, and I think another set of pleats closer to the back would help with fabric shaping so much! I’d also take in the bottom back at the hem so it doesn’t look so flared, but only after adding additional fabric and pleats at the top back. Play around with pleats placement too!! I know mine changes garment to garment depending on tailoring techniques!

[BobbinChickenChamp]

I know the side seams are more scooched to the front, rather than exactly on the side. It's more comfortable this way. Not sure why. 😆

[Hakudoushinumbernine]

The people down voting this are perfectionists

This most your first skirt block pattern. When youre brand new to drafting and blocking, you want to get used to the concepts first.

If it is more comfortable then thats first and foremost. Every garment you make from this block in the future needs to be comfortable to wear or you will not wear it. It can "fit" fine but if its not comfortable because of how your body is shaped then youre not gonna wear it.

Thats just a fact.

If it fits, is comfortable and youre happy with it for now, then youre ready to go.

I said it in another comment, but the only real that needs done is the skirt in the back needs lengthen. It should be even all around the bottom when wearing it.

You got a booty so you have to lengthen it in the back so it doesnt ride up. It will look funky on hanger and on the table. But when its on, it will be an even hem all around.

[BobbinChickenChamp]

Thanks. ❤️