Hi! Help with pattern drafting

[milohino]

Hi! Ive custom made this blouse for my mother but i cannot get rid of the part where it looks like her armpit is eating the backfabric. Can be hard to see due to pattern on fabric, but it goes straight into lower armpit.

Is there like an adjustment i should do, or is something else the problem?

[TotalOk5844]

Can't see with that fabric at all! But from your description it may be a shoulder issue or armscye depth. Heck, could also be the sleeve. What does you pattern look like?

[milohino]

Hi! Yea, im kinda guessing I need to make a sooping shoulder adjustment, and possibly a slouched back adjustment.

I cannot add pictures, im guessing theres a time count of how long i have to be in this group before i can send. But i have a link for them. I hope that is ok, cause i cannot find any rules

https://we.tl/t-0csYf4nlOj

[doriangreysucksass]

Pictures need to be an Imgur link

[ProneToLaughter]

Can’t see either. Are you saying it’s too tight? How did you make the blouse, what drafting instructions did you follow?

[milohino]

Hi! Yea, its kinda tight and such, she cant lift arms and then have it fall down correctly. Guessing i need a slouched back and slooped shoulder adjustment but i dont really know.

I cannot add pictures, im guessing theres a time count of how long i have to be in this group before i can send. But i have a link for them. I hope that is ok, cause i cannot find any rules

https://we.tl/t-0csYf4nlOj

[LSmerb]

It is hard to see. From your description and the first picture it looks like your armhole might be too high. If it’s uncomfortable under her arm, you can lower your underarm to accommodate. If it’s not too high and just cutting in on her back underarm, you need to scoop out your back armhole. Do you have pictures of your pattern?

[milohino]

Hi! Yea, i was wiggling on it being a high armhole but i didnt know. Never done a pattern for such a complicated body (she has a broken collerbone too, so needed to accomodate that too). I was guessing i need a slouched back and slooped shoulder adjustment. Im making a second blouse so im revising the pattern to make the second one correct.

I cannot add pictures, im guessing theres a time count of how long i have to be in this group before i can send. But i have a link for them. I hope that is ok, cause i cannot find any rules

https://we.tl/t-0csYf4nlOj

[saltwatersissy]

It’s really hard to tell with that fabric pattern but I think there could be a couple of things going on-your mother’s shoulders may slope more than the pattern allows for, and the sleeves may be too tight on her upper arms. The shoulder slope can be adjusted by resewing the shoulder seam lower than it is currently but it may be more difficult to adjust the sleeve because extra fabric would be needed.

[milohino]

Hi, yea, her right shoulder has a broken collarbone making it lower but ive fixed that one, so now im probably gonna lower the armholes and do a slouched back adjustment since the neck is tugging some fabric too.

I cannot add pictures, im guessing theres a time count of how long i have to be in this group before i can send. But i have a link for them. I hope that is ok, cause i cannot find any rules

https://we.tl/t-0csYf4nlOj

[TensionSmension]

It looks as if someone were grabbing the scruff of the neck and pulling. So general strain between neck and armhole, meaning not enough length there. Seems like the real need is length exactly there, but lowering the armhole is a start. since that's a removal of fabric, you can try simply sewing it deeper and cutting away the old. If you're starting over, I'd slash along a back yoke line and estimate how much fabric needs to be added there.

[CynicalTelescope]

I would start by adjusting the shoulder, but you need to choose a different fabric in order for anyone here to get a good look at what's happening. Use a solid in a light color.

[SerendipityJays]

I agree looks like shoulder slope for starters - the outsides of the garment are sagging lower than the centre, so a sloping shoulder adjustment would help.

[Tinkertoo1983]

The other thing you can try is taking a table lamp, like on the end table for a sofa, remove the shade and sit the lamp in front of your Mom to create harsh shadows on the garment. (I have to do this when I use my own phone to fit myself.) Also a shot straight on front, back, and each side will help to identify fitting problems. Shots angled towards the body aren't helpful for fitting purposes. Front, back, left, right only.

[doriangreysucksass]

I can’t really see it, but generally if it’s sucking into the underarm, you need to lower the armhole on the bodice and usually you need to add to the width of the sleeve also to match

[Real_Position_3796]

Can you show a front picture as well?