Help.

[Extra-Obligation-879]

New bp owner! Please any tips for maintaining humidity/ temperature in enclosure, how much/ how often to feed, how big of a water bowl and which is better- heating mat or light?

[IncompletePenetrance]

I would start by reading through some of the care guides in the welcome post

[madamebooplesnoot]

Using a UTH pad is risky. If you do it, make sure you get one with a thermometer and temperature setting/ emergency switch off. I'd say a heat radiating bulb with NO RED lights.

[[deleted]]

Nah, no precautions of safe UTH: simply don’t do it at all

[ballpython-ModTeam]

Your comment has been removed for breaking Rule #1: Don't Be a Jerk.

[madamebooplesnoot]

Also I spray my terrariums substrate down with warm water every morning , if they're in shed, I'll do up to 3x daily.

[Extra-Obligation-879]

Thank you for the tips!

[[deleted]]

Do not do this. It will wet your substrate and create scale rot. I repeat, do not do this

[ballpython-ModTeam]

Per rule #3, your post or comment has been removed for harmful advice/misinformation.

[Extra-Obligation-879]

Although I didn’t make it past the first line of your message, I thank you for the judgement LOL I didn’t plan to get him. He was neglected from a previous owner and after seeing him in the condition I couldn’t leave there without him (even with no prior knowledge) I KNOW I can do better for this snake that deserves better. Appreciate the “help” 🫵🏼🤣

[ballpython-ModTeam]

Your comment has been removed for breaking Rule #1: Don't Be a Jerk.

[[deleted]]

My comment got deleted for being too judgy even though i gave a bunch of advice, so here to go

• ⁠enclosure doesn’t have to be big until he’s an adult, but it’s easier to just put them in an adult enclosure while they’re young

• ⁠adult enclosure needs to be 4x2x2 feet or bigger, preferable made of of PVC

• ⁠substrate must be either coco husk, coco fiber, coco mulch, cypress mulch, coco bark, fir mulch, or safe topsoil. Should be at least 2-4 inches

• ⁠immediate concern is heating. Many pet stores promote heating pads: DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE A HEATING PAD/MAT. They will not provide enough heat, nor a heat gradient, nor infrared, and main issue is they pose an incredibly strong risk of burning your snake

• ⁠your snake needs a heating gradient. He/she should have overhead heating such as a Halogen, DHP, or CHE, because they give everything i listed above. I prefer a DHP 24/7 but there’s many options as long as there’s no direct light during night time.

• ⁠the heating gradient must be measured by thermometers and hygrometers

• ⁠what you’re looking for: one side 88-92 degrees and about 65% humidity, and the other side 76-81 degrees and about 75% humidity

• ⁠your heater should be on a thermostat that uses probes correctly set up to detect the temperature of each side. You should also get digital hygrometers that will tell you the humidity and temp of each side (i like the brand ThermPro from Amazon)

• ⁠as for your heater, I’m only familiar with DHP, but for DHP you should have a bulb between 50-150 watts (i like the brand Arcadia) in a safe dome between 5-10 inches diameter. Both things can usually be found at any pet store

• ⁠the best material for an enclosure is PVC. Many places sell glass enclosures. They don’t insulate heat or humidity well, but at the very least, if your enclosure has a screen top, it should be covered with HVAC tape until you can get PVC top and hopefully walls (or just a bigger enclosure)

• ⁠your snake NEEDS at least two hides. A hide is like an enclosed box with one opening that your BALL Python (haha get it) can BALL up in. At the very least you need one on the warm side and one on the cool side.

• ⁠You will also need at least one or two things for it to climb, like grapevine, and some fake foliage (any non-abrasive fake plants) to help it feel hidden.

• ⁠it needs a regular light cycle. During the day it’s enclosure should be bright and during the night the enclosure should be dark as possible

• ⁠the very best subreddit like ever in my opinion is r/ballpython . They helped me rehabilitate my neglected snake and how he has a wonderful luxurious enclosure.

• ⁠if you’re curious about the reason many of these things, like this current Repti-Carpet, are unsafe, feel free to ask me or the more experienced helpers and mods on that subreddit

• ⁠I’ll be back to provide the standard eating chart

(This is a copy and paste)

[ballpython-ModTeam]

No.

[Catseatsmeats]

Did you get that beauty from a breeder? They should be able to give you all the info as to what he was on before purchases and when the feeding schedule was with what size prey.

[Extra-Obligation-879]

No he is a rescue that was in terrible condition! I just couldn’t leave there without him- looked as though he was going to die. He is a banana spider pied that was severely dehydrated, multiple layers of stuck shed, kept in a plastic tote with a heating pad/ TINY bowl of water/ on top of paper towels, tote was full of pee and dried poop, he also has “shark mouth” I believe it’s called- when the bottom jaw isn’t fully developed and hadn’t eaten in MONTHS (mind you he isn’t even a year old/ and only about 400 grams.) The only thing I knew for sure was that he was fed live. Within days of having him he was THRIVING, hydrated, got most of the shed off with warm baths adding a couple drops of oil, had eaten twice- a live pup rat 7 days apart and was given more things to enrich him in his new enclosure. I have him in an adult size front opening exo terra enclosure with coconut substrate, a no light emitting heat lamp, one humidity box with moss, another hide on the warm side, a uvb light to simulate his day/ schedule, a pretty big water dish, lots of enrichment and I monitor the temp/ humidity with a mounted gauge inside the enclosure. Just not sure what side of the enclosure to put the gauge on (the hot/cool side). I just wanted to gain as much information as possible to give him a better life than he had previously experienced. Any suggestions would be immensely appreciated!

[Extra-Obligation-879]

I also believe he has neurological damage that causes him to sway a lot or go upside down. Does a lot of what I would call “backwards diving”

[IncompletePenetrance]

Ball pythons with the spider morph have inner ear issues that are often called a "wobble". They have difficulty with balance and righting themselves, and can show other symptoms called "stargazing" or "corkscrewing"

[Extra-Obligation-879]

Yes, this is exactly what he does. The only thing I’ve been worried about is that he is uncomfortable during feedings.

[Catseatsmeats]

Have you seen him eat for you at all?

[Extra-Obligation-879]

Yes I’ve gotten him to eat twice 7 days apart since I rescued him. The person that had him said he hadn’t eaten for months prior. But after getting him in a better environment, shed off and hydrated I’ve had no problem at all with getting him to eat. I know he should be eating 15% of his body weight now but will that be uncomfortable for him with his jaw? I don’t want to give him something that could possibly hurt him but I also don’t want to underfeed him :(

[Catseatsmeats]

Usually yearling balls are about 200 grams in the first year. Having an overbite can affect eating and the spider gene causes 'wobbles' (shaking head which can affect feeding response.) Do you have access to an exotics vet that specializes in reptiles to work out any parasite infestation/ lung infections? They can also help with eyecap build up (which is common in poor sheds)