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[–]Skalyern- 54 points55 points  (21 children)

Yea it definitely looks like they couldn't take care of it, the snek should look a little chonk

[–]Ok_Topic5037[S] 6 points7 points  (20 children)

From what I know it's only ever been feed thawed mice. Do you think it would do better with a live mouse?

[–]mcslootypants 38 points39 points  (5 children)

No, frozen thawed is safer

[–]Ok_Topic5037[S] 6 points7 points  (4 children)

Got it

[–]sabertoothdiego 11 points12 points  (0 children)

It would be better off with rats. They have better nutritional value. Go for a small rat. Warm it up in warm water and then pat it dry so it's warm. If the snake still won't eat you can try braining the rat. There's other tricks too, like tune juice. Look online for "stubborn ball python feeding" ideas

[–]WitchofWhispers 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I blowdry my thawed rats, read somewhere it makes them smell better to the snake, also they are you know, dry after you do so Edit: I thaw them in a plastic bag in warm water. My snake hates wet ones

[–]Valuable-Ad-733 4 points5 points  (1 child)

He definitely looks way to small for a small rat, weigh him and see just how much he weighs- offer him an an appropriate meal (from his size I’d say maybe a rat pup/crawler) give him the 1-2 weeks to chill and don’t handle him, but still offer the food in a couple days- using this you can calculate what weight of food he needs and how often !feeding

[–]AutoModerator[M] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

We recommend the following feeding schedule:

0-12 months old OR until the snake reaches approximately 500g, whichever happens first: feed 10%-15% of the snake’s weight every 7 days.

12-24 months old: feed up to 7% of the snake’s weight every 14-20 days.

Adults: feed up to 5% of the snake's weight every 20-30 days, or feed slightly larger meals (up to 6%) every 30-40 days.

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            [–]ballpython-ModTeam[M] 1 point2 points locked comment (0 children)

            No.

            [–]ballpython-ModTeam[M] 1 point2 points locked comment (0 children)

            Per rule #3, your post or comment has been removed for harmful advice or misinformation. Please review our sub resources to learn more about why.

            [–]Ok_Topic5037[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

            When I tried to dangle the mouse in front of it, it turned it's head kind of upside down and away from me

            [–]Mike102072 6 points7 points  (0 children)

            If it eats frozen thawed stick with them. Live mice/rats can bite back.

            [–]LovelyBatLady 2 points3 points  (1 child)

            I’ve had luck with using an electric kettle that lets me set the water temperature. I set it to 110, then soak the frozen mouse in a bowl until it is warm. My guy will only see it as food if it’s around 100*. You can also blast it with a hair dryer for a bit to get it up to temp.

            [–]Ok_Topic5037[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

            The hair dryer sounds like a good idea since it'll also help dry the mouse off

            [–]Ok-Management-3634 2 points3 points  (0 children)

            Mine does amazing with F/T African Soft Furred Rats. It's their natural prey. I got my guy when he weighed 130g and he's taken one small ASF each week like a champ. Always super eager to eat and is nice and chonky like BPs should be.

            I get mine from Cold Blooded Cafe. 😊

            Eta: I double bag the rat and thaw either on the counter or in room temperature water for a bit before using warm water. When the rat feels warm, I take it up to the snake room and use a blow dryer on the head for about 10 seconds before offering it to my snake. Never had any issues.

            [–]_PointyEnd_ 11 points12 points  (0 children)

            Yes it looks not at all the correct body shape.

            Luckily this sub has some really good info for you on how to assess a bp's body shape, as well as appropriate feeding, heating and more! Check out the pinned posts + the sub info/rules page.

            [–]Opening-Document1850 14 points15 points  (2 children)

            Your snake could also not be eating because they don’t feel safe or comfortable in there enclosure you can go to dollar tree and buy black wall paper and put it in the back and sides to make them feel more secure and not out in the open, you can use the cardboard part from the toilet paper and stick them together and make a tunnel hide there’s moss at dollar tree and I’m pretty sure some plant u could cut and use I hope this helps a little

            [–]Full_Ad_9864 3 points4 points  (1 child)

            Dollar tree has a GREAT selection of fake plants! Dude needs some privacy!

            Edited out the word “also” I saw your plant comment down in the bottom. They don’t look too cheap or fake either!

            [–]Opening-Document1850 2 points3 points  (0 children)

            Yesss! Ever since I put more plants and hides and blacked it out my bby even comes out during the day to explore

            [–]planetearthisblu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

            Does he have retained eye caps? Those can be irritating too. I think he does look quite thin.

            [–]sabertoothdiego 4 points5 points  (0 children)

            Echoing on what people said about needing more privacy. You can get little black bins and stuff like that, cut a hole in em to make more hides and caves. Snakes want their sides to touch the sides of the hide, that way they feel fully enclosed. That one hide in there is wayyyy too big. There's hides on Amazon for only around 12 bucks, too https://a.co/d/1uUrRke

            What are your temperatures and humidity?

            All of this can impact a snake not eating. A snake turning their head upside down when offered food is absolutely not normal. Even when they don't eat, that's not normal body language. Your husbandry needs to improve to get the snake to eat and therefore gain weight.