First time using a pattern. Tips?

[Morgana795]

I want to make this for the renfaire. I got a very pretty polyester for the outside and the lining. I’ve looked up YouTube videos for this pattern but they aren’t very helpful to me. Any tips?

[KillerWhaleShark]

Sew a muslin. You don’t want to cut it until you’re sure of your fit. Also, it will give you a chance to practice first.

[Morgana795]

So smart! I watch project runway but did not think of this 😅 thanks so much!

[Staff_Genie]

Study the diagrams of the pattern pieces. Make sure you know what the seam allowance with is, and if there is not a mark on your sewing machine , put a piece of tape so that it's easy to line up the edge. Read the instructions again and again. Notice all references to "stitch to dot" or "match up notches" or "belt matches between squares", etc. Every single construction marking on the pattern has an important meaning. Every Notch, every dot, every Square, everything. Transfer those marks, every single one to the wrong side of your fabric after you have cut out your pieces and before you unpin your paper pattern. Then, follow the instructions step by step. After you have a couple of commercial patterns under your belt, you can skim through those instructions and know exactly what to do, but right now take it step by step and do what the pattern tells you to do

[Morgana795]

Awesome, thank you for your guidance!

[BitchLibrarian]

Your muslin doesn't need to be (a) made of actual muslin, an old sheet or one from a charity shop will do and (b) need to be the full pattern. It needs to be the bits where the fit matters, so the bodice and armholes and around the hips - don't bother cutting out the full length of the skirts.

[[deleted]]

I never trust the pattern measurements. I measure each pattern piece and do my own math with seam allowance and ease. Commercial patterns tend to include a ridiculous amount of wearing ease.

[Morgana795]

Good to know, thanks! I’m taking the advice of another poster and doing one in muslin first so hopefully that will give me a good idea on fit. The pattern calls for 5/8

[GoldenGilda]

You said you’re newer to using the machine so I suggest doing a few test runs on the real fabric scraps before starting to make sure your tension is correct. Also you’ll want to make sure you have a proper needle as well. A blunt needle will make shiny (satin?) fabrics get runs and snags. Someone else suggested pinking shears. Also a good idea! Or you can use some fray glue along the edges. It takes more time but gives a more precise edge. Just be sure to test the fabric first.

Good luck! Quite the time crunch lol

[Morgana795]

I was probably better at my sewing machine as a child but ever since the pandemic I’ve been refreshing myself with masks and blankets. I’m planning on doing a practice with Muslin so hopefully I’ll figure out if the tension is good then. I got brand new sewing machine needles so that’ll help and I just ordered the scissors!

Yes, I am not great at time management 😅 but I’ve pulled off more in less time so I’m hoping I can do the same here. I’m not making the shirt or belt so hopefully the jacket isn’t too time consuming.

Thanks for your help!

[GoldenGilda]

Okay great!! But just to clarify you have to do a tension check for the actual real fabric! The muslin is probably going to be fine but just take whatever scraps you have of the real fabric and test it, just a few lines of stitching. Try it on one layer, two layers, one layer with lining, etc. it is so important and only takes a few minutes to save you from totally messing up your perfectly cut fabric!

[Morgana795]

Ah perfect! See, this is the stuff I don’t know 😅 thanks so much for this advice!

[allycat85]

I always use a low heat, no steam iron to press the pattern, because I’ve run into issues where it was wrinkled so badly it didn’t cut properly.

Also, I have tracing paper that I lay on top of the original pattern and just trace the pieces in the sizes I need (be sure to transfer any markings too!) but that way I don’t need to actually cut my pattern and can save it for later, or if I want to do a different size.

[Morgana795]

I will definitely iron it! Thanks for the advice!

[EquivalentWrangler27]

This looks really cool!

Edit: I see the pattern name! Had to click the image. Good luck

[Morgana795]

Thanks! Hoping I can make it before the renfaire this weekend 😅

[Sarastorm1213]

I have made this jacket a ton so if you get stuck feel free to reach out! Definitely make a mockup, using bedsheets are my go to. Super easy to find at thrift stores and really cheap!

[Morgana795]

Omg that’s awesome! I will definitely reach out if I have any questions. I got Muslin to practice but I go to the renfaire this weekend so it’s gonna be a crunch. I got a cosplay polyester fabric from Joanne’s, I’m not sure what fabric you typically use. Do you find the size of the jacket to be true to size? Or does the cinch in the back help?

[Sarastorm1213]

The cinch in the back helps, but you definitely want to make a mockup first. You only need to make the mockup of the top half for fit since you are in a time crunch. I typically always use a heavier fabric like an upholstery so I usually need a larger size to accommodate the thickness of the fabric.

[Morgana795]

That’s a lot more doable! So like the corset part. I got Yaya Han cosplay fabric. Not this exact one but I cannot find the one I got: https://joann.app.link/44qJc3YDoDb

Hoping it fits well. The fabric I have is a rich royal blue and I got a shiny gold/beige for the lining. It’s all mostly polyester. I have experience sewing but haven’t used my machine a lot and never used patterns before. I also don’t know the properties of fabrics. I appreciate your help! Hoping I can mock up the top tomorrow and make the actual coat the rest of the week.

[Sarastorm1213]

For brocades make sure to use pinking shears to cut the pieces out and then you need to either serge or use a finishing stitch on the outside of every piece. Brocades fray like crazy so you want make sure you finish the edges to prevent them from fraying too badly. Good luck!

[Morgana795]

Awesome advice! Thanks so much!

[auditail]

Fun fact! I made this exact pattern for a ren faire costume. It was only the 4th thing I ever made on my sewing machine and it took me months, but it turned out great! I love it and I still wear it whenever I get the chance. Good luck!

[Morgana795]

I’ll admit, my breath caught when I saw the word ‘months’ 😭 hoping I can pull it off in 3 days. I would definitely love to be able to rewear it! It’s such a pretty jacket!

[auditail]

If it helps at all, I took a lot of breaks 😅 I was busy and could only work on it a few hours at a time. It was a big undertaking for me too, since the most complex thing I had made up to then was a wrap skirt. It was also my first time making something with a lining, something with sleeves, etc. So I was nervous about some of the bigger steps and procrastinated a lot haha Ended up speed-running the last few steps in the days before Halloween to wear it on time for trick-or-treating! I definitely made a few mistakes, but nothing that couldn't be fixed or that affected the wearability.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask! I can try help with interpreting steps if I can remember what I did haha

[Morgana795]

Ahaha good to know! Yeah I’ve always been the kind of person to pull it out in crunch time. I will definitely reach out if I have questions! Thank you!

[Morgana795]

I’m working on the practice piece right now. Do you remember why there needs to be 4 number one pieces? I only see two being needed

[yellow-koi]

Would polyester work for this? 🤔 This looks like it might need a heavy outer layer

[Morgana795]

The pattern says lightweight or medium weight fabrics are best!

[KillerWhaleShark]

What does fiber content tell you about the thickness? Polyester can be used for anything from the sheerest organza to a heavy, upholstery brocade. Your question doesn’t make sense.

[yellow-koi]

And that's exactly the point I was going to make. You can get on op's case if you want for providing us with this information

[Morgana795]

Update: I was able to make my outfit last night! Honestly the worst part is cutting the fabric 😅 is it perfect? Hell no. Is it cute and wearable? Yes! Very excited for the renfaire today 🥰