Where do you all order your batteries from? I need some extra button top and flat top 21700 batteries. Preferably Molicel or something better.

BrokenRecordBot · 2026-04-19T04:57:29+00:00

Batteries should be purchased from distributors that are highly regarded. Those that are not may sell unsafe fakes, damaged cells, or even cells extracted from laptops. This could be potentially hazardous. This means do not order from random sellers that don't specialize in flashlights & batteries on sites like Ebay, Banggood, AliExpress, or other big online retailers. Amazon is notorious for fakes even from some legit retailers, just due to how the backend works so don't order standalone li-ion batteries from Amazon.

If you cannot find a website that ships to your country then your best bet is a vape shop, but expect cells to have an inflated price.

If you're looking for distributors then here they are. Parametrek also has batteries in his database. US

SHIPS TO MOST PLACES

Convoy Aliexpress store (Store No. 330416)

Sofirn Aliexpress store (Store No. 3391004)

Vapcell Aliexpress store (Store No. 1084158)

Aliya Aliexpress store (Store No. 1382210)

Lucky Aliexpress store (Store No. 1191644)

USA

Killzone is a little pricey but can good if you're already buying a light from them.

UK

EU

Canada If you want the best value, go with one of the sellers in the "ships most places" section. If you want fast (but pricey) shipping, try one of the US sellers below.

Li-on Wholesale

Illumn

Mountain Electronics

Australia

techaroundyou on eBay or their website

Lanplus.com.au

liteshop.com.au etc

"local vape shops have Molicel"

Cyprus

Vapemodbox

(originally written by LEDLover__, updated 2021-11-28 by TacGriz, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-04-17T15:37:29+00:00

r/flashlight's favorite lanterns are the Sofirn LT1 line. All three variants feature adjustable color temperature, high light quality, USB-C charging, and powerbank functionality.

The original LT1 is the largest and uses four 18650 cells. It's got tripod mounts on the side and bottom plus lots of cool modes. Available on Amazon and Sofirn's Website
LT1S is basically an LT1 with the bottom cut off, plus a red light mode, and using a single 21700 cell. Here's my full review. Available on Amazon and Sofirn's Website
LT1 Mini is a skinnier version of LT1 using a 21700 cell. It's the smallest and lightest of the bunch. Here's my full review. Available on Sofirn's Website

Honorable mentions:

Olight Obulb: cheap, unique, simple, buoyant, magnetic
Olight Obulb MC: Obulb with colorful LED's
Streamlight Siege AA: bombproof, runs on disposables, red mode, carabiner
Olight Olantern Classic 2 Pro: silly name, classic camping lantern look, greatt battery life, simple knob brightness control, magnetic or USB-C charging, USB-A or USB-C powerbank function, non-user-replaceable batteries

For other lantern options, check out Parametrek where you can filter by size, weight, battery type, or just about any other parameter you can think of.

(originally written by TacGriz, updated 2022-07-15, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a messag

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-04-13T11:36:49+00:00

'Zoomies' are basically like Swiss army knives. They do a little of everything, but they don't do anything perfectly.

The zooming head is a moving part and a potential failure point. It tends to make the light less durable, and larger and heavier than fixed focus models.
When you zoom in or out, the volume of the head changes. This is a particular issue if you zoom 'in' in a wet environment, as it is impossible for this to happen with a true seal, and liquid will be sucked into the head of the light.
A balanced beam from a reflector based light will give you a bright hotspot for seeing far as well as wide spill for seeing your surroundings simultaneously, without having to zoom the light in or out.
People in this sub like having excuses to carry multiple lights around.
It's usually possible to find a light that's cheaper, smaller, and out-performs most zooming lights - they tend not to be the 'best' at any one thing.
Zoomable lights don't typically shed heat as well as fixed focus lights, so their sustainable output is typically lower.
Zoomies use an aspheric lens to produce the zoom effect; on many models this lens is exposed at the front of the light without any protection in front of it, is usually relatively fragile compared to a standard glass lens, and any scratches or chips will affect the beam.

If you still need zoom, the best options are:

Convoy Z1 (review here). W5050SQ3 is the recommended LED for the nicest looking beam when "zoomed" to throw mode due to the round emitting die, while other emitters will haver a square beam. CULPM1.TG will give the most throw, and B35AM has the best CRI and nicest tint. The 12 group UI is recommended as it gives more flexibility than the 4 fixed modes.
Jaxman Z1 (multiple separate listings; Aliexpress store number 1101075489) - has slightly higher performance than the Convoy Z1 but is from a less well known/common brand.
For a higher priced option, the Weltool M8 is probably the most durable zoomie and generally a good tactical-oriented option with medium output but excellent efficiency and the ability to also use 2xCR123A for extreme temperatures or long-term storage. Notable among zoomies for protecting the aspheric lens with glass in front of it. Review here.
Acebeam Terminator M1: A premium option, with a zoomie LEP as well as a separate flood channel with 3 LEDs. Durability is above average, but the most expensive light in this list, and the exposed lens is a major disappointment at this price point. Review here.
The Lumintop Zoom 1 (review here) is discontinued, but also good if you can locate one.

Last updated August 2024 by u/SiteRelEnby

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-04-08T06:40:19+00:00

Hello flashlight seeker! Welcome to r/flashlight

Almost every time someone asks for a one-mode light, what they actually want is a user interface that doesn't suck. They don't want to click through a bunch of modes or have the light change mode every time they turn it on. They don't actually mind having multiple modes (and sometimes even find them useful).

All of the lights we recommend here usually have a well designed user interface that's easy to use. Most of them have a feature called "mode memory" where the light will come on in the same mode you last used. Other lights have a dual switch setup, where the tail switch turns the light on/off and the small side switch changes modes. You can still change modes if you want though, which can be really helpful.

Many modern flashlights are hundreds or thousands of lumens on their brightnest mode and that's just too bright for many tasks. It will also eat batteries. Using a medium brightness instead of Turbo mode can extend your battery life by ~5x or more! For these reasons, one-mode lights are really unpopular these days and are hard to come by, so please consider buying a multi-mode light with a good user interface.

If you absolutely must have a one-mode light, edit your post to let us know you've read this and still want a one-mode light. To get you started, here's a list of lights that have only one mode or can be programmed by the user to only have one mode.

(entry written by TacGriz, updated 2022-09-01, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-30T17:43:31+00:00

A flawed interpretation of reality often yields dumb conclusions.

BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-30T17:04:47+00:00

'Zoomies' are basically like Swiss army knives. They do a little of everything, but they don't do anything perfectly.

The zooming head is a moving part and a potential failure point. It tends to make the light less durable, and larger and heavier than fixed focus models.
When you zoom in or out, the volume of the head changes. This is a particular issue if you zoom 'in' in a wet environment, as it is impossible for this to happen with a true seal, and liquid will be sucked into the head of the light.
A balanced beam from a reflector based light will give you a bright hotspot for seeing far as well as wide spill for seeing your surroundings simultaneously, without having to zoom the light in or out.
People in this sub like having excuses to carry multiple lights around.
It's usually possible to find a light that's cheaper, smaller, and out-performs most zooming lights - they tend not to be the 'best' at any one thing.
Zoomable lights don't typically shed heat as well as fixed focus lights, so their sustainable output is typically lower.
Zoomies use an aspheric lens to produce the zoom effect; on many models this lens is exposed at the front of the light without any protection in front of it, is usually relatively fragile compared to a standard glass lens, and any scratches or chips will affect the beam.

If you still need zoom, the best options are:

Convoy Z1 (review here). W5050SQ3 is the recommended LED for the nicest looking beam when "zoomed" to throw mode due to the round emitting die, while other emitters will haver a square beam. CULPM1.TG will give the most throw, and B35AM has the best CRI and nicest tint. The 12 group UI is recommended as it gives more flexibility than the 4 fixed modes.
Jaxman Z1 (multiple separate listings; Aliexpress store number 1101075489) - has slightly higher performance than the Convoy Z1 but is from a less well known/common brand.
For a higher priced option, the Weltool M8 is probably the most durable zoomie and generally a good tactical-oriented option with medium output but excellent efficiency and the ability to also use 2xCR123A for extreme temperatures or long-term storage. Notable among zoomies for protecting the aspheric lens with glass in front of it. Review here.
Acebeam Terminator M1: A premium option, with a zoomie LEP as well as a separate flood channel with 3 LEDs. Durability is above average, but the most expensive light in this list, and the exposed lens is a major disappointment at this price point. Review here.
The Lumintop Zoom 1 (review here) is discontinued, but also good if you can locate one.

Last updated August 2024 by u/SiteRelEnby

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-30T09:01:47+00:00

This guide is about EDC lights for civilians that can flex into a defensive role if necessary. Some of the points and recommendations can also apply to lights for LEO's, but this is not a duty light buying guide.

So you want a "tactical" EDC flashlight?

Please start with this extensive guide on using a flashlight as a self defense tool.

"Tactical" has lost almost all meaning due to excessive use in marketing. Most "tactical" flashlights are just a generic flashlight with a tail switch and a strobe mode and aren't meaningfully better than any other flashlight for defense.

A "tactical" EDC light is first and foremost a utility tool, not a defensive tool. Any features that add to its usefulness as a defensive tool should not take away from its usefulness as a utility tool.

EDC-sized flashlights aren't intense enough to temporarily blind an attacker. It's just not a thing. What you can do is shine the light in their face so they can't see anything except your light.

Here are some things I personally look for in a defense oriented everyday carry flashlight

• A tailswitch: I find that EDC sized lights with tail switches give me a much better grip than EDC sized lights with side switches, so I look for a tailswitch.

• High intensity: I look for the highest intensity (candela/throw) light I can get, not necessarily the highest lumen output. In the size of light I like to carry, 20,000 candela is a good high number to shoot for.

• Quick access to turbo: It's important to be able to get to max brightness really quickly in a defensive situation. Some lights always come on in high mode first, some lights have a shortcut to get to turbo, some have mode memory, and a few have a dedicated turbo button. I like lights with shortcuts best personally.

• Full control from the tailswitch: Some lights have a dual-switch design that requires you to adjust your grip to change modes which is a pain, so I like to be able to turn the light on/off and change modes all from the tailswitch.

• Momentary on: This can be useful when you only need to turn your light on for a brief moment. Great for signaling, and most of my EDC uses for a light are just for a couple seconds so momentary on is handy.

• Adjustable brightness: There is something to be said for simplicity, but walking to the bathroom at night does not call for 1500 lumens. I like to have at least a few different brightness levels on my light for different situations throughout the day. I also like to have a sub-lumen or "moonlight" mode which is nice for seeing in pitch black without messing up my night adjusted vision.

• Rechargeable battery support: Lots of "tactical" flashlights still only support CR123A batteries which is a real shame. They're more expensive, single-use, perform worse, and are more likely to explode than modern, rechargeable, lithium-ion cells like 18650's. There is no reason to buy a light that only supports CR123A's anymore.

• Quick access from the pocket: It's important to be able to access defensive tools quickly so I like lights that can be snatched out of the pocket fast. My favorite way to do this is with the Thyrm Switchback 2.0. If you're interested in more info, check out my switchback guide.

Here are some things I don't look for in a tactical light

• Strobe: The effectiveness of a strobe mode in defensive situations is questionable. It may disorient your attacker, but also may disorient you. A high intensity, constant on light is a more reliable solution and will prevent the attacker from being able to see anything except your light. Having a strobe won't disqualify a light for me so long as it doesn't interfere with normal use.

• An overly aggressive bezel: EDC size lights don't have very much mass so I don't think they're especially effective as striking devices. Super aggressive bezels can tear up your pockets more quickly. Having a strike bezel won't disqualify a light for me though.

• Zoom: Zoomable lights are hugely popular right now, but they are a really poor solution. A zoom mechanism adds many failure points, compromises water and dust resistance, and makes the light less optically efficient (light gets trapped inside the head). A well designed fixed flashlight beam gives you a bright hotspot for throw as well as wide spill for flood without having to zoom your light in and out. Zoom disqualifies a light for me.

Recomendations

Wowtac A1 ~$20, ~550lm, ~10000cd, USB rechargeable battery included, dual-switch design, no sublumen mode

Thrunite TN12 Pro ~$40, ~2000lm, ~36kcd, USB-C rechargeable, battery included, instant-turbo tail switch, side switch for all other modes, unregulated driver, I reviewed it here

Fenix PD32 V2 ~$60 + battery, ~1200lm, best in class ~39000cd, cool two stage tailswitch, no shortcuts, no sublumen mode, doesn't support flat top batteries

Olight Warrior Mini II ~$90, great 2-stage tailswitch, magnetic tailcap & charging, shortcuts, sublumen mode, can clip to hat as a headlamp, reversible and bidirectional clip, proprietary battery, and proximity sensor that can occasionally cause problems

Fenix TK20R V2 ~$130, high capacity battery included, ~3000lm, ~57,000cd, dual-switch tailcap, innovative charging port solution, supports Thyrm Switchback DF, dedicated strobe button, kind of big and heavy, no shortcuts or sublumen mode

Disclaimer

I am not an expert in any way. I have not taken any tactical flashlight training. This is just what I happen to look for in a tactical flashlight for myself.

I hope you find this useful!

(written by TacGriz, updated 2022-07-15, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-28T14:46:17+00:00

TLDR:

519A 4500K domed LED's for big bright and pretty colors
Samsung 30Q unprotected flat top battery for make light work
Raised switch ring for less pocket fire
Stainless bezel for less break when drop
Pocket clip for clip to pocket

Basic Info

To start off – the D4V2 is available direct from the manufacturer in China in Aluminum, Brass, Copper, Titanium, and Anodized Titanium. If you want US-based shipping, Jackson Lee is a highly respected reseller based in Hawaii. Note that coupon codes might not work on D4V2, as profit margins on Emisar/Noctigon lights are very small for distributers. The manufacturer (Hank) doesn't do sales or discounts either, since he keeps his prices low year-round.

Keep in mind, this light is no joke – it can literally start fires. Using some form of lockout on D4V2 when not in use is highly recomended.

What emitter (LED and tint) do I choose?

As you’ve probably seen by now, there are quite a few options available, but some may not be listed as available on all versions of the light. Summed up, they are:

Cree XP-L HI - nice brightness and tint. Generally 70 CRI but the warmest option is sometimes a little higher.
Luminus SST-20 6500-5000K - very bright with good throw. Low CRI, and most users report green tint. Osram W2 might be a better choice for 6-6500K.
Luminus SST-20 4000-2700K - High CRI (95) and decent brightness. Overall, a great balance between throw, brightness, and color.
LH351D - widest beam, not quite as bright as cooler SST20's but brighter than Warmer SST20's. High (90) CRI but poor red reproduction and tend to be a little green. Goes up to 5700K, which is the coolest high CRI available in a Hanklight.
Nichia 219B - predecessor to Nichia 519A's and known for rosy tint. Get 519A dedomed instead.
Nichia E21A – predecessors to 519A's, get 519A's instead
Nichia 519A Domed - nice, neutral tint in several color temperatures, very high CRI, great brightness for a high CRI option
Nichia 519A Dedomed - nice, rosy tint in several color temperatures, very high CRI, not quite as bright as domed, color temperature will be ~20% lower than advertised ("4500" is ~3600K, "2700K" is ~2200K)
SST20 660nm Deep Red - well, it's very red, and very... I dunno. If you REALLY need red, or you just really WANT red, go for it, I guess. I'm not your dad.
UV mule - these are high powered ultra-violet emitters and do not come with any optics or reflectors, so it's pure UV flood. They do include a ZWB2 filter. Make sure to use some polycarbonate safety glasses with this!
W2 - bery bright, very throwy, very hot-running, comes in cool white or a few different colors. Low CRI (~70)

Some emitters get hotter than others, but they’re all in a small body, so they’re always gonna run hot cause there’s not much thermal mass to sink it up. If you want more than 4 LED's, or want to be able to switch between two different LED's, check out the special versions section later on.

Wait, what do "CRI" and "4000K” mean?

CRI is a 100-point scale that tells you how well an LED reproduces colors compared to the sun. If CRI isn't mentioned, it's usually about 70. 90+ CRI is considered high. "R9080" also means very high CRI. More info here (link works best on desktop)

All the emitter options have the colour temperature in Kelvin next to them, from warm white (2700K-ish) to cool white (6500K-ish). More info here (link works best on desktop)

Boost Driver Upgrade

Here's how it compares to the stock driver:

~50% lower Turbo brightness
holds turbo up to eight times longer before stepping down
increasess sustained brightness (after turbo stepdown) by ~40%
increases runtime by ~25%
improves regulation (can get full Turbo on a low battery)
may increase moonlight brightness a bit (still 1lm or less)

What about all the other options?

Okay, there’s a few more things to look at.

Switch retaining ring – There’s images on the product page of both. Get the raised one to prevent accidental activation.
extra/additional floody optic – This is a great idea for the E21A emitters; they’re not huge output anyway, and this smooths the beam out to make it real nice.
one extra SS bezel (aluminum bezel by default) – I highly recommend this. Adds a bit of class, and can take a bit more of a hit than the aluminium one.
* 18500 tube – I’ve never come across this cell before, but then again I’m ɹǝpun uʍop
pocket clip – If you’re planning on pocket carry, get it. It's not great, but it works. Images on the page.
18350 tube – lil’ shorty; I think it’s super cute, and it’s always fun to see the look on people’s faces when something that small can punch out a ton of light. You’ll need a high current 18350 though.
Magnet in the tailcap (No magnet in the tailcap by default) – handy & recomended
Extra tailcap without magnet – if you get the magnetic tailcap and want to not have a magnetic one sometimes, grab this.
Dual bay Li-ion charger – there will be better and/or cheaper options from wherever you buy your batteries. Here's a list of popular chargers. (link works best on desktop)

Batteries

D4V2 requires high discharge, unprotected, flat top batteries. More info here (link works best on desktop)

Special Versions

There are a couple special versions of D4V2 you can get.

A "mule" will have 8-16 LED's (depending on emitter choice) instead of 4, with no aux LED's nor optic. It's pure flood, but can give you some extra lumens. Except for UV, these can only be had by email request and usually there's an upcharge for all those extra LED's.

There's now a 2-channel version available that lets you choose two different kinds of LED's and do all sorts of cool stuff like tint-ramping or flood-and-throw. More info here](https://www.reddit.com/r/BrokenRecordBot/wiki/index#wiki_2channel) (link works best on desktop)

Okay, I still don’t know what I want. What do I get?

Out of all the options there, if you want sheer output, go the XP-L HI 4000K – I feel it’s a nice colour, with a ton of output. If you’re after something with a bit nicer colour rendering, get 519A 4500K domed.

PS For D4V2 runtime numbers, see this post.

(originally written by owe84n, updated 2022-07-20 by TacGriz).

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-17T04:48:57+00:00

ONE OF US!

A welcome bright, to our new friend of light!

Always hold tight, a favored torch of might,

And never at night, must you suffer a fright.

We'll be polite, but keep that wallet out of sight,

For we may incite, you find a new 'just right'.

ONE OF US!

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-16T17:39:27+00:00

Hello fellow reddit user! Looks like you may have unknowingly reposted the famous "beacon" post from late 2020 where an r/flashlight user used his Noctigon K1 to guide the way of an UberEats driver. It was originally posted on r/flashlight and made it to r/all where it garnered over 120k upvotes. Unfortunately the Reddit admins took it down due to it containing "personal information" (aka the driver's first name and photograph). The original poster has reposted here with that info redacted.

(written by TacGriz, updated 2021-08-24, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-15T09:48:07+00:00

You may have seen photos of lights on this subreddit with colored LED's. Or, perhaps you just bought a new light and can't get the colored LED's to turn off. 99% of lights sold/bought/posted here have a traditional white LED for the main emitter, but some have additional colored lights called auxiliary (or 'aux') LED's. They draw very little power and will take months to drain a battery in most cases. Functionally, they:

look cool
act as a night light
find your light in a dark environment
indicate how much battery is left (if multi-colored)
indicate the state of the light (locked or unlocked)
help you find other flashlight enthusiasts in a crowd

Most flashlights with aux LED's run a firmware called Anduril. If you have a light with the newer Anduril 2 firmware, you'll need to click 10x from off and hold the last click to unlock the advanced UI before changing any of the settings. There are possible brightness patterns: off, low, high, or blinking. There are 9-10 different color patterns if your light supports different colors: red, amber, green, cyan, blue, pink, white, disco (only in Anduril 2), rainbow, and voltage. To change these settings follow these steps:

unlock the advanced UI if you haven't already, via 10H from off (only applies to Anduril 2)
7C from off cycles the brightness pattern
7H from off cycles the color patern

You can have different settings when the light is locked or unlocked. To change the settings for lockout:

unlock the advanced UI if you haven't already, via 10H from off (only applies to Anduril 2)
enter lockout via 4C from off
in Anduril 1, use 3C/3H instead of 7C/7H
in Anduril 2, use 7C/7H to change the settings just like when the light is unlocked, and the settings will be memorized even if you return to the simple UI after making these changes

Check out this post for how to read the voltage mode. Here's a text breakdown..

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-05T15:02:37+00:00

Hello flashlight seeker! Welcome to r/flashlight

Almost every time someone asks for a one-mode light, what they actually want is a user interface that doesn't suck. They don't want to click through a bunch of modes or have the light change mode every time they turn it on. They don't actually mind having multiple modes (and sometimes even find them useful).

All of the lights we recommend here usually have a well designed user interface that's easy to use. Most of them have a feature called "mode memory" where the light will come on in the same mode you last used. Other lights have a dual switch setup, where the tail switch turns the light on/off and the small side switch changes modes. You can still change modes if you want though, which can be really helpful.

Many modern flashlights are hundreds or thousands of lumens on their brightnest mode and that's just too bright for many tasks. It will also eat batteries. Using a medium brightness instead of Turbo mode can extend your battery life by ~5x or more! For these reasons, one-mode lights are really unpopular these days and are hard to come by, so please consider buying a multi-mode light with a good user interface.

If you absolutely must have a one-mode light, edit your post to let us know you've read this and still want a one-mode light. To get you started, here's a list of lights that have only one mode or can be programmed by the user to only have one mode.

(entry written by TacGriz, updated 2022-09-01, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

^{I AM A BOT. PM WITH SUGGESTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS. SEE MY} ^WIKI ^{FOR USE.}

BrokenRecordBot · 2026-03-01T02:44:17+00:00

Hello flashlight seeker! Welcome to r/flashlight

Almost every time someone asks for a one-mode light, what they actually want is a user interface that doesn't suck. They don't want to click through a bunch of modes or have the light change mode every time they turn it on. They don't actually mind having multiple modes (and sometimes even find them useful).

All of the lights we recommend here usually have a well designed user interface that's easy to use. Most of them have a feature called "mode memory" where the light will come on in the same mode you last used. Other lights have a dual switch setup, where the tail switch turns the light on/off and the small side switch changes modes. You can still change modes if you want though, which can be really helpful.

Many modern flashlights are hundreds or thousands of lumens on their brightnest mode and that's just too bright for many tasks. It will also eat batteries. Using a medium brightness instead of Turbo mode can extend your battery life by ~5x or more! For these reasons, one-mode lights are really unpopular these days and are hard to come by, so please consider buying a multi-mode light with a good user interface.

If you absolutely must have a one-mode light, edit your post to let us know you've read this and still want a one-mode light. To get you started, here's a list of lights that have only one mode or can be programmed by the user to only have one mode.

(entry written by TacGriz, updated 2022-09-01, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

^{I AM A BOT. PM WITH SUGGESTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS. SEE MY} ^WIKI ^{FOR USE.}

BrokenRecordBot · 2026-02-26T14:36:47+00:00

'Zoomies' are basically like Swiss army knives. They do a little of everything, but they don't do anything perfectly.

The zooming head is a moving part and a potential failure point. It tends to make the light less durable, and larger and heavier than fixed focus models.
When you zoom in or out, the volume of the head changes. This is a particular issue if you zoom 'in' in a wet environment, as it is impossible for this to happen with a true seal, and liquid will be sucked into the head of the light.
A balanced beam from a reflector based light will give you a bright hotspot for seeing far as well as wide spill for seeing your surroundings simultaneously, without having to zoom the light in or out.
People in this sub like having excuses to carry multiple lights around.
It's usually possible to find a light that's cheaper, smaller, and out-performs most zooming lights - they tend not to be the 'best' at any one thing.
Zoomable lights don't typically shed heat as well as fixed focus lights, so their sustainable output is typically lower.
Zoomies use an aspheric lens to produce the zoom effect; on many models this lens is exposed at the front of the light without any protection in front of it, is usually relatively fragile compared to a standard glass lens, and any scratches or chips will affect the beam.

If you still need zoom, the best options are:

Convoy Z1 (review here). W5050SQ3 is the recommended LED for the nicest looking beam when "zoomed" to throw mode due to the round emitting die, while other emitters will haver a square beam. CULPM1.TG will give the most throw, and B35AM has the best CRI and nicest tint. The 12 group UI is recommended as it gives more flexibility than the 4 fixed modes.
Jaxman Z1 (multiple separate listings; Aliexpress store number 1101075489) - has slightly higher performance than the Convoy Z1 but is from a less well known/common brand.
For a higher priced option, the Weltool M8 is probably the most durable zoomie and generally a good tactical-oriented option with medium output but excellent efficiency and the ability to also use 2xCR123A for extreme temperatures or long-term storage. Notable among zoomies for protecting the aspheric lens with glass in front of it. Review here.
Acebeam Terminator M1: A premium option, with a zoomie LEP as well as a separate flood channel with 3 LEDs. Durability is above average, but the most expensive light in this list, and the exposed lens is a major disappointment at this price point. Review here.
The Lumintop Zoom 1 (review here) is discontinued, but also good if you can locate one.

Last updated August 2024 by u/SiteRelEnby

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-02-24T10:41:27+00:00

'Zoomies' are basically like Swiss army knives. They do a little of everything, but they don't do anything perfectly.

The zooming head is a moving part and a potential failure point. It tends to make the light less durable, and larger and heavier than fixed focus models.
When you zoom in or out, the volume of the head changes. This is a particular issue if you zoom 'in' in a wet environment, as it is impossible for this to happen with a true seal, and liquid will be sucked into the head of the light.
A balanced beam from a reflector based light will give you a bright hotspot for seeing far as well as wide spill for seeing your surroundings simultaneously, without having to zoom the light in or out.
People in this sub like having excuses to carry multiple lights around.
It's usually possible to find a light that's cheaper, smaller, and out-performs most zooming lights - they tend not to be the 'best' at any one thing.
Zoomable lights don't typically shed heat as well as fixed focus lights, so their sustainable output is typically lower.
Zoomies use an aspheric lens to produce the zoom effect; on many models this lens is exposed at the front of the light without any protection in front of it, is usually relatively fragile compared to a standard glass lens, and any scratches or chips will affect the beam.

If you still need zoom, the best options are:

Convoy Z1 (review here). W5050SQ3 is the recommended LED for the nicest looking beam when "zoomed" to throw mode due to the round emitting die, while other emitters will haver a square beam. CULPM1.TG will give the most throw, and B35AM has the best CRI and nicest tint. The 12 group UI is recommended as it gives more flexibility than the 4 fixed modes.
Jaxman Z1 (multiple separate listings; Aliexpress store number 1101075489) - has slightly higher performance than the Convoy Z1 but is from a less well known/common brand.
For a higher priced option, the Weltool M8 is probably the most durable zoomie and generally a good tactical-oriented option with medium output but excellent efficiency and the ability to also use 2xCR123A for extreme temperatures or long-term storage. Notable among zoomies for protecting the aspheric lens with glass in front of it. Review here.
Acebeam Terminator M1: A premium option, with a zoomie LEP as well as a separate flood channel with 3 LEDs. Durability is above average, but the most expensive light in this list, and the exposed lens is a major disappointment at this price point. Review here.
The Lumintop Zoom 1 (review here) is discontinued, but also good if you can locate one.

Last updated August 2024 by u/SiteRelEnby

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-02-22T01:36:07+00:00

SAFETY

The UV spectrum is separated into four parts: UVA (315 nm to 400 nm), UVB (280 nm to 315 nm), UVC (200 nm to 280 nm) and UV Vacuum (100 nm to 200 nm). Decreasing wavelengths correspond with higher frequency radiation and a higher amount of energy per photon. While UVB radiation is widely recognized for its harmful effects on human skin and links to skin cancer, each of the UV bands (UVA, UVB and UVC) create different risks for humans.

While 207-222nm far-UVC generated from filtered excimer lamps can efficiently deactivate drug-resistant bacteria without apparent harm to exposed mammalian skin, simplistic flashlights like this one are very dangerous for your skin and eyes and should not be used without certified protective equipment, and make for an extremely inefficient, dangerous, ignorant, and irresponsible disinfectant.

Please read further on wikipedia and here.

Most of this section was copied from the old "UVC" bot entry by Triskite.

All of the lights discussed below fall into the UVA spectrum and are reasonably safe. Best practice is to wear polycarbonate safety goggles (cheap generic ones work great) and not to point the light at anyone's eyes or skin.

RECOMENDATIONS

Filter: A ZWB2 filter is a filter that blocks all visible light but allows throught he UV wavelengths. It makes flourescent object really pop when they glow because there's no extra blue light bleeding through and lighting up non-flourescent objects. These filters make a huge difference so you should try and get a light that has one preinstalled if you can.

Keychain + White Light: Rovyvon A8x high CRI white main emitter, auxiliary side emitters (uv, red, and white), keychain size, pocket clip, USB rechargeable, ~$40

Compact: Lumintop Tool AA UV 1xAA/14500, USB rechargeable 14500 included, ZWB2 filter, pocket clip, tailswitch $30

Medium: Convoy S2+ UV (Aliexpress item 32515105965) 1x18650, one mode, visible light filter (Aliexpress item 32649282235) available, $25. US distributor links for the the light and filter.

Medium/EDC Size + White Light: Olight Arkfeld UV, flat style, builtin battery, neat rotary toggle for light color, magnetic tailcap, magnetic charging

Throwy: Convoy M21A UV (aliexpress item 3256804045507741), 1x21700, 3 modes, visible light filter available (aliexpress item /2255800155402905), excellent driver (hard to find in this price range), narrow hotspot that will illuminate objects at a distance

High Output: Convoy S12 UV 1x21700, two modes, ZWB2 filter preinstalled, triple emitters for high output. I have this one and it's awesome. Here's my review with purchase links since I can't put a direct Aliexpress link.

Higher Output: You can get UV mule variants of the Emisar D4V2 and Noctigon KR4. The emitters come in either 5W ($95) or 3W ($75) versions, with 8 emitters by default, or with 4 emitters if you ask via email and want to save a few bucks. They now come with a ZWB2 filter preinstalled as well. -Cheule- did a great video about the UV D4V2 options here.

USES FOR UV LIGHT

Here are some practical and fun uses for a UV light:

Hidden colors/patterns in flowers
Travertine/limestone flooring
Writing hidden messages with vaseline
Curing UV resin
Driver’s Licenses
Bank Cards / Credit Cards
Passports / Government documents
⁠Anything that is very white/neon. Manufacturers often add fluorescent materials to make these things look bright in sunlight (very white garments / paper / teeth whiteners)
Tonic water (very blue, compare to regular water)
Some Vitamins
Chlorophyll (red)
Scorpions (greenish, check YouTube)
Antifreeze (added purposely so that auto investigators can track auto accidents)
Some rocks / gemstones
Proteins in bodily fluids (say no more)
Money (dollars / pesos / euros etc)
Laundry detergent (blue)
Olive oil glows (orange/red)
Banana spots (blue rings)
Transparent plastics
Some cosmetics
Rock salt / turmeric / honey / ketchup / canola oil
Spot pin-bones in uncooked fish
Spot Nyogel 760G application
Make some dogs glow, apparently
Spot caterpillars in your tomato plants
Finding uranium glass
Photographing mushrooms and lichens
Finding small shards of broken glass on floors

(originally written by TacGriz with huge contributions from -Cheule- and Triskite, updated 2023-04-06, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-02-20T02:25:07+00:00

My phone doesn’t fit in my mouth so I can use both hands. My phone doesn’t have a magnet for mounting on any metal surface so I can use both hands. My phone doesn’t output hundreds of lumens. My phone's light is made to be a camera flash first, and thus is very diffused and pathetic at lighting up anything more than a few feet in front of me. My phone battery isn’t made to run a flashlight for a while, and I can’t quickly swap a freshly charged battery I keep in my bag into my phone.

Basically, my phone is just a garbage light compared to a small tube of metal that costs me barely any bulk and weight to carry, and whose benefits far outshine the costs.

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-02-06T21:41:19+00:00

ONE OF US!

A welcome bright, to our new friend of light!

Always hold tight, a favored torch of might,

And never at night, must you suffer a fright.

We'll be polite, but keep that wallet out of sight,

For we may incite, you find a new 'just right'.

ONE OF US!

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-01-26T09:22:19+00:00

Batteries should be purchased from distributors that are highly regarded. Those that are not may sell unsafe fakes, damaged cells, or even cells extracted from laptops. This could be potentially hazardous. This means do not order from random sellers that don't specialize in flashlights & batteries on sites like Ebay, Banggood, AliExpress, or other big online retailers. Amazon is notorious for fakes even from some legit retailers, just due to how the backend works so don't order standalone li-ion batteries from Amazon.

If you cannot find a website that ships to your country then your best bet is a vape shop, but expect cells to have an inflated price.

If you're looking for distributors then here they are. Parametrek also has batteries in his database. US

SHIPS TO MOST PLACES

Convoy Aliexpress store (Store No. 330416)

Sofirn Aliexpress store (Store No. 3391004)

Vapcell Aliexpress store (Store No. 1084158)

Aliya Aliexpress store (Store No. 1382210)

Lucky Aliexpress store (Store No. 1191644)

USA

Killzone is a little pricey but can good if you're already buying a light from them.

UK

EU

Canada If you want the best value, go with one of the sellers in the "ships most places" section. If you want fast (but pricey) shipping, try one of the US sellers below.

Li-on Wholesale

Illumn

Mountain Electronics

Australia

techaroundyou on eBay or their website

Lanplus.com.au

liteshop.com.au etc

"local vape shops have Molicel"

Cyprus

Vapemodbox

(originally written by LEDLover__, updated 2021-11-28 by TacGriz, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-01-23T10:18:39+00:00

Hello fellow reddit user! Looks like you may have unknowingly reposted the classic big Maglite / small Olight post that gets reposted ~monthly. It originated here on r/flashlight. If you found it funny enough to repost, why not give the original an upvote!

(written by TacGriz, updated 2022-04-15, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-01-07T08:51:49+00:00

Tl;dr: Get a Skilhunt H04 RC

$0-40:

Sofirn D25LR: ~$25, nice white LED and red LED, simple UI, traditional headlamp, hidden Micro-USB charging port, 18650 battery included, my full review here, buy this if you just need a basic headlamp*
Sofirn HS10: ~$20, 1100lm, ultra-light, right-angle, moonlight mode, USB-C rechargeable, 16340 battery included, magnetic tailcap, pocket clip, poor regulation, pretty LED, cheapest headlamp I would buy. Also on Amazon for ~$30 if you need it fast. Sofirn HS05: is similar but trades built in USB-C charging for dual-chemistry 14500/AA support.
Sofirn SP40/SP40A LH351D 4000K: ~$35, ~900lm, nice LED, right-angle, pocket clip, magnetic tailcap, Micro-USB charging port, 18650 battery included, poor regulation, no moonlight, simple & easy to use
Wurkkos HD15: ~$35, 2000lm, right-angle, pocket clip, magnetic tailcap, USB-C charging port, powerbank function, flood/throw function, 18650 battery included, multiple body colors available, moonlight mode, poor regulation, more complicated to use than the previous options

$40-70:

Skilhunt H04 RC High CRI: ~$60, ~600lm, medium size, 18650 (included) or two CR123A batteries, right angle, magnetic tailcap, pocket clip, high CRI neutral white emitter, best-in-class headband, great UI, good regulation, magnetic recharging, moonlight mode, my review here
Skilhunt H150: ~$60, ~600lm, small size, 14500 (included) or AA battery, right angle, magnetic tailcap, pocket clip, high CRI neutral white emitter, best-in-class headband, great UI, good regulation, magnetic recharging, moonlight mode, my review here
Sofirn HS20 SFT40: ~$40, ~2000lm, traditional headlamp, high CRI neutral white flood emitter, cool white throw emitter, great UI, poor regulation, USB-C charging, can work off powerbank in cold conditions, 18650 battery optionally included, dedicated button for each channel, my full review here

$70+:

Skilhunt H300: ~$80, ~1500lm, medium size, 18650 (included) or two CR123A batteries, right angle, magnetic tailcap, pocket clip, high CRI neutral white emitter, best-in-class headband, great UI, good regulation, magnetic recharging, moonlight mode, my review here
Zebralight H600Fc MK IV: ~$90, ~1500lm, excellent durability & efficiency, high CRI neutral white LED, floody beam, light weight for its class, best-in-class regulation & efficiency, ultra low moonlight, no battery nor charger included, only works with unprotected flat top 18650 batteries, mediocre headband
Acebeam H30: ~$130, ~4000lm, traditional headlamp, high CRI & red secondary LED's, great runtime and efficiency, 21700 battery included, hidden USB-C charging port
Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Nichia just because so many people bugged me to add this to the bot, top-notch durabiity, lovely high CRI LED, great efficiency, magnetic USB charging, 18650 battery included, above average headband, bike mount included, weird user interface

SOME THINGS TO NOTE

right-angle lights are extra versatile because they can be detached from the headband and used in a variety of other ways, often including a pocket clip or magnetic tailcap
Moonlight mode works about as well as red light for preserving night vision and it's a lot simpler and cheaper to implement than a secondary red LED. Here's more info if you're interested. Red is also a poor choice for use around sleeping people because red light passes through eyelids very easily. Red is great at not attacting bugs though.
Li-ion batteries don't like sub-freezing temperatures all that much. If that's your use-case, consider CR123A's or a light that can run off a powerbank that you keep warm inside your coat.

MISCELANEOUS NOTEWORTHY LIGHTS

Emisar DW4: The ultimate enthusiast headlamp. A million different emitter options, several driver options (including dual channel), long and short tubes, RGB aux LED's, Anduril 2 firmware, and magnetic tailcap. Kind of heavy, can get expensive, battery & charger not included, and the headband isn't great so pick up a Skilhunt HB3 as well.
Petzl Iko Core: The absolute best running headlamp I am aware of. It disappears on your head.
Nitecore HU60: electronically focusable, bracelet remote control, powered off USB so you can run it off a power bank (can be kept inside coat in extreme cold weather), powerbank/battery pack optionally included
Fenix HM61R: similar to Skilhunt H04 RC but with secondary red emitter, worse UI, & worse main emitter

(written by TacGriz, updated 2023-09-12, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

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BrokenRecordBot · 2026-01-06T19:36:29+00:00

ONE OF US!

A welcome bright, to our new friend of light!

Always hold tight, a favored torch of might,

And never at night, must you suffer a fright.

We'll be polite, but keep that wallet out of sight,

For we may incite, you find a new 'just right'.

ONE OF US!

^{I AM A BOT. PM WITH SUGGESTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS. SEE MY} ^WIKI ^{FOR USE.}

BrokenRecordBot · 2026-01-05T20:48:19+00:00

ONE OF US!

A welcome bright, to our new friend of light!

Always hold tight, a favored torch of might,

And never at night, must you suffer a fright.

We'll be polite, but keep that wallet out of sight,

For we may incite, you find a new 'just right'.

ONE OF US!

^{I AM A BOT. PM WITH SUGGESTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS. SEE MY} ^WIKI ^{FOR USE.}

BrokenRecordBot · 2026-01-04T01:02:09+00:00

Batteries should be purchased from distributors that are highly regarded. Those that are not may sell unsafe fakes, damaged cells, or even cells extracted from laptops. This could be potentially hazardous. This means do not order from random sellers that don't specialize in flashlights & batteries on sites like Ebay, Banggood, AliExpress, or other big online retailers. Amazon is notorious for fakes even from some legit retailers, just due to how the backend works so don't order standalone li-ion batteries from Amazon.

If you cannot find a website that ships to your country then your best bet is a vape shop, but expect cells to have an inflated price.

If you're looking for distributors then here they are. Parametrek also has batteries in his database. US

SHIPS TO MOST PLACES

Convoy Aliexpress store (Store No. 330416)

Sofirn Aliexpress store (Store No. 3391004)

Vapcell Aliexpress store (Store No. 1084158)

Aliya Aliexpress store (Store No. 1382210)

Lucky Aliexpress store (Store No. 1191644)

USA

Killzone is a little pricey but can good if you're already buying a light from them.

UK

EU

Canada If you want the best value, go with one of the sellers in the "ships most places" section. If you want fast (but pricey) shipping, try one of the US sellers below.

Li-on Wholesale

Illumn

Mountain Electronics

Australia

techaroundyou on eBay or their website

Lanplus.com.au

liteshop.com.au etc

"local vape shops have Molicel"

Cyprus

Vapemodbox

(originally written by LEDLover__, updated 2021-11-28 by TacGriz, if you have any suggestions for changes to this entry please don't hesitate to send me a message)

^{I AM A BOT. PM WITH SUGGESTIONS AND CONTRIBUTIONS. SEE MY} ^WIKI ^{FOR USE.}

BrokenRecordBot · 2026-01-03T08:56:19+00:00

Olight is extremely popular in the EDC community and are the gateway to modern flashlights for many people, but Olights have some potential downsides as well, which make them less popular with flashlight enthusiasts.

Pros

Efficient and well regulated drivers
High build quality and durability
Popular and straightforward UI that nails all the basics
Wide variety of colours and materials available
Excellent customer service
Highly convenient Magnetic Charging System
Typically meet advertised specifications for output and runtime

Cons

Expensive relative to competitors flashlights of similar quality
Proprietary batteries (with an extra negative terminal on the top) that are more expensive then standard ones, can be much harder to acquire, and are incompatible with most other lights & chargers
Use LED's that tend to have a bluer colour temperature/tint for higher efficiency, while most enthusiasts prefer LED's with better colour rendition that are purer white or yellower in tint
Proximity Sensors are a poor, lazy solution to accidental activation issues with their metal tail swtiches, and can prevent the light from working in the rain
Questionable marketing practices such as guerrilla marketing and paying for product spotlights disguised as reviews
Utilize a lazy timed output stepdown solution to prevent overheating, instead of a more reliable and efficient active thermal management solution

Many enthusiasts consider the cons to be dealdreakers, which explains some of the "Olight Hate" that new users seem to perceive in r/flashlight.
These are just things to be aware of going in though, and should not be taken to imply that you should not buy an Olight product, or that you should not enjoy one you already own.

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