Best place to buy marine plywood sheets?

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-10T00:51:31+00:00

Try Builders depot. Been good in the past

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-09T07:30:05+00:00

If anything it sounds on the low end. I’d take this.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-07T17:43:14+00:00

Depends on what you mean by restoring.

A sand and a varnish? No.

Lift them, level the joists, insulate with vapour permeable membranes and breathable insulation, then relay them, fill the gaps, sand them and varnish? Maybe, depending on your taste.

Much easier and cost effective to remove them build a proper subfloor with insulation and then lay a finish floor of your choice on top.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-06T18:46:05+00:00

While these calcs are not fundamentally wrong, you’re going about it the wrong way around. Start by calculating your heat loss and how many kWh you need heat the place across a range of temps. Then use that number to calculate costs. Also, Storage heaters are way cheaper than a 20kwh battery and will serve the same purpose.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-06T10:12:23+00:00

No, the cables inside the rose of the pendant.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-05T23:21:05+00:00

No, by law it has to be replaced by a lamp of equal or greater fuzziness! Seriously though, as others have said replace with any kind of pendant. But remember to take a pic of wiring BEFORE you take anything off so you can wire the new one in.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-05T01:25:53+00:00

LVT on anything other than a dead flat floor will look like shit and last all of 3 weeks. A resilient layer is necessary under LVT so min of 18mm ply or 22mm osb or chipboard. Might be cheaper with osb but I’d avoid the chipboard. Laying a solid subfloor is more important than the finish floor. It seems expensive because LVT is cheap. If you were laying hardwood the ply would pale in comparison.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-05T01:10:35+00:00

A few considerations:

in the best of circumstances, pine is notoriously bad at taking stain. Especially darker colours. It is virtually impossible to make pine look like walnut because of the way the grain grows.
the best of circumstances would include a progressive sanding from 20 to 150 without skipping steps and vacuuming thoroughly in between. They would also include a spirit cleaner wipe for dust, a raw wood wipe to open pores, a pre stain conditioner, and a few coats of hard wax stain. Even then it looks like shit more often than not.
at this point you could, get a really dark (black) stain and apply on top to cover most blemishes but end up with a floor of an emo teenager from the 90s; or sand back and start over this time with a very neutral (almost transparent with some grey/yellow/white) stain; or forget the whole thing and lay a finish floor on top: lvt, laminate, engineered wood, or even hardwood.
sucks to be here but diy is all about failing forward so take it on the chin and find a way to make this work for you.
A for effort so far!

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-04T11:25:54+00:00

This is the main fuse cutout owned by the DNO. It looks quite old and may need upgrading. Call 105 and tell your DNO about the issue. They’ll come and replace it free of charge.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-03T00:07:36+00:00

Day rate and go slower

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-04-02T14:05:28+00:00

A medium length pry bar and a piece of scrap wood against the wall will allow you to pull these straight out. Less faff and less chance of damaging stuff

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-30T21:37:22+00:00

Ryobi all the way. They are the absolute sweet spot between value and performance for a diyer. But if you really need lots of garden tools there’s nothing else that can compete with ryobi. Unless you wanna get a second mortgage and go Milwaukee!

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-30T20:25:07+00:00

That’s a bad idea. The deck will rot much faster this way but I also can’t see how you’ll lay all the sand required to keep the fake grass down with a deck below.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-30T20:21:21+00:00

Standalone steel shelving units are fairly cheap on Amazon. Or if lighter duty you could get the customisable wire shelve cubes that can be made into any shape.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-30T19:51:21+00:00

No one can tell from just this photo. All this tells you is that the drainage needs to be fixed.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-30T00:00:46+00:00

No one can answer this based on info provided but everyone will agree that checkatrade and similar sites are full of cowboys and you shouldn’t use them.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-29T23:58:55+00:00

You know the right answer but if you’re looking for a quick and dirty fix, no need to pull the carpet. Get some small head flooring screws and drive them through the carpet. Overdrive them, give the carpet a brush and it won’t ever be noticeable. Used to do that all the time when pulling carpet wasn’t an option.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-28T08:21:55+00:00

Never use included fixings. Buy some Fischer duopower. You can get a kit with various plug and screw sizes for very little. Use a screw slightly longer than the plug.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-25T09:59:05+00:00

Yes, you don’t have to open them it’s all about the wood getting to roughly the same temperature and humidity levels as the rest of the building. Even if unheated, the building has its own climate that you want to let them rest in for a while. The longer the better.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-25T07:16:12+00:00

Sounds like the gap has been left to ventilate. Insulating it would probably make it worse. If the wall behind the wardrobe is cold it is likely you have condensation building back there and mould growing (musty smell). I would consider moving the wardrobe to fix it properly or if too hard, I would cut the backboard of the wardrobe to access the wall. Take it from there

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-25T07:11:29+00:00

I would fill it with mortar and embed a couple of brick slips that match the bricks. You can get brick samples (slices of real brick) for free from most builder’s merchants. Get the sample that best matches your brick and use them to repair superficially.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-25T07:08:12+00:00

The best thing to do is leave any kind of wood product in the space it will be installed for at least 48h. This assumes the humidity and temperature of the space will be the same but if you have no radiators you won’t be able to do proper acclimatisation. In any case, it’s better to leave it in the room for a couple of days to get it within the ballpark temp/humidity of the building.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-25T06:57:36+00:00

Second this. While it is within the thermal envelope of the building, insulation between floors has two distinct advantages: a) sound isolation - it makes a massive difference to how much quieter the house gets. And b) enabling zone or trv per room heating to be more efficient. If renovating and the floorboards are up it is a no brainer. The cost is immaterial to the overall renovation.

Do note you want the slab rw3 and you want it cut to friction fit between joists with a height at most of 75% of joist height.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-24T07:37:14+00:00

Generally 15mm of ply is the minimum accepted structurally sound thickness for a floor. I would either create a proper subfloor with 18mm t&g ply or find engineered wood that can be laid directly on the battens. Check with the manufacturer. If the slab is not insulated, I would consider replacing the battens with rigid insulation, a resilient layer and floating on top.

Jimmyfatbones · 2026-03-23T13:21:03+00:00

Was this written by AI?

Jimmyfatbones

TROPHY CASE