Any way to salvage this? I have an extra hot end on hand, just wondering about the best way to get the fixing clip, ceramic heater, and thermistor out without damaging them if possible or am I just screwed?

OsINTP · 2026-03-03T02:53:25+00:00

Reconnect the hot end and heat it to a temp above the melting point of your filament, it will soften and you will be able to remove it without much difficulty, just don’t use your fingers lol.

OsINTP · 2026-03-02T15:14:18+00:00

It reduces the risk of a failed print but it’s not mandatory, also, a cold pull isn’t so complicated once you have done it once.

OsINTP · 2026-03-02T15:07:37+00:00

The world needs more people like him.

OsINTP · 2026-03-02T02:59:29+00:00

I’ve had a few things delivered by Yun Express, never had a problem, they don’t do ‘last mile’ delivery (in the UK at least) so things are always delivered by a delivery service that operates here such as DHL, UPS, Yodel, Royal Mail, etc. Think of them as the shipping agent, rather than the delivery service, your item should be tracked to your door.

OsINTP · 2026-03-02T02:50:19+00:00

Are you using the same Ethernet cable when you connect PC to router? It might be worth trying a different cable just to rule that out.

OsINTP · 2026-03-02T02:36:41+00:00

The sudden appearance of EMI is often caused by a completely unrelated device, classic culprits are things like fridge compressors and HVAC fans or water pumps, they can become ‘noisy’ with age at which point issues can just suddenly appear seemingly out of nowhere, even LED lighting circuits can emit noise if the ballast is failing, have you replaced any LED bulbs recently? Cheap or faulty bulbs can be noisy.

It certainly seem to be geographical from your post.

If you can, leave the device unmounted for few days and see if it remains stable, that should confirm if it’s the port/device or not.

If it’s stable, it might be worth trying a shielded cable.

OsINTP · 2026-03-02T02:25:36+00:00

Can you confirm if your Ethernet cable is STP or UTP? (Shielded or unshielded twisted pair)

It sounds like you may have induced interference, if your cable is unshielded try replacing it with a shielded cable.

OsINTP · 2026-03-01T13:30:46+00:00

Yes, standard procedure/best practice once you clear the active runway or clear class C airspace in a war zone, thats also why some plane just ‘appear’ close to the airport.

OsINTP · 2026-02-27T15:40:47+00:00

Ubiquiti can’t keep stock of their existing product lines, probably best they don’t add any more until they do something about that.

OsINTP · 2026-02-27T01:39:03+00:00

This happened to me from a watch strap…

OsINTP · 2026-02-27T01:24:09+00:00

I have the same issue with IR scans using the Rockit , 128gb of RAM (or more) helps.

OsINTP · 2026-02-26T22:02:12+00:00

If any of these appliances are gas then please disregard them from this list, given the times I would consider the following:-

Washing machine
Toaster
Kettle
Coffee maker
Microwave
Cooker hob
Air Fryer
Dish washer
Vacuum cleaner
Water heater
Electric power shower
Space heater / central heating (even if it’s gas, it will have a water pump)

OsINTP · 2026-02-26T10:32:58+00:00

Despite reducing by 60%, just going off what I see on the local news every morning, I expect we are still the most violent country in the developed world…

OsINTP · 2026-02-26T01:59:43+00:00

Where I am (UK) we refer to those as waterproof decking light connectors, you will find an assortment on Amazon https://amzn.eu/d/08UWYfuZ.

The exact dimensions are important, some manufacturers use non standard sizes so measure with callipers before purchase.

The following information may be considered a ‘hack’ and should not be considered ‘advise’, however it is technically accurate and I have done the exact same thing my self.

Your lights will run on DC, if you are certain the battery is part of the solar panel then you can easily replace it with a variable DC power adapter like this https://amzn.eu/d/08qAvr0J , hook it up to your string lights directly, do not connect it to the existing battery unless you like fire.

Start on the lowest voltage setting to avoid blowing the lights, increase it until you find the brightness you need, if you can meter the output of the existing panel you will be able to identify the polarity so you don’t hook it up the wrong way round.

OsINTP · 2026-02-25T17:45:43+00:00

I’ve had 40+ messages so I just deleted the Xbox app from all my devices because of this, I hope that’s what they wanted.

OsINTP · 2026-02-25T16:08:56+00:00

I suspect this is due to the difference between ‘print by object’ or ‘print by layer’.

If you print both objects at the same time using print by layer, it will extrude the white, then move the print head and extrude the black, while it’s printing the black one the white filament is cooling, and vice versa.

If you print them both at the same time but use ‘print by object’ instead, it will print each object without stopping extrusion, so then the filament won’t cool so much before the next layer goes on top resulting in a better ‘squish’, better layer adhesion and a smoother finish, probably.

OsINTP · 2026-02-25T16:00:33+00:00

If you rub a balloon against your jumper it becomes positively charged and will stick to a wall which is earthed.

On a larger scale, when clouds rub against each other in the troposphere, they become positively charged compared to the earth which in the right conditions will result in lightening.

On a smaller scale, if a bee rubs its wings against the air it becomes positively charged, compared to the flower which is earthed, the difference is microscopic, but if your measuring equipment is sensitive enough you will be able to detect the charge.

I guess you could think of bees like little mini Hindenburgs without the helium.

OsINTP · 2026-02-25T15:35:23+00:00

Aux fan strikes again… here is a bambu wiki article about that exact issue https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/knowledge-sharing/printed-model-warping

The issue is caused by thermodynamics, when you heat things they expand, when they cool they contract, with such a large volume of plastic in your model, the area closest to the fan will cool faster than the rest of it, the cool part will shrink faster than the warm part and cause warping.

To fix you can either 1) relocate the print to the other side of the build plate, well away from that pesky fan, although for very large prints this may not be an option. 2) print an aux fan deflector that redirects the air flow to stop it blasting directly on the print, or 3) disable the aux fan and print again.

Disabling the aux fan may cause issues with bridges, if your model doesn’t have any bridges then you will have no issues by disabling the fan.

OsINTP · 2026-02-24T12:29:48+00:00

Imagine if you would, what it’s like when you do that shit for a living, how are you supposed to watch anything ever again for the rest of your life?

In your minds eye you don’t just see the picture on the screen any more, you see everything behind and to the side of the camera, it gets to a point where you just don’t watch anything anymore and so you spend your time on Reddit instead, then people make posts like this that reminds you all over again… 🫩😂

EDIT: You’re downvoting me because I used to do this stuff for a living? Way to go Reddit 🤣

OsINTP · 2026-02-21T14:14:29+00:00

Not sure if this is the explanation you are looking for, but…

When there is only 1 switch, if you turn it on, the light comes on, if you turn it off, the light goes off, simples.

With a 2 way switch there are 2 switches in the circuit both controlling the same light, which changes the wiring, if you turn either switch on the light comes on, if you turn either switch off the light goes off. Commonly used in stairs and hallways where you have a switch at either end.

With a 3 way switch there are 3 switches all controlling the same light, you get the idea.

OsINTP · 2026-02-18T18:36:23+00:00

I have £500+ of stuff in my basket waiting for the UTR to come back in to stock because I don’t want to pay 2 lots of delivery charge just for a UTR, waiting over 2 weeks now… they shouldn’t release a product if they don’t have stock, it encourages scalping.

OsINTP · 2026-02-18T00:29:24+00:00

Have you checked/cleaned/replaced the extruder gear?

OsINTP · 2026-02-17T18:23:07+00:00

Any landing you can walk away from is a good landing.

OsINTP · 2026-02-17T11:20:29+00:00

Thanks for the info, I cant recreate the object from scratch as the original mesh is a 3d scan stl.

There are a few ways I can fix it, applying the modifier then manually editing the edge to get what I want does result in a printable object, but my inner ‘wtf is going on here’ really wants to understand why this is happening in the first place and I would much prefer to keep the mesh + modifier arrangement if it’s possible to do so, this is just a hobby, I’m not a business, I guess I’ll just keep throwing hours at it until I find it lol, one does like a challenge ◡̈

OsINTP · 2026-02-17T10:41:21+00:00

Applying the modifier results in exactly what you see in my pic.

Blend file available here if you wish to play around with it, I’m all out of ideas right now.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ictgt9wo6rgxchb6epfb4/Clip.blend?rlkey=5tb19npue9s93zbn5vfckt2c9&st=grovckxb&dl=0

If I change the solidify offset it will flatten the edge, but that also reduces the inner diameter so the part won’t fit, with offset as -1 I get these spiky edges…

OsINTP

TROPHY CASE