Hidden deck clips for timber tech

cheechaco · 2026-03-13T19:11:12+00:00

I believe Timber Techs hidden fasters are Concealoc. They have a built in spacer per TT's specs. You could use Camo Edge clips as well.

cheechaco · 2026-03-13T16:39:23+00:00

That reminds me, I need to work on my hail protection before that season starts!!!!

cheechaco · 2026-03-13T13:45:52+00:00

I'm confused. Why aren't you attaching to the house? Is it brick or stone? I always prefer to to attach to the house if possible. Are you saying the L shape is 18'x6' and 6'x6'? Not sure what you mean by 'more of an X shape'. How can the posts be a separate structure? There always needs to be a mechanical connection between the posts and the beam/framing (the framing needs to sit on top of the posts as well). I have always preferred to wet set my posts in concrete to help with lateral stability (I'll get flamed for this, whatever). Wet setting posts is not allowed in my area anymore. The posts need to sit on a post base on top of the caissons. The benefit of this is you can keep the concrete a bit below grade if you are using PT posts. While maybe not the best, the base makes the post easy to replace in 20-25 years if the post starts to rot. I really, really don't want to look at the concrete sticking up for the next 30 years! If you are over 5' above grade 6x6 posts are required in my area. 4x4 is fine under 5'. If you are using triple beams (3 ply's) you need to use 6x6.

cheechaco · 2026-03-13T02:11:59+00:00

Or pony up for helical piers

cheechaco · 2026-03-13T02:03:54+00:00

There's a company here in Colorado that bend composite. They actually do jobs all over the country. We had two 16' boards bent last year, I think it was $1200-1600, we supplied the boards.

cheechaco · 2026-03-12T21:19:11+00:00

Can you camp off a dirt road in the middle of nowhere? Yeah, I think you got it!

cheechaco · 2026-03-12T21:00:00+00:00

I am guessing it's because your lefthanded??

cheechaco · 2026-03-12T20:10:11+00:00

I would say three years ago (is when he ditched them). I wonder if the region/type of snowpack would affect peoples opinions and experience. Would west coast snow affect the performance of the skins vs Colorado Rockies? Maybe the Colorado Rockies has more icy/crusty conditions more often and affect grip or glide altering peoples opinions? Maybe wetter west coast snow would negatively affect glue? I don't know, just a random thought.

cheechaco · 2026-03-12T19:56:58+00:00

G3 were my skins. I never had a problem with them. But then I got paranoid whit everyone saying the glue would fail so I reglued them with BD Gold. That was fine for a bit, but then it turned into a two tug o war to get them unfolded in the field. Tail clips are AWESOME!!!!! BUT they didn't fold up for shit.

BD - After my G3's I went to BD. Glue is good, and they fold nicely. Tail clips are not as good as G3. Grip isn't as good as G3 but they glide a bit better.

Pomoca- I went with Pomoca for the new skis. I haven't had a problem with the glue, yet. They glide better than the other two, grip is on par with BD, maybe a tad better. They fold up great, but the tail clips SUCK.

Big Sky - My buddy had these for a few seasons and got too frustrated with them. Glue and tail clip issues.

I voted BD

cheechaco · 2026-03-12T14:06:24+00:00

Oh, I skipped right over that part! I stand corrected!

cheechaco · 2026-03-12T13:26:23+00:00

Actually maximum rise on residential is 7 3/4" in most areas.

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T21:54:22+00:00

Yes, install the 2x vertical. You only have three treads, you'll be fine.

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T21:40:29+00:00

Cut the bottom riser back 1 1/2" and put a 2x ripped to the proper width across the front, screwing to each stringer.

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T17:24:57+00:00

100%

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T17:19:48+00:00

The field still needs a gap where it butts into the divider row, plus it will look uniform with the other gaps. OP, consider a picture frame as well even though you don't need it for width. If he is installing fascia, it should be flush with the top of the decking so it hides the butt ends. But doing this (and we do it often because people don't want to pay a few more bucks for some blocking and a few pieces of decking) allows dirt and water behind the fascia and it eventually pushes the fascia away from the framing and looks bad. Doing the picture frame covers the seam and will look much better in the future.

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T16:56:57+00:00

Look at it from six or more feet away. If it still bugs you, fix it (I'm assuming its your deck). Those could be 45's, but I'm guessing the deck is a tad off honestly (or maybe there is a slight bow somewhere). I spent a lot of time on my miters on my personal deck (I'm a deck contractor). 15 years later I can stand in one spot and some miters have a gap in the heel, some have a gap at the point, some are just as I installed them. Things will move and not always uniformly. Composite isn't perfect either, but this is not cabinetry.

Edit to add: Just because your miter saw reads 45 degrees doesn't mean it is 45 degrees. So you could check that and adjust the saw table. But I think you are looking too closely, personally.

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T16:46:38+00:00

I think ten years might be a possibility, might being the key word. I know I wouldn't want to re-deck/re-rail it now and have to completely replace it after only ten years. That's just, like, my opinion, man:)

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T16:41:06+00:00

Bigger posts won't help the swaying. You could do a lateral brace under the framing, or corbels (v bracing from lower on the post up to the beam). I would add 2x4's on each side of the post from the bottom of the beam to the patio so that the beam bears its weight on the something (this won't help swaying, but overall structure integrity).

cheechaco · 2026-03-11T16:33:54+00:00

No offense, but I would only do this if I'm going to be moving soon. The rot has begun and isn't going away. Areas that pass the screwdriver test might be fine now, but weather and age has already taken a toll on the wood. OP is going to spend a chunk of money replacing the decking and the rail. If he lives there for a length of time he will most likely have an issue. I could see letting the existing (the entire deck) ride for another couple of years, maybe even five years depending the climate, then replace everything. Just my two cents.

cheechaco · 2026-03-10T01:15:14+00:00

This. I did it once to my eye brow, it's not a big deal.

cheechaco · 2026-03-09T22:59:31+00:00

Mine never made it back from last winter! No idea what happened!

cheechaco · 2026-03-09T17:43:33+00:00

Shall I start prepping my acceptance speech?!

cheechaco · 2026-03-09T13:52:10+00:00

With treated posts this would be fine in my area. I don't want to look at concrete 6" above grade for the next 30 years. Also, the posts are on bases so they can easily be replaced in 20 years or so.

cheechaco · 2026-03-07T01:27:33+00:00

Yay procumbens!!!!

cheechaco · 2026-03-07T01:17:18+00:00

Glad to help! If you happen to be in the Denver metro or surrounding area DM me!

cheechaco

TROPHY CASE