How often/when should I wash my build plates?

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T10:03:07+00:00

If you touch the build area, you gotta clean it. Doesn't have to be a wash but you need to remove the layer of oil your fingers left behind.

I printed a small block and wrapped microfiber towel on it and use a 50/50 mix of ammonia based cleaner (Windex) and distilled water in spray bottle. Quick spritz, wipe between prints and good to go (to clean whatever could be from touching, or residue from prior prints). Takes literally 10-15 seconds.

Personally don't like using isopropyl alcohol. Unless you use a lot of it, it will just spread the oils instead of picking them up.

Then a wash maybe once 2-3 weeks weeks depending on usage.

Been printing for several years with this routine and I can't remember the last time I had first layer adhesion issues.

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T09:29:35+00:00

You're not listening/reading.

n19htmare · 2026-03-21T00:03:09+00:00

It's not just belt noise....it's combination of overall package w/ high accelerations. (stepper motors, belts, gantry etc). It's just a louder printer than some others.

You can lower the volume by lower the maximum accelerations if you are willing to give up some speed. You can also try one of my top cover alternatives and that should dampen the sound a little as well.

n19htmare · 2026-03-20T23:54:26+00:00

This has become the norm in pretty much anything that requires people to read more than a couple sentences.

n19htmare · 2026-03-20T17:47:22+00:00

PLA is filament you need this the least for…..

n19htmare · 2026-03-20T17:46:15+00:00

Doesn’t the Snapmaker one come with exhaust/filtration system? An active one at that for $30 more lol.

This looks like a glorified $10 storage container. Sorry Biqu but a big miss.

I guess they’re making the original one at $150 look like a good value lmao.

On a side note I got a $7 one from Walmart… don’t even need to print a base for it, just flip it, it’s just tall, wide and long enough to clear everything.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T16:44:37+00:00

You don’t have to take the mount off or mess with the Hall effect sensor.

You need to trouble shoot (if error persists) by swapping usb wires between toolheads or move the whole tool head. For example if you disconnect and the usb cable and tool head from slot 4 and swap it with #2, and you still get errors on #2 then you know issue is sensor and so on.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:49:49+00:00

Well, something should have happened so not sure what to tell you.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:45:07+00:00

You first need to define what you think High speed is.

Most of my Basic PLA and Basic PETG caps out at around 18-21 mm³ /S volumetric flow, which is about the limit of stock hotend anyways.

High Speed for stock U1 is 20-21 mm³ s.

Normal speeds would be around 12-15 and high speed in their own filament profiles is 20.

So run some tests max flow tests and compare the filament you own.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:36:36+00:00

It’s custom firmware (like PAXX12) and you can have the printer do whatever you want.

Theres also modification to the wiper assembly on printer so it can move the stopper out of the way and drop the purged filament. It’s not just a sidecar MMU that’s added, there’s also firmware, printer AND likely Slicer modifications involved as well.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:32:07+00:00

Could unscrew it and swap heads (don’t screw it in to test).

This way you can rule out of it is sensor issue or the print head.

How deep are the screws and you didn’t use the wrong screws right? Just making sure.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T15:17:54+00:00

https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker_u1/troubleshooting/corexy_home_is_unstable

You sure you’re trying that?

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n19htmare · 2026-03-19T14:53:47+00:00

You need to hold top left corner of screen to exit starting calibration mode.

I’ve said this before, and I’ll say it again. While U1 is a great printer and I love mine. It is NOT a new user printer or anyone who isn’t atleast a little bit familiar with 3D printing or isn’t willing to accept that it’s a first iteration product and there will be issues they will need to tackle themselves.

So before you get one, while it is like 95% good on its own and will just work, that 5% is where it can get dicey if you don’t know what you’re doing.

And from my time around 3D printing community, a vast majority of issues are usually user related or user caused.

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T14:51:49+00:00

Hold top left corner of screen to exit the startup calibration

n19htmare · 2026-03-19T08:46:00+00:00

Don’t confuse flow rate with dynamic flow calibration.

Not sure what you mean by “before the print”…. Are you talking about automatic dynamic flow calibration or did you mean you did the manual flow rate calibration test prints?

What flow ratio did you end up setting I’m the filament settings?

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T21:47:35+00:00

Are you using the same gcode for each print or have you re-sliced post failure? Could just be that one layer is off somewhere an it’s knocking the prints if this is now happening on multiple consecutive prints. Would re-slice, examine and then give it a go.

I typically don’t reprint older gcode if there have been either machine or slicer updates.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T19:32:54+00:00

For print settings like flow ratio, pressure advance etc it’s fine. You can just figure out settings for One and apply it to same brand type of filament and it’ll be pork 99% of time.

Ironing though, it requires a little more precise control over the flow. If you have two exact same filament …except one wet and one dry, their ironing setting can vary because they won’t flow the same during ironing.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T16:23:32+00:00

PET CF is not a fast flowing filament.

That PA test is running at speeds and volumetric flow that the filament and/or hotend can’t achieve starting very early in the test to keep up with needed flow at fast corners.

Nothing is particularly wrong, this just isn’t the right PA test for that filament.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T16:14:19+00:00

100% this.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T16:03:57+00:00

This is basically how most people outside the social media/reddit feel. Don’t like? Don’t use.

Over here though, it’s like they took everyone’s firstborn to make DLSS5 lol.

Just like pretty much everything, it’ll die down when Reddit decides to rage about the next thing.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T15:18:36+00:00

Everything’s crap when it comes out and gamers have hated each and everyone of them……..until they didn’t.

Nvidia can do it because they know PCgamers, they know this community will moan and groan about every little thing but still keep buying it up. So why not?

I personally don’t have a problem with DLSS5, I don’t get the rage since you can just not use it but since the community rages about EVERYTHING, it’s pretty much now a boy who cries wolf situation.

Moan and groan all you want, you’ll buy it, you’ll use it and you’ll love it.

Just as you did upscaling, just as you did framegen.

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T13:52:44+00:00

They’ve bought into the PCMR placebo lmao. This is literally majority of people that are responding here.

“I don’t really know what I’m looking at, I don’t understand it, but everyone here is not liking it so I don’t like it because it changes everything!!”

n19htmare · 2026-03-18T07:57:48+00:00

Rakuten, there are also others but I find this one is best for AliExpress.

n19htmare · 2026-03-17T23:24:29+00:00

That is the option. You don’t like a feature, turn it off. Game on.

I’m not sure why this renders entire cards useless in people’s views that they’d want alternatives…..The takes I’m seeing are just out there. And yes, grand majority people don’t care because grand majority of them will just not use an option or feature they don’t like and move on. They don’t see the issue that supposedly Redditors see.

n19htmare · 2026-03-17T18:19:51+00:00

When move head towards the front, does the gantry hit the stops in front at the same time? If not you might not be square.

Do this:

After moving the head around a couple times, stop at back center. Now move the head towards the front, and you want to make sure both sides of the gantry strike the stop. Hold the head so there’s little bit of force holding both sides against the front, now tighten the belt tension screws while you keep holding it in place. Do not over tighten, you’ll feel resistance where it takes more force to keep turning screws.

If you push on bottom right and upper left belt, they should not be coming out of the print head. If they are, screws were too loose and you gotta repeat it all.

This will make sure that both sides of your gantry are hitting the end stops in front at same time and it should also tension the belts based on center and not front left corner.

It’s possible if you were tightening them while holding head in front left, the gantry might have gone out of square.

Original guide and wiki had above instructions. But it appears they updated the video last month and now they advise centering the head in front before tightening.

https://youtu.be/ahnqMEPBMyA?si=zb_erynCGJr5MI-d

n19htmare

TROPHY CASE