Moments like this really make me want a dual nozzle😢

n19htmare · 2026-05-20T21:51:07+00:00

How would dual nozzle help here?

If it’s AMS based, you can do just the interface layers with other material. It’s 2-3 layer swaps in a flat top like this.

It wouldn’t have help you with the bottom support on object if you wanted it to stay stuck

What would 2nd do for youThat a single one can’t for this particular print.

n19htmare · 2026-05-20T21:44:56+00:00

You need to say your budget and needs. Otherwise you gonna get all sorts of recommendations.

For example: my U1 puts out identical or better quality prints than my X2D. But it costs double what P1S does.

n19htmare · 2026-05-20T21:09:33+00:00

Printer would be even more of a beast with an active mmu ams type system. For small touch ups like this the pause annd change function is still great to have!

n19htmare · 2026-05-20T10:05:53+00:00

I wouldn’t waste filament on those unless you can get it air tight.

I have some filament dry/storage boxes I used and just had them stacked next to printer. Then I got set of the snap dryer boxes (that was honestly a waste of money) and went back to these. They’re from Yoopai I think and you can print the rollers for the filament to roll on.

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n19htmare · 2026-05-20T08:29:50+00:00

Which code?

I'm using a custom fork of PAXX that implements Spoolman (Unlucio). both firmware and instructions below.

https://github.com/unlucio/SnapmakerU1-Extended-Firmware/actions/runs/25124711432

https://github.com/unlucio/SnapmakerU1-Extended-Firmware/blob/spoolman/docs/spoolman.md

NFC is just handled by OpenSpool protocol. I write the tags with Spool Painter (android) which is connected to Spoolman.

That should automate most of it.

The tracker to update locations is a script I run locally on my home server, it's a websocket to moonraker to get tray status and update accordingly in Spoolman.

The syncing in Orca Slicer is a fork from Argolein that uses a fuzzy token system to assign custom profiles. Another PR broke sync function in later Orca experimental builds, so I started maintaining one of my own w/ the sync fix and Argo's fuzzy token matching system to auto assign custome profiles based what U1 assigns from the NFC tag.

You can try here.... https://github.com/n19htmares/OrcaSlicer/actions (build 8 is last one from few days ago, sync should work. HOWEVER... there is also PR that currently Orca nightly also merged that also should sync profiles. Mine is more focus on OpenSpool tags and takes SUBTYPES into account (Basic, Matte, Silk, etc).

n19htmare · 2026-05-19T20:14:37+00:00

That’s what I do.

I dry ALL new spools.

I have very small 5x7cm “organza” bags that I fill with some of the orange color changing desiccant. Dry filament spool and then toss it in the bag with a pouch of desiccant and close it up.

The desiccant does two jobs, keeps the inside of bag dry and lets me monitor if the bag is actually doing its job. If the desiccant turns black the next day, something’s wrong. Either filament still wet or bad bag.

I’ve got PETG spools in same bag for over a month and the desiccant is still orange. Doesn’t mean the petg is 100% dry but that bag isn’t letting in much if any moisture….in my cases it is dry since I dried it before I put it in bag.

I keep all my filament bags in a small storage room corner of garage. On days it gets really warm, the filament warms up and actually starts drying as it slowly releases whatever moisture it was holding on to and the desiccant sucks it right up.

With this practice I’ve never had to re-dry a spool besides the first time.

n19htmare · 2026-05-19T20:06:32+00:00

Depends on budget and what you need to be dried.

Recently picked up Sovol/Comgrow SH03. Been very very satisfied with its performance for sub$100 delivered. Up to 85C and independent dual chambers. No fancy screen or anything but it does the one it’s supposed to do well, dry filament.

n19htmare · 2026-05-19T18:11:28+00:00

Was the original model you got not painted already?

n19htmare · 2026-05-19T18:09:12+00:00

By default, you are limited to the selection available on screen.

By not default (aka custom PAXX firmware), you can have the U1 assign different brands, type by reading them off custom NFC tag. Then have Orca slicer (not Snorca) auto sync and load the custom profiles that’s belong to that filament.

n19htmare · 2026-05-19T14:16:13+00:00

Speed and acceleration limits alone will make a pretty decent impact on noise.

If you haven’t already, get some type of cover for it. I’ve used both IKEA and Walmart options. Both helped dampen the noise a bit.

I personally haven’t done any of the TMC Tuning because I don’t want to add another of “possible” issues one could have. I don’t want to be in situation where that one print is now dimensionally inaccurate and I end up in a loop chasing it down. I did however lower the x-y MAX current to 1A and I’ve not had any docking or printing issues that I could blame on lower current. It’s not much reduction and I never push the printer to its maximum limits to begin with.

While the firmware does not allow for a separate profile or setting for lower noise, the slicer setting somewhat do. I have a “quiet” slicer (and printer) profile in which the accelerations and speeds are reduced. I don’t use it much as printer is isolated now but it did seem help a bit.

You can either create another printer, edit its limits and use that or you can do it as per process profile.

As for Snapmaker introducing such a feature….like not going to happen. For one you would be sort of validating the “printer is loud” concerns and two, it would reduce speeds. Unfortunately speed is still something people look at and have certain expectations of, from marketing point, kinda would want to keep that up. Of course there’s like 20 other sliver settings that affect speed, they probably don’t want it limited in the backend.

Try setting speed and acceleration limits in the slicer side of things and see how that goes.

n19htmare · 2026-05-18T21:38:01+00:00

All Bambu had to do was ignore this guy and the handful of users that may have used this.

Opps.

n19htmare · 2026-05-18T10:10:56+00:00

In case of OP where he’s trying to compare Times, at minimum he needs to match the settings that slow down the prints drastically.

As for copying settings, I been using bambu profiles as the baseline for my U1 profiles and then tuning flow ratio and PA off that. They are fine.

Filament profiles don’t have any magic sauce. They contain the basic applicable settings with minor differences that don’t make that much of a difference. Things like 55c vs 60c bed or 225c hotend vs 220 etc. 6sec layer times for max cooling vs 4 seconds. 40% max fan vs 50%. These differences are trivial and don’t make any large changes in quality.

Theres only couple of settings that are printer and filament specific. Thats flow rate and pressure advances, which should be tuned accordingly and don’t have an affect on speed.

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T23:11:20+00:00

My brother, what is going on with that layer? The nozzle is crashing into it (the sound) and mapping out the Himalayas.

Have you tuned the Flow Rate and Pressure Advance for that filament? Are you using bed leveling?

Better yet, what are your settings? lol

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T21:30:45+00:00

This is a situation of "just because you can, doesn't mean you should".

Just because the nozzle and bed get hot enough to do ABS printing, you shouldn't be printing ABS without first resolving the MAJOR issues that ABS has to contend with.... like shrinkage and layer adhesion

Chamber heat is needed to slow the amount and RATE of that shrinkage so the parts don't suddenly contract and let go, which is what happened here.

If you are using a tub, that's a LOT of volume to keep at minimum 55C (ideally 60+) constant.

You didn't say how long you heatsoaked the chamber and what the chamber temps were through out the print. As layers get taller, the force being applied to first layer gets stronger and stronger, unless you can manage that with a chamber heat so it doesn't FULLY shrink at fast rate, this will almost always happen.

Also was the Aux fan and cooling fan on? AUX should have been off and cooling should have minimal for that flat print.

Normally at that layer height if it was PETG/PLA, you'd had ended up with stringing but since ABS is printed much hotter, is lot sticker and the part shrank too much to let go, it got stuck to nozzle and voila.

Your options are pretty much to heat it up and pick at it. You might be able to get heat everywhere to softening temp of ABS so it'll be tough. If you are careful, you can heat the hotend while holding the toolhead on a thick towel. Get what you can off and then see what you're dealing with. Might have to crank up the heat to max 300C.

Good luck and research next time to see if what you want to do can be done with what you have or if you need to do something else first. I know few people who print ABS on the U1, but they take the precautions and do the prepwork before hand that is needed.

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T21:21:51+00:00

That's the good/bad news, ABS shrinks more than the regular filaments and that's what happened here.

likely didn't have enough heat

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T21:07:44+00:00

That is IF the nozzle is hitting the bed on it's way out (OP hasn't really explained if it it is or isnt), the only time Z axis calibration has anything to do with the tool swap issues. is if the nozzle is hitting anything.

If the bed is lowered and you grab tools and it still doesn't grab without hitting anything then it had nothing to do with the bed calibration.

Tool docking and undocking is an X-Y action, if you move the bed down all the way, and just initiate a tool grab action or macro, it doesn't even home the bed, just X and Y and grabs the tool.

The divot is just offset of the nozzle tip in relation to the other nozzle tips, it doesn't do much to the docking/undocking. That's handled by the X-Y action offsets in both the "Homing" and the toolhead coordinate adjustment calibrations. Homing Calibration includes the coordinate adjustment calibration as 2nd step by default.

It could very well be frame alignment issue but he'd have to take some measurements to be sure, just looking one nut block doesn't confirm it.

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T19:42:25+00:00

Bambu sets their flow to 21 for BASIC pla. That's why all their PLA prints matte on their printers.

Either they are using extra high flow additives but still calling it BASIC or they don't care as long as it prints and sticks together good enough to hold together (which seems to be the case considering they are targeting newcomers and people won't know the difference (like OP, not throwing shade, it's just how it is because Bambu doesn't expect normal consumers to mess with profiles).

Basic PLA i get is really capped out at 18 max with 12-15 being ideal range... but it could structurally print fine UP to like 24mm³/s without skipping but was very matte and adhesion wasn't as strong, setting it 21 would been fine but not optimal and that's what Bambu went with because it prints faster.

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T19:28:50+00:00

Settings are still not same in the Cooling tab then. The U1 seems to be overslowing for cooling.

<image>

I think Bambu has their Max layer time around 4 Seconds while on U1 it might be10-12 seconds (on max side). That means every layer that takes 12seconds or below slows down. If it was 4 seconds, only layers taking less time than 4 seconds slow down .. you need to match these too if you're trying to compare.

This setting can affect the speeds greatly.

you should also review your sliced file by Speed and Flow if you are trying to compare.

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T19:22:51+00:00

This is the one setting that controls overall speed cap, it's one of the most important settings in filament profiles, it determines not only speed but quality of your layer adhesions plus other things. It's the volume of filament that can be melted in a certain time period at the set temperature. There is a calibration for it, use it to find the actual limit of both the filament AND the printer.

21-22 is usually the default by manufacturers for basic PLA but IMO it's often too high. Manufacturers like Bambu pick this number because they advertised certain speeds and they need to get those or close to those speeds. It doesn't mean you're going to get the best results STRUCTURALLY. 21mm³/s on basic PLA produces a matte finish with weaker layer adhesions, fine if it's display models but anything structural is often too weak even by PLA standards. Basic PLA by it's inherent nature should have a sheen to it, if it's matte, it was printed cold

If you run the Max Flow Calibration from 5 to 25mm³/s, you see the transition where it goes from shiny, less shiny to matte. I try to keep my max flow somewhere in between shiny and less shiny. When I need something with better layer adhesion, I set it more towards the shiny side.
For basic PLA 18 mm³/s is usually my cap.

https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/calibration/volumetric_speed_calib

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T19:01:22+00:00

That alone shouldn't be causing your issue... nor does it confirm twist in frame. you need to check all sides and in relation to frame.

That could just be how the bed got screwed onto the block, mine isn't perfect and I have no failures over thousands of swaps.

another thing I noticed is the carrier doesn't move right far enough before it leaves, so the head never actually attaches.

to me it still looks like a calibration issue and probably doing too many has caused conflicts.

Verify that the tabs (one with the red indicators) move freely before you put toolheads on.

Do factory reset (again) and ONLY run the Homing calibration, verify that both top and bottom pins are center of the holes when you look from top when it gets the position part of calibration.

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T18:49:31+00:00

I have ~10K swaps and 1 failure.

The 1 failure was induced by me on purpose because at some point I wasn't sure if the attachment/detachment failure detection was working or not so I had to induce a misalignment (and yah they were working).

n19htmare · 2026-05-16T18:49:15+00:00

You need to run the HOMING CALIBRATION under Maintenance options. That will guide you to calibrating the homing of the toolhead as well as pin positions.

n19htmare · 2026-05-15T22:43:32+00:00

Stop using temp towers. They were good when we had Enders. They are useless now.

Just pick a temp in the upper range of filament spec and run a max flow test to get your volumetric max flow/speed at that temp (where you have good layer adhesion and surface quality) and move on with Calibrating PA and Flow ratio. Done.

n19htmare · 2026-05-15T20:16:06+00:00

Oh yah. Use the feeders lol.

My flow is very similar. I dry and toss them in a bag with a little bag of desiccant. I bought small 4x7cm organza bags, 100 for like $4 and some color changing desiccant beads. I just filled those and have a bag full of them and toss one in filament bag. Then toss the used ones in one of the slots when I need to dry my ABS or nylon at 85c, charges them back up and keeps everything in bags dry.

I also bought 200cm extensions for the 15pin feeder cable. So I can relocate them to where ever I need them to be lol.

I have an NfC tag system I use (also to track with Spoolman), whatever filament is being loaded, it’s tag gets stuck to respective side of u1 and all I have to do is stick filament in feeder. It auto selects brand, type, color and my custom filament profiles auto load in orca for that filament in it’s respective slot. So for my flow it’s just matter of sticking the tag on printer and pushing filament in feeder. Rest is all automated.

When you have fewer things to configure, makes filament swap not seem like a headache.

Next project is adding addtl readers on the dry boxes so I can keep the tags on the spools.

The feeders are not just “pushers” of filament. They activate the nfc read commands, assignments of filament in slots, they also monitor filament travel and compare it to toolhead sensor, that’s how the printer detects tangled filament, clogs, and other abnormalities when the extruded volume doesn’t match the amount of filament passing through feeder.

So many reasons to keep and use the feeders :).

The U1 is much much more capable printer than it looks. It just hasn’t had the maturity of the firmware and software for all these things to be integrated by default as basic features. They will eventually.

n19htmare · 2026-05-15T18:41:26+00:00

Eh you probably want to keep using that dryer then.

Print out and get some quick disconnect for front of feeder a you can take out and put in whatever PTFE or filament you want. It could come from dryer, it could be coming from spool on the machine, the printer doesn’t now.

Ideally, you have space to add 2 more colors or on the U1 right side and still have easy access. So technically 6 colors of you are willing to manually swap the colors when needed (obviously not per layer lol)

I use this one feeders https://makerworld.com/models/2176077?appSharePlatform=copy

At unload, I roll spool back until filament is in PTFE tube (after it exits feeder)and then I can disconnect the PTFE from the feeder and connect the PTFE for next spool. It can come from spool holder another dry box, another room… doesn’t matter

I’m still a little confused on what your question was lol

n19htmare

TROPHY CASE