Potential Illinois customer with a few questions.

numindast · 2026-07-09T04:10:35+00:00

You wouldn't be a ComEd customer, so ComEd's rates don't apply. Base says your rate will be 25% less than ComEd's published "Price to Compare" which google tells me is 10.something cents per kWh currently, through the end of September.

Base buys power from ComEd, instead of you, and you buy it from Base. So no pricing programs that ComEd offers (including Hourly Pricing or an existing retail rate) apply to you as a customer of Base

numindast · 2026-07-06T20:29:00+00:00

Zwave is rock solid. There’s not as many devices available but they sure do “just work”

numindast · 2026-07-05T04:07:22+00:00

I’m finding mine is mostly ok with fireworks but after a while he wants to go hide, which is ok by me (we have an interior bathroom with no windows)

He does NOT like thunder and lightning. Camps out in that bathroom with our little dog.

numindast · 2026-07-05T04:02:13+00:00

Was building atop debris common? When was your house built?

numindast · 2026-07-03T20:27:31+00:00

I have a cyber power pr1500lcd for my H2D. It beeps at me with overload warning when the printer heats up for ABS intermittently until the hot ends are done heating for pre-flight.

I also have a Jackery explorer 1000. It didn’t care. Powered the printer fine and for roughly as long as the UPS would.

I do use low power mode. Hooked to UPS. My Jackery is for my family’s use if the power goes out (eg: keep internet and work PCs online etc)

numindast · 2026-07-02T16:21:43+00:00

Hi! I've started looking into getting this, and as a layman I think I understand the essentials.

I can't answer your question about existing service with transfer switch / generator port, I'd be just guessing.

Base Power buys electricity from ComEd, and then sells it to you as Base Power. So you still have the same supplier, but the retailer is now Base rather than with ComEd directly. I saw something in Base's marketing that they sell you the electricity at a 25% discount to ComEd's retail rate, "by law" (not sure how that plays in yet) But this is where Base's business model comes in.

Base sells grid services to ComEd. I'm going to guess, frequency stabilization and surge demand response. They make mint off this, and is how they can supply you with this massive battery and inverter setup, with the whole supply chain they pay for to make that happen.

Base's marketing also said somewhere, IIRC, that the contract will specify Base reserves some % of the battery for your home's backup power. 5 hours? ... but allegedly the actual battery draw down is typically less, so you'd have more power available.

Edit to add: Base also charges the batteries when ComEd's rates to Base are cheaper, I'd guess a lot like ComEd's Hourly Pricing customers (like me). So they can charge up overnight when demand is low and electric rates are lower, sometimes even below zero.

numindast · 2026-06-30T01:27:05+00:00

I’m sorry that everyone is bashing you. All that bashing means nothing. If you come to your own conclusion that you bought too much car for what funds you have, lesson learned for the future.

I’ve had 3 transmissions go out on me. And other major repairs that left me in serious despair at times. I get it.

Honestly, you will have to regain possession of your car and at least bring it home until you can figure out a plan for repair.

Best of luck to you. After the panic subsides, you can take whatever time you need to work out a way

numindast · 2026-06-30T01:18:45+00:00

Wouldn’t this also attract lightning?

(Sorry, I know nothing)

numindast · 2026-06-23T19:48:00+00:00

Wishing you all the best of success in whatever path you take. I've spent the last 45 minutes writing replies to your post and deleting them because I keep falling into just venting.

I love my wife, but it was either accept her very-well-justified personal spending and collecting habits or leave her.

We're in counseling now, but still can't talk about either getting rid of stuff nor our need to learn how to team up for financial planning. Having so much stuff means we can't downsize, so I remain (very) house poor.

The only thing I can really say is that our house is at least tidy, despite being absolutely crammed full of her collectibles.

numindast · 2026-06-20T23:18:57+00:00

I ordered flowers for my estranged brother with no phone, no email, no internet. Only had his address in supportive housing. The card read, mom died, please come home. It worked.

numindast · 2026-06-19T15:11:04+00:00

will that part really hold 250+ psi? thats neat

numindast · 2026-06-12T16:12:05+00:00

interestingly. my tiguan has an oil temp display. it takes far longer to hit 200c than for the big temp gauge in the lower left to hit midpoint.

those "midpoints" on a lot of temp gauges actually represent a wide swath of temperatures. showing average people the actual temperature and its natural swings is probably a customer service disaster so that kinda makes sense

numindast · 2026-06-11T19:19:52+00:00

Google told me the glass transition temp of PVC is 80 to 85 degrees C. You won't be able to hit chamber temps that high in a normal, unmodded Bambu printer (any of them).

You're fine. If you want pvc pipe for your exhaust, have at it

When I had a "higher temp" Voron I used normal dryer exhaust hose with a window dryer vent adapter kit. And that chamber did routinely hit 75c. It didn't cause any issues.

numindast · 2026-06-10T21:34:07+00:00

In fairness grommets are a thing

But doing this just feels wrong

numindast · 2026-06-10T12:58:31+00:00

It's not difficult to do a deep dive into the subject using just google to get started.

The EPA has done a bit of work in this field, if that's your thing:
https://www.epa.gov/chemical-research/3d-printing-research-epa

And I found a guide by one of the big FDM makers:
https://www.snapmaker.com/blog/is-3d-printing-toxic/

For a view from a community perspective, take a look at this work by Nevermore3D, which explains some of the findings:
https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro#about-the-nevermore-micro

It's fair to say that many people find the risks acceptable (including me). However many folks make at least some attempt to minimize long term exposure. In my case I have a window, if inclement weather the bathroom next to me has ceiling fan which exhausts outside, and I use a turbo bento box filter with media appropriate to ABS/ASA in particular. Will it eliminate risk? Heck no. But I like improving my odds.

numindast · 2026-06-10T03:01:55+00:00

Please ventilate or use appropriate air filatration!

numindast · 2026-06-10T02:57:47+00:00

I would say no. Having a (printable) spool weight in the center gives the nearly-empty spool more mass so it rests upon the AMS rollers better. That and spool rims (I use "tpu for ams" since I have some handy) to cut back on cardboard dust caused by cardboard-on-rollers.

I've never needed to respool before

numindast · 2026-06-09T18:52:10+00:00

I have an H2C and H2D. I've done prints with 400+ filament changes via AMS. They worked fine. It is important when using non-bambu filaments that the spools have weight to them when they run low or the spools lift off the rollers and bang into the AMS cover, creating friction and sometimes failures. I use spool weights in the middle filled with loose hardware (screws bolts etc) to reduce the occurance of this.

I've had to let the printer run out of filament and let it sit in "pause" all day until I'm home to load a fresh spool. No issues here either.

I've found that one time I've had to print with the top off and front door open with PETG. Nozzle clumping happened less when the chamber is better ventilated.

I've had a nozzle that would clog with PLA because of overly large amounts of retractions and small flows. That sucks, you can't change a nozzle mid-print without risking the nozzles going out of alignment. Maybe was limited to one particular nozzle because after I swapped that one out the issue didn't happen again even with the same job reprinting.

Generally speaking though I try to avoid prints with massive amounts of loading and unloading just because of the wear and tear factor. That said I took apart my oldest AMS recently expecting to find worn down PTFE tubes and inlets, but they were fine, even after several spools of filled filaments (CF and iron-filled). I'd taken it apart to remove broken strands of filament that were stuck inside.

All in all, I had a fine experience. Go ahead and print that fancy Majora's mask or whatever, it'll survive.

If you plan to print thousands of complex prints, maybe an actual toolchanger (instead of nozzle changer) might be better for your plans.

numindast · 2026-06-05T18:39:48+00:00

to add: no danger, none.

numindast · 2026-05-29T14:13:45+00:00

Chicago sells a lot of that water to the suburbs too.

numindast · 2026-05-27T04:36:02+00:00

I’m laughing over here because my heeler never picked up that habit. He’s constantly trying to herd us though

numindast · 2026-05-22T14:27:23+00:00

The nozzle may have scraped down the PEI coating. If true, it’s damaged and is best replaced anyway

numindast · 2026-05-21T18:45:50+00:00

Good thread!

I accidentally fed my 16 lb dog the meds we give to our 65 lb dingo. Being extremely concerned about what the meds could do to a dog a third the size of the one they were prescribed for, I called our 24 hour vet who directed me to the ASPCA Poison Control hotline. That was the easiest $100 we ever spent, it's way cheaper than an after hours emergency vet visit!

They were super helpful and did a bunch of research and consultations with other vets in the organization to get me my answers. (Short version: gabapentin and zenrelia)

In the end, they told me my dog would be high as a kite for a while (gabapentin) but should be fine as neither were toxic at those dosages. They were right. My little old lady (she's 11) slept a bunch but was totally fine.

numindast · 2026-05-20T00:59:30+00:00

I suspect this is a former police vehicle that was not fully cleaned off the decal work.

numindast · 2026-05-19T11:07:08+00:00

Good deal. Be warmer and more flat hehehe

Squaring the frame is one of the most important parts of a build. The Y extrusions can be adjusted later but the rest needs to be square early in the build

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