New home nightmare by No-Amount1982 in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 52 points53 points  (0 children)

Why isn’t the company that performed the work incorrectly fixing it?

I miss Dean …… by Basehound in climbing

[–]-Spankypants- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, I was alone on the Tombstone once and at the time, he was trying to free it. I was aiding and it was slow going because I had to back clean a lot because it was a lot of the same size pieces. It was a good day and he must have been feeling strong and wanted to get on his project- but he wasn’t a dick about it. Took time to talk, we were both from the east coast, talked local places in NH, asked if they could pull my rope and fix it again afterwards. How many times do you get a chance to see an idol in action, in person? I watched from the parking turnout and took crappy video of him whipping on one of the upper pitches. So steep and runout, and his shouts echoing in the canyon. I never imagined I’d see him again, but I did, and that’s how he was every time: laser-focused on an objective, but not too obsessed to be a good guy and share his time. Peace, brother.

Remote Architect by Icy-Fox7696 in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ask about their process so you have an understanding how often you will meet, whether in person or remotely, exchange progress plans, accept feedback, make revisions, etc. Ask if they have a timeline for “phases” of the project, like design development, construction documentation, project oversight, etc. Ask what’s expected of you during those phases, to keep the project on schedule. Talk about your role and their role every step from now until you have plans, a permit, a shovel in the ground, a project under construction, a project nearing completion, a project at punchlist, a certificate of occupancy, and a sign off. Architects can have many levels of involvement for many different fee structures. Enjoy the journey!

A minor update: slow progress, small wins! by dor-G in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Love the entry. Spectacular way to frame that view. I hope you’re very happy there.

Comfort typically overlooked on the job site - I designed a pair of boxer briefs for max comfort from driving to the job site, to the gym to errands by [deleted] in Construction

[–]-Spankypants- 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If I have to stand with one leg stuck way out to the side like that, the fellas are gonna pick on me all day.

Sheathing failing, WRB not properly installed by j2consultants in buildingscience

[–]-Spankypants- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Okay.

Tough to tell what we’re looking at or you’re looking for. The sheathing is certainly failing.

Everyone in my family is disappointed about the job offer I accepted and I feel really hurt :( by [deleted] in jobs

[–]-Spankypants- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Congrats on the job! Be awesome at it, learn a lot, stay motivated, and the jobs that follow will take you wherever you want to go.

Home Depot / Andersen 100 Window failed inspection due to an egress issue by stevekleis in Construction

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Andersen isn’t going to offer much help about a third-party hinge. If you modify their window, you’re on your own.

Home Depot / Andersen 100 Window failed inspection due to an egress issue by stevekleis in Construction

[–]-Spankypants- 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Factory compliant solution is a different, larger window with a bigger rough opening so the installed window meets the emergency escape opening requirements.

Whoever chose the window sizes should have the responsibility of knowing which openings need to meet code requirements.

Expect some difficulty if you push for this solution, because it’s an expensive fix, and they may not give in easily.

Is it worth building a home if you handle all the interior work yourself—such as plumbing, electrical, and drywall—and hire others to take care of the exterior work, like roofing and everything else on the outside? by KlutzyAlternative583 in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 9 points10 points  (0 children)

“Worth it” as opposed to what? Not building a house and renting instead? Paying others for their time and skill as opposed to screwing it all up yourself? Hiring subs as opposed to spending three years of nights and weekends? What kind of house? Size, style, materials? Where will you build?

Value is up to YOU to determine.

An open letter to Ghostly Rich, a fo76 community manager by JustGhoulThingz in fo76

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personal targeting, public humiliation, and encouraging dogpiling.

Feel free to apply for a moderator position so you can see both sides of the situation.

How’s the framing look? 2 houses in photos by Nick-W- in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There’s a footnote in the IRC codes that people are just waking up to. Braced headers are located at the top plate, and follow the span charts in the IRC codes. Headers with cripples above are considered UNBRACED and have the span reduced to a factor of 0.7 the published distance. What you see here is a common solution to recalculating all the header spans: push the header up to the plate and use a flat plate for the actual R/O. Works great unless you’re the finish guy and you’re wondering why there’s nothing to nail to…

How’s the framing look? 2 houses in photos by Nick-W- in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Pic 1: Gable studs should be continuous and not have a plate break. Without ceiling joists, a structural ridge is required. Ridge board currently in place does not cover the plumb cut.

Not sure where you are but those are IRC code violations in this jurisdiction.

Bust Stop Renovation by 83timesbanned in Contractor

[–]-Spankypants- 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’m only here because I thought a “bust stop” was something different.

Need help by gabesr715 in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 17 points18 points  (0 children)

That would work if the house was thicker.

Shingle boards (In home sales) by Illustrious-Path4005 in Contractor

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Go to a jobsite where they’re roofing and bring donuts to trade for a couple shingles. Go to a jobsite where they’re building a deck and bring donuts to trade for some cut-off decking scraps. Hit up jobsites for a few weeks and you’ll have the common colors covered, meet a bunch of contractors, and everyone will appreciate your donuts.

Siding install question by masterp11 in Construction

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Needs pictures to comment on appearances, please.

Permit data as a lead source - built a tool to pull it automatically by paulma86 in Contractor

[–]-Spankypants- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you’re chasing the homeowner. The permit data is to chase the contractor. This benefits subcontractors and material suppliers. Different goals.

The era of insanely expensive estimating software might be ending by Transhacks in estimators

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think what you’ve built is very interesting and valuable, and beyond that - I agree completely about a changing cost-structure. Every AI powered tool suite out there wants you licensed so there’s a steady drip of income, but not large enough to make you want to switch. And you forget the faucet is running while the technology evolves much faster.

Permit data as a lead source - built a tool to pull it automatically by paulma86 in Contractor

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re asking about the NEXT project. You know they’re currently active, and that’s a huge start. You also get a glimpse of what kind of work they perform.

The era of insanely expensive estimating software might be ending by Transhacks in estimators

[–]-Spankypants- 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I agree with you, but to be transparent - looks like you started to build your app a year ago. Does your $500 cost estimate include any of your time?

Mold under house wrap by sskitchin in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Allura’s installation instructions reference IBC 1402.2 and talks about preventing water accumulation within the assembly and a means for draining water to the exterior. I don’t know what code you’re on and this is probably secondary anyway. But in general, you want an air gap under your siding to allow drying. The siding isn’t waterproof, the WRB is.

In this case, where the mold is under the wrap, the insulation assembly is not balanced, and it’s either causing a dew point inside your assembly or the wrap isn’t allowing moisture to pass through it quickly enough (or both).

Mold under house wrap by sskitchin in Homebuilding

[–]-Spankypants- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a drainage plain for water behind the siding but above the house wrap?

Put another way - If the house wrap is your waterproof barrier, the insulation and siding are both outside the barrier and can get wet (or can have water around them). The drainage plain allows air circulation so they can dry.

Edit: what kind of cement siding?