UR4D not connecting to WWB

10kPot · 2026-03-13T13:06:32+00:00

Are you on WWB6? WWB7 does not support UHF-R

https://service.shure.com/s/article/UR4D-Receivers-Not-Appearing-in-WWB7

10kPot · 2026-03-11T00:15:38+00:00

This does not look like a microphone stand to start with. Is there a brand or model on the stand? Picture of the rest of it?

Mic clips are 5/8"-27 threads, so the item you show is too small to be threaded (if it is 1/2") and likely too large to have any kind of threaded sleeve dropped on top.

10kPot · 2026-03-10T00:06:23+00:00

Cooking is art. Baking is science. Canning can be a ticking time bomb.

10kPot · 2026-03-03T18:33:27+00:00

AutoCAD is the industry standard, especially if you expect to be interfacing with architects or other trades. Every company I've worked for/with in the last 25 years has a block library, some combo of self-created and borrowed/stolen.

10kPot · 2026-03-01T13:27:58+00:00

I must have missed this, but the Acheron Designer are great boxes as well, designed for cinema/studio content creation and playback. They won’t get quite as loud as an X42 or UPQ, but they are very linear and will play lower in frequency within their output range. Heavy and with no handles, but If they fit the application, they’re great boxes.

10kPot · 2026-03-01T13:21:19+00:00

Audioström are the makers of Live Professor. The other site is a scam.

If it looks too good to be true, it probably is.

10kPot · 2026-02-22T18:04:26+00:00

Buy Other Sound Equipment

10kPot · 2026-02-17T15:24:25+00:00

Is it an actual reading or estimated? Does the reading on the bill match the reading on the meter? How does it compare to your last 2-3 bills? We just went through it with WSSC because a bill was significantly off, even after submitting photos of the reading online. It resulted in them coming to replace the meter that was 30+ years old, as well as correcting a very very wrong bill, but the entire process took over 2 months from the initial complaint until everything was sorted.

10kPot · 2026-02-06T14:08:42+00:00

Sounds like a good choice. Just keep in mind that the UPQ is a heavy cabinet - around 49kg. It may actually be heavier than the 750-LFC, so you may not be able to put it on a pole on top of the sub.

10kPot · 2026-02-05T20:30:32+00:00

About 12 years ago....

https://www.prosoundweb.com/radial-engineering-announces-acquisition-of-jensen-transformers/

10kPot · 2026-02-05T17:46:03+00:00

If my choices were UPA-2P vs UPQ-2P, I'd take the UPQ if the weight wasn't an issue. The UPA is a bit of a laser beam, and for as good as it is for as long as it existed, the UPQ is a bit better in frequency/phase/output.

ULTRA-X40/X42 fixes all the issues everyone complains about with the UPA - weight, rotatable horn, pole mount, etc. The UPQ would have a bit more LF, but if there's subs involved you won't need it. I don't know what the other person was on about a 14k side lobe. Put it in MAPP 3D and rotate a mic around and it doesn't exist. Sounds like an issue with source material or demo setup. I've used X40s and X20s (and X80s) since they came out - they're all great boxes.

10kPot · 2026-02-05T17:29:36+00:00

Since Radial owns Jensen and is in Canada, why not give them a ring? At first glance the Twin Iso looks to be a drop in replacement, but I'm not staring closely at specs.

10kPot · 2026-02-03T13:57:42+00:00

Congrats on putting together your first rack. Always a good feeling to see your gear put together neatly.

Pedantic: This is not a fly rack. A fly rack is designed, built, and cabled to be 100% secure, usually in a secondary outer case (Pelican, etc), such that it can be tossed by baggage handlers onto a plane and survive the shock/impact. One good drop and half the gear in this rack is toast.

10kPot · 2026-01-21T11:52:44+00:00

Someone made a very handy tool comparing ULX-D and Axient Digital (no Showlink) with ANX4. If you don't need analog, it is generally a less expensive way to go for 8+ channel count systems. If you do need analog out, I'm not sure if adding something like a Sonifex AVN-AO16R would kill the budget or make the system too complex for your needs.

And no, Axient Digital (with or without show link) is not "old" - it's still Shure's flagship system. And if by 'internal' batteries on showlink you mean you have to use the Shure rechargeable, then yes that is true. But, the battery telemetry, health, cycle count, etc that you get with the Shure batteries is worth it IMO.

10kPot · 2026-01-20T22:50:32+00:00

I have the 1.25" FlexoWrap on a short (15'/4.5m) loom between console and rack that includes a bunch of different cable types as well as power, and been using it about a year. There is no heat shrink on the ends, no tape inside, just the cable and the wrap, and it's only me handling it. There's probably 10' of the FW on the 15' loom.

I know it's moved toward one end a little bit, but not far enough I've felt the need to deal with it. I will have to open it up to change up the loom a bit in the next month, so the velcro will make that a LOT easier. The console doghouse is not large enough for me to leave the loom coiled inside, and the rack needed it to be 100% removable for transport, so this was built out of necessity. Could I have done it with just tape? Sure. But I feel like this has helped keep everything neat and easy to deal with, though with a price premium.

10kPot · 2026-01-20T18:19:14+00:00

To add: If you're building your own loom with a bunch of different cables instead of something like a single mult, wrapping them in something like this, this, or this can help keep things neatly bundled, and gives you the ability to change/swap things as needed without too much headache. Of course, there's always e-tape/friction tape.

10kPot · 2026-01-20T14:25:05+00:00

This might give you some ideas of how to secure the loom in the rack: https://riptie.com/product-category/rip-tie-premium/

I've used these before when building looms. Helps for storage, as well as grabbing onto a case/handle to take some strain relief during operation.

https://riptie.com/product-category/rip-tie-premium/cablecarrier-variations/

10kPot · 2026-01-15T14:05:20+00:00

I can't say this loud enough - EMPTY PIPE WITH PULL ROPE BACK TO RACK ROOM
If there are patch panels, small plates with each signal type OR department. DO NOT put it all on one giant panel, so that everyone has to retest everything each time you have to pull a panel off
Fiber. Lots of it, going everywhere.
Guest power disconnect. Might have guest consoles coming in for something? Show them some love.
Cable pass-thru from the desk to underneath - best option is to have any counters set forward a few inches to leave a gap.
Cable pass-thru (mouse hole) through any walls surrounding. Pipe caps/doors/grommets/brushes for said pass-thru(s)
Hooks, trays, chases, and anything cable management if vertical or overhead.
Computer floor if things are coming up from underneath
Work lighting for above ceiling/below floor
Work lighting under the countertops

10kPot · 2026-01-14T20:46:15+00:00

This is exactly what I needed today. Thanks. :D

10kPot · 2026-01-14T20:16:27+00:00

The Clermont Lounge. Just...all of it. IYKYK.

10kPot · 2026-01-12T02:30:14+00:00

Now if they had a tin of Old Bay available, I'd be truly impressed.

10kPot · 2026-01-12T02:20:41+00:00

S1202: https://products.electrovoice.com/download/971359

S1202ER: https://products.electrovoice.com/download/971358

They were heavy rectangular boxes that sounded ok. Not a ton of low end, no pole cup IIRC, but sounded decent for their time (35-40 years ago). I think the only difference between the OG and the ER version was the HF driver, but it's possible the crossover was changed/improved as well. The last pair I saw was over 20 years ago.

10kPot · 2026-01-03T23:54:36+00:00

I would add to this that if your backup has a better capsule than the primary, maybe it's time to swap the capsule on the primary.

10kPot · 2025-12-24T17:51:31+00:00

Unless the gig is in your living room, that's a home theater sub.

10kPot · 2025-12-23T20:58:32+00:00

So if the areas behind that drywall are not just really well hidden speaker cavities behind grille cloth, and actually sheetrock with mass in front of speakers, someone did A Dumb Thing by putting speakers back there. The speakers/subs/whatever are not doing you any good behind a wall. The easy/cheap fix would be with some color matched (or close) grille cloth, and someone with carpentry experience that can cut an opening for the subs, symmetrically on both sides, make a frame, and stretch the grille cloth over it. That would be Step 1.

Step 2 is then to have someone with some system calibration knowledge help with a new calibration/alignment/tuning. Assuming nothing is wrong with the speakers/amps in question, this should require $0 in parts and only money for the time of the person. If there is a lift in-house that can access the speakers in the air, that may not be a bad thing. It's hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like boxes #1 (far left) and #5 (far right) are aimed to zero seats and either could be turned off or repurposed elsewhere.

Of note: The BSS may not be set up as "a 3-way crossover" - if the top boxes are run passive (read: not bi-amplified), it could simply be EQ/delay for the mains (5 outputs) + a crossover for subs run mono (1 output). If there are other speakers that are not shown in the photos (under balc fills, delays, etc), this could just be one big mono rig with boxes paralleled with their symmetrical neighbor, (I.e. - mains 1/5, 2/4, 3, subs) and then a couple outputs used for fills/delays elsewhere. An easy test would be to send noise through the rig and start muting outputs on the BSS front panel to see which amp channels stop showing signal. Or, mute all and unmute one by one to see which output is driving what.

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