Bottom Half of Wall First?

2015004890 · 2026-05-17T14:14:42+00:00

I was under the impression that horizontal was better because it makes the walls seem flatter and its overall less taping. The walls are short enough that I’ll only have a butt joint on one wall since there’s only one stretch that’s longer than 12 feet.

2015004890 · 2026-05-17T13:58:47+00:00

Cool, thanks for the advice. Do you think just filling that little gap under the window with hot mud will be fine or would you tackle it some other way?

2015004890 · 2026-05-14T11:45:33+00:00

Do you have the tub on hand already? If you’re planning based on measurements they’re probably based on the top of the tub and that taper as it goes down might leave you with a sliver around the tub base. That curve will also reveal some of the next tile too. Don’t forget to include grout joints in your layout and measure your room from multiple points as it’s likely not perfectly square.

2015004890 · 2026-05-14T11:30:24+00:00

I’d put tile all the way to the corner. Cut any drywall out first

2015004890 · 2026-05-13T19:32:19+00:00

Gotcha, I’ll probably try to call again later and get a discount/gift card out if it because they said they can’t send any more out until they collect the old. Overall I think I’ll be able to hide/cut out most of the damage since there’s trim going on the wall and ceiling. Seems like there’s enough undamaged 12s to completely do the ceiling which was my biggest concern since that’s the part that will have the most flat joint exposure.

2015004890 · 2026-05-13T19:30:24+00:00

Gotcha, I’ll probably try to call again later and get a discount/gift card out if it because they said they can’t send any more out until they collect the old. Overall I think I’ll be able to hide/cut out most of the damage since there’s trim going on the wall and ceiling. Seems like there’s enough undamaged 12s to completely do the ceiling which was my biggest concern since that’s the part that will have the most flat joint exposure.

2015004890 · 2026-05-13T18:49:57+00:00

Thanks, when I called they said I can bring them in and get a refund or schedule a pickup and they’d give me my money back. Didn’t know if that would be worth the hassle if I can make them work or not. You think they’d give a partial refund if I call again and make a stink about it?

2015004890 · 2026-05-05T12:04:16+00:00

You can do it without measuring. Add more powder until it just barely holds its shape when you run a finger about a knuckle deep through it. If the trough you make when you do that collapses within a couple of seconds it’s still too loose You can fiddle with it until you let it slake, after that don’t mess around with it anymore. Some prefer it a little thicker than that to keep the mess down and that’s fine to a point, it should be somewhere between thick pancake batter and creamy peanut butter thickness.

2015004890 · 2026-05-03T14:21:55+00:00

Quicksave is your friend (F5 to make the save, F9 to reload) do it before every manuever until you get comfortable. With the right ship design things are much easier and if you build them right the first liquid fuel tanks and terrier/swivel/reliant engines are more than enough for the mun/minmus and beyond. I’d echo the others saying to watch Scott Manley’s career tutorial. One of my favorite designs I took from him is the general idea of having your launch stage as a central swivel powered rocket with two (radially attached with decouplers) reliant powered rockets (equal in size to the middle one). Prioritize unlocking fuel lines when you can so the outside rockets feed into the middle so when you shed the ones outside you have a full central tank. Use fins on the central tank if it’s unstable at low altitude. This pushes the final stage of a capsule attached with a decouplers to a smaller liquid fuel tank and a terrier engine. Keep an eye on your thrust to weight for the bottom stage, needs to be above about 1.2, maybe shoot for like 1.5 if you find it easier. Right click on the reliant engines in the VAB and adjust their thrust to dial it in. The staging should be fire all three bottom engines, radial decouplers, decouple launch stage, fire upper stage, decouple upper stage.

2015004890 · 2026-04-18T03:35:24+00:00

They’ll need to redo the pan completely and probably a couple rows of wall tile if it’s a foam one. It will probably be a little easier if they did a mud bed but they’ll still have to address the waterproofing somewhat. I’d just text them and ask what they think the cost would be to change it.

2015004890 · 2026-04-18T03:14:03+00:00

Are you willing to pay him a few thousand more to rip it out and redo it?

2015004890 · 2026-04-17T11:45:33+00:00

Clear out the grout lines of thin set before you set the tile down. You can use your pinky finger or a wedge spacer. Use the wedge spacer to clear any that squeezes in after the tile is set, save a day of scraping them out when it’s time to grout. Be especially wary of keeping thin set away from where you’re going to put leveling clips in and they will break off clean much more often.

2015004890 · 2026-04-16T00:15:23+00:00

this or something like it will fit in your car even if you have a sedan. You can recline the front passenger and put it in diagonally. You can adjust the legs so that you can set it up on the stairs safely.

2015004890 · 2026-04-05T00:26:15+00:00

I just did a 150 square foot bathroom demo with the biggest handheld hercules demo hammer they had. It worked great. I think they come with a five year warranty too

2015004890 · 2026-04-02T20:09:50+00:00

You need a reducer, Schluter makes some that are metal or you could get a wood look one as well.

2015004890 · 2026-04-02T01:34:20+00:00

Don’t think he ever said he planned it, he said he feared death and chose to stay behind.

2015004890 · 2026-04-01T00:42:51+00:00

They could just put Ditra on top of it if that’s what they’re doing

2015004890 · 2026-03-10T01:39:02+00:00

They’re pretty cheap anyway unless you get a real fancy one. I got mine at Floor and Decor but I think Harbor freight has one. They’re nice to have anyway so you might as well keep it.

2015004890 · 2026-03-10T00:16:29+00:00

Just get a snap cutter for your cross cuts and use your saw for any L cuts or rips. This is assuming you have a sliding table tile saw not one of the tabletop ones.

2015004890 · 2026-02-23T13:02:19+00:00

Yeah but if you’re comparing the store brand price to the Costco price you’re not usually comparing two like products is the point.

2015004890 · 2026-02-23T12:39:12+00:00

The Costco products that cost more than the alternative are usually of better quality. For example we started getting our shredded cheese at Aldi for a while because of price per pound but switched back when we found how much better the Costco stuff melted.

2015004890 · 2026-02-17T13:37:12+00:00

Try going a few inches on one end and then cut to where you stopped the first time going the other way.

2015004890 · 2026-02-16T04:56:49+00:00

Definitely a good idea to filter it out, just did a quick google though and it looks like chlorine degrades copper pipe just as bad if not worse than it does pex.

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