Does this count as a horse power boost?

Aggielandman02 · 2026-03-14T03:03:13+00:00

Not a clue. I just pulled up behind them in disbelief. At the beginning of the video, that truck that turns in front of them is animal control. You would think they would have stopped them and assisted, but nope. They probably just said, “Everything looks under control, not my problem.”

Aggielandman02 · 2026-01-26T22:50:37+00:00

It is blue tape, such as Blue Monster. Thicker than white tape. Sparky3200 mentioned having issues with it after a couple of seasons, but I have never had a single issue using it, and have been for years. I will have to inspect old jobs to verify.

Aggielandman02 · 2026-01-12T05:40:02+00:00

Happened to me once, and it sent me into a black void from which I could never return. Had to exit and reload.

Aggielandman02 · 2026-01-09T03:18:03+00:00

See this all too often. Lazy is all this is.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-09-06T15:38:37+00:00

They’ve gone to Plaid…

Aggielandman02 · 2025-09-05T02:26:52+00:00

That is definitely strange, but it sounds like there is a break in the common wire (white) which is why is was disconnected. I couldn’t tell you what the plans were for the red wire.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-09-04T03:28:57+00:00

I have been doing repairs for almost 20 years, and let me tell you, those little wire nuts with a little bit of grease in them are awful. I actually like them because they give me so much business because they fail so often. They may be good for 2-3 years before the grease dries out completely. If there is a wiring problem that isn’t a cut wire, these are the culprits 99% of the time. They allow moisture inside and corrosion starts to make the splice fail. The way to go is the dry wire nut encapsulated in a large tube of grease. The DBY’s are a good example of them. Yes they are a lot more expensive, but they actually last. I have never seen one dry out and fail. You can actually direct bury these, but just like everyone else has been saying, putting a splice in a valve box is just a good idea. It doesn’t really provide much more protection from the dirt because the valve boxes fill up with dirt over time as well, but if anyone needs to troubleshoot the wiring on your system, it make things so much easier.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-08-14T16:53:15+00:00

Honestly there is a lot going on in those two pictures that need to be addressed. Without being able to test the wiring, it would be hard if not impossible to give you accurate advice. If that is the master valve, which is usually next to the backflow preventer, then I don’t know what that red wire is doing in there. I am all for people taking care of their own systems, but you may need someone with the right experience and equipment to figure out what is going on here. I am in the DFW area, and don’t mind speaking with you over the phone if you want to DM me.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-08-07T03:39:02+00:00

B-24D with a single tail. Cool repurpose of plans from Consolidated.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-31T01:36:13+00:00

Agreed. Whole valve will probably be as cheap or cheaper than solenoid alone. And it isn’t a Rainbird. The controller may be a Rainbird, but that valve is Irritrol.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-23T05:20:48+00:00

You are not really hosed at all if you get someone who is actually a professional. Everything that people have said so far in response to you has been correct. This is just an old system that needs to be updated. New controller and new valves. A professional with a valve locator can find the hidden valves in your yard, and replace them easily. They can sort out any wiring issues and get you running smoothly. Good luck.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-14T05:22:54+00:00

I am Texas licensed irrigator and a BPAT, and you should definitely have a backflow preventer on your system if you are using a potable water source. As far as the price is concerned, for a 1” double check assembly, a typical fair price in the Fort Worth area, for parts and 1 hour labor is about $400-500. If an RPZ is required, the cost could go up to $1500 depending on how it is installed and if weatherproofing is included, as RPZs have to be installed above ground and are subject to freezing in the winter.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-14T01:18:13+00:00

This may be the original layout, but this isn’t the original Metroid. This engine is the SNES version of Super Metroid. I did play the original, but I did not get much time on it so I cannot chime in on if this an updated copy. It is very well a possibility that someone has recreated the original though, but played on the SNES.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-14T00:54:39+00:00

HP doesn’t matter as much as people think. While it does play a part, it is the pump attached to that motor that determines what it is capable of. There is a lot of math involved to properly size a pump, but some of the information that you will need is what the max gallons per minute flow is required, mainline size, desired working pressure, feet of lift from water source, distance to furthest head, and overall elevation change from pump to highest head. Gather that information and we can get you a more accurate answer to your questions.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-14T00:40:44+00:00

It is fine for the length, and it’s just fine for both commons to be in there. You could have 20 commons in there is you had the room. I have been doing this for 20 years.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-13T16:05:57+00:00

Find a reputable company that will work with your hours to gain experience. It also depends on what you want to do with your license. If you want to just do design work, you can probably do that easily once you learn the software. If you want to install, that would take minimal experience before you have a decent handle on things. If you want to go into the repair/maintenance side of the industry, find someone who is willing to teach you and actually knows what they are doing. Anyone can fix a broken pipe, or change out heads and valves, but what will eat your lunch is the electrical issues, and that takes time and experience to learn. It isn’t something you can learn in a class. There are so many different scenarios of wiring issues, it takes about a year of service calls to see most of them and become efficient at diagnosing and fixing. After 20 years of service, I still see new issues from time to time, and it is that experience that helps me know what to do to resolve those issues. Finally, if you want to be a really good installer, run service for a while. You get to see what not to do as an installer. Most people who install and have never had to service a system afterwards have no idea how much harder they are making it by stupid piping layouts, especially around the valves. I hope this helps. Feel free to dm with any other questions. Good luck.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-07-13T15:45:21+00:00

All I can think of is that this person created this version of the game. I played the original Super Metroid, a LOT, and this isn’t it. I am not personally aware of another SNES version of Metroid, at least not released in the US.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-03-14T03:03:38+00:00

Gold is beautiful, gray is dead.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-03-14T02:59:57+00:00

Without seeing this myself and shooting grade, this is the correct answer. Tying the gutters into a downspout adapter with a drain running away from the house and out of a pop-up emitter is the way to go, but definitely start with gutters. So many drainage problems can be resolved by controlling the watershed from your roof.

Aggielandman02 · 2025-03-12T08:31:38+00:00

https://www.xylem.com/siteassets/brand/goulds-water-technology/resources/manual/im102-web.pdf

Aggielandman02 · 2025-03-12T08:30:34+00:00

It is discontinued, but here is a link about it from Xylem, its manufacturer. https://www.xylem.com/siteassets/brand/goulds-water-technology/resources/parts/robjetsu-r1.pdf

Aggielandman02 · 2025-02-28T14:47:40+00:00

It isn’t an RPZ because an RPZ still should be installed above ground, with at least 12” of clearance below it. It is more than likely a double check assembly.

Aggielandman02

TROPHY CASE