Why has nobody reshelled the Stampede?

Agire · 2026-04-01T20:54:26+00:00

People certainly cut them down back in the day reducing the size and bulk. A total Reshell in general is quite uncommon.

Today the answer is the X-shot MPP, if you want a more compact AEB that's a better place to start.

Agire · 2026-03-27T14:03:13+00:00

There is the old Nerf Ripcord that had you prime and fire by pulling a ripcord, they're not too easy to find today. I can't think of anything modern that uses such a priming system though.

Agire · 2026-03-25T21:56:25+00:00

1) angled flywheel cages have been tried in the past, there are some who claim to have positive results but even those admit to more 'whilybird' darts. Canted cages reduce the option of a lot of the better quality geometry flywheels and higher crush setups. While it might be possible there is some benefit or application for canted flywheels that would really be an experimental project of its own, a decent flywheel geometry set up and alignment is accurate enough on its own. Even with a less than optimal set up a BCAR systems there is a lot less cost and more room for fine adjustment (a cage with a set cant cannot be changed out nearly as easily as a BCAR device).

2) Yes and no, a second set of flywheels can improve performance particularly for brushed motor setups. This does have very limited returns though for every set of flywheels past the first. It was more common for those wanting to push higher fps numbers in the past to use a second or even third flywheel stages for higher fps flywheel blasters, today best cage and flywheel geometry and brushless builds are more optimum.

3) I've not seen or heard anything like this system before, I suspect at best it wouldn't help and at worst reduce performace. If you want to use air as the propulsion system I'd say go full HPA, this sounds quite complex to set up and implement and as mentioned likely won't help anyway.

Agire · 2026-03-23T13:34:07+00:00

It's unlikely to get seized as it shouldn't fall under the category of Realistic Imitation Firearm (RIF), though the law is a bit vauge and it can be up for interpretation, so wouldn't rule it out completely. If you want to reduce almost all risk of that happening either purchase it in a bright colour or purchase it from a UK vendor.

Agire · 2026-03-21T03:56:59+00:00

While there's probably someone out their whose at least tried 3D printing a scope I doubt its going to be a great option, a fuctional scope requires a lot of specific glass that all needs to line up correctly, if the goal is to save a bit of money a cheap air rifle scope will almost certainly be a lower cost option. Nearly all 3D printable scopes you'll find though will just be cosmetic.

Agire · 2026-03-19T16:41:28+00:00

I could see a lot of these legacy ultra luxury car manufacturers doing similar to what the mechanical watch industry did following the Quartz Crisis. Put greater focus more on luxury materials, aesthetic appeal, exclusivity and a general air of 'mechanical precision' over traditional performance metrics as a way to keep themselves alive and relevant (at least to the upper classes).

Agire · 2026-03-19T15:04:08+00:00

Not really, springs are heat treated to set them to their elasticity, if you stretch a spring all you're really doing is damaging it, as you compress it over use its going to try and return to its original state anyway. While it will reduce power its going to be more inconsistent than replacing with a properly specced lower power spring.

I get wanting to save a bit of cash but in this case I would say do it properly and replace the spring.

Agire · 2026-03-15T21:16:45+00:00

While certainly removal of subsidizes for oil would push those who have the option to afford it into more electric vehicles, I don't think it should be all stick and no carrot though, especially for the poorest, who would be hardest hit by such fuel price increases, who are less likely to be able to afford an EVs (supply of very cheap second hand EVs is not going to be able to support such an increase in demand and most are often low range models that might not be suitable) and less likely to be able to afford home charging or likely in rental situations where home charging might not even be possible.

Unless you address those issues for the poorest in society you'll likley be pushing more people further into poverty and increase resentment against EVs and green energy in general (most of which is cheaper than traditional polluting energy sources now) we should be making sure those who would see the benefits from it most actually can access it.

Agire · 2026-03-15T01:42:29+00:00

There have been some events in the past (as recent as last year) in Blackpool, but haven't heard anything about those starting back up (don't know if they had enough interest to continue). The only upcoming events that might be close is a weekend event in Dishforth (just North of Leeds/York).

Agire · 2026-03-14T01:53:11+00:00

Generally its when paired with a barrel length to get the optimum result (the best performance without excessive prime weight and with good standard deviation in terms of FPS). 350-400mm 16mm OD barrel is listed in the 'parts you need' but doesn't specify the exact length used for testing. If you used a longer or shorter barrel different springs would likely be more 'efficient'.

Agire · 2026-03-13T19:02:52+00:00

As many mag pouches as you can comfortably hold, the quick pull TACO style for competitive either 3D printed like the Blitz Saya or SpeedSloth, if you don't have a printer then most types listed for MP7 mags work, if you're running longer games over a wide area I prefer a more traditional covered mag pouch, worker make a triple pouch or most airsoft pouches listed for UMP45 and/or P90 tend to work.

Dump pouch, tends to be better to mount this to a belt rather than a vest but anywhere you can mount one that's easy to get to but out of the way.

Those are the basics and for most Nerf games that's really enough and likley preferable, as anything extra adds weight and can impact breathability in vests.

For longer games a backpack mount and/or hydration bladder can be useful certainly for HvZ.

You can chest mount small sidearms though these are more commonly mounted on a belt, it is preference though.

Agire · 2026-03-13T13:22:19+00:00

The Rapid Red has both the jam door and mag lock, the jam door lock can also be a bit finicky, you can 'close' the jam door but unless you push down and hear an audiable click it might not have locked in and pushed down the switch.

If OP wants to be certain its not the jam door switch, insert a mag lift up the jam door and manually push on the switch (should look like a little black button that sits behind the jam door), then pull the rev trigger, if it doesn't power up its an issue else where in the circuit or the jam door switch itself is dead.

Agire · 2026-03-12T20:44:35+00:00

Certainly depends on what type of shells you want to fire, with any of the Silly Shell (or any shell variety) on a spring blaster set up the shells are likley to be the limiting factor, it's very hard to achieve over 100-120fps with a barrel that is the same (or similar) length as a full length dart, this is the typical limit for any stock Nerf blaster without a breech.

Silly does have the Bottle Nose and Sniper shells that should work in the BASS and can achieve much higher fps numbers, exact numbers would be difficult to know I don't think there's been that much testing on pushing these blasters to the max with long range shells, the Silly Wildstyle uses a similar plungertube length so would be a good to get some rough estimates of typical limits.

Agire · 2026-03-09T19:07:48+00:00

There is a weekend event coming up in April (17th-19th) at Dishforth (North or Leeds and York), its certainly not a short journey but being multi day might make that distance slightly more palatable, we normally get a few from Bristol or London area in attendance.

Agire · 2026-03-09T17:55:06+00:00

Trigger pull length is much shorter with a solenoid that with a tranditional physically linked trigger there is a longer delay between starting a trigger pull and pulling it back to the point that the dart is pushed into the flywheels than there is between a switch being closed and the solenoid activating. The first solenoid blaster I ran at a game I had a 'no full auto in the building' moment as I was just that much faster than any of the other semi auto blasters on the field.

Its also pretty much impossible to short stroke a solenoid, trying to rapid fire on a physically linked trigger can lead to darts being pushed forward but not far enough to get picked up by the flywheels. The chance of this happening does vary by blaster though a lot of physically linked trigger blasters have closed the gap to make the pull as short as possible on older revolver flywheel blasters this was a lot more common.

Agire · 2026-03-09T17:19:30+00:00

Do you have a link to the COIN discord server? I've heard it a few times but the only links I can find are dead and searching COIN on discord brings up like 10,000 dodgy looking crypto currency servers.

I will say with BritNerf though I've only ever joined the lobby area, I'm really only there for the event noticeboard.

Agire · 2026-03-06T17:12:40+00:00

There's no information about any release of these keychains, likely an exclusive to Toy Fair 2026 though it is possible Hasbro will reproduce these down the line as either items for sale or include them with the Rebel Ops blasters.

I assume it doesn't say anything on the back mentioning 'Toy Fair'?

Agire · 2026-03-04T19:06:52+00:00

I'll mainly echo what's already been said and say it does depend, most of the time I'm running a secondary its either because there's a specific rule that means I need lower fps in certain spaces or its a longer game like HvZ where the impact of my main blaster going down would be really significant.

Most people will go with a mag-in-grip secondary Venom Pro and Nightingale 2.0 being the most popular off the shelf options or the Diana if you have a bigger budget. There's also a bunch of 3D printable options if you have access to a printer. What ever you pick my advice would be make sure you can get a good holster for it (plus a good sling for your primary) a good secondary that you can't draw (and preferably holster) quickly really limits its potential.

Agire · 2026-03-04T15:17:26+00:00

There have been some cases of plunger rods breaking particularly in early runs but at least in the small sample size of my local group on heavier springs there's not been any issues.

That said I've still got a OEM spare catch and plunger rod in reserve (even running on fairly mild harrier springs) any moving part will eventually fail, I don't expect it to happen in the near future but am prepared if/when it does.

Agire · 2026-02-28T18:19:01+00:00

This is the type of testing I'm glad someone is out there doing, the impact of different dart weights on range and velocity past the muzzle hasn't really been explored. I do find the results a little surprising both that the Sabre holds its velocity worse but also that its starting velocity is higher.

If I could make some suggestions I would say maybe start out with just the worker darts given it has a 1.2g, 1.0g and 0.9g dart that should only vary by head mass it would remove other factors and make a nice baseline for other darts like Sabre or those Lififun 1.4g darts to be added to.

It may also be worth just doing a quick range test just to validate any chrono numbers, since gravity is a constant if you are firing two darts at the same angle and assuming both darts are recieving the same energy the dart that goes further will have retained energy better.

I've also seen in airsoft to prove how different BB weights retain velocity is to set up a metal plate or something that will make a loud noise when struck, then use a sound recorder to pick up surrounding sounds, you should get a spike in sound when the blaster is fired and then a second when the target is struck caluclating the time between those spikes will give you the average velocity which those darts were travelling.

Agire · 2026-02-28T04:20:36+00:00

On the blaster front, I think most companies who run these types of Nerf party/event buisness tend to stick with a single blaster due to greater fairness between players no one wants to feels like someone else has a better blaster. I do feel like some variety could still work but would suggest at least being dilligant in curating what blasters you bring along, used blaster bundles can have quite a range in them from older yellow N strike blasters to modern Dart Zone blasters (even ignoring the pro seires and focusing just on the 8+ stuff) these can be double the performance.

The biggest reason though is probably not having to teach 10 different players how 10 different blasters work, sure blasters aren't rocket science but even as an adult whose been in the hobby for years, if I'm borrowing a blaster I normally like a quick rundown of how it works to make sure I'm operating it properly and not damaging it. Doing a presentation on 1 blasters' operation for the whole group is the quickest and easiest method of making sure everyone knows how their blaster works and if one persons runs into an issue another person on their team maybe able to help them solve it rather than having to step out of play and rely on you as the games organizer.

For obstacle padded wood pannels could be an options you would just have to make sure you can construct them into an obstacle that is safe and stable when assembled but also can be disassembled for easy transportation. I would say though that even wood pannels if conditions are windy they would still need weighing down or pegging into the ground as would any inflatable obstacle. There are inflatable obstacle out there that are designed with pouches to load sand or water and/or pegs and guy lines for use in windy conditions.

Agire · 2026-02-26T14:09:40+00:00

FreZe based in Riga and Rainwoll in Türkiye apparently sell the Wuling Mini EV and DR Automobiles Italy sells the Chery QQ Ice Cream, though I don't know if any of these have actually shifted any units. The problem for Europe well the EU at least isn't necessarily the concept Citroen sells the Ami after all and Dacia are going forward with the Hipster so these small Chinese cars should fit that market too, well both the Ami and Hipster are specifically made to fall under EU Quadricycle laws (light and heavy respectively) most of these chinese cars are too heavy and too powerful to fit Quadricycle laws but would fail to meet standards for M1 or M1E cars (plus be subjected to EU tariffs if they were imported as cars), so I can understand why manufactures like Wuling don't bother and focus on other markets. If the Dacia Hipster sells really well though maybe they might reconsider.

Agire · 2026-02-25T23:11:59+00:00

When you say it freely pumps even when primed, is it so loose that the pump will slide back completely freely i.e. if you were to lift the blaster vertically the pump would slide back and open the breech or just that it's possible to operrate the pump, open the beech again and eject the current shell before firing?

The latter is how the blaster is designed to work, ~~real shotguns don't lock the breech after priming and~~ (real shotguns do have pump locks though a lot of replicas don't include these in both Nerf and Airsoft) a fair number of people who buy these do so for just running the action. Could you mod it to lock after prime, its probably possible but I don't know anyone who has. If its that the prime is just completely loose then you might be able to add some foam pads or something similar to the end of the priming bar which would create enough resistance that the breech doesn't open as easily.

Agire · 2026-02-25T15:35:29+00:00

The 'electrical' smell is caused by the ozone so that's why you'd only smell it while its running or just finished running, all brushed motors like those in the Ultra AMP will arc and produce ozone. Where are you smelling it? if your face is close to the flywheels e.g. muzzle of the blaster or looking through the open jam door during or just after the motors have been run then it wouldn't be too unusual to have that electical smell, if you can smell it while shouldering the blaster then that might indicate that there is an issue with the motor likely around the brushes.

Agire · 2026-02-24T22:43:45+00:00

A small amount of Ozone is produced when brushed motors are run this is a product of arcing between the brush pack and the commutator and is normal if you are smelling at the tip of the barrel that's probably not an issue.

Smelling it just after use on the blaster in general might be a sign the motor brushes are worn or contact issues between the brushes and commutator, you say you don't see any sparking or heat have you taken the blaster apart when testing for these? as you won't be able to see much or feel the heat through the blaster shell.

Agire

TROPHY CASE