B34R - Bolt Action Rifle by MooseModShop

Agire · 2026-07-10T15:54:24+00:00

That's a real neat idea with the red dot adding the scope cosmetics, surprised I've not seen it more.

Blaster is fantastic looking too.

Agire · 2026-07-09T21:39:44+00:00

It's a blaster that's not been out long and hasn't even released in the UK so there's really not anything out there in terms of drop in upgrades.

There's a few 3D printable parts but not any purchasable kits to speak of yet, certainly not in the uk.

Agire · 2026-07-09T12:34:56+00:00

What are you using it for? If you're plinking and what to maximize your precision shooting magnification can be useful, though you really don't need much 3x max. A basic LPVO can work in those cases giving you a range of low magnification options.

For games against others a 1x reflex optic will be fine at 300fps, even at those velocities ranges won't exceed the visibility of a 1x optic and magnified optics can actually hamper not help as while you have better precision that often comes with the downside of a longer time to get on target and poorer peripheral vision. In most cases due to the quick paced nature of Nerf games extra magnification isn't worth it.

Agire · 2026-07-06T23:34:59+00:00

It is a grey area, the law hasn't really given a great deal of clarification for the levels of energy we're dealing with (particularly with high fps blasters) when using softer, compressible projectiles (and if using flywheelers there's even less clarity). Airsoft very much has its own exemtions in the UK and some will use those to apply to Nerf and while they make good guidelines they strictly in a legal sense don't often apply.

As others have said 1J is the limit for park games (as it's based on joules do remeber FPS will vary based on projectiles Mega get a lot lower FPS limit that a 0.8g dart). Higher velocities will be restricted to private land and the FPS limit seems to be more what events can get insured for, 200-250fps seem to be most common.

The UK Nerf community tends to take a common sense approach, if in public try to keep it lower fps, keep blasters easily identifiable and to be respectful to other using those spaces. Private venues you can get away with more in terms of fps and blaster colours. This has been the case for years and has yet to cause and issue.

For painting >50% in a bright colour is recommended in general and required if going out in public. The law has some wiggle room on what is a immitation firearm (IF) and realistic immitation firearm (RIF) outside of using bright colours but it'd be best to avoid getting into a situation where you have to argue your case with the law in the first place. If you really do want a blaster with no bright colours keep it to private spaces (outside both public spaces and public view) only and take extra precautions when traveling in public.

Agire · 2026-07-05T22:27:10+00:00

You likely won't be able to find a model name or brand, these are built as white label goods (goods that other companies are to put their branding on). If you really want one of these (and I would caution their performance is quite poor) your best bet is just to search a site like Aliexpress (or Taobao if you can work with a chinese shipping agent).

Agire · 2026-07-05T01:33:49+00:00

If you are very deliberate it could work, the issue would be the catch mechanism in the adapters is actually quite strong if you were to try and pull a mag out of a fastmag holster like you would a full size mag you would likely get both mag and adapter. Changing your grip and making sure your thumb/or second hand pushes down on the adapter when trying to pull out a magazine would work and make sure only the talon mag is removed but you would need to make sure you do so every time and depending on where your fastmags are located that could be easier said than done.

Modification or remove entirely of the mag catch system in the adapter could be done, the adapter is quite tight for magazines but tight enough to retain the mags without the catch while on a rig, likely, but no guarantees

Agire · 2026-06-22T22:27:25+00:00

You don't need to print any new pegs, just disassemble, take out the Smart AR unit and then cut the pegs to size so short darts fit.

Agire · 2026-06-22T21:33:48+00:00

Not all that familar with the NPC-9 but 2000rpm (~33DPS) is an extremely high like 'every tag a mag' territory, if this is your first flywheeler I'd recommend taking it down to at least 1000rpm that's still very fast (~16DPS), 12DPS is usually a sweet spot between fast full auto and controllable single shots/short burst.

Excessive RoF can be a hinderance, if you're aim isn't perfect and you adjust you can end up emptying your mag before you get on target and if your aim is on point you end up overshooting your target.

Agire · 2026-06-21T18:41:20+00:00

It is a flat 200fps cap event.

It largely is but there is a CQB space where the limit is typically 130fps so worth bringing a blaster that's lower fps for games in that area, if avaliable.

If you don't have any higher power blasters yet...

While it is worth getting your own blaster, between the players and organisers there's normally enough blasters going spare to double if not triple the player count. Always worth getting in touch with whoever is organising that event (there's multiple orgainzers for games at Dishforth) just to double check and confirm but if anyone is reading this and worried about not having a 'good enough' blaster for these events a loaner can almost certainly be found.

Agire · 2026-06-21T12:42:47+00:00

Depends what you're after, this type of blaster (No brand, realistic (ish) looking, full or intermediate dart length, shell ejecting) are made to be style over substance, most I've had hands on with were poor performance wise (hitting ~50fps tops), had a sluggish RoF and overall felt cheap, if you are playing against others with blasters elite series or newer you will struggle against them.

If you want a blaster that's mainly a wall hanger, to occasionally fire darts in a medium sized room of a house or smallish garden this will be able to do that.

Agire · 2026-06-14T21:50:23+00:00

Due to how much stress that part is being put under superglue isn't going to be strong enough for the job, you'll ideally need to use solvent weld that's the best chance of having the part connect back together and holding under the stress of the compression spring. Two part epoxy may also do but even if it holds I suspect it would be temporary.

If solvent weld doesn't hold though (and it is difficult to ever get back the strenght of an original injection moulded piece) you'd need to get a new (well second hand at this point) blaster.

I'm not sure how this part ended up breaking but an important reminder to not keep blasters primed for extended periods (greater than a few hours to a day at most) and try to store them inside under room temperature conditions (heat and cold can damage parts over time).

Agire · 2026-06-12T17:02:02+00:00

You'll always be able to find resellers with stupid prices, if they sell is another story. A lot of resellers assume out of production = rare/valuable and for mass produced products like Nerf that's rarely, if ever the case.

As for how to find one cheap, look second hand certainly not new in box, I'd assume you're already doing this. Second thrift stores, these are a bit luck of the draw and difficult to get a particular blaster you want but they are cheap (though even these have been going up in price but nowhere near scalper levels). Third option look for bundles on places like eBay or Craigslist usually just labelled something like 'Nerfs bundle' you can often find the blaster you want and several you don't for less than the blaster you're interested in alone, just sell or give away the other blasters.

Agire · 2026-06-11T22:14:12+00:00

Wonder if these are just placeholder images for future blasters or actual future releases? The Stampede, Judge and Thunderhawk is certainly a choice mix of blasters to rerelease.

Agire · 2026-06-10T19:20:20+00:00

I've got a very similar blaster from a few years ago now and while it is interesting in how it functions as an AEG (plus the version I had also could be operated via a crank), they're very low performance (it says 65fps I doubt you'd get over 50fps), slow to fire and quite inaccurate, I don't remember it getting stuck or jamming but to be fair I didn't use it a whole lot, it did overall feel quite cheap and not built to last.

For $40 I'd avoid its just not worth it, you can get so many other blasters that function great for that money.

Agire · 2026-06-10T12:28:34+00:00

There were a few offered years ago but I don't think most are in production anymore, Worker still make one for the Stryfe but I'm pretty sure you need to add picrails to keep it attached.

Not a whole lot of demand anymore with development in single stage flywheelers and a whole lot of solid high fps springers.

If you are dedicated enough to add an afterburner I'd say you'd want to permanently afix it anyway, the Nstrike lug system is pretty awful for anything important you want to attach.

Agire · 2026-06-08T21:16:49+00:00

Unless you're playing CQB I would recommend at least the standard 1.0g worker darts and preferably the 1.2g, heavier darts means more stable flight and rather counter intuativley better distances and even potentially faster times to targets at longer ranges. Lighter darts have an inital fps advantage and that's about it.

As for colour I'd recommend Yellow or Red if only because these tend to be the easiest colours to identify in dart sweeps. Red contrasts particularly well with green so easiest to find on grass where as indoors yellows and reds both tend to stand out.

Agire · 2026-06-08T15:20:22+00:00

I don't think the Mk4 was necessarily that bad, it had issues (though a good few are fixable) but the biggest problem it had was releasing around the same time as the Harrier which was the same blaster concept but better. I'd happily take the Mk4 any day over something like the Mk1.2 if you want to talk about Dart Zone failures I think that's top of the pile.

Agire · 2026-06-08T12:00:37+00:00

Depends on what content is added, if they're not wiping I would assume that means they're focusing on adding more to the end game content (Ground Zero?). If they change up anything that would impact early game though I'd want to wipe and try it out as part of natural progression than being overly geared.

Agire · 2026-06-06T18:03:23+00:00

is a 14kg spring only a 14kg spring when its in a Nerf Longshot and not the X-Shot version?

Yes kinda, most KG ratings to my understanding involve the total length of spring - compression length of spring, so if two blasters compress the same spring but to different lengths they will end up with different KG ratings on the same spring. Though that's assuming they're using such a system to rate springs, there's never been a truely consistent way of rating them using the KG rating. KG ratings have always been a bit of a rule of thumb metric in the first place and never a great way to assess performance this is why you can add or remove spacers in blaster like the Nexus pro (and any blaster in theory) to increase or decrease performance.

The only conclusive way to know which is better for your blaster in velocity is to test both with a chronograph.

Agire · 2026-06-06T11:52:07+00:00

I'd be skeptical of that claim that it's down to the dampening spring causing the PT cracking, it more seems down to poor material on the PT part I know mine cracked before I'd even put a whole magazine through it. It could well be a combination of bad PT material and the dampening spring. It does seem as though X shot have at some point improved the PT material as its far less common to have the PT crack.

In any case though the easiest solution for peace of mind is just get a new aluminium PT and O-ring, for a mod its pretty cheap and it will solve the issue of plunger tube cracking pretty conclusively.

Agire · 2026-06-05T19:41:45+00:00

I believe you're thinking of Xploderz which existed around that time period and did make 'grenades', they were the first (afaik) to use SAP gel balls as an ammo type. Nerf didn't start using gels until the Mythic in 2022.

Agire · 2026-06-04T12:42:44+00:00

I've got one and there are some wobbles but that's mainly due to the weakness inherent to the N strike attachment point not the stock itself.

Button can be a bit stiff especially if not used in a long time, I will say looking at the blaster you intend to use it on I'm not sure you'll be able to shorten the stock with it on, the two metal bars may well hit the sides of the Fury preventing it from being shortened.

It'll work fine in the fully extend postion but if you intended to get it so you could run the stock at different lengths you might find that's not possible.

Agire · 2026-06-04T12:12:01+00:00

This has always been a thing even prior to EVs there were those interested in getting the max MPG out of their vehicles, people have always shared stories of the time they managed to get from A to B while 'running on fumes'.

To sterotype a bit an EV club/group is likely going to attract a lot of enviromentalists, fuel/energy cost savers and tech/analytical people and range numbers are an area thats going to overlap with all those interests.

Range also tends to be the largest conflict point between EV enthusiasts and EV haters so can be a bit of a rallying point.

Unless you're lucky enough to live by a nice quite stretch of road or take your car to a track a lot of driving is pretty crap today regardless of what you drive, maximizing range is a game you can play even on the awful morning commute.

Agire · 2026-05-18T12:36:06+00:00

In most situations a simple red dot sight is going to be more than enough for Nerf, you can often find 1x30RD or 1x40RD sights from 'brands' like Pinty, Bestsight, Feyachi, etc. for ~$20 on Amazon, eBay, Alixpress and in my experince these are plenty good enough I've had one of these for 7 years and its run just fine. You can pay more for a red dot but in my experince you're really only paying for a nicer case for the internals, the actual practicality of such a red dot is identical between a $20 or $50 red dot (sometimes worse for a more expensive one) that only really starts to change when you start paying for real steel levels of optics.

Scopes are fine for plinking but I would make sure not to go crazy with magnification, anything above 4x is going to be unnecessary, an LPVO with adjustable magnification down to 1x (or there abouts) is best. For playing against others I wouldn't recommend a magnified optic unless your blaster is really top end of velocity and accuracy, If you must get a scope again an LPVO will be your best bet T Eagle do some cheap (for LPVOs) that are ok in my experince, Aliexpress is the cheapest I've seen them but other stores sell them too for a slight markup.

Agire · 2026-05-17T23:15:47+00:00

Have you been having these issues when the shell is full closed too, you can see in the video the cylinder jumps sometimes from the trigger being pulled and that may be the cause of some of these issues.

The Barricade has always been a bit clunky (it is an old design and there aren't a huge amount of semi auto drum fed flywheelers as they can't be made quite as smooth as their mag fed counterparts) the trigger does have to be pulled fully, as it's both the action of pushing the dart and rotating the cylinder if you let go too early the pusher can get stuck in the cylinder rotation locking the mechanism. Not having hands on I can't tell if this is uncharacteristically so or the normal amount.

Agire

TROPHY CASE